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SIGHTS 

AROUND THE WORLD 



WITH 



THE BASE BALL BOYS 



COMl'iaSlNG 



MOST INTERESTING SKETCHES OF THE FAMOUS SIGHTS OF THE WORLD AS 
THEY WERE SEEN BY THE GAY TRAVELERS ON THE 

"RouNDTHE- World" Tour of American Base Ball Teams. 

' INCLUDING 

THEIR EXPERIENCES AS A JOI,I<Y PARTY OF FUN-I,OVERS AND FUN-MAKERS "AMONG THE 

JOLI,Y FELLOWS OF OTHER NATIONS — PRINCES, NABOBS AND ROYAL ENTERTAINERS ; 

ALSO IN EXCITING CONTESTS ON HISTORIC GROUND AND AMID STRANGE PEOPLES. 




BY 

HARRY CLAY PALMER, 

The Great Authority on Sports, and the Representative of the New York "Herald" Boston 

"Herald" Chicago " Tribune" and "Sporting Life" in the "Round-the- World" 

Tour of the Base Ball Boys. 

km :: 



PROFUSELY AND ELEGANTLY ILLUSTRATED. ^^7^0 X 

EDGEWOOD PUBLISHING COMPANY, 

1892. 



«»/t3^«C^^V5) 



Copyright, 1892, 

BY 

J. FRANK BEALE, JR. 



— s^'^je^isi 



Gv' 






PUBLISHERS' PREFACE. 



#-' 



*" I "HE reader needs no introduction to the popular players of the 
-^ Chicago and All- America Base Ball teams who, under the man- 
agement of Mr, Albert G. Spalding, travelled around the world in 
1889. 

At the time of the famous tour telegraph instruments were ticking 
the whereabouts of the boys and the scores of their grand exhibition 
and match games all over the world, and the reports told in five figures 
the numbers of the crowds that thronged to see the exponents of our 
national grame. 

Successful as was the tour in the estimation of lovers of Base Balf, 
there was a phase of the trip which, had it been given the prominence 
to which it was entitled, would have been vastly more interesting to^ 
the thousands of readers than the details of the eames. 

The boys we sent around the world to show our European, Aus- 
tralian and Asiatic cousins how we pass our leisure hours and 
strengthen our brawn were, perhaps, more appreciative of fun and; 
more capable of fun-making than any group that ever left our shores,. 
They improved every opportunity for gratifying their love of the hu- 
morous, and they left behind them a glittering trail of joviality, festivity 
and sport that has made their names a synonym for all that is merry 
in the places they visited. 

Our author, on account of his intimate knowledge of Base Ball, his 

accuracy as a reporter, and his ability as a writer, was chosen to accom- 

(3) 



4 PUBLISHERS' PREFACE. 

pany the boys on their tour as the representative of four of t<he leading' 
papers of the countrj-, and in this book he has faithfuhy written the 
most interesting and the most ludicrous events of that famous tour. 

Mr. Palmer is an accomplished newspaper man and an accepted 
authority on sports. He is a bright and witt}^ writer, and was never 
so thoroughly " in his element " as when, on the steamer's deck, in the 
railway carriage, or on the piazza of the hotel or inn overlooking 
the panorama of passing people, he wrote for American readers ac- 
counts of the feats and frolics of his fellow- tourists, the Base Ball Boys. 

His camera was as frequently and as wisely used as his pen, and the 
result is a charming galler}- of excellent portraits and sublime scenery, 
mingled with " snap-shots " of the boys or their mascot in ludicrous 
situations, that make brilliant pages which are already bright without 
them. 

We feel that no apolog}' is necessary for placing this book before 
the public. It has a decided mission for good. There is but one class 
of persons whom It could fall to interest. Those who have no appreci- 
ation for athletic manhood, no relish for Innocent sport, no taste for 
Avitty humor, who would rather sigh than smile, and prefer the shade 
because they are afraid of the sunshine, should not read it ; but, to 
those desiring to make a rapid tour of Europe, become acquainted 
with the strange people of several nations, go into their homes, learn 
their peculiarities and oddities, view the historic scenes and wonders 
of the Old World, and at the same time fill each day with fun and sun- 
shine, we extend a cordial invitation to join this jolly, good-natured 
party, and accompany us in the following breezy pages "Around the 
World with the Base Ball Boys." 

THE PUBLISHERS. 



CONTENTS. 



THE "AROUND THE WORLD" TOUR. [ 

BY HARRY C. PALMER. 

PAGE 

Organization of the Tour . . . . . . . . . . if 

Across the Continent .......... 22 

In California ............ 49 

San Francisco to Honohilu ......... 66 

At Honolulu, Sandwich Islands ......... 66 

Honolulu to New Zealand .......... 84 

The Samoan Islands . . . . ' . . . . . . . 89 

At Auckland, New Zealand ......... 91 

Auckland to Sydney, N. S. W. . . . . . . . ' . . 95 

Sydney 97 

On to Melbourne, Victoria . . . . . . . . . . la^ 

Melbourne to Adelaide , . . . . . . . . . 119 

Ballarat ............. 122 

Back to Melbourne 131 

On the Indian Ocean ........... 136 

Port Adelaide 141 

Ceylon, with its Strange Sights ......... 147 

From Ceylon to Egypt .......... 156 

The Gulf of Aden ■ . . 160 

The Red Sea and Suez .......... i6r 

Cairo .............. i66i 

The Pyramids and the Sphynx . . 171 

In the Suez Canal . . . . . . . . . . .184 

On European Soil ........... 186 

Naples, Pompeii and Vesuvius . . . . . . . . .189 

Rome and the Coliseum .......... 203 

Florence . . . . . .. . . . . . .212 

5 



6 CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Pisa, Genoa, Nice . . . . . . . . • • • 215 

Monaco and Monte Carlo . . . . . . . . . .217 

Guests at Monte Carlo .......... 221 

On to Paris ............. 223 

In the French Metropolis .......... 224 

The English Channel ........... 232 

Jn Old England ........... 234 

London ............. 235 

Eristol 244 

Back to London 248 

Birmingham ............ 250 

Sheffield and Bradford ........... 251 

Glasgow ............. 252 

Manchester ............. 253 

Liverpool ............ 254 

On the Irish Channel ........... 256 

Belfast 257 

Dublin 258 

Callan, Kildare, Kilkenny ......... 260 

Gork and Blarney Castle .......... 265 

■Queenstown ............ 267 

Homeward Bound ..'........ 269 

Home Again ............ 270 

Banquets, Receptions, etc. .......... 272 

The Tour Ended . 288 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Albert G. Spalding . 

Leigh S. Lynch .... 

Professor Bartholomew's Specialty 

Practical Joking in the Sleeping Car 

The Mascot's March to Victory . 

Ed Hanlon's Great Catch 

In a Hurry to Catch the Conveyances 

Home Runs of a Startling Sort 

Currecanti Needle ... 

The Mascot in Repose 

Healy's Day-dreams Rudely Broken 

The "Alameda " at her Dock in Honolulu 

Royal Hawaiian Band .... 

King Kalakaua and his Suite (Full Page) , 

Hawaiian Family Eating Poi ... 

Coast Scenery near Honolulu 

Statue of Kamehameha, the Conqueror 

Hawaiian Lady in Riding Costume 

Cutting " Pigeon Wings " before King Kalakaua 

Cricket on Shipboard ..... 

Captain Morse, of the "Alameda" 

Bird's-eye View of Auckland and its Harbor . 

Headlands of Sydney Harbor 

Panoramic View of Sydney and its Harbor 

A Colonial Thoroughfare .... 

Mr. Daniel O'Connor, M. P., Sydney, N. S. W. 
His Worship, Mayor Harris, of Sydney, N. S. W. 
Base Sliding as Australians Saw It . 
Farm Cove ...... 

Bathing Beach at Cougee Bay 
Town Hall of Melbourne, Australia 

7 



PAGE 
12 

14 
21 
26 
29 

35 
37 

40 

44 
46 

47 
68 
70 
71 

73 
76 

77 
78 
83 
85 
88 

9' 

95 
97 
98 

99 

100 
102 
104 

i°5 
no 



8 



ILL USTRA TIONS. 



Major Wardell, Secretary Victorian Cricket Association 
Grand Stand, Melbourne Cricket Grounds 
Baseball Tourists at Melbourne 
Exposition Building at Melbourne 
Professor Bartholomew .... 

Botanical Garden, Ballarat . 

A Jolly Party at Fern Glen 

Native Australian Woman and Babe 

Native Australian Man and Boy 

Flight on a False Alarm 

The " Salier " at her Dock, Port Melbourne 

Captain Thalenhorst .... 

The Mascot's Humiliation at the Punka Rope 

Amusements on Shipboard . 

Carrying Out the Sentence 

Fishing Boats of the Cingalese 

The Jolly Jinrickshaw .... 

Business Booths in a Columbo Street 

Snake Charmer and his Pet 

City of Suez . . . . . 

The Great Suez Canal .... 

Irrigating Machine of the Nile 
Egyptian Woman with Face Ornaments . 
Creating a Panic at an Egyptian Station 
MacMillan and Palmer Mounted for a Ride 
A Camel Train .... 

Bridge of the Nile 

The Contest of the Camels . 

At the Foot of the Pyramids . 

The Khedive of Egypt 

Passenger Boat of the Nile 

Common River Boats of the Nile 

An Egyptian School 

A Barber Shop in Cairo 

Healy Settling the Egyptian Peddler 

Sorrento, the Palisade City of the Mediterranean 

Via Roma, Naples ...... 

Remains of the Amphitheatre, Pompeii 

The House Ruffa, Pompeii .... 

Street of Plenty, Pompeii .... 

Railway up Mount Vesuvius .... 

A Peep into Vesuvius .... 

Court of San Martino, Naples 



PAGE 

[ II 

[14 

[iS 
[19 
[24 
[27 
[28 
[29 
'31 
135 
[37 
E40 
[41 

'45 
148 

'SI 
152 
t54 
[62 
.63 
164 

'65 
166 
169 

[72 

[74 

t75 
[78 

t79 
180 
181 
182 
'83 
>85 
1 89 
191 
192 

193 
194 

19s 
197 
201 



ILL USTRA TIONS. 



Novel Conveyance 

The Corse of Rome 

Front of St. Peter's 

Ruins of the Forum 

Interior View of the Coliseum 

The Arch of Titus 

The Arch of Septimus 

Rome from the Shore of the Tiber 

The Appian Way 

Column of the Conception 

Front of the Duomo, Florence 

Statue of Michael Angelo 

Panoramic View of Monaco 

Casino of Monte Carlo . 

Ante-room of the Casino 

Panel Decoration of the Casino 

Panel Decoration of the Casino 

Eiffel Tower .... 

The Column of July 

Arc de Triomphe 

Mr. C. W. Alcock 

Fac-simile Card of the Prince of 

The Club House 

Dr. W. G. Grace, the Famous Cricketer 

His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales 

Special Train of the Tourists 

The Irish Jaunting-Car 

The Ivy-covered Castle . 

Phoenix Park, Dublin . 

Sackville Street, Dublin 

Grafton Street, Dublin 

Blarney Castle 

«'A Fine Ould Irish Gintleman " 

The "All-America" Team after Reaching Home 



Wales 



(Full Pagi 



e) 



PACK. 
202 
203 
205 
206 
207 
20S 
209 
210 
211 
212 
213 
214. 
217 
218 
219 
222 
223 
225 
226 
229 

242 
244 

245 
250 

257 
259 
261 
262 
263 
265 
266 
271 



THE "AROUND THE WORLD" TOUR.* 

THERE have been some noteworthy tours in the history of modern 
athletics — tours that have commanded the interest and attention 
of the English-speaking, athletic-loving nations of the world. 
England's cricket teams have visited those of Australia, and Australia 
has likewise invaded England — a fact that not a few of old England's 
representative batsmen and bowlers remember with feelings of mingled 
regret and pleasure ; Ireland has sent her cricketers to America and 
America has flashed her most promising colors upon the great ovals 
of the British Isles ; Ned Hanlon has crossed the Atlantic and Pacific 
to do battle with English and Australian oarsmen in their own waters ; 
and an American wheelman has encircled the globe with the track of 
Hs bicycle. All these tours excited international interest, and their 
heroes were in each instance the recipients of many courtesies and kind 
attentions during their stay abroad and upon their return home. 

During all of this time, however, the national game of the Americans 
— save in a single instance — had never been carried beyond its own 
shores. It is a matter of history that in 1875 the old Boston and Ath- 
letic teams, embracing A. G. Spalding, Adrien Anson, Harry and 
George Wright, and others of America's crack professionals of those 
days, journeyed to England for the purpose of showing Englishmen 
the beauties of the American game. At that time, however, baseball 
had only just entered upon the remarkable era of public favor and pros- 
perity that has since marked its development in America, and it is safe 

* By Harry Palmer, the "Around the World " Tour correspondent of the New York Herald. 

1 I 



ALBERT G. SPALDING. 



to say there was not one Englishman out of every ten thousand who 
had even the faintest conception of the theory of the game, for no infor- 
mation bearing upon it had ever been sent to England previous to the 
advent of the American teams on British soil. In 1875 sentiment was 
not ripe for the successful introduction of our great field sport into any 
foreign country, and this fact made itself apparent to these touring players 
before they had been long in England. They were most hospitably 

received, however, and did 
it fall within the province 
of this chapter to speak 
more fully of that trip, 
much might be said of the 
courteous treatment ac- 
corded the Americans by 
the London cricketers and 
their friends. That tour 
Is memorable, even if only 
because of its pioneer char- 
acter. 

The great tour of the 
winter of 1888-89, how- 
ever, causes our first in- 
vasion of England to be 
almost forgotten, for it 
stands to-day, as it must 
for many years to come, 
far and away the greatest, 
most successful, and most 
noteworthy tour ever at- 
tempted in the history of 
athletics. The leader of the English tour of 1875 was also the leader 
of the world's tour of 1888. The English tour, however, was in reality 
but a mutually agreed upon and experimental trip, undertaken with 
very vague ideas as to what the result would be, artistically or finan- 
cially. At that time Albert Spalding was the young, popular and 
hard-working pitcher of the Boston Red-Stockings, with little more than 




ALBERT G. SPALDING. 



FINANCIAL PREPARATIONS. 



13 



-his energy, ambition, and love of the game to draw upon for the 
success of the trip. But how differently he organized, planned and 
conducted the tour of 1888-89. ^^ the possessor of ample means, 
absolute control of two well-selected professional teams, under contract 
to him for the faithful observance of his wishes, took the place of 
the mutual-arrangement aggregation of 1875, while the same great 
lubricator of all worldly enterprises — gold — rendered possible the 
employment of experienced assistants, the provision of comfortable, 
and for the most part luxurious accommodations, and in fact rendered 
practicable the tour of the world by representative American teams. 

The financial outlay of such an immense undertaking was neces- 
sarily very great. Mr. Spalding thought of this at the time he con- 
ceived the plan. He ailso realized that the receipts from such a trip 
could not be figiired upon as a factor in its success. Unfavorable 
weather might prevent no small proportion of the appointed games ; 
thousands of unprofitable miles would have to be traveled ; and, worse 
than all, a lack of interest or a failure of the people in Australia and in 
Great Britain to understand and enjoy the game, might result in finan- 
cial disappointment in the only countries included in the tour wherein 
there were grounds for hope of receipts. The financial failure of the 
trip seemed not improbable. Indeed, it was predicted by many. 

The projector of the tour did not, however, look upon it as a money- 
making venture, and it was probably because of this that unfavorable 
predictions did not discourage him or affect his plans. On the contrary, as 
the arrangements progressed the more liberal and broader-gauged they 
became. It was early determined that there must be no lack of means 
and no hesitancy in disbursing them, and there was none. Mr. Spald- 
ing for obvious reasons practically shouldered all financial responsibility, 
and at no time was money withheld or wanting when the welfare of the 
tour demanded its expenditure. The journey across America from 
Chicago to San Francisco, was made in special and. luxuriously-appointed 
dining and sleeping coaches ; the best hotel and steamer accommoda- 
tions that money could secure were enjoyed throughout the journey, 
and the tour of England and Scotland was made in a style that attracted 
as much attention as did the players themselves. In a word, a deposit 
of $30,000 in a Chicago bank as a "tour fund," with almost unlimited 



u 



THE BUSINESS MANAGEMENT. 



means behind this deposit, gave the party every reasonable assurance 
that a lack in this respect would not detract from their enjoyment. 

Associated with Mr. Spalding was Leigh S. Lynch, the well-known 
dramatic manager and formerly the associate of Mr. A. M. Palmer in 
the management of the Union Square Theatre. Lynch during his 
dramatic career had made the journey to Australia several times ; was 
possessed of a wide acquaintance in the colonies, as well as valuable 
experience in the management ot such parties ; and was altogether the 
man to assume the business management of the enterprise. At this 
time nothing had been said of a tour of the world, Mr. Spalding's only 



thouo-ht at that time 
tralia and New Zea- 
will be seen in the 
ever, the journey had 
before he had pretty 
turn to America via 
Europe, and the 
Once decided upon, 
big trip were actively 
of possible rivalry in 
for the time avoided. 
ed for Australia in 
secure exclusive con- 
poses, of the Austra- 
land cricket crrounds. 




LEICH S. LYXCH. 



beinsf to cover Aus- 
land thoroughly. As 
following pages, how- 
not progressed far 
well decided to re- 
the Red Sea, Egypt, 
Atlantic ocean, 
preparations for the 
begun, though for fear 
the field, publicity was 
Manager Lynch start- 
February of 1888, to 
trol, for baseball pur- 
lian and New Zea- 
Drawines for attrac- 



tive lithographs and announcement posters were at once begun, and 
this taxed the best skill of designers and lithographers. The outcome 
was indeed a work of art, picturing all the players in various attitudes 
of the play, and giving other attractive views calculated to arouse 
interest wherever seen. These posters preceded the party everywhere, 
and did much to arouse public interest. 

The all-important work of selecting the teams was also taken under 
consideration. This was no easy task. On the contrary, it was an 
exceedingly delicate undertaking. Not only must the men selected be 
the best exponents of the national game, but they must combine with 
their ball-playing ability, intelligence, good address, good habits, and good 



VISIONS OF DIFFICULTIES. 



15 



morals, qualifications not easy to find combined in any class of men. 
Confident that the trip would develop into one of international import- 
ance and interest, and that it would attract the attention of all English- 
speaking nations at least, Mr. Spalding was determined to take no 
chance of bringing discredit upon the party through the careless 
selection of his players. This point he kept in view not only during 
the time of selecting, but from the time the party left Chicago until it 
reached it again after having completed the circuit of the globe. The 
result was that the splendidly proportioned, well-mannered score of 
ball players was warmly welcomed and greatly admired in every 
country they visited as a representative and typical body of Americans, 
while, at the same time, they gave exhibition after exhibition of ball 
playing that will rank with the best ever seen upon American soil, even 
during the championship seasons. 

One would naturally suppose that an opportunity to see Australia 
would be eagerly seized upon by every clear-headed, intelligent Ameri- 
can who could possibly avail himself of it, and yet to Mr. Spalding's 
surprise he experienced serious trouble before the work of signing his 
men had been completed. The Chicago team, or rather ten of its 
ablest members, signed at once, and were eager for the trip. It was not 
so, however, with the Ail-American team, which it was intended should 
be composed of one or more players selected from the representative 
teams of the country. No difficulty was experienced in signing them, 
but after they had signed, visions of sea-sickness, of death upon foreign 
shores, and of disasters upon the ocean, began to arise before the eyes 
of some of the men, and two or three of them suddenly discovered 
insurmountable obstacles to their joining the party. Michael Kelly, of 
Boston, for instance, had entered mto business in New York, and was 
consequently unwilling to leave, even though he had signed a contract 
to do so. Tiernan, of New York, sent a telegram, in which he declared 
his inability to go, as he was "ill." Others were afflicted with sick 
mothers, and still others suddenly determined upon hasty marriages, 
until, at one time, it looked as though no team could be organized to 
oppose Chicago on the tour. Those who were willing to be persuaded, 
however, finally tossed their fears over their shoulders, and those who 
would not be persuaded were left behind, their places being filled by 
equally capable men. 



,6 FETED UPON THE PACIFIC COAST. 

In April, Lynch returned from Australia, and the plan of the tour 
having long since been made public, it became a never tiresome subject 
for comment and discussion in baseball circles throughout the United 
States, while the Australian press began to show an interest in the 
enterprise that augured well for its success in the Antipodes. The 
games of the world's championship series between the New York and 
St. Louis teams prevented Captain Ward and pitcher Ed Crane, of the 
New Yorks, joining the party at Chicago, but they overtook the company 
before it reached Denver; Herman Long, of Kansas Cit}^ Ed Hengle, 
and Frank Flint, of Chicago, accompanying the party until the arrival of 
the New Yorkers. Thereafter there was no break. After a farewell 
game upon the League grounds in Chicago, on the afternoon of October 
20th, the party traveled by easy stages across the continent toward San 
Francisco, playing en route at St. Paul, Minneapolis, Omaha, Des 
Moines, Hastings, Denver, Colorado Springs, Salt Lake City, Los 
Angeles and San Francisco, finally sailing from " Frisco " Sunday, No- 
vember 1 8 th, for the Sandwich Islands, New Zealand and Australia. 
The Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad had provided for the 
< party t\vo magnificently appointed -^ecial cars — a dining and a sleeping 

1 car — and upon these the journe) ide in truly luxuriant style as 

t far as Denver. Special cars upon the uenver and Rio Grande, and 

s Central Pacific roads carried the party the balance of the journey. 

f After two weeks of never-to-be-forgotten attentions and courtesies, 

1; including banquets, theatre parties and ball playing upon the Pacific 

t: coast, we boarded the steamship Alameda for the first sea voyage of 

ti the tour. Leigh Lynch had precaed th party in order to prepare for 

^\ its arrival at Honolulu, Aucklanu and Sydney, and the management 

o promised to fall, for a time at le" entirely upon President Spalding's 

ir shoulders. Fortunately for all c ir --d, however, " Jim " Hart, at that 

ai time the popular and energetic rr -a^er of the Milwaukee team, who had 

consented to accompany the pai ' . far as St. Paul, was prevailed upon 
cc to continue his journey in a m gerial capacity to the Pacific coast. 

e> Hart subsequently proved one Mr. Spalding's most valuable lieu- 

th tenants, his ability, experience as a manager, and wide acquaintance 

th proving of great service. 

To a description of the charminj tj' r a oss the prairies and through 
the mountains of America ; of the )va cception tendered the party 



READY FOR THE START, ly 

by His Majesty King Kalakaua in the Hawaiian Islands ; of the gener- 
ous hospitality of the Australians ; of the adventures and experiences 
of the Americans in the spice-scented island of Ceylon, in Egypt, in 
Arabia, through a delightful section of continental Europe, and in the 
British Isles, the following pages are devoted. 

THE PARTY. 

On the evening of October 20th, a few days after the close of the sea- 
son of 1 888, two magnificently equipped railway coaches stood in the 
Union depot at Chicago, their sides ornamented by long banners of 
■white linen upon which had been inscribed the words, " Spalding's Aus- 
tralian Baseball Tour." No other cars had ever stood in the great sta- 
tion similarly decorated, and yet no inquiries were made by the hun- 
dreds who crowded the platforms, for every well-informed traveler knew 
that the Chicago and Ail-American ball teams had played their fare- 
well game upon the Chicago grounds that afternoon and were about to 
take their departure for Australia. Hundreds of baseball enthusiasts, 
including scores of the personal friends and admirers of the departing 
players, crowded the station, and it was not until a few minutes before 
leaving time that the members of tne party bade a final farewell to 
the crowd, and, together with their rnortj intimate friends and relatives, 
passed through the gateways and sought the neighborhood of their 
train, where they said their last farewells to mothers, wives, and sisters. 
Perhaps no time could be more favqrable for the introduction of the 
reader to the individual members of the party than when, having stored 
valises, uniform bags, and su. dry packages away in their respective 
^sections, the boys awaited the iignal fur departure. 

Inside the car stood Captain Ansc n- and his wife ; she, tall and fair- 
Tiaired like her husband, witlj big Hu-^ Q/.es and a complexion typical of 
this particular charm in American w.gitaen. Near them were seated 
Mr. and Mrs. Ned Williamson, tht ciu:fily face and big muscular body 
•of the famous short stop bending ovjiji .die fair head and pretty face of 
the Southern girl he had made his wit p six years before. Further on 
stood Tom Burns, the quiet-mannered man-of-many-friends among ball 
players, in conversation with George Van Haltren, the well-propor- 
tioned and active Californian who ^iiS made an enviable reputation with 



iS THE PERSONNEL OF THE PARTY. 

the Chicago Club. " Van," by the way, accompanied the party only as 
far as San Francisco, his home. At the far end of the sleeper stood 
Tom Daly and Mark Baldwin, inseparables, and as we afterward 
learned, the leading spirits of the party in mischief and practical joking. 
Out upon the forward platform, blonde " Jimmy" Ryan leaned against the 
break-wheel conversing with two pretty girls, whose faces shone under 
the prismatic rays of the center-fielder's magnificent scarf-pin ; while 
just beyond, Fred Pfeffer, fauldessly attired, stood looking alternately 
at the toes of his patent leathers and admiring the faces of half a dozen 
Chicago beauties upon the other side of the railing. Out-fielders 
"Mart" Sullivan and "Bob" Petdtt, both "Yankees" from the hills of 
New England, and both fair-haired, muscular, and splendidly propor- 
tioned, pressed against the railing for a last farewell. Catcher Fred 
Carroll, broad-shouldered, muscular as a blacksmith, and handsomely 
dressed" in a light traveling suit, together with Tom Brown of the Bos- 
tons, chatted and laughed with George Wood and Captain Fogarty as 
the quartette stood beneath one of the big electric lights of the station. 
Wood, a blonde, and Fogarty, dark-complexioned, dark-haired, and dark- 
eyed, are, like Baldwin and Daly, chums. Both are members of the 
Philadelphia team and both are typical ball players of the higher class, 
in manner and appearance. Fogarty is an Irishman possessed of an 
inexhaustible fund of wit, a cheery presence and a handsome face. 
Save upop two occasions, once on the Pacific and once in crossing the 
English Channel, he was one of the well-springs of life to our party. 
Wood was more quiet, but as fond of life as his chum. Frank Silvester 
Flint, or " Old Silver," as he was known among the party ; John Tener, 
of the Chicagos, tall, dark, and slender ; Captain Ned Hanlon, of the 
Detroits ; Manager Jim Hart; Hermann Long, of Kansas City, and 
tall, blonde-headed John Healy, of Indianapolis, are comparing their 
watches with the big clock on the station wall, while among them all, 
passing from group to group of the party, with a kindly word here and 
there and an all-seeing eye to the details of arrangement, is Mr. Spald- 
ing, President of the Chicago Club and projector of the tour itself He 
came through the gates half an hour ago supporting upon his arm a 
stately, handsome, venerable lady, nearly as tall, robust and fine-look- 
ing as himself This was Mrs. H. I. Spalding, Mr. Spalding's mother. 



WAITING FOR THE START. ig 

and through the many miles of travel, as well as among the many atten- 
tions and courtesies showered upon us during the tour, the stately pres- 
ence, snow-white head, and kindly face of this honored lady ever swayed 
a genial and restraining influence over the more impulsive members of 
our combination, and lent that air of distinction which the presence of 
a stately woman alone can impart. 

Such was our party as it stood in the depot awaiting the first turn of 
the wheels upon that memorable tour, and it subsequently proved a most 
congenial and delightful party for all. It could not well have been 
otherwise, in view of the principles which guided Mr. Spalding in his 
selections, and during the entire journey around the world not an un- 
pleasant incident, nor a serious difference of opinion occurred to mar 
the pleasure of the tour. Later on, at Denver, the party was augmented 
by John Ward, the well-known captain of the New York team ; Ed 
Crane, the genial "tenor-pitcher" of the "Giants," whose excellent 
voice helped us to while away many a pleasant hour on deck ; " Billy" 
Earle, the enthusiastic little catcher of the Cincinnati team, whom we 
picked up at St. Paul, and James Manning, the popular captain of the 
Kansas City. In addition to these were Newton Macmillan, correspon- 
dent of theiWw York Sun, Mr. Goodfriend, of the Chicago Inter- Ocean, 
and the writer. Harry Simpson, of the Newark team, accompanied the 
party as Mr. Spalding's assistant, and afterward, remaining in Aus- 
tralia, did much toward helping the growth and development of the game 
there. 

At Denver we were joined by Leslie Robison, Jr., of Peoria, 111., who 
accompanied the party for the pleasure to be had out of the journey. 
Mr. Robison was a somewhat delicate looking young man, with a 
plethoric purse and a generous nature. That he was made welcome, 
goes without saying. At San Francisco the party was still further in- 
creased by Irving W. Snyder, of New York, and George Wright, of 
Boston. Snyder and Wright formed the third brace of inseparables in 
our party — " Two Dromios " in fact, who suffered and enjoyed every 
hour of the journey in close companionship. 

Perhaps, however, the two most interesting members of our combi- 
nation — interesting not only to us but to the people of every country 
we visited — were the " Professor " and the " Mascot." 



20 THE MASCOT. 

For the edification of readers not versed in baseball lore it should be 
stated that the mascot has become quite an important institution among 
tlie professional teams of America. He may be a boy possessed of 
some special attainment or physical peculiarity, or he may be a bull-pup 
^vith a prominent patch over his left eye. It matters not whether a mas- 
cot be brute or human, so long as his presence upon the players' bench 
insures a victor)' — in the minds of the players — to the team with which 
he has cast his fortunes and in whose favor he exercises the influence he 
is supposed to have with Dame Fortune. We picked up our mascot, 
Clarence Duval, at Omaha, a little, slenderly built, impish-faced negro, 
Avith a remarkable talent for plantation dancing, "hoe-downs" and "walk- 
arounds," and the gift of baton twirling to a degree well calculated to 
make the average drum-major wild with envy. A French actress making 
a tour of the Western States, and with whom he had traveled for some 
weeks as an attendant, had discarded him in the wilds of Nebraska and 
we picked him up en route. Subsequently he was rigged out in a red 
coat, gold lace, tight-fitting white trowsers and high-topped patent 
leather boots, and other paraphernalia of a drum-major's make-up, and 
led the teams upon the field for their games, walking in front of the line 
and swinging his silver-tipped baton in a st}'le that never failed to excite 
enthusiastic applause. On shipboard he danced for the part)', his music 
being the rhythmic clapping of hands by expert members of our part)'. 
The little beggar danced for King Kalakaua, amused the Prince of 
Wales and King Humbert of Italy, and afforded his fellow-tourists no 
end of diversion. Subsequentl)^ however, he proved a deserter. 

And now a word about "Professor" Bartholomew. " Proff," as the 
boys soon learned to call him, was certainly as original, adventurous 
and queer-lingoed a resident of Michigan as ever went beyond the 
shores of his own countr)-. The " Professor " was a balloonist who had 
broken nearly ever)- bone in his body and gouged out one of his eyes 
by falling into a tree-top during his professional career. Nothing de- 
terred, however, by his disastrous exploits of the past, he was still follow- 
ing the life of an aeronaut when he met our part)' in San Francisco. 
His proposal to make the tour with us to Australia was accepted by Mr. 
Spalding, and the " Proff" accordingly became one of the party. His 
specialt)-, that of parachute leaping, was comparatively new in the Anti- 



i 



THE "froff:' 



21 



podes, and his trip was a success, artistically and financially. It was 
indeed a thrilling sight to see him ascend, swinging to the trapeze bar 

of his balloon, until he became but 
a speck against the blue sky, and 
then suddenly leap from his perch 
out into space, clutching the bar of 
his parachute which trailed after his 
rapidly descending figure until the 
air caught its folds and spread it out 
like a big umbrella above him. The 
daring fellow, as soon as the para- 
chute had opened, would then go 
through a series of nerve-thrilling 
gymnastic performances that rarely 
failed to make more than one of his 
spectators turn their faces away in 
fear. A typical Yankee, with all the 
characteristic curiosity of New Eng- 
landers, he was a source of much 
amusement to our party, and an ob- 
ject of real interest to the people on 
the other side of the world. We were 
all thoroughly sorry when in Ballarat 
the "Professor's" descending para- 
chute hurled him against the zinc 
cornice of a roof and cut a big gash 
in both legs below the knees. He 
recovered during the voyage across 
the Indian ocean, however, and was 
soon as quizzical, curious and origi- 
nally funny as before the accident. 

Frank Lincoln, the American hu- 
morist, was one of us as far as Aus- 
tralia, but did not continue further. 
Leigh Lynch and Mrs. Lynch, nee 
Anna Berger, the celebrated cornetist, joined us in Australia, com- 




THE " professor's " SPECIALTY. 



2 2 ALONG THE ROUTE. 

pleting the party, which was but little changed during the remainder 
of the tour. 

But while I have been introducing my readers to the members of 
our party, tlie big station bell in the depot has sounded the time of 
our departure, and the train moves slowly past the platform, while 
hundreds of handkerchiefs flutter a farewell, and the first mile, in our 
journey of thirty-two thousand miles, has begun. 

ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 

Many American readers have taken the trip across the continent to 
California and the Pacific slope, and will therefore be familiar with not 
a few of the scenes through which our party passed. Let me say here, 
however, that no American can form any adequate idea of the grandeur 
and extent of his own countr)' until he has made this journey. The 
days of the bison, the Indian scout, and the red raiders of the immi- 
grant settlement are over, it is true, yet on every hand one sees evi- 
dences of a life so entirely different, so crude, when compared with 
methods and surroundings of an existence in the large cities of the East, 
that the people, their striking characteristics, their broad Western accent, 
their evident thrift and enterprise, and the apparent, though as yet im- 
perfectly developed, resources of the country, are as interesting a study 
as any to be met with in a journey around the globe. 

Our party, too, were making the trip under exceptionally delightful 
conditions. With our magnificently equipped special cars we wholly 
icrnored the hotels en route. Our comlnor havinor been well heralded 

o o o 

at each point, as well as our intention announced of crossing the Pacific 
to Australia, local enthusiasm had been aroused all along our route, 
and we were the recipients of marked attentions which assumed a 
public character before we had progressed very far upon our journey. 
At each city our arrival was awaited with impatience ; the press, not 
only of the West, but of the entire countr)^ watched our progress from 
day to day, the correspondents of our own party alone representing 
nearly thirty of the leading papers of the Union. It was pleasant to be 
thus anticipated ; to feel that timbrels were being sounded in honor of 
our arrival, and that thousands of honest regrets followed us upon our 
departure ; it was pleasant to be made much of; it was delightful to 



DIVERSIONS ON THE TRAIN. 23 

travel in such regal style, and altogether no lighter-hearted, more tho- 
roughly satisfied party than ours, ever crossed the continent. 

We left Chicago Saturday evening, October 20th, at 7 o'clock, and 
arrived at St. Paul the next morning. The trip from Chicago was filled 
with pleasant incidents up to the midnight hour. At each station we 
found enthusiastic crowds assembled, anxious for a glimpse at the party, 
and each assemblage gave us a hearty cheer as our train pulled out of 
the local station. Had we left Chicago in the morning our journey to 
the " Twin Cities " must have been one continuous ovation. We took 
dinner upon our dining-car, the " Cosmopolitan," shortly after leaving 
Chicago, and with that meal our party became a unit of congeniality 
and pleasant anticipation. After the tables were cleared, it quickly 
became apparent that every man of the party was provided with an 
entire poker outfit. To those of my readers who do not approve of 
card playing this inay appear as a reflection upon the moral tone of our 
ball players. But it should not. The games entered into by our party 
during our long tour of the world, were played rather for the interest 
and enjoyment they held for us, than for gain. During such a journey 
there are hours that cannot be passed half so pleasantly in any other 
"way, and if reference is made in succeeding pages to the games of 
■"draw" indulged in upon our sleepers, or to our chances at " Calcutta 
pool " during our sea voyages, the reader will understand that the indul- 
gence was the outgrowth of a desire for diversion, and not of a desire 
for gain. The ladies of our company, with the consideration character- 
istic of American women under such circumstances, generously com- 
manded the boys to smoke whenever and wherever they pleased, with 
the result that the sleeper " Galesburg " became not only our sleeping 
apartment, but our smoking-room, our club-room and our quarters for 
songs, jokes, music — we having a mandolin and guitar in the party — 
and a good time generally. The ladies participated in our music and 
shared our fun, while we, in turn, enjoyed their society from breakfast 
until bedtime. Such was our party, and such our methods of passing 
time, with ample means and incidents for diversion even from this 
pleasant mode of travel. 

Our arrival at St. Paul was the occasion of quite an assemblage at 
the Chicago, Burlington and Ouincy depot, on Sunday morning, the 



24 FLINT SUBSTITUTES KELLY. 

boys holding a levee in the sleeper " Galesburg" from breakfast time 
until nearly noon. A game had been scheduled for that afternoon, 
President Spalding having decided to adopt a policy on the Sunday 
game question, according to the established customs of the cities ia 
which we played. Sunday games had been an established institution 
in St. Paul for many seasons, and we consequently felt no hesitancy ia 
playing there on the day of our arrival. It was a bit chilly for ball 
playing, but we put up our second game of the trip in good style, and 
in the presence of two thousand people. Frank Flint (Old Silver), 
caught for the All-Americans, in the absence of Kelly, who had 
returned to New York under contract with Mr. Spalding, to arrange 
his business affairs, and rejoin us in Denver. Kelly's name was 
upon the score card, however, and It was some time before the crowd 
discovered the fact that "Silver," and not the only Kelly, w^as behind 
the bat. Flint might have passed for Kelly verj' well, but he struck out 
five times during the afternoon, and this was more than the crowd 
could stand. The weather was too cold for brilliant fielding, and the 
game was cut short at the end of the sixth inning, that Chicago 
might play the St. Pauls. 

This last was the game over which the crowd became most enthusi- 
astic, it being charged with a degree of local interest entirely lacking in 
the game between Chicago and All-America. St. Paul, of course, 
played ball for all they were worth, a natural and earnest desire to 
defeat so strong a combination in the presence of a local crowd, inciting 
them to their best efforts. Game was finally called at the end of the 
seventh inning, on account of darkness, wdth the score in favor of the 
St. Paul team, and Manager Barnes, of the local team, at once 
challenged Anson to another game at Minneapolis, on the following 
day. The challenge was accepted, and the visiting teams were 
driven to their cars. 

On the following morning our special cars were run down to Min- 
neapolis, and here the importance and character of the tour was, for the 
first time since our departure, declared with much pomp and dignit)-. 
A parade in a dozen landaus drawn by horses with old gold plumes and 



PRACTICAL JOKING. 25 

new gold blankets, behind a band of twenty-one pieces, led by a drum 
major with a scarlet coat and a big silver baton, emphasized our arrival, 
and although the day was colder than the preceding one, game w^s 
begun in the presence of 1800 people. The All-Americans turned the 
tables on Anson in this game, Tener being freely hit and none too well 
supported, while Van Haltren pitched an effective game for the opposing 
team. Meanwhile the crowd had been burning with impatience for the 
game between the Chicago and St. Paul teams to begin, and applauded 
enthusiastically when the players finally took the field. And what a 
game the youngsters did put up, to be sure. Tuckerman pitched and 
Earl caught for St. Paul, while Mark Baldwin, in the box for Chicago, 
proved a puzzle for every "Saint" who faced him. As inning after 
inning was played without a run being scored, the enthusiasm of the 
spectators knew no bounds. Pfeffer, however, finally made the winning 
run for Chicago in the fifth inning, reaching first on the play that put 
Anson out at second, stealing second, going to third on Tuckerman's 
wild throw to catch him off second, and crossing the plate on the play 
that retired Burns at first. It was a hard fight, though it lasted but 
five innings, and a credit to the St. Paul team though they did not win. 

At seven o'clock that evening we left Minneapolis for Cedar Rapids, 
and after a turn at the cards, a bit of music, and the enjoyment of our 
cigars, the party retired — but not to sleep. It was Tom Daly's night 
for practical joking, and few of us escaped. He fished a piece of ice 
out of the water cooler and slipped it into Tom Brown's berth ; he 
concealed himself behind the curtains of Herman Long's berth and filled 
the compartment Avith thick clouds of West Virginia " Stogie" smoke, 
until Long rolled from between the curtains, his eyes wet with tears, 
and vowing vengeance between his attacks of coughing ; he artistically 
decorated with lampblack the good natured face of the sleeping John 
Healy, and perpetrated some similar outrage upon each of his fellow 
tourists whom he found asleep. Meantime word had been passed along 
among the wakeful ones that Mr. Daly was executing "a raid," and 
as a result a grinning and expectant face shone from between each pair 
of curtains, save those behind which Daly's victims slumbered. 

Unfortunately for Frank Flint, his gentle snore reached Daly's ear 
through the berth curtains, and the joker, parting the drapings, stood 



26 



"5/Z VER 'S" A WAKENING. 



looking upon the slumbering form of his unsuspecting fellow player. 
The opportunit)'\vas too choice a one to be treated in an ordinanyMvay, 
and Tom stood for an instant with an expression on his face which told 
that his active brain was at work devising some crowning piece of mis- 
chief What it would be was the absorbing question with a dozen 
interested obsen^ers. 

In an instant he dropped the curtains and started for the rear end 
of the car, while a dozen pairs of eyes followed his movements. Our 
sleeper was the last car in the train, and Daly, stepping out upon the 
rear platform, detached one of the bull's-eye red lights from the railing 




PRACTICAL JOKING — " SILVER'S " FEARFl'L AWAKING. 



and re-entered the car. The dozen watchers now divined his intentions, 
and with difficulty restrained their laughter. Stepping carefully to 
" Silver's " berth, with the lantern in his hand, the joker quietly parted 
the drapings, and thrusting the lantern within twelve inches of Flint's face, 
made the berth walls echo with a yell that would have done credit to the 
lungs of a Sioux warrior. "Silver," who had been pressed into taking one 
or two " night-caps " beyond his usual allowance, was startled from his 



AN OVATION. 27 

dreams by the awful screech, only to gaze into the great red eye which 
Daly held steadily before his face. The lurid glare of the light blinded 
the old player and scattered his terrified thoughts beyond all hope of 
re-collection. Slowly he raised himself into a sitting posture, never once 
taking his wide open eyes off the horrible thing before him, and then 
as the climax of his fear was reached, gave a gasping, terrified howl, 
and plunged through the curtains into the aisle, striking his head with 
a resounding thump against the top of his bunk as he went. There 
he sat for a moment until the chokinof sounds issuincj from a dozen 
compartments caught his ear, and then sprang to his feet with a 
dangerous gleam in his eye, as an uncontrollable and simultaneous 
burst of laughter filled the car from end to end. Daly had suddenly 
disappeared, no one knew where, not to present himself until the 
steward announced breakfast. 

The teams were tendered a great ovation at the city of Cedar Rapids, 
which we reached on the morning of Tuesday, the 23d. Our cars 
-were switched upon a track just in front of the Union depot, and from 
the time the boys took their seats at breakfast in the dining-car, until 
they entered their carriages for the grounds, they were never lost 
sight of by the crowds that filed past our cars in such numbers as to 
impart a much better idea of the city's population than any of us had 
entertained before. Full half a dozen special trains were run into the 
city from adjacent towns, each train loaded, and by noon the city pre- 
sented a holiday appearance. A more beautiful day for a ball game 
could scarcely be imagined, and fully four thousand people flocked to 
the p;rounds to witness the sfame, which was well worth oroing- to see. 
At the request of many, Mr. Spalding acted as umpire. The score 
was tied in the fifth inning and again in the eighth, the victory finally 
going to Chicago when Ryan crossed the plate with one man out in the 
ninth inning. After the game, Mr. W. C. Beake and other gentlemen, 
who had arranged our reception at Cedar Rapids, together with their 
wives and daughters, supped with us in the " Cosmopolitan," President 
Spalding breaking a case of " Mumm" with the boys, in appreciation 
of the dash and spirit they had thrown into their game during the after- 
noon. We left Cedar Rapids at 6.30 p. m., with the parting cheers of 
the crowds at the depot ringing in our ears, and reached Des Moines, 



28 THE DUSKY MASCOT. 

the State capital, the following morning. The game at Des Moines was 
witnessed by some 1500 people and was the prettiest contest yet put 
up by the touring teams. Hutchinson and Sage, of the local team, in 
response to a request made by several Des Moines gentlemen, filled 
the points for the All-America against Chicago, and did some great 
battery work, while they received excellent support in the field. We 
were joined at Des Moines by Frank Lincoln, the well-known American 
monologue artist, who accompanied our party upon a professional trip 
as far as Australia. 

From Des Moines we pushed on rapidly toward Denver, stopping 
en route for games at Hastings and Omaha. At the latter point we 
picked up Clarence Duval. Tom Burns espied the little African as the 
teams were on their way to the grounds in carriages, with a full military 
band at the head of the line. A sorry looking little "nig" Clarence 
was, with his dusty and tattered garments, and his badly battered cap 
to one side of which a thread of gold lace was clinging, the only relic 
of better days the poor little darkey possessed ; unless, perhaps, it was the 
tarnished baton he carried. " Bless me !" said Tom Burns, as he caught 
sight of the boy, "if there isn't the little coon. Where in the world 
could he have come from ?" and the third-base man beckoned to Clar- 
ence, who scattered the crowd in his desperate efforts to respond. 

It seems that while the Chicago team were east upon a championship 
trip, Anson met the boy in Philadelphia, and being taken with the 
urchin's precocity, as well as his dancing and baton-twirling skill, had 
made him a proposition to travel with the team as "mascot," an offer 
the boy quickly accepted. He was accordingly togged out in a page's 
suit of navy blue with brass buttons, at Anson's expense, and promised 
to henceforth use his influence in favor of his benefactors. In New 
York, however, he came under the notice of M'lle Jarbeau, a French 
actress playing the country at that time, and the attractions of stage 
life held out to the newly appointed "mascot" were too great for him 
to withstand. He deserted the diamond for the staofe, and the team 
had seen or heard nothing of him until Tom Burns caught sight of him 
at Omaha. 

There was a merry sparkle in the waif's eye as he jumped out of 
the carriage at the grounds, and with prompt re-assumption of his 



THE CROWD CHEERS. 



former authority, ordered the uniformed teams to " Dress ranks, dah!" 
Then, as the band struck up a march, he tossed his rusty baton into the 
air, and, while walking in front of the Hne of players, went through a 
series of movements and tactics that caused the real drum-major of the 
band to rest his baton upon his arm and gaze at his youthful superior 
in astonishment. The exhibition caught the crowd, and it cheered the 
darkey for his inimitable performance, as heartily as it did the players 
when they drew up before the grand stand. 




THE MASCOT S MARCH TO VICTORY. 



" Where'd you come from, boy?" asked Anson, in a gruff voice, as he 
shook hands with the lad. 

" Mjss Jarbeau don gimme my release dis mawnin'," was the reply. 

"Well," said Anson, "you're black-listed from this party; d'ye under- 
stand? We've got no use for deserters." 

"I reckon you'se right, Cap'n," was the boy's philosophic reply, 
"but," he added with a quick look for a bit of sympathy in Anson's 
face, "Fse had a mighty hahd time ob it since I left you all." 



.Q AN ACCIDENT. 

"Ahey,"said Anson, "I don't doubt it in the least. You look as 
though you had, and you desene it. But we're done wth you," and 
Anson walked ofif to the field while Clarence strolled over to the 
players' bench and sat down with a ver\- downcast expression of coun- 
tenance. 

It all ended, however, by Clarence re-entering the carriage withi 
Burns and returning to the train with our part}', where I found him half 
an hour afterwards, sobbing at having been ordered out of the car by 
'• the old man," as the boys soon began to designate Anson. We got 
together, however, and took up a purse for the little darkey, and then 
talked to Anson until he relented and decided that Clarence should 
accompany us as far as San Francisco, and further, if he behaved him- 
self It will be seen in the ensuing pages that he proved a great 
source of amusement to us during hours that without him might have 
been dull. 

The game at Omaha resulted in a sweeping victory for the All-America 
team. Ryan took the box for Chicago, and his slow, easy-left-handed 
delivery deceived the opposing batsmen under Hanlon's captaincy, until 
the fifth inning, when Hanlon, Hengle, Van Haltren and Long suddenly 
dropped to his cur\-es and pounded him unmercifully. The exhibition 
of batting pleased the Nebraska people immensely, and they howled 
themselves hoarse, as All-America made the circuit of the bases time 
and again. 

At Hastings, however, Chicago turned the tables upon their oppo- 
nents, and with Baldwin in the box batted out a prett}' victor}- off Van 
Haltren's deliver}-. The falling of a section of the grand stand just 
before the game commenced, and the unexpected precipitation of a 
hundred or more spectators a distance of twent}- feet to the ground, 
proved a serious though not fatal accident, but the crowd of three 
thousand people who had come, not only from Hastings, but from all 
surrounding points, were out for a holiday and a day's fun upon the 
occasion of the visit of the teams to their cit}-, and soon forgot the 
incident in the excitement of the orame. While at Hastinofs, some of 
the boys took Clarence Duval, gave him a bath, and arrayed him 
in completely new apparel, and when he returned to the car, the rest 
of the part}- scarcely recognized him. He sported a light check travel- 



CLARENCE'S DEBUT. 



3r 



ing suit with a natty hat to match, patent leather shoes, new underwear,, 
spotless linen, and carried a cane. When he led the teams upon the 
ground that afternoon he was certainly as much of a curiosity as the 
teams were an attraction, and President Spalding, who had been absent 
from the party on a trip to Kansas City and who returned just in 
time to see Clarence's debut, decided at once to take him with us to 
Australia. He was made to sign an iron-clad contract, in which he 
agreed to undergo all sorts of horrible penalties upon the first attempt 
at desertion. Anson, however, would not be convinced of the little 
darkey's sincerity, and said, that night upon the train, as he looked the 
mascot over in his new clothes, "this reminds me of the new suit I o-ave 
you in Philadelphia, last spring, in which you ran away from us two 
days afterward. It would not surprise me a bit if you should desert 
us at San Francisco." Clarence looked indignant. 

" Ain't I done signed dis contrack ?" he asked. " Ain't me word 
good?" 

"I should say not," replied Anson, " didn't you run away before?" 

"Didn't I done tell you I was kidnapped?" replied Clarence. 

"Pshaw," said Anson, contemptuously; "I believe you would desert 
us now for Miss Jarbeau, if she happened to run across you." 

" Well," said Clarence, philosophically, " dat's because you don't 
know me. I habn't de slightest doubt in de world dat if Miss Jar- 
beau seen me now," and Clarence looked at his new outfit with an 
unmistakable expression of pride, " she'd say to me, ' My gracious, 
Clarence, whar you been ? come along wid me, boy, and don't let me 
lose sight ob you agin.' I know she'd say jus' dat." 

" And what would you say ?" asked Anson, with an amused smile. 

"What I say?" said Clarence, and he looked the impersonation of 
pride and self-confidence, " why I just say, ' Go on, white woman, I don't 
know you now, an' I neber did know you.' No sah, Mr. Anson, I is 
done wid actresses de rest ob my nat'ral life, an' you hear what I 
say." 

He kept his word and stayed with the party until we reached Chicago 
on our return, but he proved so utterly worthless and so trifling that, 
despite his dancing powers, we should not have been sorry had he been • 
left in America. 



32 



THE DENVER AlIRAGE. 



While en route from Hastings to Denver, we met the St. Louis train 
at Oxford, Nebraska, and, while we were waiting the connection, Captain 
lohn Ward, accompanied by Ed Crane and Will Brown of the New 
Yorks, dusty and travel-stained, but none the less welcome, rushed in 
upon us. Brown was on his way home to spend the winter in Califor- 
nia, and was still suffering from the broken thumb he received in St. 
Louis, in the World Championship series between the Browns and the 
New York team. Crane and Vv'ard, however, had come to join the 
Australian party as members of the All-America team. President 
Spalding having brought Captain Manning with him from Kansas City 
and telegraphed for Earle at St. Paul, our part)' was complete at 
Denver, where Hengle, Long and " Old Silver," left us, to return to 
Chicago. 

When we awoke for breakfast on the morning of the 27th, we were 
rolling over the beautiful prairie lands some fifty miles east of Denver. 
The air was clear and exhilarating, as it always seems to be at those high 
altitudes, and eveiy man of the party declared himself in splendid con- 
dition, as a result of the cool, bracing atmosphere, and the anticipation 
of reaching the first really important stopping-place upon our journey 
across the continent. While at breakfast, the ladies of the party were 
the first to catch sight of the great snow-capped mountains, rising like a 
mirage in the distance, and as we drew near Denver, the outlines of 
the great piles of rock, with their beards of stately pine and fir, and 
their glistening summits, became more and more distinct, until one of 
the part)' ventured the opinion that they were not more than six or 
seven miles away. "They are forty-eight, sir," said the conductor, who 
happened to be passing at that moment and heard the remark, " they 
deceive nearly every one who looks at them for the first time and who 
is unaccustomed to estimating distances upon the prairies in high 
altitudes. It is no trick at all in this country to see from forty to fifty 
miles, and at some seasons of the year even further than that." 

Denver is, in appearance as well as in fact, the metropolis of Colorado, 
and also of the entire country between that State and the Rocky 
Mountains. It is a beautiful city, inhabited by thrifty, enterprising 
people, who seem to make money easily and let it go unhesitatingly. 
They are great patrons of amusements of all kinds, great lovers of the 



A DISAPPOINTED POPULACE. 33 

good things of life, and consequently enthusiastic supporters of base- 
ball. That they had been expecting us was clearly evident on every 
hand. Our coming had been w^ell announced, and the private cars 
which had been side-tracked for our use at the depot were surrounded 
by visitors during the entire morning of our arrival. The parade in Den- 
ver was a showy one, and when the teams passed through the gate into 
the grounds. Manager Hart was having all he could do to handle the 
crowd. Here, as at Hastings, Clarence Duval's drum-major perform- 
ance, as the teams came upon the field, was the signal for hearty laugh- 
ter and applause. The crowd soon showed that although it had not had 
the privilege of witnessing league games through the season, it was 
perfectly familiar with every player that made up both the Chicago and 
the All-America teams ; familiar not only with his personal appearance, 
but with his record, his position on the field, and his especially good 
qualities as a player. It was the more to be regretted, therefore, that 
the boys should not have put up a better game than the first of the two 
games played at Denver. 

The field upon which they played, however, was not the best in the 
world, being hard in one spot and soft and sandy in another, while the 
fact that the players were imaccustomed to playing in such a rarefied 
atmosphere had much to do with the exhaustion of the base-runners. 
Denver had been accustomed to seeing much better ball-playing than the 
Australian teams gave them an exhibition of; and as they expected much 
better playing than they had ever before seen upon the home grounds 
between the local teams, they were naturally much disappointed. On 
the other hand, the further the game progressed the more annoyed and 
the more discouraged the players got, and the more stubborn and erratic 
the spirit which moved the ball. For instance, the ball would be batted 
straight at Williamson, and Pfeffer, seeing a chance for a double play, 
would run up to take the ball from the bat, short-stop at second. Just 
before it got to Williamson, however, ten to one it would bound clear 
over his head, or shoot between his knees, with the result, not only that a 
double play was spoiled, but that what looked like a very stupid error 
had been committed, and both in-fielders would return to their positions 
very much out of temper, and consequently more than ever liable to 
make new mistakes. It was a big crowd and a very enthusiastic one 



34 A GOOD GAME. 

at the start, but the score of i6 to 12, by which the Chicago won the 
game, was a decidedly unsatisfactory one to the spectators, who had 
been accustomed to a much better rendering of the national game. 

If we played a poor game on the day of our arrival, however, we 
more than made amends the following day, when, I think, the boys put 
up one of the prettiest contests that it has ever been my pleasure to 
witness. The crowd was perhaps not so large, but fully 4000 people 
gave their enthusiasm full vent, and at least half that number left the 
grounds with sore throats and with voices hoarse from cheering. Billy 
Earle, who had just joined the party at Denver, and Ed Crane and Van 
Haltren did the battery work for the All-Americas, while John Ward, 
playing with the team for the first time, covered "short" in a style that 
no one but Ward has mastered. That John was not unknown in Den- 
ver was clearly evident, for when he came to the pJate in the opening 
inning the big crowd gave him a hearty welcome of applause. His 
clever and strategic batting pleased the spectators as well as did his 
fielding and base running, and he was cheered again and again as a 
reward for his efforts. Crane and Baldwin were both at their best in 
the box, and the former only gave way to Van Haltren in the eighth 
inning because he could no longer continue such hard pitching against 
the rarefied atmosphere. Van proved as formidable as Crane, and 
when the ninth inning was completed, with the pitchers working their 
hardest and the support of each man playing ball with their teeth set 
and bent upon winning the game, the crowd was in a state of suppressed 
interest and excitement that found vent at every opportunity, in the 
wildest cheers. 

Some of the fielding work was superb, while the efforts of the base 
runners, despite their shortness of breath, kept the crowd howling 
through both of the extra innings played. It was Hanlon's catch, how- 
ever, that caused the crowd to lose all control of itself Almost out of 
sight into the blue air sailed the ball, and away across the field sped 
Hanlon at a rate that a professional sprinter would have been proud of; 
Sullivan, in the meantime, made the dust fly around the runways; just 
once Hanlon turned to look above, and then ran on again faster, if pos- 
sible, than before. Suddenly, however, he stopped, turned his face to 
the crowd, ran backward for fifteen or twenty feet, then threw his handa 



HANLON'S CATCH. 



35 



above his head ; at the same instant his heel struck a hilloclv ot sand 
and pitched him headlong through the air upon his back. As he fell, 
however, his right hand was held above him, and as he sprung to his 
feet the crowd saw that he held the ball. For probably five seconds 
that big assemblage held its breath, and then, as the famous outfielder 
started in for the diamond and the balance of the All- America players 
turned toward their bench, such a cheer went up as one rarely hears on 

the ball field. For 
baseball enthusiasts 
"^ and lovers oi the 




ED HANLON's great CATCH AT DENVER. 

game it was, indeed, a scene for an artist, 

and Hanlon was cheered and cheered 

until he paused to raise his cap in front of the grand stand. It was a 

magnificent game, and completely offset the disappointment which our 

game of the day before occasioned. 

We left Denver the same evening for Colorado Springs, where we 
were announced to play upon the day following. Much to our regret, 
our broad gauge, splendidly equipped dining and sleeping cars were 



36 NARROW GAUGE. 

left at Denver, and our combination was transferred to two narrow- 
gauge sleepers especially reserved for us, in which we were to make 
our journey through the mountains over the Denver and Rio Grande 
Road. Compared with the spacious carriages we left behind, the 
narrow-gauge cars seemed like toy cars, but they were completely 
equipped for all that, and we had a world of fun in them before we left 
them at Ogden, in far-away Utah. Indeed, the only serious ground for 
revolt against our new accommodations that any of our party could dis- 
cover was the narrow space of the sections, which crowded to no incon- 
siderable extent some of our four-handed poker parties who were 
desirous of wooing Dame Fortune in the same section. This reminds 
me that the poker element in our party had received an important 
addition in the person of Captain Anson's father, " Pa Anson," as we 
soon learned familiarly to call him, in order to distinguish him from his 
stalwart son. According to the old gentleman's theory there were but 
two sources of enjoyment in life ; one was a ball game and the other 
was a good poker game. " Why," said the old gentleman, as his portly 
figure and ruddy face, despite his silver hair, told that he had enjoyed 
every day of life accorded him, " I would rather play poker and lose 
right along, than not to play at all." 

We received a great send-off as the train pulled out of the Union 
Depot at Denver ; every man seemed to have a score of friends to see 
him off, and every traveler about the Depot staid around our cars to 
get a glimpse of so celebrated an aggregation of ball players. 

We arrived at Colorado Springs the following morning before day 
had fairly broken, and of all the delightful breaks in our journey across 
the country our visit to this Saratoga of Colorado was perhaps the most 
amusing and most prolific of pleasant incidents. Mr. Spalding had 
very thoughtfully telegraphed from Denver to have carriages and sad- 
dle-horses waiting our party at the depot by six o'clock upon the morn- 
ing of our arrival, in order that we might enjoy a ride to Manitou and 
the Garden of the Gods, and when the colored porters awakened us, 
there was a scramble among the party to see which should first get 
into his clothes and out upon the platform for a first choice of horses 
and equipages. By seven o'clock, just as the sun was gilding the very 
top of " Old Pike," our party had entered three comfortable park wagons 



A DELIGHTFUL DRIVE. 



Z7 



and mounted a dozen bronchos with enormous saddles, which really 
covered fully one-third of their sinewy litde bodies. It was a beautiful 
drive, one that none of us will ever forget. Eighteen miles ahead of 
us and a litde to the left, arose Pike's Peak, so massive and grand in its 
proportions that it looked, in the clear atmosphere of the morning, 
scarce five miles away. The bright sunlight brought out every crag and 
crevice upon its rugged 
old sides, and as we ap- 
proached it it towered 
before us more imposing 
in its grandeur than all 





IN A HURRY TO CATCH THE CONVEYANCES. 



the descriptions we had read of it had prepared us for. To our extreme 
right we could just catch sight of the peaks of towering sandstone that 
form the Gateway to the Garden of the Gods, while before us twined 
the picturesque and well-beaten roadway through the valley. 

Manitou was six miles distant. It is the summer resort of wealthy 
Western people, who have built attractive and Swiss-like residences 



-,S NATURE'S FANCIFUL DESIGNS. 



o 



upon the mountain sides and in the off-shooting valleys, that they might 
here enjoy the cool bieezes and the mineral waters during the summer 
months. We dismounted at Manitou and drank of the delicious waters 
in the Silver Springs, after which we enjoyed a splendid breakfast at the 
Cliff House. Then resuming our horses and carriages we passed down 
the picturesque mountain road and a mile below turned off into a little 
valley which led to the rear entrance of the Garden of the Gods. The 
peculiar formations of sandstone to be seen in everj^ shape and upon 
every side in this remarkable spot, have been described time and again 
by all travelers, who have doubtless felt, just as I feel, that their duty to 
their friends would not be fully discharged did they fail to write some- 
thing descriptive of that spot which nature has so charmingly and fanci- 
fully designed. "Punch and Judy," "The Balanced Rock," "The 
Mushroom Rock," "The Duck," "The Frog," "The Lady of the Gar- 
den," and "The Kissing Camels," are all wonderfully true to the objects 
they are fancied to represent. The piles of sandstone reaching 330 
feet into the air, forming the Gateway of the Garden, impress one as no 
description of these wonders could, with the matchless sublimity of the 
creative power. After admiring the many weird and remarkable things 
to be seen in this play-room of Nature, we passed through the Gateway, 
our equipages winding away through the valleys and then up the side 
of a hill for perhaps two miles, to the summit. Here we came out upon 
a broad plateau and, as we rounded the last turn in the roadway and 
stood upon the topmost ridge, a chorus of admiring exclamations went 
up from a score of voices as we caught sight of " Old Pike " rising be- 
fore us in full view, and in all its impressive majest}", upon the other 
side of the little valley where nestled Manitou. Cheyenne Mountain 
lay, dark and sullen, to the left of the great snow-capped peak. Twent)-- 
five miles away, distinct and clear as though but ten, there stretched the 
far-reaching ranges of the Rockies. Six miles away lay Colorado 
Springs, which we had left nearly si.x hours before, and for which we 
now drove at a brisk gait. 

The ride home, over the hard mountain roads and in the clear morn- 
ing air, was enjoyable, refreshing, invigorating. The Park wagons 
bowled along at a brisk speed, while Pettit, Carrol and Tom Brown, 
three of the best horsemen in our part)-, had a great race across the 



THE BOYS ON HORSEBACK. 39 

plateau, Pettit finally distancing both of his competitors. This reminds 
me of other equestrian experiences during the morning. Several of our 
party, a dozen, perhaps, rode bronchos, all of which were provided 
with the exaggerated saddles I have mentioned. President Spalding 
rode a bay gelding and, as he is quite a horseman, managed the hot- 
tempered beast admirably. Captain Anson bestrode a cross-eyed sor- 
rel, which I afterwards learned had been the property of a Colorado 
cowboy. During the ride two or three head of mountain cattle became 
excited by the approach of our cavalcade and dashed on in front of us 
over the smooth roadway. Anson's sorrel, true to his early training, 
stuck his stubby tail out behind him, laid his ears back upon his head, 
and, with a vicious squeal, started after the now thoroughly-frightened 
longhorns. How " the old man " managed to stop his beast I do not 
know, but when we came up with him a quarter of a mile ahead, Anson 
was sitting down at the roadside and his horse was tied to a post near 
by. At Manitou the sorrel was turned over to Bob Pettit, and under 
Bob's master-touch the old ranger, who had plenty of spirit and bottom 
left, proved a better nag than all the others in the party. 

Mark Baldwin rode a mustang which persisted in waltzing all over 
the road with his rider. The animal's antics and Mark's heavy weight 
finally broke the saddle-girth, and the big pitcher was pitched into the 
dust. He promptly turned his waltzer over to Sullivan, and the latter 
proved himself a horseman. Ed Crane rode a bay bolter, and rode so 
well that no one would believe his story that he had never been in a 
saddle before. Carroll and Tom Brown were both at home upon the 
sturdy little ponies, and the style in which they cut loose over the moun- 
tain roads caused the natives we met with to wonder at their reckless- 
ness. On the way back to the Springs Ward and Crane got separated 
from us in some way, and half an hour later, when the boys in uniform 
were seated in their carriages at the depot, ready to start for the 
grounds, two horsemen appeared away up on the side of the mountain, 
coming along the roadway, evidently with more regard for time than for 
their personal safety. Their sure-footed ponies brought them down all 
right, however, and a few moments later Ward steered his mustang 
into a post at the depot, grasped him about the neck with both arms, 
and took a slide over his head that \vould have won him a big burst of 



40 



A DETERMINED PONY. 



applause had he been able to get It off in the same style on the diamond. 
Crane could not stop his horse at all. The animal had evidendy been 
out on such jaunts before, and was positively bent upon repeadng an 
old and familiar trick. \\'ith the bit in his teeth, he kept on through 
the town for the stable, and Crane had to roll off of him as he finally 
shot through the low door of the barn. We could not wait for Ward 
to dress, and so drove to the grounds ; but John was equal to the occa- 
sion. He called a boy to hold his pony, and. 
donning his uniform in the car, remounted and rode 




HOME RUNS OF A STARTLING SORT. 



to the grounds a la Paul Revere, save that he wore the uniform of the 
All-Americas instead of the Condnentals. 

The Denver and Rio Grande Railway people had promised to hold 
the train for us an hour, if necessary, and had they done so we would 
have had ample time to finish the game in good style. We had scarcely 
begun, however, before we received word that the train could not be 



A SERIOUS SITUATION. 41 

held over fifteen minutes, and this fact being communicated to the 
players they were at once seized with a desire to get through, even at 
the cost of good ball-playing. The result was that they became nervous. 
The glaring sun shone down from a confusingly "high" sky, and, to make 
matters worse, not a man could run bases without nearly dropping, from 
short wind, as the result of the rarefied air. As at Denver, the crowd 
knew what good ball-playing was, and naturally felt dissatisfied with such 
an exhibition, but there was no help for it. The boys could not have 
put up a better game, under the circumstances, to have saved their lives, 
and at the conclusion of the sixth inning, with the score 13 to 9 in favor 
of Chicago, we piled into our carriages amid the jeers of the crowd, 
which, by the way, was an e.xtremely fashionable one, and cut loose, 
amidst a cloud of dust, for the depot. So great was the hurry that we 
might easily have left two or three of our party and not have known it. 
However, all the players managed to keep our carriages in sight, and 
our party was intact when we reached the depot. 

"All right?" shouted the conductor, questioningly, as he looked at 
President Spalding and prepared to wave his hand to the engineer, 

"All right, I guess," said Mr. Spalding, doubtfully. But just then 
he happened to catch sight of a cloud of dust away up the roadway, and, 
looking anxiously towards it, he called out to the conductor to hold on 
for a moment, at least. The cloud of dust rapidly became larger, and 
as it neared us we could see that it surrounded a horseman who was 
sparing neither himself nor his beast to lessen the distance between 
himself and our train. As he came nearer we recognized Jim Hart. 
Jim, it seemed, had remained behind at the grounds to settle the ques- 
tion of finances with the local ground authorities. When he had finisiied 
counting his cash he discovered that the party had left him. With two 
bags of silver, weighing probably fifteen pounds apiece, with three miles 
between himself and the railroad station, and with the time of departure 
but a few minutes off, the situation was certainly a serious one. It was 
by no means too small a hole for Manager Jim to pull out of, however, 
and, seizing the first mustang that he could lay his hands on, without 
regard to the arrangements of the owner, he slung his twin saddle-bags 
across the neck of the mustang, and commenced his race for the train. 
When Jim reached us he was covered with dust, the perspiration was 



42 THROUGH MOUNTAIN PASSES. 

streaming down his face, his collar was in a state of complete dissolu- 
tion, his trousers had worked half-way up to his knees, and his silk hat, 
badly in need of an ironing, was jammed down over his face, while he 
clung desperately to the sacks with one hand and endeavored to guide 
his by no means mild-spirited mustang with the other. His appearance 
was too much for the risibilities of our part}-, and we howled with 
laughter as we drew his exhausted form upon the rear platform of the 
now moving train. I am verj' sure no member of our partj^ will ever 
forget Colorado Springs, and it is not at all likely that Colorado Springs 
Avill ever forget the Australian Baseball part}-. 

Soon after leaving Colorado Springs we entered the mountains, and 
about the hour of sunset we steamed into the Grand Canon of the 
Arkansas. At the mouth of the canon, an obsen-ation car, with a seat- 
ing capacit)'' of about loo people, was attached to the rear of the 
train, and into this we crowded. Then right into the heart of the moun- 
tains plunged the puffing pair of engines that drew us. Immense walls 
of rock rose hundreds of feet upon each side of the track, and the head 
■waters of the Arkansas river boiled and frothed in the mountain gorge 
below us, while the narrow-gauge line of railway twisted and turned 
upon its way through the grim chasms, so narrow, so deep, and so dark 
that at times we wondered if we should ever emero^e from them. Soon 
we swung into the Royal Gorge, over the suspended bridge that spans 
the torrent at this point, and then on through the bowels of the moun- 
tains where the sunlight has not reached, mayhap for centuries, and as 
I looked upon the massive piles of rock that lie in awful disorder, or 
rise in towering spires. — the thought came unbidden — how fearful must 
have been the convulsions, and how terrible the throes through which 
old '• Mother Earth" passed ere these imposing masses were piled in 
such Avild confusion. We stopped at little mountain station of Solida for 
supper and then steamed upon our way for ^Marshall Pass, which may, 
without doubt, be classed among the grandest stretches of mountain 
scenery in the Avorld. Our train was divided into two sections, of which 
the sleepers constituted one. Each section was drawn by two powerful 
engines and up the sides of these towering mountains we climbed, our 
trains being, perhaps, a mile apart. The moon had not risen, and the 
great cliffs and gorges were shrouded in impenetrable darkness. 



FROM SUJSlSHINE TO SNOW. 



43 



Across the chasm on our right moved the lighted train of coaches form- 
ing the first section, four hundred feet above us, the furnace doors 
of the engines wide open, the smoke-staclcs sending forth showers of 
red-hot sparlcs and smoke, whicli looked like liquid fire as they plunged 
into the precipice, along the edge of which the train was running. 

"Is there any bottom to this chasm ?" asked one of our party of the 
conductor who had joined us at the window. 

"Well, there is no telhng that," repHed the officer; "a freight train 
rolled off there a few months ago and we never heard of any of 
them since, but we could see bits of the cars sticking to the sides of the 
canon, not bigger than so many pieces of kindling wood. If there is 
any bottom to it, I never have seen the man that has found it." 

Silence, like a mantle, fell upon the little group at our window as the 
conductor spoke, for we all knew that within a few minutes our train 
would be passing that identical spot, with a mass of towering granite on 
one side and an impenetrable chasm on the other. The wheels of our 
little sleeper hugged the steel rails closely, however, and ultimately 
we stopped on the back-bone of the great dividing range of America, 
10,858 feet above the level of the sea. As the train stopped we all 
jumped from the coaches, and stood knee deep in the snow along the 
side of the tracks. Imagine it. Six hours before we had been playing 
ball under a hot sun at Colorado Springs, and now we were indulging 
in a game of snowball on the top of the Rocky Mountains. From 
Marshall Pass our journey was down hill, of course. We had left the 
country of the Missouri and the Mississippi and were descending the 
Pacific slope. The views of mountain scenery we had enjoyed thus far 
had surpassed anything that any of our party had anticipated, but the 
greatest of all was still to come. We were due at the Black Canon of 
the Gunnison at midnight, and a goodly number of us determined not 
to retire until we had seen it. Ned Hanlon, Manning, Earle and my- 
self clung to the hand-rails of the rear platform of our sleeper, and 
gazed in silence at the wonders of this world-famed chasm as they were 
revealed to us by the ruddy glare of the furnace and the light of the 
stars which peered through the crevices of the giant rocks. Rounding 
a curve suddenly, we came upon the great Currecanti Needle, a slen- 
der spire of rock that rises from the centre of the canon until its point 



44 



THE GREAT NEEDLE. 



seems to touch the very stars above. 



Winding past its base our train 
shot into a narrow 
?3 crevice, and the great 
needle disappeared 
as suddenly as it had 
burst upon our view. 
Impressive i n the 
depth of its soHtude, 
overpowering in its 
grandeur, and ter- 
rible in its sugges- 
tions as to the causes 
which produced it, 
the Black Canon of 
the Gunnison is 
nost appropriately 
named. 

It was nearly three 
o'clock when we left 
the canon, but no 
one of those who re- 
mained awake to 
Avitness its grand 
scenery will ever re- 
gret the sleep they 
lost. We awoke for 
1 ireakfast at Green 
river, and after leav- 
ing that point en- 
tered the mountains 
^^^of Utah. All day 
long our train wound 
round the base of big 
mud - colored hills, 
stopping occasion- 
ally at little settlements, the inhabitants of which were Indians, China- 




CURRECANTI NEEDLE. 



IN THE MORMON STRONGHOLD. 45 

men and rough-looking- frontiersmen. How they hve or what they Hve 
upon, the passing traveler cannot imagine. On the evening of the 30th 
we reached Salt Lake City, and that night occupied beds for the first 
time since we left Chicago. Captain Fogarty, Tom Daly, Tom Brown, 
Mart Sullivan, Billy Earle, John Healy, Leslie Robison and myself 
were up bright and early the following morning, for a horseback ride 
through the environs of the Mormon stronghold, and, as our horses 
were fiery and eager to go, we did some tall riding through the pictur- 
esque country, finally drawing rein before the Parade Ground at Fort 
Douglas, in time to witness the dress parade of four companies of 
troops. After watching their evolutions for a while, we rode through 
the officers' quarters, and admired the pretty wives and daughters of 
Uncle Sam's soldiers as they sat upon the balconies of their residences, 
becomingly attired and enjoying the fresh breeze from the mountains. 
The view of the valley in which lies the city is a grand one from this 
point. 

We found a good ball park at Salt Lake City, but a heavy storm 
interrupted our first game, and rendered the grounds unfit for our 
second. This prevented any model exhibitions of ball-playing, although 
the conditions under which we played were productive of any amount 
of fun for the spectators. Some twelve hundred people attended the 
first game. But a drenching rain stopped play in the first half of the 
fifth inning, just as All-America was beginning to bat the cover off the 
ball. It rained all night, and the mud in the streets and on the runways 
of the ball park was very soft and affectionate. Indeed, the conditions 
could not have been more antagonistic to good ball-playing. The out- 
field was in places covered with water, and the black muck on the run- 
ways was only hidden by two or three inches of sawdust which covered 
it ; yet in spite of all, the game was full of interesting situations, and 
afforded two hours of good sport. Wood, Van Haltren, Manning and 
Ward did some beautiful infield work, and the All-America team entire 
had their batting clothes on from the time the grame beg-an. The black 
mud on the runways gradually worked itself up through the sawdust, 
and soon had our boys looking like a lot of street laborers in rainy 
weather. The white traveling suits of the All-Americas suffered sadly 
from the desperate base-sliding of their owners, while Tom Daly's swim- 



46 



"FlaSA'Y BASE BALL PEOPLE." 



ming feat in centre field caused the crowd to double up with fits of 
laughter. It was a good game from the start to the finish, with as much 
kicking and warm rivalry as anybody could ask for, notwithstanding 
that the score was a jug-handled one in favor of the All-Americas. 

We left Salt Lake the same evening, and as we assembled in the 
rotunda of the hotel for supper, fully two hundred people were present 
to shake hands with our part)- and bid them farewell, the boys having 
made scores of friends and admirers, notwithstanding their brief stay in 
the Mormon stronghold. While waiting for departure time, Clarence 
Duvall entertained the assemblage by his "baton performance and the 
plantation walk-around," John Healy and Fred Pfeffer 
acting as his orchestra. Salt Lake City had never 
witnessed a similar performance, and a storm of ap- 
plause, together Avith a handful of silver, rewarded the 
Mascot's efforts. We got away from the Walker 
House in a bio- omnibus that was lon^ enoug-h to 
accommodate our entire combination of thirty-five 
people, and as we rolled through the streets to the 
depot, shortly after nightfall, we sang the favorite 
chorus of " Old Silver :" — 

" Hide away ; hide away ; 
Dere is no use to try to hide away. 
Get your baggage on de deck, 
Don't forget to get your check ; 
For dere's no use to try to hide away." 

THE MASCOT IN REPOSE. 

And as we drew up to the station platform, Jim 
Fogarty, with a preliminary call of three cheers for Salt Lake City and 
the people in it, led the party in an ear-splitting yell that startled a 
sleeping baggage-man off his truck, and caused an old lady to drop her 
band-boxes and make for the station, screaming " Help !" "Police!" at 
every jump, while the station-master for the moment seriously contem- 
plated turning in the fire alarm. 

" It is only them consarned, frisky baseball people," yelled a hackman, 
and then everybody but the old lady laughed. Our train was twenty 
minutes late, and during this interim Clarence danced for us, and some- 
body getting out the banjos and mandolins with which our party was 




MISCHIEF-MAKERS AT WORK. 



47 



supplied, we soon had the populace of the vicinity running to the 
station to see "the minstrel company that had just come to town," as 
a small boy put it. Of course, the mischief makers of the party were 
not idle long. John Healy stood apart from his companions with his 

grip at his feet, gazing at the top' 
of a distant mountain and seem- 
ingly absorbed in reflection, pos- 
sibly of home, or of the thousands 




healy's day-dreams rudely broken. 



behind him and dropped upon all 
fours. Just then Fogarty slapped 
the big pitcher vigorously on the 

shoulder, and John's heels went up in the air as he did a back somer- 
sault over Daly's back. John's training had not been neglected, how- 
ever, and one of his long legs flew out in time to catch Tom under the 
coat tails, sending him sprawling into the crowd. 



48 THROUGH PRAIRIE LANDS. 

At Ogden we found two special sleepers awaiting us, and departed at 
midnight for San Francisco. The following day seemed an unusually long 
one to every member of our party, for the three thousand miles which 
we had arranged to cover between Chicago and the Pacific slope was 
becoming just a bit tiresome. AH day long we rolled over the prairie 
lands of Utah and Nevada, the great mountains looming up in the hori- 
zon, twent}^ and even thirty miles away. Looking from the windows 
of our cars we saw droves of big jack-rabbits jump from their hiding- 
places and cut off across the prairies. Now and then a gaunt wolf or 
coyote would skulk from beneath a sage bush and draw sullenly away 
from the train. We caught sight of one pack of half a dozen of these 
brutes during the afternoon. Away they ran for a litde distance, and 
then sat with their lips turned back from their fangs, snarling at our 
train for having disturbed them. Great cattle ranches stretched away 
up the broad valleys through which we were passing, and thousands of 
sleek-looking animals browsed upon the grasses which grew so luxuri- 
antly along the streams which crossed the meadows. It was, indeed, 
a grand section, and until one has traveled it he can form no concep- 
tion of how broad, and rich, and unequaled by those of any other in the 
world, are the great pasture-lands of the United States. 

Upon the following morning, that of November 3d, we found upon 
awakening that we had entered a section of country vastly different from 
that over which we had ridden during the preceding day. The views 
were not of barren rocks and mud-colored hills, like those in Utah, nor 
like the broad valley lands of Nevada, but of lofty mountains rich in 
verdure ; and, as we proceeded, the elevations widened into beautiful 
valleys and the mountains gave way to lovely hills adorned with thou- 
sands of green trees. As we neared Sacramento we seemed to be in 
a veritable Garden of Eden. We partook of a delightful breakfast at 
Sacramento, at which the tables were loaded with rosy apples, delicious 
pears, yellow and red streaked peaches, and great bunches of grapes, 
all the product of that rich fruit-producing district. We had been 
expected by the baseball enthusiasts of the city, and there was quite a 
crowd at the depot. The cheers they sent up as we pulled out of the 
big station twenty minutes later reminded us of our departure from 
Denver and Chicago. 



A HEARTY WELCOME. ^g 

Beyond the city, we rolled through the rich valley of the Sacramento, 
through prosperous fruit ranges, and past grape vineyards that stretched 
away as far as the eye could reach, until our train pulled up at the little 
station of Suisun, thirty miles from San Francisco. Here a pleasant 
surprise had been prepared for us. Manager Hart, together with Frank 
Lincoln and Fred Carroll, had gone on to " Frisco " in advance of the 
party from Salt Lake City, and together with a score of Pacific coast base- 
ball managers, and representatives of the entire San Francisco Press, had 
come out to bid us welcome. The first intimation of their presence was 
a chorus of cheers that went up as our train stopped, followed by a 
scurrying of feet across the station platform and the jarring of our 
sleepers as the delegation sprang upon them. Among those who had 
come to welcome us in addition to Hart, Carroll and Lincoln, were Tom 
Mackay, the ubiquitous and widely known passenger-man of the Bur- 
lington ; Messrs. D. D. Robinson and J. F. Moran, of the Greenwood and 
Moran Club ; Eugene Vancourt, Al Foreman, and Messrs. Dressier, 
Batchelder, Cory, Crawford and Bannett, representing the San Francisco 
Press ; together with Managers Harris and Finn, all good fellows, and 
prominent representatives of the newspaper and baseball fraternity of 
California. At Port Costa the following telegram was handed Presi- 
dent Spalding : — 

" San Francisco, November 3d, 1888. 
"A. G. Spalding, of Spalding's Australian Baseball Tour: 

" We welcome you to our city and to the Baldwin Hotel. You will find carriages waiting 
at the foot of Market street. E. J. Baldwin." 

At Oakland we took the Steamer which bore us across San Francisco 
Bay to the great metropolis of the Pacific coast. We found carriages in 
waiting, and fifteen minutes after we landed we were quartered in our 
rooms at the Baldwin Hotel, but not to rest. Manager Hart had noti- 
fied half a dozen of us while on the Steamer to don our dress suits im- 
mediately upon our arrival at the hotel. At six o'clock, that number of 
the party, in evening dress, had assembled in the rotunda, where 
we found awaiting us representatives of the San Francisco Press 
and the California Baseball League. They escorted us to " Mar- 
chand's," where we partook of a dainty supper, topped off with most 
delicious California wines. Those present were Mr. Spalding, Captain 
4 



50 ^ SHORT FORTNIGHT. 

Anson, Captain Ward, Frank Lincoln, Newton MacMillin, Manager 
Jim Hart, Managers Harrison, Robinson and Finn, Messrs. Cory, 
Dressier, Crawford, Bannett and myself. Lincoln's wit and the base- 
ball reminiscences of Jim Hart and Mr. Spalding shortened the time 
between the courses most delightfully, and at 8.30 we arose from the 
table, having had our first experience of San Francisco hospitality. 

Repairing to the Baldwin Theatre we joined the balance of the Chi- 
cago and All-America teams, in full evening costume, and occupied the 
two proscenium boxes at the performance of "The Corsair." It is need- 
less to say that the party were objects of interest to the audience. We 
reached San Francisco on the evening of the great parade of the Repub- 
licans of California, and the city was fairly alive with people. Market 
street was a long line of colored fire and pyrotechnics, while cheers 
ascended in such volume as to almost deafen one. The entire populace 
of the city and of all California seemed to have joined in the demonstra- 
tion, and it was well on toward morning before even honest people 
went to bed. Were the members of our party among the revellers ? 
Well, in all probability most of them could have been found very near 
the centre of the city, as long as the glare of the parade, the crowds 
and the handshaking of friends kept them there. With our arrival at 
San Francisco, most of us felt that the first stage of our trip was 
completed. Here we were to stop for two weeks before starting on our 
voyage, so we felt that we were at home for a time, at least. " Two 
weeks," did I say? Never before did time pass so rapidly to any of us, 
and when the day came for final adieus, and the big steamer cast off" her 
cables and started upon her journey of 7200 miles, there was not a man 
among us who would not gladly have extended his stay indefinitely. 

In no section of the United States possessing the same population to 
the square mile are Baseball enthusiasts more numerous than at San 
Francisco. They can play ball there all the year round, and their cham- 
pionship season begins when the seasons of the League and Association 
end. They have turned out some of the greatest ball-playing talent in 
America to-day, such men as Fogarty, Brown, Van Haltren, Brown, 
of New York,^and others of equal ability and reputation, having come 
from the Pacific slope to don the uniforms of the great Eastern Clubs. 
In San Francisco they like close scores. They want no errors, and they 



THE INITIAL GAME. 



5' 



would rather see a sixteen innings game than shake hands with the 
President. The clubs of their own League, through several seasons 
past, have put up a wonderful number of closely-contested games, in 
which it has been the exception that the combined runs of both teams 
in a game has exceeded eight or nine in number. They seem to gauge 
a player in California rather by his ability to stop runs than to get them. 
Yet, at the time of our visit to California, many of the most brilliant, 
skillful, and difficult-fielding players of the ball field were comparatively 
unknown in California. Indeed, it was not until Jim Hart took the 
Louisville Team there, in 1885, that Californians were enabled to under- 
stand just what degree of perfection in team-work and fielding a ball 
team could attain. When the Australian party visited the coast, the 
infield work of Williamson, Pfeffer, Ward, Burns, and Anson was a 
revelation to most Californians. 

Something over 13,000 people turned out at the Haight street 
grounds to witness our initial game in San Francisco, and it has never 
ceased to be one of the regrets of the tour that the game did not prove 
a contest, or even a creditable exhibition. The day was perfect, and 
thousands lined the streets through which our carriages passed in- 
parade on their way to the grounds. Cheer after cheer welcomed the 
players as the gates of the grounds were thrown open and the carriages, 
filed upon the field. The great crowd arose to its feet and shouted 
itself hoarse as the band escorted first the All- Americas and then the 
Chicagos on to the grounds. The practice work of both teams was; 
brilliant, and had the game been anywhere near as good, the expectant 
and good-natured crowd would have been entirely satisfied. The boys, 
however, were tired out with travel and the late hours they could hardly 
have avoided keeping after their arrival in San Francisco. In addition, 
every one of them was over-anxious to put up a strong game of ball,, 
and their over-anxiety made them the more nervous as the game pro- 
gressed. I never saw men work harder or try more determinedly Xo 
play good ball; but it was of no use. Anson himself "fell down" at 
first before two innings had passed. Baldwin, who had pitched such a 
grand game at Denver, seemed to have little or no command of the 
ball, and Chicago's stone-wall infield seemed unable to field a little bit. 
The crowd was disappointed but good-natured, and generously ap- 



52 ANSON AS UMPIRE. 

plauded the occasional bits of good fielding that shone through the long 
series of errors. As for the players themselves, I do not think I ever 
saw a more completely disappointed lot of men. Had each of them 
been out a hundred-dollar note as the result of the day's play, they 
could not have felt more dissatisfied ; but they sensibly put a bright face 
upon the situation and determined to show Californians what kind of a 
game they could put up before they left. 

The second day after, the All-Americas faced the Greenwood and 
Moran team at the Haisjht street gfrounds and suffered a crushing de- 
feat. Crane was unsteady in his delivery, and although his support 
worked hard, it made errors at critical points, while the local batsmen 
rarely failed to get in a hit at the proper time. Unfortunately for the 
All-Americas, Anson acted as umpire and gave Captain Ward's men 
a long way the worst of it in most of his decisions. But for this fact the 
score would undoubtedly have been less one-sided. 

Two days later the All-Americas met the Pioneers and John Healy 
pitched. It would undoubtedly have been a winning game but for the 
poor fielding support accorded him. A total of eleven errors, most of 
them costly, were divided up among Hanlon, Crane, Manning, Van 
Haltren, Wood and Fogarty. The absence of Ward, who had yielded 
to an inclination to run up the bay for a day's quail shooting, made a 
big hole in All-America's infield, and was, no doubt, responsible to a 
_great degree for the poor work that resulted. Purcell pitched a fine 
o^ame for the Pioneers, and to his work more than to anything else was 
due the victory which 3000 spectators applauded heartily at the end of 
the ninth inning. Meantime Anson's men had gone down to Stockton, 
and while the All-Americas were losing- a game in San Francisco, were 
engaged in one of the prettiest games of the tour with the Stocktons. 
Tener did some pretty work in the points for Chicago, Stockton's bats- 
men failing to get more than two clean hits off Tener's delivery. It 
was too dark at the end of the ninth inning to play off the tie, which 
stood two and two, and the game was consequently never won. 

Stockton came up to San Francisco the following day, November 9th, 
to see what it could do against the All-Americas, and the latter, stung 
by two successive defeats at the hands of local California teams, turned 
upon the champions and gave them such a beating as doubdess left a 



TEACHING THE CALIFORNIA CHAMPIONS. 53 

lasting- impression of the fielding and batting abilities of Ward's team. 
Ward himself covered short and his presence made a wonderful differ- 
ence. The Stocktons pitched Baker, who at that time was one of the 
promising pitchers of the coast, and he was simply pounded all over the 
field. The game was certainly a beautiful exhibition of the strong points. 
in baseball. Crane pitched a great game, and little Earle caught him in 
a style that won him many hearty bursts of applause. Hanlon covered 
third, while Van Haltren fielded centre, and smoother team-work than 
that done by the entire combination is not often seen. The base run- 
ning was particularly good. Just how hard the boys worked, and how 
determined they were to make the Stocktons feel their power, can be 
seen by reference to the score, which shows a total of 17 stolen bases, 
of which 7 were taken by Fogarty alone. In a word, All-America taught 
the Californian champions a good deal that they did not before know 
about the game, and after that, neither the Stocktons nor the Pioneers 
would meet either the All-America or the Chicago teams during our 
stay. On November loth the crack Haverlys had a try at Anson's 
men and were well beaten in a pretty contest. Incell, the star pitcher of 
the coast, and one whom many of the Eastern clubs were after at that 
time, filled the box for the Californians and pitched a good game, 
although his support was weak. The Californians, on the other hand, 
could not hit Baldwin, and the big lead Chicago had secured in the 
third inninof was not thereafter broken. 

The work of the visiting- teams ao-ainst the local talent had served to 
offset the rather unfavorable impression created by the character of our ■ 
first game in San Francisco, and there were nearly 7000 people present 
a week later, when, on a beautiful day, the Chicago and All-America 
teams met upon the Haight street grounds for their second game, which, 
while not without a dash of poor work here and there, was marked by 
fielding of a character that I have never seen surpassed for brilliancy. 
Tener and Van Haltren were the opposing pitchers, and each pitched 
effectively, although Van Haltren's in-field support was at times faulty, 
Chicago's in-field, however, at no time during its entire existence ever 
put up such a wonderful fielding game, and the enthusiasm of the crowd 
knew no bounds at half a dozen stages of the contest. 

The following week the teams went to Los Angeles, where, upon 



-^ IN CHINATOWN. 

November 14th and 15th, they played two games in the presence of 
several thousand Southern Californians. All-America played all around 
Anson's men in both grames, whitewashinor them in the first g-ame, with 
Healy and Earle in the box and Baldwin and Daly as the opposing bat 
ter)', and beating them by a score of 7 to 4 in the second game, with 
Crane and Earle in the points against Tener and Daly for Chicago. 
The teams returned to San Francisco on Friday morning, the i6th. 
It was intended that a farewell game should be played the following day, 
on the eve of our departure for Australia. The elements decided other- 
wise, however, and a steady rain killed all plans for a farewell contest. 
Our steamer, which was to have sailed Saturday afternoon, was delayed 
twent)--four hours by the non-arrival of the Eastern mails, however, 
and we did not get away, in consequence, until the afternoon of Sunday, 
November iSth. 

It must not be inferred from this account of our stay in California 
that we did nothing but play ball. On the contrary, the bo)-s were 
simply overwhelmed with attentions from so many different quarters, 
that it became impossible to accept all the invitations extended, or to find 
time for sleep between the many pleasant entertainments arranged for 
us. The little supper which some of us had enjoyed at Marchand's 
on the night of our arrival, was simply a forerunner of the long line of 
banquets, dinner parties, receptions and theatre parties which extended 
over the entire period of our stay. Nearly every member of our part}' 
managed to take a tour through the Chinese quarters, and Bob Pettit, 
Captain Anson, Tom Daly and myself enjoyed not a few delightful rides 
on horseback around the picturesque environs of the city. 

The remarkable sights to be seen in Chinatown proved so attractive 
that many of our part)' made two, and some of them three, visits among 
these Children of the Orient. I made the journey the second night 
after our arrival at San Francisco, in company with President Spalding, 
INIanager Robinson and President Mann of the California League, Man- 
ager Hart and Newton MacMillan, the Sun correspondent, our escort 
being Sergeant Burdsoll of the San Francisco Police Force, and I feel 
that I am quite safe in saying that no pen, however clever, could 
adequately depict the revolting, and yet fascinating, sights w^e saw. 
The illustrations of vice and crime prevalent in the Chinese quarters 



A WATCHFUL SENTINEL. 55 

of the city, which have appeared in our illustrated publications from 
time to time, have not been exaggerated — indeed, they have fallen far 
short of depicting the horror of :t. Chinatown is perhaps six blocks 
long by three wide, and it is steadily growing. ' The Celestials have 
crowded all the white people out of their district, and have their own 
government, their own mercantile houses, their own water works and 
their own courts ; and although they are under the City Authorities, to 
a great extent they live independently of the municipal laws. It is 
almost impossible to apprehend a criminal among them, and equally 
difficult to convict him when apprehended. They have established 
their gambling-houses within walls of impenetrable steel plate. The 
sentinel stands at the doorway, and in dangerous times gives signal, 
that they may shut out intruders. As we passed one of these houses 
Sergeant Burdsoll pointed out to me the picket on duty in front of the 
brilliantly-lighted passage which entered the building. 

"That fellow," said the Sergeant, "looks half asleep, doesn't he?" 

The Chinaman was leaning against the doorway, his hat pulled over 
Lis features and his hands tucked way under his blouse. 

" Yes," replied our party, " he certainly doesn't look as though he is 
attending to his post." 

" Well now, you just watch him," said the Sergeant, and pulling his 
hat over his eyes, he sauntered slowly across the street until he reached 
the curbstone, where he made a sudden dash for the doorway. The 
seemingly sleeping Celestial, however, started as though suddenly 
touched by an electric wire. He threw both hands across the door- 
way, barring the officer's progress, and at the same time uttered a 
peculiar cry. Ten feet beyond the doorway we could see the heavy 
steel-plated inner doors close with a bang, and almost at the same 
instant the outer doors came to with a crash, and the Chinese sentty 
was left standing upon the pavement in the presence of the officer. 
The Sergeant returned to us, and remarked, with a smile, that a China- 
man is never so watchful as when he appears to be asleep. " That 
fellow as he stood there," said the Sergeant, " was sweeping the street 
with his glance in both directions for half a block." 

" Can you not batter down their doors and make prisoners of them ?" 
I asked. 



56 CHINESE CUSTOMS. 

The officer smiled. "My dear sir," said he, "it -would talce three 
hours to enter these places, and when we got in, not a Chinaman would 
be inside. What would be the use of it, any way ? No power on earth 
can check the crime and vice that exist in these quarters to-day. I 
might have arrested that sentinel whom the closing of the doors left 
upon the sidewalk, but what good would it have done ? I could have 
brought him before a Police Court, and might have arraigned him upon 
the charge of resisting an officer, or of vagrancy, or upon some other 
convenient charge, but he would probably have been fined and let go ; 
and even though imprisoned, his fine would have been paid and he 
would have been let go, and even while he was imprisoned there would 
have been hundreds of Chinamen to take his place at the Gambling 
House door." 

The methods of living and the crowded conditions of the dwellings 
in the Chinese quarter are simply beyond the power of human con- 
ception until seen. Many a Chinaman, for instance, will lease a building 
four stories high and by deepening the foundations will make a six-story 
building of it. Then he will construct partitions in the rooms and 
hallways until he has secured accommodations for about four or six 
hundred Chinamen in a building which could not accommodate more 
than thirty or fort)- Americans comfortably. These apartments he rents 
to Chinamen for twenty-five or fifty cents a week. One room which we 
entered was eight by ten feet in dimensions, with a ceiling perhaps eight 
feet high, and in this room, reclining upon bunks arranged like the 
sections of a sleeping-car, were thirteen Chinamen. Their bunks are 
practically their rooms — their dwellings, in which they keep their personal 
effects, their clothing, their little tin bo.\ in which they cook their rice, 
their chop sticks, their slippers and their opium outfit, without which no 
Chinaman could exist. The streets of the entire district swarm with 
Mongolians, the only Caucasians to be seen being the officers of the 
law, or tourists like ourselves. Into foul-smelline lodofinof-houses, into 
opium joints thick with sickening vapors, down through underground 
passage ways, where it would be death for a white man to go alone, into 
Joss Houses, with their hideous idols, their burning tapers and their 
weird-sounding drums and tom-toms, into the din and through the 
fantastic surroundings of the Chinese Theatre, with hordes of 



WARM HOSPITALITY. ^7 

almond-eyed, villanous-looking, and at times murderous faces peering 
at us from every nook and corner, our litde party threaded its way. 
We grew dizzy from the overpowering odors, and were anxious to again 
breathe the air of a Christianized and civihzed community. No 
religion save idolatry is known in Chinatown ; virtue is unknown there. 
The people have brought the heathenish customs and horrible practices 
of their barbarous country with them to San Francisco, and cling to 
them with a tenacity that shows the hopelessnes of converting them to 
our views of life and religion and of their ever becoming desirable 
citizens. 

The attentions of which our party were the recipients did not, by any 
means, come from the baseball element alone, although to the officers 
of the California League we are indebted for much of the warm hospi- 
tality that made our stay in their city so pleasant. The journalists of San 
Francisco and the merchants were equally attentive and courteous. 
Mr. Waller Wallace, of the California Spirit of the Times, entertained 
President Spalding, Captain and Mrs. Anson, Mr. and Mrs. Ed Wil- 
liamson, Captain John M. Ward, Captain Hanlon, Newton MacMillan 
and myself in charming style, at his Oakland residence ; while the 
Press Club, on the evening of November 12th, entertained the Press 
representatives of our party, with President Spalding and Captains 
Ward and Anson, in a delightful entertainment and banquet at the 
Press Club rooms. Upon the following day a number of us were enter- 
tained at the Merchants' Club, by Mr. Frederick Stratton, the law part- 
ner of Ex-Congressman Miller, the Hon. Charles Alexander Bird, of 
the California State legislature, Mr. Al Evans, Secretary of the Bo- 
nanza and Consolidated California Mining Companies, and a number of 
merchants of high standing upon the coast. All seemed to be as familiar 
with baseball as they were with mining stocks, mercantile methods, 
briefs and depositions, or legislative affairs ; and a more congenial com- 
pany, capable of more thoroughly enjoying the many reminiscences and 
stories of old-time players, certainly never sat down to a two hours' 
dinner. 

On the evening of November 1 7th, the day prior to our departure 
for Australia, Mr. Spalding tendered a farewell banquet to the members 
of the San Francisco Press and California League at the Baldwin Hotel. 



58 SOME REMARKABLE DISHES. 

Covers were laid for seventy-five guests, among whom were many 
prominent, well-known citizens. The banquet hall and tables were 
magnificently decorated with designs in which baseball paraphernalia and 
implements were a prominent feature. Perhaps, the menu card, which was 
the result of Frank Lincoln's ingenuity, was among the most remarkable 
ever laid opposite a plate. On the inner side of the " Score Card," as 
Frank had designated his production, was printed the list of viands, 
headed with the timely injunction, " Play Ball." Among the courseswere 
"Eastern Oysters on the Home Run," " Green Turtle, a la Kangaroo," 
" Petit Pate, a la Spalding," " Asperges, a la Willow," " Petit Pois Fran- 
^aise, a la ' Over the Fence,' " " Stewed Terrapin, a la Ward," " Frisco 
Turkey, a la ' Foul,' " " Mashed Peaches, a la 'Soft Ball,"" "Baked Sweet 
Potatoes, a la 'Hot Grounder,'" "English Plum Pudding, a la ' Hard 
Hit,' " " Brandy, a la ' Hot Ball,' " and other equally remarkable dishes. 
The menu card was circular in form, its exterior representing the cover 
of a baseball. There were many delightful evenings spent before the 
tour of the American team was completed, but I am sure that none was 
more delightful than that of our farewell banquet at San Francisco. 

The speech-making was of an impromptu order, the remarks of the 
speakers being filled with baseball nuggets, happy sayings and humor- 
ous incidents. " Early California ball-players," by Judge Hunt, of the 
Superior Court, fairly bubbled with quiet humor and bristled with quaint 
allusion ; " The National League Champions — the New York Baseball 
Club," was responded to by ex-Senator James F. Grady, of New York, 
who paid a magnificent tribute to the great team that won the cham- 
pionship of 1 888. " The San Francisco Press," was treated by Mr. W. N. 
Hart, of the San Francisco Press Club. "The Good Ship 'Alameda,'" 
brought Captain Henry G. Morse to his feet and gave our party our 
first view of the good-hearted, clever commander of the steamer which 
carried us 7000 miles across the Pacific. " A. J. Spalding and the Aus- 
tralian Trip," was responded to by Mr. Samuel F. Shortridge : ''Old 
California." by Mr. Durkee ; "The Chicago Nine," by Captain Anson; 
" The All- Americas," by Captain Ward ; and " The Baseball Cricketers," 
by George Wright. In a happily worded address. President Spalding 
thanked the Press and the Baseball people of the Pacific coast for 
the magnificent reception tendered us, and for the warm hospitality 



THE "ALAMEDA." rg 

that we had not failed to find in every quarter since our arrival at 
San Francisco. 

On the afternoon of the day of our departure a number of the boys 
went down to the dock to inspect the "Alameda." She was by no means 
a large ship, but was neat and trim-looking-, perfectly equipped, and 
with room enough to accommodate 125 passengers. The decks were 
spacious, and in the warmer latitudes were to be protected from the 
sun's rays by an awning. A well-stocked library and saloon was located 
just above the dining-room, and forward and aft of this were the deck 
state-rooms, the most desirable upon the ship in tropical climates, also 
a big smoking- and card-room, where the boys congregated many an 
evening during the voyage or spent the lazy hours of the afternoon. 
Altogether, we were favorably impressed with our steamer and our 
captain, and despite our regret at leaving the hospitable shores of 
California, we were anxious for the novelty of starting upon our voyage 
to Australia. 

The day of our departure finally arrived, Sunday, November i8th, and 
it dawned gray and sullen, with the rain still descending in a generous 
shower. Toward noon, however, the clouds broke and we began to 
hope for fair weather. None of the boys breakfasted at an early hour, 
it being fully 11 a. m. before they began to show up in any numbers in 
the rotunda of the hotel. About noon, myself and my fellow corre- 
spondent, Newton MacMillan, or "Mac," as I shall hereafter refer to 
him, accompanied by several San Francisco journalists, entered a car- 
riage and drove to the steamer. The wharf-house and the steamer 
itself were crowded with friends of the tourists, and a chorus of shouts 
went up as our party of newspaper men emerged from our equipage. 
Not over eighty passengers had been booked for the voyage, but several 
hundred were upon the steamer's deck, friends of the departing tourists, 
and fully a thousand more crowded the wharf. At the rail, near the 
staging, stood Manager Jim Hart, Captain and Mrs. Anson and Ned 
Williamson and his wife, chatting with scores of friends, while President 
and Mrs. Spalding were the centre of another group near by. The 
boys leaned over the rail and chatted, and joked, and laughed their 
farewells with friends on the dock. All was noise and confusion up to 
two o'clock, the hour at which the steamer was to sail, when the last 



6o OFF FOR HONOLULU. 

call for visitors to leave the deck was given. Shortly after that hour 
Captain INIorse took his post at the starboard end of " the bridge," his 
big figure set off to advantage by his gold-laced uniform of navy blue, 
and raised his hand to the sailors on the gang-plank, and to those who 
stood by the steamer's moorings on the dock. There was breathless 
silence on board, the quick rattling of the chains, the splashes of the 
cables as they fell into the water, the thud of the gang-plank as it 
dropped on the deck, and then the "Alameda " began to move slowly 
from the dock. Every passenger pressed toward the rail, and cheer 
after cheer went up from the deck, to be answered by those on the 
wharf. 

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU. 

The big ship swung slowly out into the bay, and within a few minutes 
all we could distinguish of our friends on the dock was a dimly outlined 
agrorreeation, and now and then a flutter of a white handkerchief Pres- 
entl)' the ship headed for the Golden Gate and we were off upon our 
tour of the World. Ah, it was delightfully invigorating — the motion of 
the ship, the refreshing air that came from the headlands and rushed 
through the rigging as she glided rapidly over the smooth surface 
of the Bay, past the shipping, and around the peninsula upon which 
San Francisco is located, our part)' still lingering at the larboard-rail, 
loath to relinquish their gaze upon their country's shores. Asweneared 
the bar the ocean swell became perceptible ; and when we passed the 
bluffs that form the Golden Gate, and steamed out upon the bosom of 
oldOcean itself the "Alameda " began to rise and fall with the long swell 
that characterizes the Pacific from coast to coast. The sun was shining 
when we left the dock, but the weather was erratic, and before we were 
fairly out of sight of the coast the land was hidden by a fog which settled 
around our ship and rendered necessary the frequent sounding of the 
whistle. Some ten miles out we stopped to let off our pilot, and then 
proceeded on our journey, bound for Honolulu, a distance of 2 loo miles. 

In addition to our own part}', which numbered thirty-five, there were 
perhaps twenty-five others. Among the most conspicuous of these was 
a big, broad-shouldered, dark-complexioned man, who looked as though 
he would be a perfect terror in a " free for all." This was Prof William 
Miller, the wrestler, whose name is known in professional circles and 



"CALCUTTA FOOL." 5, 

among lovers of athletics all over the world. He and his wife were 
bound for Melbourne. A somewhat effeminate, sandy-haired young 
man, with a weak-looking red moustache and still weaker-looking eyes, 
was known to our party during the first week of our voyage as Sir 
James Willoughby. He affected an English accent, and let It be quietly 
understood about the ship that he was simply out for " a bit of a tour," 
and expected to return some time during the course of a year or two, 
by way of India and Europe, to England. He was very much addicted to 
champagne and cigarettes, and before the trip was over afforded us 
considerable amusement. A tall, loose-jointed, awkward-looking man, 
with a gray beard and bronzed complexion, and with an eye that seemed 
to look through you when it looked at you, was Major-General Strange, 
of the English army. He had for years been quartered in India, and had 
taken part in that most memorable of the world's revolts, the Sepoy 
Insurrection. Frank Marian, and his trim-looking wife, with their over- 
precocious baby, were a pair of American light comedians upon their 
way to fill their first engagement in Sydney. Both Marian and his wife 
were accomplished banjoists and guitarists, and their ability as musicians 
contributed much to our entertainment and enjoyment. 

Colonel J. M. House and a Mr. Turner, stock-yard men of Chicago, 
were both hale, hearty, jolly fellows, a little beyond the prime of life, 
and were taking a trip to Australia for business and pleasure. House 
was really a good fellow, and did much to afford that diversion and 
excitement so much needed and so much appreciated by the voyager. 
Before we had been out many days he instituted the old game of " Cal- 
cutta Pool," in which we all took a warm interest until the winning 
coterie narrowed down to so small a number that the " lambs " of the 
party got tired of the game and drew out. " Calcutta Pool " is simply 
the selling of auction pools upon the distance traveled by the steamer 
for twenty-four hours, ending with noon on the day in question. For 
instance, fifty tickets consecutively numbered from 291 to 340, this 
being the probable minimum and maximum of the ship's record, are 
issued and distributed to as many holders, in return for what is practi- 
cally an entrance fee, at ^i.oo each. The tickets are then put up at 
auction and change hands according to the degree of confidence felt by 
the respective bidders in their numbers. If a man held 302, for instance, 



62 THE DAILY PRACTICE. 

and was convinced that the ship would sail 310, he would sell to some 
one who wanted 302, and himself bid for the latter number. The auction 
is, therefore, likely to increase the pool of $50.00 to ;^20o.oo, or even 
$300.00. Our first pool, with an entrance fee of 50 cts., was in the 
nature of an experiment, and was consequently a small one, aggregat- 
ing $105.00; $45.00 of which went to the holder of ticket 307 ; $30.00 
going as a second prize to the holder of ticket 302, and an equal amount' 
going as a third prize to the holder of ticket 312. The numbers of the 
tickets 302 and 3 1 2, the second and third prizes, being five above and 
five below the number of the first prize. The pools were sold every 
morning after breakfast, and it was great sport until the boys began to 
be too much in earnest over it, when for fear of unpleasant consequences 
we mutually decided to drop the practice. 

It took^our party some time to become accustomed to the sailors' 
method of dividing the twelve hours of the- day, and of being able to 
distinguish the hour by the number of bells which were sounded regu- 
larly amidship every half-hour. To the sailor the twelve hours are 
divided into three watches, namely: from noon to four o'clock, from four 
o'clock to eight o'clock, and from eight o'clock until midnight. At 1 2.30 
p. M., half an hour after the noon hour, the ship's bell rings once ; at 
I p. M. it rings twice, at 1.30 P. M. it rings three times and at 2 p. m. it 
sounds four times; at 4 p. m. it rings eight bells, this being the greatest 
number. Then it begins over again, ringing one bell for 4.30 p. m., 
and continuing every half-hour until it rings eight bells at eight o'clock, 
after which it begins at one bell again and increases up to eight bells at 
midnight. Our party were quite startled the second afternoon out from 
San Francisco, when at three o'clock the ship's bell began a horrible 
clanging, and we saw a lot of miscellaneously clad seamen running up 
from the ship's steerage and galleys, springing upon the top of the 
cabins and boiler rooms, where they quickly unrolled the reels of hose 
and attached them to the ship's hydrants, while a score or more of men 
stood by the life buoys and the long rows of water buckets which stood 
near the deck. The performance caused more than one pale cheek 
among the passengers not accustomed to sea-voyaging ; but we after- 
ward took a great interest in the performance, which we found, upon 
inquiry, to be the daily fire-practice of the ship's crew. 



THE BETTING CRAZE. 63 

It requires just about a week to make the journey from San Francisco 
to the Sandwich Islands, and to quote a much traveled English gentle- 
man whom I met upon the voyage, it is perhaps the most delightful sea- 
journey, in every way, that one can take. The great ocean, as indicated 
by its name, was as quiet and peaceful during those days in November, 
when our party crossed it, as an inland lake. The sun shone down upon 
us from a cloudless sky. The salt air was pure and healthful. The 
breezes that came to us from the spice groves and sugar plantations 
upon the Sandwich Islands, were warm and gentle enough to remind us 
of a June day at home. The surroundings and conditions of our new 
life upon shipboard were just novel enough to be delightful ; and 
in looking back over our journey around the globe, I can recall no part 
of it that was pleasanter than those days upon the Pacific. 

An ocean steamship is a world in itself, wholly apart from the rest of 
the world, and to the space within the limits of its hull must the voyager 
look for all in the way of comfort, enjoyment, entertainment and 
diversion. After the first four days the novelty of ocean travel is gone, 
and one grows a little tired, perhaps, of looking out over the rollings 
waters. His mind then seizes upon everything and anything that will 
relieve the monotony. It was so with our party. The fondness for games 
of chance, of all kinds that ingenious brains have hit upon, took pos- 
session of the "Alameda's" passengers before we were three days outof 
San Francisco. After that, it was ten to one that any man who made 
an offer of a bet within hearing of one or more of his fellow passengers, 
would not escape without having his bet booked. We bet upon every- 
thing and anything — water, wind, the kind of soup we would have for 
dinner, the last man to leave the table, and no one knows what 
not. As an illustration of the betting craze, the following instance 
is a good one : In the card-room, one morning, Fogarty cried out, 
" Twenty-five to one that the ship does not go down before we reach 
Honolulu." 

"I will take you," said Captain Anson, plunging his hand into his 
pocket, and then looking foolish as he realized what he was about to 
bet upon. 

No more interesting event can occur at sea than the meeting of 
another vessel. The first instance of the kind that our party experi- 



64 A FORTUXATE MEETING. 

enced occurred upon our fifth day out. Ed Crane, Tom Brown, 
Fogarty, Daly, John Ward and myself were seated on deck near the 
saloon, about eleven o'clock that evening, when the entire ship and the 
surrounding waters were suddenly illuminated by a powerful calcium 
liglit on the top of the wheel house. We leaped from our chairs and 
went forward to find that we were signaling the steamer bound from 
Honolulu to San Francisco. She had left America before the Presiden- 
tial election had taken place and so knew nothing whatever of its result, 
as the Hawaiian Islands have no cable connection of any kind. The 
signal agreed upon was one rocket in case of Harrison's success and 
two in case of his defeat. Two miles of ocean rolled between the two 
ships, but we could clearly discern the lights and hull of the "Australia" 
in the bright moonlight that flooded the ocean. The mate brought a 
bi^ rocket from the wheel house, leaned it ag-ainst the rail and touched it 
off There was a flash of light, a downward shooting of yellow fire, and 
the great rocket ascended into the air, leaving a fiery trail across the sky, 
until it burst into a hundred colored stars. There is something wonder- 
fully impressive in signaling a vessel at sea — a sort of red letter event 
in the voyage, made all the more remarkable by surrounding conditions. 
The "Australia's " lights gleamed over the waters for perhaps twenty 
minutes, during which time beautiful rockets crossed the heavens with 
as many lines of light in answer to our signal, and then the ship and 
her lights vanished from our sio-ht. 

Before leaving San Francisco, President Spalding was fortunate 
enough to meet with the English Agent at Liverpool, of the Chicago, 
Burlington and Ouincy railroad, over whose line we had traveled from 
Chicago to Denver. The result of this meeting was a lengthy discus- 
sion between the Englishman, Mr. S. S. Parry, and Mr. Spalding as to 
the advisability of our party's returning by way of Europe. The out- 
come of this discussion was an arrangement between Mr. Parry and 
Mr. Spalding, by which, upon his return to Liverpool, Parry would visit 
such European points as Mr. Spalding was desirous of playing games 
at, and cable the result of his investigations to us at Australia. If he 
found that indications were favorable to our reception in London, and 
throughout Great Britain, in which country' Mr. Spalding was most 
desirous of giving e.xhibitions of the American National Game, Mr. 



ROUTES DISCUSSED. ge 

Parry was to wire us to that effect, and Mr. Spalding would then deter- 
mine upon a future course of action. 

To return by way of Europe would necessitate the expenditure of 
thousands of dollars for transportation through a section in which little 
or no interest would be felt in Athletics. Yet Mr. Spalding did not know 
but that the expenditure would be a wise one from a business standpoint. 
The press correspondents had been taken into his confidence and given 
his views before leaving San Francisco, and Parry departed for New 
York and England about the same time thai our party left for Australia. 
By mutual arrangement the papers represented by the special corres- 
pondents of our party were placed in possession of all the details of 
Mr. Spalding's plans, with the understanding that they were to be pub- 
lished on the Sunday following our departure from America ; and no 
member of our party save the correspondents, Mr. Spalding himself, 
and Captain Anson, were apprised of our possible return by another 
route. After we were upon the high seas, however, the matter was 
allowed to leak out, with a view of learning how the members themselves 
felt upon the subject. The mere mention of such a possibility aroused 
much enthusiasm and during the balance of the voyage, and up to the 
time when it was finally decided, in Melbourne, probable routes were 
discussed with the pleasantest anticipations, and everything descriptive 
of the countries and people of continental Europe, Asia and Africa, that 
the ship's library afforded, was eagerly read by the boys. 

Had we left San Francisco Saturday afternoon, the time set for our 
departure, we would have arrived in Honolulu the following Saturday 
morning. As it was, however, we were a day late, and Saturday, No- 
vember 24th, passed with our ship ploughing through the ocean, 1 50 
miles from the Hawaiian Islands at nightfall. We had been scheduled 
to play a game of ball in Hawaii, where there is a very large baseball 
element, and as Harry Simpson, our advance agent, had sailed from 
San Francisco a week ahead of us to prepare for our coming in the 
Sandwich Islands, we could, in fancy, picture the disappointment of the 
Hawaiians, to say nothing of the despair of Simpson and of the Recep- 
tion Committee which we doubted not had been appointed to receive 
us, when the day dawned, and grew, and finally passed away without 
our steamer's being sighted ; and it can be truly said that the disap- 
S 



66 SIGHTING LAND. 

pointment was not wholly confined to Hawaii. All the way across 
the Pacific our party had hoped, against hope, that the ship might make 
up the day we had lost and land us in the Sandwich Islands on time, 
after all. This, however, could not be done, and we were compelled to 
content ourselves with the inevitable. 

On the morning of the 25th of November, however, the lookout on 
the bridge of the steamer sighted land just as day began to break. 
Such an event on shipboard cannot long be kept from the passengers, 
and, while the morning was still gray, our party tumbled out of their 
berths and, having hastily arranged their toilets, came upon deck, anxious 
for the first glimpse of Honolulu. All that was to be seen at first was 
a faint shadow upon the distant horizon. As the "Alameda " continued 
on her way this began to assume more definiteness, and the rugged 
peaks of the mountains finally loomed up against the brightening sky. 
An hour later the bright green of the island's verdure became plainh' 
discernible, and then the cit)' of Honolulu itself, with its little fleet of 
shipping in the bay. Nowhere in the world, save perhaps in Ireland, 
have I seen foliage and vegetation of such a truly emerald hue as 
in the Sandwich Islands. The land is of volcanic orio-in, and the ruo-aed 
sides of the huge mountains, which rise directly out of the sea, and 
between which lie beautiful vallej-s rich in the luxuriant foliage and ver- 
dure of the tropics, are covered by a seemingly unbroken mantle of 
beautiful green that is as pleasant to the eye as the sight of land, of 
any kind, is always delightful to the voyager. As we neared Diamond 
Head the ship's engine slowed down, and by the time we had left the 
ocean's swell for the placid waters of the harbor, all the passengers 
were clustered at the bow, anxious to witness ■ ever}- incident of the 
landing. 

As we drew nearer, a ship's boat put off from the dock and soon 
reached our side. It brought to us Mr. Geoffrey, the steamship com- 
pany's agent, Harr)^ Simpson, JNIr. F. W. Whitney and Mr. George W. 
Smith, who is a cousin to President Spalding, a prominent citizen of 
Honolulu and chairman of the committee appointed to receive us. 
Three or four dark-skinned natives followed, each bearing a basket 
filled with wreaths of flowers called by the natives " Leis," and indica- 
tive of welcome and good will. One of these wreaths was placed about 



ON TERRA FIRMA. 67 

the neck of each member of our party. Meanwhile, the steamer's 
cables had been made fast, and our good ship was slowly drawn to her 
dock, while fully 2000 people looked upon us as though we were visit- 
ors from another world. In the centre of the assemblage stood the 
king's band, "The Royal Hawaiian," in uniforms of white duck, which 
contrasted admirably with their dark complexions, and, as a cheer went 
up from our party in response to that of the crowd upon the dock, they 
began to play "The Star-Spangled Banner," "Yankee Doodle," "The 
Girl I Left Behind Me," " Auld Lang Syne," and other airs familiar to 
American ears. 

It was a beautiful morning, the rising sun gilding the mountain sides 
and brightening the plantations along the shore, while it distinctly out- 
lined each individual of the rapidly increasing crowd upon the dock. The 
officers and crew of the U. S. Cruiser " Alert," which lay a few hundred 
yards away, were on deck and welcomed the " Alameda " with a hearty 
cheer as we drew alongside. Upon our steamer all was excitement and 
eager anticipation. The strains of the magnificent band on the shore,, 
the crowds of Americans and government officers attired in white duck, 
and white straw hats, the sight of land, and a strange land at that, after 
seven days of continuous ocean sailing, and the realization that we were 
expected and that great preparations had been made for our coming, 
had the effect of strangely impressing every one of our party. Cheer 
after cheer went up from the dock, and the boys responded, but in a 
spasmodic, discordant chorus, that told how little their voices were at 
command. They were big lusty fellows, with plenty of muscle and 
plenty of nerve, and eyes that probably had not seen tears since the 
days of their boyhood, but just at this time, when they wanted to cheer 
their loudest and to seem their happiest, did their voices choke and 
their eyes fill with tears that came unbidden. Only the voyager can 
appreciate the joy that our party felt at landing upon that beautiful 
morning- in Hawaii. 

The crowd on the dock was characteristic of Honolulu. The Hawaiians 
are dark-complexioned, straight-haired fellows, with regular features and 
bright, intelligent faces. Their attire of white linen is wonderfully becom- 
ing and added greatly to the attractiveness of the scene as it appeared 
from the deck of the steamer. Score upon score of pretty girls, for the 



68 



DOUBLY WELCOME. 



most part dressed in white, chatted with their escorts and critically sized 
up the stalwart fellows of our party. Our arrival at Honolulu was evi- 
dently an event of no small importance. Upon his arrival a week before 
Simpson had been cordially received, and the interval up to the time of 
our arrival had been one of pleasurable anticipation for nearly every 
resident of the city. Without telegraph communicadon of any kind, the 
arrival of a steamer in Hawaii is an event of interest, even upon ordi- 
nary occasions ; but a steamer was doubly welcome, upon which came 
a score of the greatest ball-players of America, who came, too, that they 
might give Hawaiiansan exhibition such as they had never before seen, 
of a game already a great favorite with them. 

We had been expected, as I have said, the day before, and on Satur- 
day morning all Honolulu was awake early to welcome us, and a big 
crowd assembled on the steamship docks to watch for the signal an- 
nouncing our arrival. The royal band was in waiting, and the govern- 
ment tug " Eleu " steamed up, ready to convey a party of prominent 
citizens as far as Diamond Head to welcome the coming s^uests. Ar- 
rangements had even been made to take the port physician with the 
party, so that he might board the steamer at the earliest possible mo- 
ment. As time passed and no steamer came, the disappointment may 
be imagined. The day was a fine sample of Hawaiian weather at that 
season, warm and beautifully clear. Business had been suspended and 
everybody was upon the street in holiday attire. The band upon the 
dock allayed impatience by playing for the crowd which watched and 
waited for the steamer all through the morning, and indeed we w^ere not 
given up until after three o'clock that afternoon. Not having arrived 
Saturday, it was, for some reason, imagined that we would not reach 
Honolulu before Monday, the 26th, and the programme intended for 
Saturday was, therefore, put aside in the mind of everybody until Mon- 
day morning. No such thing, as our arrival on Sunday morning, 
seemed to have occurred to anybody, and, consequently, when the ship 
was sighted at six o'clock, the town was startled by telephone messages 
which went over every wire in the city, to the effect that the " Alameda " 
was off Diamond Head. In half an hour the streets were astir with 
people, and again the band had assembled with the crowd. 

While our part)' had been shaking hands with the members of the 



ANXIOUSLY WAITING. go 

Reception Committee the steamer had reached her berth. The com- 
panion-ways were let down and our party, descending to the dock, 
entered carriages in waiting. We were driven rapidly through the pic- 
turesque streets, along which grew great palm trees, banana, and stately 
cocoanuts, bearing their clusters of heavy-shelled fruit, and then passed 
on, by the palace of King Kalakuau, to the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, which, 
standing in the centre of beautifully-laid-out grounds, rich in every 




THE "ALAMEDA" AT HER DOCK IN HONOLULU. 



variety of tree, plant, and shrub known to tropical climates, looked 
more like the palatial residence of some Sandwich Island or Cuban 
sugar king than anything else to which I can liken it. Scarcely had we 
taken seats at the breakfast-table in the great, airy dining-hall, its win- 
dows extending from floor to ceiling and opening on spacious balco- 
nies that surrounded the house, than the superb band which had 



70 



THE PRIDE OF HONOLULU. 



welcomed us at the dock beL,^an a concert at the music stand beneadi 
the windows. This band is the musical pride of Honolulu, and is main- 
tained at the expense of the Government. Under the leadership of 
Band iNIaster Berger it has attained a reputation that reaches far beyond 
the Hawaiian shores ; and what harmony it does make ! The Hawaiian 
Band has few equals, and no superiors, in America. Ah, it was delight- 
ful, that breakfast in Hawaii ! The tables filled with great bowls of lus- 
cious yellow oranges and juicy bananas, the moisture even yet upon 




THE ROYAL HAWAIIAN HAND AT THE MUSIC STAND. 



the broken stems, which had been taken from the parent branch not 
half an hour before ; the air laden with tire scent of tropical plants ; the 
grounds crowded with dark-skinned, dark-eyed Kanakas, in their cool- 
looking costumes of white duck and flannel ; the bright sunlight that 
warmed and beautified every growing thing around us, and the glorious 
music, all combined to make our experience more like a dream than a 
realit)'. Instead of the customary dish of oatmeal at breakfast, we were 



EATING "FOL" 



73 



served with the native dish of " Poi," a pink-colored mush, which, when 
eaten with rich Hawaiian cream and a covering of sugar, is very palata- 
ble. The native method of eating "poi" is novel. The forefinger is 
plunged into the dish, given a peculiar twist, and withdrawn with a 
mouthful of the food clinging to it ; the lips close over the morsel and 
finger, leaving the latter, when it is withdrawn, ready for another attack 
on the dish. 

After breakfast we adjourned to the balconies and again heard the 










L t, 




A NATIVE FAMILY ENJOYING ITS NATIONAL DISH — POI. 



sweet strains of the " Aloha Oe," or welcome song, that had greeted us 
at the dock. The prelude is played by the band, and then the musicians 
rest their instruments upon their arms, and sing with exquisite harmony 
their " Aloha Oe " in the melodious language of the Kanakas. Air after 
air was played for our amusement as we stood in the midst of our 
tropical surroundings enjoying every breath we breathed and every strain 
we heard. We were finally informed by the Chairman of the Recep- 



J 4 MEETING THE KING. 

tion Committee that His Majest)-, tlie King, had extended our part}' an 
invitation to call upon him at his palace, 1 1 o'clock being the desig- 
nated time. At that hour the Royal Band stepped from the music stand 
and formed in front of the hotel ; Clarence Duval, in full drum-major 
regalia, taking position at the head. President Spalding and United 
States Minister Merrill walked down the steps behind the band, and 
the Chicago and All-America teams, together with the other members 
of our party, followed in double file, the ladies accompanying in carriages. 
When all were in line, Clarence tossed his baton in the air. Band Master 
Berger raised his hand, and the band poured fourth a burst of harmony 
as the procession moved down the walk toward the gate of the grounds, 
and then along the avenue to the King's Palace. 

The grounds of the Royal Palace are a picture of tropical beaut}-. 
"We entered the great gateway and proceeded up the narrow avenue to 
the massive porticoed entrance of the palace, where the band stepped 
to one side and continued playing, as with hats off we ascended the 
steps, Minister Merrill and President Spalding leading. We were met 
on the balcony by members of the King's Cabinet and were shown by 
attendants to the blue room of the palace, where we deposited our 
hats and canes and awaited developments. Presently Minister Merrill 
took President Spalding's arm and requested the balance of the party to 
fall in line. INIrs. Spalding, escorted by Mr. George Smith, followed 
Messrs. Merrill and Spalding, and after them came Mr. and Mrs. Frank 
Lincoln, Captain and Mrs. Anson, Ned and Mrs. Williamson, Captains 
W'ard and Hanlon and the members of the Chicagro and All-America 
teams and Press representatives. We filed across the great hall, past 
lines of ancestral paintings that decorated the walls and throne room, the 
latter an imposing apartment, perhaps loo by 150 feet in extent. 
The King, attired in citizen's clothes, stood before his throne at the 
further end of the room, while a Gentleman of Honor, in court costume, 
Avas on either side. His Majesty extended his hand to Minister Merrill 
and President Spalding as the two approached, and then President 
Spalding introduced each passing guest as the line filed by, the King 
bowing in acknowledgment of each introduction. The fifty or more 
visitors had all been introduced and had assembled on the side of the 
room opposite the doorway as tlie King turned pleasantly to Messrs. 



THE SUNDA Y LA WS. 



75 



Spalding and Merrill and shook hands cordially with both. The three 
chatted and lauo-hed for five minutes long-er and then the American 
Minister and Mr. Spalding bowed and turned to the doorway, the 
entire party following them into the great hallway and saluting the King 
as they made their exit. Here we registered our names upon the court 
register, admired the royal paintings, viewed the spacious and splen- 
didly decorated dining hall and reception rooms, and finally, assembling 
upon the balcony, were escorted back to the hotel by the Royal Band, 
which again reentered the music stand and played airs from the popular 
operas and composers, while the members of our party sat upon the 
balconies of the hotel and enjoyed their cigars. 

Upon the return from the palace, the question of a game for that 
afternoon began to be eagerly discussed. It was well understood that 
the Hawaiian law, a statute of the old missionary times, prohibited all 
forms of Sunday amusements, and President Spalding, in answer to 
questions put him on our arrival, stated that it was his purpose to 
respect that law to the letter. About noon, however, the members of 
the Reception Committee drew up a petition to President Spalding 
requesting him to have the team play a game of ball that afternoon, 
and setting forth that the signers would bear any and all expensq 
incurred, of any kind whatever. Duplicates of this petition had been 
made and placed in the hotel and other public places, and within an 
hour half a dozen of them, bearing nearly a thousand names, were 
handed to President Spalding. He received them upon the balcony, 
glanced over them, and assured the eager assemblage that if a game 
could possibly be played in accordance with the municipal laws govern- 
ing such matters, their request would be complied with, as both of the 
teams were quite anxious to play. President Spalding and the members 
of the Reception Committee then entered a carriage and were driven to 
the residence of the Marshal, where the situation was talked over and 
it was learned, beyond all question, that any attempt to play a game on 
Sunday would be in violation of the local statutes. President Spalding, 
consequently, adhered to his first decision, though when the fact was 
made known at the hotel, the crowd gave vent to its disappointment in 
groans and howls, and declaring that they would make an issue on the 
Sunday question at the next election. 



76 



DISAPPOINTED KANAKAS. 



That there was to be no game was a disappointment, indeed, to the 
Hawaiians. They liad anticipated it for weeks before our arrival, and 
now that we were there, with twenty athletic-looking fellows fairly 
aching to play, the laws would not permit it. The situation certainly 
was exceedingly trying to the hot-headed Kanakas. They accepted it 

-^ good-naturedly, how- 
ever, and went to 
work in earnest to 
make our stay pleas- 
ant. Half a dozen 
park wagons and 
twice that number of 
saddle horses were 
placed at our dispo- 
sal, and every mem- 
ber of the party took 
advantage of the op- 
portunity afforded to 
do the city and its en- 
virons. Some of the 
boys accepted an invi- 
tation from the U. S. 
war ship " Alert " to 
visit the officers upon 
their vessel, and, from 
Fred Carroll's ac 
count, I imagine they 
must have spent a 
charming afternoon, 
all of the officers be- 
inor baseball enthusi- 
asts and admirers of the game's great exponents. Another party was 
taken charge of by one or two Honolulu gendemen, and witnessed a 
"Hula Hula," a native dance, by a dozen graceful Kanaka women. 
Others of the party rode out to the Pali, perhaps the most wonderful 
piece of coast mountain scenery in the world. 




SPLENDID COAST SCENERY ON THE PALI ROAD. 



THE MAUSOLEUM GROUNDS. 



77 



President and Mrs. Spalding and other members of the party entered 
a'wagonette and drove south along Nuuanu Avenue, through the beau- 
tiful Nuuanu Valley ; past the Royal Mausoleum where sleep the former 




nTATCJE OF KAMEHAMEHA, THE CDNQI'EROR. 



Kings and Queens of Hawaii, from Kamehameha, the conqueror, 
down to the Princess Like-Like, the last deceased of the royal family ; 



■s 



AROUND THE TOWN. 



past the residences of wealthy Honokikians, the broad-porticoed houses 
being almost hidden by masses of foliage of palm, banana and other 
tropical trees ; on past taro and banana fields until a point was reached 
from which the rolling Pacific could be seen stretching away to 

the horizon like a 
great burnished mir- 
ror, while the city, ' 
thick with foliage, lay 
in the valley below. 
Returning, the party 
made a detour that 
they might pass the 
Queen's Hospital, 
built by King Luna- 
lili in memory of 
Queen Emma. From 
the Hospital the party 
drove to Wai Kiki, 
the Asbury Park of 
the Hawaiian Islands, 
finally stopping at the 
residence of the Hon. 
A. S. Clacrhorn, where 

o 

they met the Princess 
Kaiulani, a beautiful 
I lawaiian girl of rare 
accomplishments and 
winning manners, the 
next but one to suc- 
ceed to the Hawaiian 
sovereignty. Further 
along we found the 
residence of the Hon. John H. Cummins, one of the wealthy men of 
Hawaii and proprietor of one of the great sugar plantations of the 
Island. The house was festooned with American flags, and on the broad 
verandahs we were entertained with music and songs by a band of 




HAWAIIAN LADY IN RIDING COSTUME. 



A GORGEOUS SCENE. 



79 



native boys with their guitars. A novelty to Americans was met with 
during this charming drive, in several horseback parties, the ladies of 
which, according to the custom of the country, bestrode their horses, 
being attired in a suitable and very elegant riding habit. Their grace 
and skill as riders were very admirable. From Mr. Cummins' house 
we were driven back to the hotel that we might prepare tor the grand 
"Luau" or native feast given in honor of the Spalding party by His 
Majesty, and Messrs. Samuel Parker, John Ena and George Beckley. 

The " Luau," or native feast of the Hawaiians, as it was given in our 
honor at Honolulu, was certainly the most novel, if not the most 
gorgeous event in which we participated during the tour. The feast 
took place upon the Queen's grounds, in the centre of which stood the 
Queen's private residence, and just as it began to grow dark our party 
started from the hotel and drove to the scene of the banquet. We 
passed the King's palace, and after a drive through an avenue of towering 
cocoanut palms, came unexpectedly upon the illuminated grounds of 
the Queen's residence, with their magnificent grove of banana, date, 
cocoanut, royal palm and many other varieties of tropical plants and 
trees. The grounds literally blazed with light. Flaming torches of oil 
had been set ten feet apart in one huge square around the outskirts of 
the park, while the softened glow of a thousand Japanese lanterns shone 
through the luxuriant shubbery, reminding us not a little of the tablemtx 
finale in our great spectacular dramas at home. Moving about over the 
graveled walks and through the beautiful shrubbery we could see the 
figures of two hundred or more of Honolulu's residents who had been 
invited to meet the visiting Americans, while from all quarters of the 
grounds we heard the singing of bands of native boys and the sweet 
melody of their guitars. The scene could scarce have been more 
attractive, and certainly not more surprising. 

The uniformed officers at the gates fell back in the most deferential 
manner as our party entered, and, with U. S. Minister Merrill, President 
Spalding, Captain H. G. Morse, and the ladies in the lead, walked to- 
ward a great tree near the centre of the grounds, beneath which stood His 
Majesty, the Hon. John Cummins, and members of the King's cabinet. 
In accordance with a very old custom in the royal families of Hawaii, a 
tree is planted upon royal ground at the birth of each member of the 



I 



8o ASTONISHING COURTESIES. 

ro\al household, and as the tree grows in vigor, strength and beauty of 
proportion, or as it is destroyed by the elements or weakened by disease, 
the future of the child is prognosticated. The tree under which King 
Kalakuau stood had been planted at his birth, some fifty years before, 
and upon the night of our reception the King was present, in the prime 
of life and full vio-or of manhood, while the tree towered above us, its 
branches far-reaching and covered with luxuriant foliage, while its sturdy 
trunk seemed capable of bearing the brunt of wind and weather for 
ages to come. His Majest)- informally and cordially received his guests, 
after which the boys, in accordance with the rojal mandate to make 
themselves perfectly at home, wandered awaj- in groups about the 
o-rounds. 

In one of the lattice-walled rooms of the Queen's residence stood a 
table bearing a hugh ten-gallon punch bowl, from which two dusky 
attendants were serving delicious beverage to all who requested it. 
Fogarty, Burns, and myself, together with several officers of the U. S. 
cruiser " Alert," entered to test the contents of the bowl, when, before 
we had reached the table, half a dozen pretty Kanaka girls, attired in 
gowns of some loose woven material of pure white, that contrasted 
beautifully with their dark hair and Italian-like complexions, approached 
us with a charming air of confidence, and, slipping their dusky arms 
around our necks, smiled into our astonished faces as they proceeded to 
fasten over our shoulders, " leis " of flowers — the wreath of welcome 
of the Hawaiians. We were all too much astonished for the moment to 
do much else than stare at the dusky beauties as they stood before us, 
their shapely arms exposed through the flowing sleeves, and the brown 
skin of their rounded shoulders only partly concealed by the delicate 
texture that covered them, and before w-e succeeded in recovering our 
self-possession the wreaths were fastened and the girls were extending 
the same prett)' and hospitable, not to say affectionate, courtesy toward 
others who had entered. Outside, the scene was indescribably gorgeous, 
and after paying our compliments to the punch bowl a second time we 
joined one of the groups of Honolulu's fair daughters w-ho had 
assembled in force to meet our part)-. 

A short distance away, in the centre of a grove of magnificent royal 
palms, preparations for the " luau " were going on. The ground had 



1 



THE GRAND MARCH. gl 

been covered with dried rushes and native grasses to the depth of three 
inches. Upon these had been laid the table, in the shape of a U, the 
boards resting upon blocks which elevated them, perhaps six 
inches above the rushes. Upon each side of the table had been 
laid long strips of matting, upon which the guests were to sit — tailor 
fashion — while stationed ten feet apart stood a line of Kanaka girls 
attired in flowing robes of white, and waving to and fro over the table 
long-handled, brilliandy colored fans. The innumerable colored lan- 
terns and the lurid glow of the oil torches which shone through the palm 
trees, the voices of the native boys and the sound of their guitars, the 
presence of a hundred white-clad Kanaka women, and the intoxicating 
perfume of the tropical foliage, all combined to make our experience a 
novel and delightful one. 

An hour after our arrival the King arose from his seat beneath the 
branches of his Birth-tree, and offering his arm to Mrs. Spalding, pro- 
ceeded toward the grove in which the tables had been laid. Following 
the King were H. R. H. Lilino Kalani, the King's sister ; and Prince 
Kawanonakoa. After them came President Spalding, Captain Morse, 
and the remainder of the party. Thanks to the skill and experience of 
the royal ushers, the big party was gracefully handled, and within a very 
few minutes after the procession had formed we were seated, the King 
sharing with Mrs. Spalding a richly embroidered silk mat at the head of 
the table, while others occupied seats upon the native matting. Opposite 
each plate sat calabashes filled with "poi," while upon the platters and 
■encased in long, coarse-fibred leaves in which they had been baked, 
were portions of beef, pork, veal, fish, chicken and all other viands to be 
found upon a moderate banquet table, but all prepared in native style. 
Fruit of almost every variety known to tropical countries was piled in 
lavish profusion from one end of the table to the other, and the usual wines 
were served without stint. Bands of native boys stationed upon the out- 
skirts of the party played continuously during the feast, and not a few of 
us who were lovers of stringed instruments left neglected the dishes 
before us while we listened to the peculiar rhythm and exquisite harmony 
of their music. 

Some of the experiences of the Americans with the native dish of 
" poi " were amusing. A pretty girl opposite me laughed merrily when 



82 A SUCCESSFUL '^LUAW 

I transferred a spoonful of the pink porridge to my plate, and then, as 
if to impress me with my ignorance of Kanaka customs, plunged two 
rosy fingers into the dish before her, gave them an expert twist and 
transferred the clinofinsf substance to her mouth. For a moment I 
wondered where the young woman had learned her table manners, and 
then as it dawned upon me that ever}' one but myself was indulging in 
the same breach of table etiquette, I too fell into line and ate "poi" 
with my fingers, a la Hawaii, and what is more, I found it exceedingly 
palatable. 

The " Luau " proceeded as nearly all banquets do. There was a con- 
tinued hum of conversation mingling with laughter, merry badinage 
and the music of the native boys, until silence was finally requested by 
His Majesty's Attorney-General, who, speaking for the King, expressed 
the pleasure His Majesty felt at having been afforded the opportunity 
of entertaining so representative a body of Americans within his own 
kingdom. President Spalding responded briefly, his well-worded tribute 
to Hawaii and its people's generous hospitality being warmly received 
by the resident Honoluluans present. Some moments later the King 
expressed a wish to hear Frank Lincoln in some of his specialties, and 
in response the humorist had the King and his guests laughing heartily 
before he had fairly got to his feet. His satire on after-dinner speeches, 
his "A, B, C" oration and his artistic mixture of a "soda cocktail," 
which many Americans will remember, were never more cleverly given, 
and certainly never called forth more enthusiastic applause. 

After fifteen minutes of uninterrupted laughter over Lincoln's re- 
marks we arose from the table, the King and the members of his family 
and cabinet returning to the trunk of the great tree, beneath which 
a levee was held, the ball-players mingling with the crowd in the 
gardens, where scores of dark-eyed Hawaiian beauties flirted and 
chatted with a zest fully equal to that exhibited by the typical American 
Sfirl. 

It was perhaps nine o'clock — our steamer was to weigh anchor at 
ten — when the members of our party filed under the branches of the 
great tree to bid His Majesty farewell. Kalakuau had seen Clarence 
Duval do a plantation " breakdown " to the " music " made by the 
bands of Tommy Burns, Fred Pfeffer, Ryan and Ned Williamson, and 



''Farewell:'' 



83 



after laughing heartily at the little darkie's " pigeon-wings" and " walk- 
arounds," had rewarded him with a ten-dollar gold piece. He had 
conversed pleasantly with many members of our party, and as we passed 
before him he shook each one of us warmly by the hand and wished us don 
voyage. He has a fine face, with dark, expressive eyes and a kindly ex- 
pression that grows more interesting as one looks into it, and more than 
one member of our party afterward declared himself as having been 
most agreeably surprised in His Majesty — to whose generous hospi- 




CLARENCE CUTTING " PIGEON-WINGS " BEFORE THE KING. 



tality we were so greatly indebted. Our farewells spoken, we paused 
at the outskirts of the natural pavilion which sheltered the King and 
gave His Majesty three American cheers, which brought a smile to his 
face and further good wishes to his lips. Three more were given for 
Our Friends in Honolulu, and then Fogarty made himself the target of 
half a hundred pairs of admiring eyes by proposing three cheers for 
The Ladies of Honolulu. It is needless to say that they were given. 



84 A LONG RUN. 

after which we were driven rapidly to our steamer. At the dock a 
great crowd awaited us, the assemblage at the Queen's grounds having 
adjourned to the steamer's side almost in a body. The King's band 
was there, and even now I can in fancy hear its beautiful strains in the 
*' Aloha " song, while the scene of the waving, cheering crowd upon 
the dock, illuminated by the powerful rays of the ship's calcium, and 
the farewells that came to us more and more faintly as the " Alameda's " 
head swung out to sea, are doubtless still as fresh in the memories of 
all our part)' as they are in my own. 

Fair Honolulu. We strained our eyes that night to catch a last 
glimpse of the disappearing lights upon its shores, with regret at 
leaving, and hope of again seeing what many of us still remember as 
among the most beautiful spots upon the globe. 

Fair Honolulu, City of the Sea, 

On Oahu's shores, where stately mountains rise, 

To dwell forever there, with thee, 
Would be to live in earthly paradise. 

Upon leaving Honolulu, we entered upon the longest period of our 
voyage across the Pacific ; the distance between Hawaii and- New 
Zealand, our next stop, with the exception of a brief wait for the mails 
at the Samoan Islands, being nearly 3900 miles. The trip from San 
Francisco to Honolulu, however, had made good sailors of most of us, 
:and the novelty of tossing about upon the swell of the ocean having in 
a measure worn off, the more active minds of the party soon became 
restless under the inactive life we were leading upon the quarter-deck. 
Anson was first in an endeavor to brino- about a chang-e. 

" See here, George," said he to Wright, the afternoon following our 
departure from Honolulu, '• this kind of a life will never do for Ameri- 
can ball-players upon a missionar)^ tour. We shall all be as stiff as 
old women and as fat as aldermen by the time we reach Australia, if 
we don't take exercise of some kind. Can't we arransfe to have a bit 
of cricket practice ? "■ 

George, a little later, held an interview with Captain INIorse, and the 
result was that on the followingr morningr, half a dozen sailors set to 
work to roof over and wall in with canvas the rear end of the quarter- 



CRICKET ON THE SEA. 



85 



deck promenade upon the larboard side of the ship. This was done 
to prevent the balls from bounding into the sea, and when completed, 
gave us an enclosed cricket alley about eight feet wide, ten high and 
forty feet long. The wickets were set in the extreme end of the alley, 
and the bowler, facing the opening of the tent, twenty feet beyond it, 
found plenty of room in which to swing his arm, and ample distance in 
which to "break" the ball quite effectively, despite the smooth decks 
and the occasional roll of the ship. Through George Wright's thought- 
fulness in providing the party with a fifty-foot stretch of cocoa matting, 
upon which to bowl, the ob- , 
stacles which the smooth 
oak planking of the deck of- 
fered to good bowling were 
overcome, and a surface al- 
most as good as genuine turf 
secured. The boys began 
practice almost as soon as 
arrangements were com- 
pleted, and did not afterward 
fail to put in several hours 
a day. Indeed, it was just 
what they all wanted, for 
they had begun to get a 
bit stiff and heavy, just as 
Anson predicted, as the re- 
sult of three hearty meals a 
day and no exercise, save, 

perhaps, an early morning turn on deck, and the bowling and batting 
either in the warm sun outside their tent or the high temperature 
inside of it, brought out the perspiration freely and landed the players 
in Australia almost in the pink of condition. 

It was the expectation when the party started out that we would 
play almost as much cricket as baseball, particularly in Australia, but we 
afterward found that we had little, if any, time left for other than the ball 
games arranged for by Manager Lynch. We did play one game of 
cricket in Sydney, and while our boys gave an exhibition of fielding 




CRICKET ON SHIPBOARD. 



86 SALT WATER BATHS. 

with which the fieldinsf work of the Austrahans could not for one 
moment compare, our lack of bowling and batting ability gave the Syd- 
ney Eleven an easy victory in the partly completed game played. A 
few of our players possessed a fair idea of batting with a straight bat, 
but the majority would hold on to the idea of hitting the ball hard, with 
a cross-bat, just as they were accustomed to do in baseball. Had 
they schooled themselves to do more blocking and less hitting, eight 
or ten of them, with continued practice and the experience of half a 
dozen games against the Australians, would probably have developed 
into very fair batsmen by the time we reached England. 

Time passed so rapidly upon the voyage that we had drawn near the 
New Zealand coast before we realized it. The weather became warm 
enough, soon after we had left the Hawaiian Islands, to permit of the 
boys sleeping upon deck, and between the hours of midnight and five 
in the morning, the comfortable cane-seated steamer chairs surround- 
ing the deck saloon, were sure to be found occupied by slumbering 
ball-players, attired in their flannel pjamas, and wrapped in the blankets 
they had brought from their state-rooms. The sailors awakened all 
deck-slumberers about half-past five by washing down the decks for the 
day with half a dozen streams of salt water, and then the boys would 
retire to their state-rooms, and divesting themselves of their pjamas, 
would reappear, au natural, for their salt-water baths, the water pour- 
ing from two big perforated nozzles near the smoke-stack, with force 
and volume enough to wash an entire reo-iment in half an hour. Then 
after a "sponge oft" in fresh water, followed by a cup of black coffee 
and a soda cracker brought us by the cabin stewards, we would prepare 
our toilets for the day. The salt-water baths were a source of any 
amount of fun, and were besides great invigorators, the boys, when 
they had donned their flannel suits and straw hats, coming upon deck 
with hearty appetites for breakfast, and in good condition for their morn- 
ing's cricket practice. 

Contrary to our calculations on leaving Honolulu we crossed the equa- 
tor somewhere between one and two o'clock on the morning of Decem- 
ber 1st. Had we crossed in daylight we should have received Neptune 
and his suite as they came over our bow from the depths of the ocean, 
but as it was, we were compelled to rely upon our own resources for 



I 



ACROSS THE EARTH'S GIRDLE. g^ 

celebration during the hour of crossing, and our resources were by no 
means few. A really good literary and musical programme was given 
in the cabin after supper, under Frank Lincoln's supervision, in which 
the piano, a mandolin, two banjos, and a guitar provided very acceptable 
orchestra music. General Strange, the old English army officer, gave 
us a thrilling account of his experience in the Sepoy mutiny in India, 
he having been present at the siege of Lucknow, while Frank Lincoln 
"wound up the programme 
with a series of his amusinsf 
specialties, after which our 
entire party moved our 
steamer chairs well up to- 
"ward the bow of the ship, and 
under the light of a million 
stars, played and sang every- 
thing, from light opera to 
plantation darky ballads, un- 
til Captain Morse informed 
us, about one o'clock, that 
we had crossed the earth's 
girdle and were in southern 
seas. 

Captain Morse, by the 
way, is an ideal captain. He 
stands six feet hiofh and 
weighs 283 pounds. In his 
day he has been an athlete 
of no ordinary ability, and 
one of the rarest treats I 
enjoyed upon that voyage 
was getting into the big fellow's state-room, together with Ned Wil- 
liamson, Tom Burns, and Ned Hanlon, to listen to the "old sea-dog's" 
stories of travel and adventure. He has been all over the world, and 
has sailed the Pacific for the past twenty-three years, until the record 
of his travels would make an exceedingly interesting volume. The 
captain sat at the head of the first table in the dining saloon, with 




CAPTAIN MORSE, COMMANDER OF THE "ALAMEDA." 



88 IN ROUGH WATER. 

President and Mrs. Spalding at his right, and Mr. and Mrs. Franlv Lin- 
coln at his left ; his hearty laugh and his good-natured, jovial countenance 
leaving no room for any such thing as a dull meal at our table during 
the voyage. Others at table No. i were Mr. and Mrs Anson, Ned and 
Mrs. Williamson, Captains Ward and Hanlon, the Press correspond- 
ents, Tom Burns, Fred Pfeffer, Fred Carroll, and George W^ right and 
his chum Snyder. 

On the morning of December 2d, a few hours after we had crossed 
the equator, the wind began to blow great guns, and by noon the 
" Alameda " was rolling about like a log in a mountain stream, while, to 
the amusement of the boys, great sheets of water dashed over our 
decks. Tom Daly, Pettit, Sullivan, Brown, Carroll, Earle and Healy 
skirmished around from one end of the ship to the other, soaked to the 
skin and yelling with laughter as often as a big wave would raise itself 
over the rail and send one of their number sprawling across the deck. 
At the table we were as apt to get our soup in our laps as in our 
mouths, and it was not an unusual sight to see a cabin steward flying 
down the saloon with our dinner in his outstretched hands, as though 
he were bent upon going through the bow of the ship. It did no good 
to call him, for it was utterly beyond his power to stop, so we only 
laughed at the poor fellow's plight and wondered if the ship's bow would 
be checked in its downward plunge by striking another billow before 
our flying steward struck the forward wall of the saloon and frescoed 
its polished surface with our fricasseed chicken and teal duck with jelly. 

It was too wet for comfort on deck that evening, so the ship's passen- 
gers amused themselves by holding a mock trial in the saloon, with 
General Strange in the chair, as the presiding judge, and Sir James 
Willoughby as the prisoner at the bar. Charges had been preferred, 
to the effect that "Sir Jimmy" was not a peer of the realm, as he had 
declared himself to be, and that he was violating a ship's law by 
carrj'ing concealed weapons. John W^ard acted as counsel for the 
defendant, and Colonel House as prosecuting attorney, while Jimmy 
Fogarty as Court Crier kept the crowd in such continuous laughter 
that the trial proceeded with great difficulty. Each witness was sworn 
not to tell the truth and anything but the truth, so that the evidence 
was naturally of a startling character, " Sir Jimmy " had been heard 



ANOTHER SIGHT OF LAND. 



89 



to declare he would scuttle the ship, and was known to carry an eight-ton 
gun in his pistol pocket — several of the witnesses had seen it, and 
described it accurately; while as to his pretensions to nobility, half a dozen 
witnesses knew him to be a clerk in the ribbon department at Macy's. 
Other witnesses, however, testified to the defendant's wonderful tender- 
ness of heart, and still others had been entertained in royal style at his 
town and country houses in England. " Sir Jimmy " was acquitted with 
all honor. There was afterwards some talk of bringing Tom Daly into 
court under " a bill of lunatico inquirendo" with Fogarty as " accessory 
to the crime," but the return and continuation of beautiful weather kept 
every one outside the saloon upon the decks. 

Our only sight of land during our two weeks' voyage from Honolulu 
to New Zealand was obtained upon the night of December 3d, when 
we sighted the northward island of the Samoan or Navigator group, 
made famous during the spring of 1888 by the native war which raged 
at Apia, and by the destruction in a tornado of the fleet of United 
States cruisers anchored in the harbor. The trouble was reaching an 
ugly stage at the time of our visit, though its seat was some ninety miles 
from Tutuila, the mailing station at which our steamer touched. It 
had been quite stormy for several hours previous to our arrival. Cap- 
tain Anson, Ed Crane, Tom Brown, Daly, Fogarty and myself were 
seated on the lee side of the deck, under shelter of the awning, watching 
for the first glimpse of a light on shore, or the first appearance of land 
through the darkness. Shortly after 1 1 o'clock we suddenly ran under 
the lee of a mountainous ridge of land, that rose like a black shadow 
out of the water, and our vessel stopped pitching almost immediately 
as we glided over waters that rippled gently about our bow, where five 
minutes before great foam-crested waves had been towering. The 
transition was so sudden that we all jumped from our chairs and ran 
to the bow just as the ship was illuminated by a signal light of green 
from the leeward end of the bridge. Then we saw land, and finally a 
twinkling light upon the shore nearly five miles away. Slowly we 
steamed toward it, while signal lights continued flashing their mes- 
sages between our ship and the shore. We did not attempt to land, 
but lay in the harbor half a mile out until two boats, one a sloop and 
the other a little dory that bobbed about us like a cork on the waves, 



90 



CAPTAIN MORSE REMEMBERED. 



had come out from the dock with the foreign bound mail and two 
passengers for Auckland. Had we reached these islands in daytime, 
our ship would have been surrounded with canoes filled with natives, 
and we should doubtless have been able to bring away many interesting 
souvenirs. As it was, however, we saw nothing of the country, and 
caught but a glimpse of the natives as we watched them over the ship's 
rail. One stalwart fellow with a copper-colored skin and thick, red 
hair'=' did clamber up the side to take the purser's receipt for the mail- 
sacks, and we got a good view of him. He tossed off nearly a goblet 
full of gin, which the purser handed him, as though it were so much 
water, and, wiping his lips with his big, red hand, descended into the 
mail-boat. This was really all we saw of Samoa, for after receiving our 
passengers and leaving our mail, the " Alameda " moved slowly out of 
the harbor, and twenty minutes later was again plunging and rolling 
through the great waves that drenched her decks. 

The weather grew cooler after leaving Samoa, and our flannel suits 
were discarded for clothes of a warmer texture, with light overcoats 
for use upon deck during the evening. Cricket practice was indulged 
in everyday, and many delightful hours were enjoyed under the light of 
the southern cross, which was now plainly discernible. But despite the 
pleasant, lazy life on shipboard, we all began to wish for a bit of dry 
land to tread upon. Finally, about 3 o'clock on the morning of Decem- 
ber 9th, we sighted the revolving light on the first island of the New 
Zealand group. This light, the man on watch informed me as I came out 
of my state-room for a solitary smoke, was just eight hours' run from 
Auckland. All of the passengers were on deck before breakfast, eager 
to catch sight of the land, that arose in beautiful green hills upon our 
larboard side, and at the breakfast table Major-General Strange, on be- 
half of the passengers, presented Captain Morse with a purse of ^200 
as a testimonial and in recognition of his care and guidance of our good 
ship upon the voyage. The big captain acknowledged the gift in a brief, 
though manly and well-worded speech that won him an enthusiastic 
burst of applause from his assembled admirers. Kind and attentive 
from the time we had cut loose from our moorings at San Francisco ; 

*The natives of the Navigator group have a custom of bleaching their hair with lime. 



AUCKLAND HARBOR. 



91 



jolly, big-hearted, and an able commander, he completely won the confi- 
dence and admiration of his passengers. 

Auckland harbor is second only to that of Sydney in point of pictur- 
esque beauty, and we had an excellentviewof it as our ship steamed her 
way along a winding channel upon each side of which arose bold, irreg- 
ular hills, characteristic of all countries of volcanic origin. Pretty sail- 
boats and busy steamers dotted the bay, and upon the sides of the ma- 
jestic hills were pretty, balconied residences of white stone surrounded 





bird's-eye view of AUCKLAND AND ITS HARBOR. 



by carefully kept grounds. As we neared the dock at the foot of the 
main street we were struck with the remarkable quiet of the town, and 
then recalled the fact that we had dropped a day from our calendar 
upon crossing the 180th degree of longitude, and that it was Sunday 
morning at Auckland, instead of Saturday, as it would have been but for 
the change in our calendar. We had expected to meet Leigh Lynch at 
Auckland, but he was unable to leave Sydney, and sent his cousin, Will 



92 DOING THE CITY. 

Lynch, who came on board with a big basket filled with bouquets for the 
members of our party. He was followed by several newspaper men, 
and one and all poured into our ears a wail of regret that we could 
not have arrived the day before, when it was reasonably certain we 
should have had eight or ten thousand people present to witness the 
game. Usually the steamers stop but a few hours at Auckland, but we 
were delighted to learn that the "Alameda" could not finish coalino- before 
five o'clock the following afternoon, so we should be able, after all, to 
play a game in New Zealand. Byway of change from steamer life, we 
accepted an invitation from President Spalding to takedlnner at the Im- 
perial Hotel, and the change was delightful, notwithstanding that the 
cuisine of our good ship was first-class. Indeed, had a Delmonico been 
our ship's caterer, we should have welcomed any departure from our 
usual bill of fare. Those who have crossed the ocean will understand 
this feeling-. 

They know how to live in New Zealand, even though they be colo- 
nists. The beef was delicious, while new potatoes, green peas, fresh 
from the garden, cauliflower, young radishes, English duck done to a 
turn, and strawberries, such as Americans have read of, possibly, but 
have never seen, constituted a dinner all the more enjoyable because 
its dishes were luxuries with Americans at that season of the year. 
After dinner, at the invitation of several of the representative newspaper 
men at Auckland, we mounted two bigf four-horse coaches and did the 
city and its environs, finally scaling the sides of Mount Eden, an extinct 
volcano on the outskirts of the city, and looking into its musty old 
crater. The country about Auckland is wonderfully rich and beauti- 
fully picturesque, and despite the drizzling rain which fell, the drive over 
the hard roads behind a four-in hand of sturdy English coachers was an 
interesting one. The clouds cleared away soon after sundown, and the 
"Alameda's" passengers thronged the big stone dock at which the 
steamer lay until long after midnight, being eager, all of us, to spend 
every available moment of our time upon shore. 

On the following day I got a better idea of the beautiful country sur- 
rounding Auckland. It was scarcely seven o'clock when I was awakened 
by Bob Pettit, who informed me that a couple of saddle horses awaited 
us on the dock, and that we had no time to lose. 



A MORNING RIDE. -•., 

" How about breakfast? " I asked. 

" Bother breakfast," was the right-fielder's reply. '•' If you'll move 
yourself in a hurry, I'll give you a breakfast at the end of the prettiest 
seven-mile ride you ever saw ; but there is no time to be lost." 

So I tumbled out of my berth, and twenty minutes later Bob and I 
stood on the dock attired in the pick-up riding costumes we had worn 
upon our first ride at Salt Lake. Two long-barreled nags awaited us, 
and on these we were soon riding through the streets of the scarcely 
awakened city, then on past the parks until we struck the hard white 
road that led to Manukau Cove. It was a delightful ride, for the 
country was green and beautiful, the air fresh and invigorating, and our 
horses anxious to go. We passed quaint English-looking inns and ale- 
houses, around which groups of New Zealand farmers had gathered for 
business or idle chat. The " bob-carts " we have read about, driven by 
square-tiled yeomen, who looked at us curiously as we passed, were 
frequently met with, and once or twice we stopped en route for a glass 
•of light sparkling ale from the hands of the bright-eyed bar-maids, who, 
instead of the white-aproned masculine bar-keepers of America, serve 
customers in New Zealand. Finally turning a bend in the road, we 
came into view of Manukau, the little village on the shore of Manukau 
Cove. Nearly all of the inhabitants are seafaring people, and the 
Manukau Hotel, which faces the Cove, is their headquarters. Without 
ceremony Bob and I rode into the court-yard of the inn and tied our 
horses to a couple of staples in the wall. 

"You seem to be at home here, old man," I remarked. 

"Well, I guess," replied Pettit, with all the confidence of a bred and 
born Yankee, "this is right where I live, and I only got acquainted last 
night at that. Come in, and let me introduce you to my family," with 
which Bob opened a side door and I followed him into the little hotel 
parlor, and through the doorway across the hall caught a glimpse of 
the inevitable hotel ale room, which we entered. 

There were three people in the room and they were typical samples 
of colonial life. The first was an elderly, well-preserved old colonist 
fat and ruddy complexioned with the ale of his own brewing ; the next 
was a gray-bearded coast skipper, in a fore-and-aft hat and an oilskin 
jacket ; while the third was a colonial innkeeper's wife, fat, forty and 



g^ BREAKFAST AT A COLOXIAL TAVERN. 

good-natured, and as thrifty and energetic as she was good-natured. 
And how well her name fitted her appearance, and her position as mis- 
tress of the principal tavern at Manukau, Mrs. Waterman. 

Advancing toward Bob and myself with a broad Gmile of welcome, 
she gave the former a hearty slap on the shoulder as she said : " Wel- 
come to ye, me lad ; ye are out a bit early this morning, are ye not ?" 

" Yes, we came out for breakfast, " said Pettit, " can we have some ?" 

"That ye can, " was the hearty reply, and after an introduction to the 
two old skippers, we turned into the hallway just as two fresh-faced 
prett)' girls came down the stairs, only to greet, and be greeted by Bob 
as though they were old-time acquaintances. They were the daughters 
of our hostess, and each was a typical representative of colonial beauty, 
with enough of wit and spirit added to their physical charms, to make 
them even a more interesting study for us than were our breakfasts, 
hungry, though we were. Mrs. Waterman sat down with us and 
served us from the rich juicy steak that steamed upon the platter, while 
we flirted with her two daughters through one of the most heartily 
relished breakfasts I partook of on the tour. After an hour spent over 
our sherry and cigarettes in the little parlor, Pettit and I bade a regretful 
farewell to our colonial cousins, and turned our horses' heads toward 
Auckland for another delightful ride. We reached the city just in time 
to join the party in a visit to the City Hall, where for an hour or more 
we were the gruests of Mayor Devore. 

About 1 2 o'clock the local band marched down the principal street to 
the ".Alameda," where it headed a procession of carriages containing the 
teams in uniform and two biof tallv-ho coaches which carried the remain- 
der of the "Alameda's" passengers, as invited guests at the game. The 
drive to the grounds was a pretty one, and the stretch of greensward 
within the enclosure as attractive a sight as any we saw in New Zealand. 
Our game in New Zealand was of the heavy batting order, and the way 
in which a ball rolled whenever it was batted into the smooth, velvety 
outfield, would have broken the hearts of a league out-field in a cham- 
pionship game. A dozen Englishmen sat near me, and as they had never 
before seen a baseball game they were completely bewildered. I ex- 
plained several of the plays however, telling them how and when the 
side had been retired, calling their attention to the fielding, the throwing 



OFF FOR SYDNEY. 



95 



to first across the diamond and from the out-field, to double plays, base- 
running, and sliding, until I had them as deeply interested as ever they 
had been in a game of cricket. The Englishmen among our passen- 
gers who had picked up the cardinal points from the boys en -voyage, 
were particularly pleased, and admitted they had never seen such field- 
ing or remarkable base-running. 

Two thousand people had assembled to bid us farewell when the 
"Alameda" left the dock at five o'clock that afternoon, and we watched 




THE BOLD HEADLANDS OF THE SHORE OF SYDNEY HARBOR. 



the picturesque coast until nightfall. An hour later the "Alameda" turned 
her nose west by no'r-west, heading for Sydney, 1243 miles away. 

On the afternoon of December 14th, after a rough voyage, we sighted 
the Australian coast. By three o'clock we could discern the shore line, 
and at five we went down to dinner. We were not long at the table, 
however. Everybody dined hastily and rushed upon deck, and watched 
the bold headlands of the shore gfrow more and more distinct. 

Presently we saw a thin trail of smoke across the sky, and soon we 



96 ANOTHER GLORIOUS WELCOME. 

discovered the oudines of die pilots' tug as it steamed toward us. Man- 
ager Leigh Lynch's face was one of the first we saw as the pilot boat 
approached, and our big business manager was received with rousing 
cheers and hearty handshaking as he, with the old gray-bearded pilot, 
climbed up the ship's side. He admonished us, however, to save our 
voices, " for" said he, "all Sydney will be in the bay to meet you, and I 
want you to show them how healthy Americans can cheer." 

We soon found that Lynch had but slightly exaggerated the prepa- 
rations made for our reception, for as we steamed through "Sydney 
Heads," with schools of graceful dolphins diving about our bow, and 
hundreds of sea-birds that had flown out from land, as if to welcome us, 
circling about our masts, we discovered several steamers coming toward 
us at a speed that cut the water into white sheets upon each side of their 
bows. Nearer and nearer they drew until we could hear the bands of 
music with which each steamer was provided, their strains mingling 
with the cheers that came to us faintly across the water. Then we dis- 
cerned scores of fluttering handkerchiefs, and eager happy faces, as 
men clung to the ropes and every other available holding place upon 
the little crafts and madly waved us welcome, while the ladies — and there 
were great numbers of them — circled their shawls and bright-colored 
sun-shades about their heads, determined not to be outdone by their 
husky-voiced escorts. Steamer after steamer dropped alongside of us, 
until the "Alameda" had become the centre of a puffing, cheering, banner- 
bedecked escort, the demonstration causing not a few eyes on board to 
moisten with joy and gratitude at once more reaching land, the recipients 
of so glorious a welcome. The lighthouse on the point was draped 
from top to bottom with red, white and blue bunting, and with American 
flags, and as we steamed up the beautiful harbor, toward the dock, two 
flotillas of watermen's boats, fairly covered with the " stars and stripes " 
and "union jacks, " swung into line alongside of us, until our ship was 
surrounded by an hundred and fifty craft of various characters. Of 
course we cheered for everything any one among us could suggest, and 
each cheer was answered by the enthusiastic hundreds who were steam- 
ing along beside us. Indeed, no one who has not seen Sydney harbor, 
and who does not know .the generous hospitality of the Australians, can 
form an adequate idea of our delightful reception. It was glorious ! it 



A PICTURESQUE HARBOR. 



97 



was soul-stirring ! It was in every way a complete surprise, in that it 
so far exceeded all that we had imagined it might be. Certainly no 
more picturesque and beautiful scenery, of its kind, exists anywhere in 
the world than that about Sydney harbor. The waters of the sea extend 
inland between jutting hills and headlands, until, when viewed from some 
point high above the sea level, the bay looks like a big glistening star- 
fish, upon the back of which are moving hundreds of sailing craft of 
every description. Beautifully-kept private and public parks extend 




'-a-jr-r^i 

PANORAMIC VIEW OF SYDNEY AND ITS SUPERB HARBOR. 



downward to the water's edge, and quaintly-designed English-looking 
residences of white stone, with their turrets and tower-capped walls, 
stand upon the hillsides, partly hidden by a wealth of beautiful foliage. 
The sight of the picturesque harbor and its beautiful shores was alone 
a glorious one in the eyes of ever}' passenger on the " Alameda," while 
the generous demonstration in honor of our arrival made our reception at 
Sydney the most delightful and noteworthy event thus far upon our tour, 
7 



98 



ARRIVING IN SYDNEY. 



Upon the quay at which our steamer was to land stood hundreds of 
cheering people, and the welcome they gave us was equaled only by 
that which we had received at Honolulu. Our party with difficulty 
made its way through the crowd to five four-horse tally-ho coaches, 
beautifully decorated with the Stars and Stripes, and through the 
colonial thoroughfares we rode to the Oxford and Grosvenor hotels. 




GEORGE STREET — ONE OF THE COLONIAL THOROUGHFARES. 

The entire party stopped first at the Oxford, the entrance to which, as 
well as to the dining-room, had been quite elaborately decorated in red, 
white and blue bunting, boughs of spruce and evergreen, and swinging 
colored lanterns. Brief but hearty greetings by U. S. Consul Griffin, 
Leigh Lynch, and President Spalding followed, and after drinking as 
many toasts as we thought it advisable to wet thus early in the evening, 
the boys repaired to their rooms to make a hasty toilet for the formal 
welcome to Australia arranged for us at the Royal Theatre. The 
Royal is presided over by "Jimmy" Williamson, a whole-souled and 



ON THE STAGE. 



99 



:._>^-X . 



•-m 



patriotic American, who has made a success of his dramatic enterprises 
in AustraHa. Himself and wife were in the caste in "Struck Oil" that 
evening, and in a farcical hit upon the evils of Chinese Immigration, as 
an afterpiece. The theatre had been beautifully decorated with Amer- 
ican flags, and was filled with a fashionable audience, nearly all of whom 
were in evening costume. The boys were recognized and heartily 
applauded as they filed into the private boxes and that section of the 

dress circle reserved for i. ^ — —rj 

them. After the closing " 

act of "Struck Oil" our en- 
tire party passed through 
the box aisle upon the 
stage, where, arranging 
ourselves in a semicircle, 
we faced "the house" as 
the curtain arose, and 
stood silently for nearly a 
minute while the applause 
continued. Then Mr. Dan- 
iel O'Connor, a member of 
parliament and one of the 
most popular legislators in 
New South Wales, intro- 
duced us, his brief speech 
beincf full of kind words 
for America and every- 
thing American, and par- 
ticularly eulogistic of the 
party of American ball- 
players which had come so 
far upon such a mission without any guarantee whatever against finan- 
cial loss, or against artistic failure, unless, perhaps, their confidence in 
the beauties of their national game, and in the sport-loving spirit of 
the Australians, was all the guarantee they wanted. 

President Spalding responded in a manner that won him continued 
and hearty applause, and it is safe to say that when the curtain finally 




MR. DANIEL O'CONNOR, M. P., SYDNEY, N. S. W. 



lOO 



'"RAH FOR BABl AASON'/' 



fell, the Royal contained none who were unfriendly to our part}'. A 
laughable incident, and one which shows how far a professional ball- 
player's fame may extend, and how small the world is, after all, occurred 
as the curtain fell. A voice from the galler)^ rang out with an unmis- 
takable juvenile ring, "'Rah for Baby Anson." The boy may have been 
an American lad who had seen many a championship game at home 
before having drifted to far-away New South Wales, or he may have 

been an Australian reader 
of our American baseball 
papers, but whatever his 
nationality, he was a resi- 
dent of Australia, and had 
recognized "Baby" Anson 
when he saw him. 

The ensuing days of our 
stay in Sydne)' were filled 
with pleasant incidents and 
unlimited entertainment 
and attentions. At ii 
o'clock on the morning 
after our arrival, we as- 
sembled in the office of the 
Oxford for a formal call at 
the city hall upon His Wor- 
ship, Mayor Harris. The 
big four-in-hand coaches, 
decorated with the Stars 
and Stripes, as upon the 
preceding evening, took 
us through the principal 
screets and past enthusiastic throngs of people, not a few of whom 
stopped to send a cheer after us as we drove by. U. S. Consul Griffin, 
members of the reception committee and representatives of the Sydney 
press accompanied us. At the City hall we were received in the coun- 
cil chamber by His Worship, attired in his official robes of purple and 
ermine, after which we crossed the hall to the mayor's chamber, in the 




I 



HIS WORSHrP, MAYOR HARRIS, OF SYDNEY, N. S. ^V. 



"THE FREEDOM OF THE CITY:' lOi 

centre of which stood a big table draped with snowy linen and loaded 
with refreshments, while half a dozen side-whiskered butlers broke the 
wires upon half a hundred quarts of Clicquot, Mumm and Pomery. 
The mayor received us with a cheery speech, telling us that Sydney 
was glad to welcome us, and would doubtless demonstrate, to our entire 
satisfaction, the interest it felt in the visit of so representative a body 
of American athletes. He believed that Australians would like baseball, 
and though he did not understand the game thoroughly himself, he 
thought well enough of it to predict that in time Australia would herself 
have a league embracing teams capable of coping with our American 
professionals. He was personally glad to see us, and tendered us the 
freedom of the city during our stay. United States Consul Griffin 
responded happily to the mayor's address, and then His Worship again 
arose to say that so long as Americans treated Australia with the degree 
of consideration they had always in the past extended, Australians would 
make it pleasant for their American cousins while the latter were upon 
Australian soil. " My reasons for believing that our athletes will 
emulate your baseball players" said His Worship, in conclusion, "are 
manifold. In the first place, we have adopted your American ideas of 
trotting, and we have managed to scrape up material enough to beat 
your best oarsmen." Here His Worship turned toward oarsman Ned 
Hanlan, who had quietly entered the room and taken a seat near Presi- 
dent Spalding, and the reference was enough to secure for Hanlan a 
hearty burst of applause from his fellow-Americans. "And," continued 
the mayor, "if all Americans will yield the palm with as good grace as 
Mr. Hanlan has done, we will entertain as high an opinion of them as 
we now do of Mr. Hanlan." The Canadian was loudly cheered when, 
in answer to a unanimous call, he arose and told us of the warm hospi- 
tality of the Australians and his many delightful experiences during his 
stay among them. Responses to the mayor's address by Mr. Spalding 
and Leigh Lynch followed, and after -drinking to the dozen or more 
toasts proposed, we withdrew to our equipages, with three American 
cheers and the inevitable tiger for the Mayor of Sydney. 

That same afternoon we played our first game in Australia upon the 
grounds of the Sydney Cricket Association, and the boys were compelled 
to admit that, in whatever other respects the Colonies might be inferior 



I02 



A PRETT\ GAME. 



to the United States, they certainly possessed athletic grounds so far 
superior in point of equipment and condition to anything we had in the 
United States at that time, that there was no room whatever for com- 
parison. The drive to the Sydney grounds is in itself an attractive one, 
and the playing-field, as level as a floor, velvety with its thick covering 
of green turf, and surrounded by its sloping lawns and prettily-designed 
club houses, is a sight to delight the eye of any man who ever played 
cricket or baseball. Threatening weather doubtless kept many from the 
grounds, and the great annual foot races at Botany, together with the 
horse races, affected the attendance at our game to no small extent ; sdll, 
there were in the neighborhood of 4000 people upon the grounds, and 
the strict and evidently interested attention paid by the big crowd to a 
foreign game, with which they were unfamiliar, was a 
gratifying surprise to the players and a pretty mark of 




BASE SLIDING AS AUSTRALIANS SAW IT. 
(From the Illustrated Paper published in Sydney, N. S. W.) 

respect to our party and to America's national game. Evervbody was 
quick to recognize and appreciate many of the stronger points of play, 
and all vigorously applauded the base-sliding and running, as well as 
the good stiff batting indulged in by both teams, all of which were 
well illustrated in their pictorial papers. The game was a prett}' 
one. It was nip and tuck up to the fifth inning, when Chicago, by 
the capture of one run, tied the score, and it so remained until All- 
America sent a man across the plate in the ninth inning, with the winning 
run. Indeed, had the boys played it to order, they could scarcely have 
put up a more interesting game or a prettier exhibition of the most 
attractive features of baseball. During an intenal of fifteen minutes 



THE SIGHTS AFTER DARK. X03 

at the end of the sixth inning, Lord Carrington, Governor of New 
South Wales, received the party in the Association club house, where 
His Excellency, who is a great lover of athletic sports, welcomed us 
warmly to the colony and wished us every success in our efforts to 
introduce the game into Australia. President Spalding responded, and, 
after three cheers for Lord Carrington, Lady Carrington, the Queen, 
the President, Australia and Sydney, the boys withdrew to finish the 
game, their reappearance upon the field being the signal for a continued 
shout of applause from the spectators. 

The ride from the grounds was followed by an excellent dinner at 
the hotels, and then the boys broke away in congenial groups to see 
something of Sydney after dark. The theatres had all extended general 
invitations to our party, and each had several representatives present 
during the evening. John Ward, Ed Hanlan, Jim Manning and myself, 
under the leadership of Messrs. Allen and Murray, of the Sydney Star 
and Melbourne Sportsman, dropped into Larry Foley's gymnasium — the 
sporting headquarters of Sydney — and witnessed a by no means bad 
set-to of eight rounds, between two very clever middle-weights. Others 
of the boys were present at an athletic entertainment at the Sydney 
Opera House. At the close of the different performances the boys 
dropped into the various resorts about town, and not a few of us became 
interested students of that not uninteresting colonial institution, the 
Australian barmaid, with which no Australian cafe or drinking resort is 
unprovided. In most cases they are pretty, in every instance smart, 
and combining with these qualities -an excellent knowledge of mankind 
and his weaknesses, they are more valuable to the Australian liquor 
dealer than our most expert beverage mixers would be, for the Austra- 
lian, like the Englishman, rarely asks for other than a glass of ale or 
beer, or a bit of brandy and soda. It is fortunate he is so simple in his 
tastes, else he would suffer as does the average American who steps 
into an Australian bar room, expecting to be served as he would be in 
Chicago, San Francisco, or New York. 

Our first Sunday in Australia — the day after our game — was most 
delightfully spent, the boys dividing into parties of six or eight, to 
accept invitations extended us for a drive upon tally-ho coaches through 
the suburbs of Sydney, some driving out to the beautiful Botany Bay 



I04 



A USTRALIAN HOMES. 



district and others, including myself, going to the bluffs and shores of 
Coogee Bay. We drove over sloping hills and beautiful valleys with 
their excellent roadways, lined upon each side by pretty vine-clad, 
flower-embowered homes of white stone, the names "Edgewood," 
"Myrtle Terrace," etc., being cut into a square block of stone to 
answer the purpose of the ugly, unromantic "1922," "1924," etc., 
which we paint upon the transoms of our doorways in America. Our 
road lay for the greater part along or near the shore, and we could 




■ NE OF THli UEAUTIES OF SYDNEY BAY. 



catch an occasional glimpse of Sydney Bay or some one of its many 
beautiful coves, to the waters of which the terraced hills descended. 
After an hour of such driving we came suddenly in view of the beach, 
and finally dismounted at the aquarium on the seashore. Our party 
was invited inside, and saw a collection of many hundreds of native 
fish — some of them remarkable specimens — in the big plate-glass 
tanks, into which the sea water is being constantly injected. Adjoining 
the aquarium is the bathing-tank, and into this the boys plunged for a 



A VIEW FROM "THE POINT:' 



105 



sea bath that, as Fogarty declared, put them in good trim for a week's 
ball-playing. After our bath we enjoyed the concert in the pavilion, not 
forgetting to drink Manager Stafford's health before leaving, and then 
made our way to "The Point," a great ledge of rocks, around the base 
ot which the sea breaks with impressive grandeur. The view of the 
ocean from here is magnificent, and down on the sandy beach to the 
right of the rocks the bathing is particularly fine. The boys were hungry 
when we got back to the hotel, but not too tired after supper to attend 




SYDNEY'S FASHIONABLE BATHING BEACH AT COOGEE BAY. 



a delightful concert at the Criterion Theatre, at which we remained until 
the last number had been given. 

None of the boys, I am sure, will forget the first attempt at cricket 
by the Chicago and All-America teams in Australia. It took place upon 
the Sydney grounds, between 1 1 and i o'clock, the day after our drive 
to Coogee, Mr. Spalding, George Wright, Billy Earle and George Wade 
doing the bulk of the bowling, and the innings ending with a score of 



I06 TRYING CRICKET. 

67 to 33, in favor of All-America. Anson, as Captain of the Chicago 
team, and as one of the greatest baseball batters in America, was accord- 
ingly disgusted. All the way across he had been telling what he 
individually, and a team of his selection, would do at cricket, and had 
made not a few bets to back his assertion. Consequently, the boys 
listened to him respectfully as he coached them during the game, 
and looked upon him with great expectations when he went to bat. 
W^hen he struck at the first ball bowled at him, however, and was retired 
on a little pop-up fly ball to Fogarty, some of the boys fell to the turf 
with laughter and " Anse" looked six inches shorter as he stepped to 
one side. He tried to "bluff" out of it, but Tom Burns told him to go 
and sit down, and "Anse" retired to a corner of the field to bat 
Mascot Duval's bowling. He was crusty enough to snap Tom Burns' 
head off an hour after when Tom tauntingly asked him if Clarence was 
*' very speedy." Our second ball game in Sydney took place two hours 
after the cricket game referred to, in the presence of 3000 people, and 
like the first game, was a pretty exhibition and a close contest, resulting 
in a victory for All-America by a score of 7 to 5, with Baldwin and Healy 
as opposing pitchers. 

Our first cricket game against Australian cricketers was played the 
following day, play commencing at 1 1 o'clock, and ending at 4 o'clock, 
with the Americans '^'] runs in, and the Australians 115 runs in for six 
wickets, and playing as though they intended making as many more out 
of the remaining five. The game was brought to a close at this stage, 
however, to permit of the ball game being played. The latter, although 
close and hard fought, resulted in another victory for All-America. It 
was marked by little life, however, the boys being tired out as the result 
of their hard day's work at cricket. 

I asked George Wright that evening what he thought of the showing 
our men had made at cricket, and he expressed the belief that had they 
been half as strong in bowling as in fielding, they would have been a 
match for the Australians. There was many a burst of applause over 
our fielding, but our batting was very weak, and we had no bowlers aside 
from Messrs. Wright and Spalding. The Australians gave us the advan- 
tage of seventeen men to their eleven. 

Although tired out upon arriving at the hotel, the boys changed their 



FROM BALL FIELD TO DINING HALL. 1 07 

uniforms for evening dress, and attended the banquet tendered by the 
citizens of Sydney at the Town Hall. Two hundred plates were laid, 
and nearly every seat was occupied. The Reception Hall of the great 
building, with its palatial dome, great stone columns and stained glass 
windows, was one gorgeous array of English and American flags. 
Upon one side of the room was a life-size portrait of Her Majesty, and 
just opposite was one of the Duke of Edinburgh. The long tables 
were loaded with every delicacy the chef's deft fingers could prepare or 
his skill suggest, the beauty of the entire scene being enhanced by the 
■soft-colored lights which burned upon the table. The corridors were 
embowered in tropical shrubbery and trailing vines which only half hid 
the luxuriant divans and lounges which had been conveniently set about 
for the use of the guests. Soft carpets covered the marble floors, while 
on every side, and almost at every step, were banks of cut flowers 
and plants that filled the air with their delightful perfume. At one end 
of the hall a raised platform had been erected, and upon this a musical 
and literary entertainment was given at the close of the feast. 

Our trip thus far had been one round of banquets and receptions, 
but that feast in Sydney was certainly the most elaborate and memorable 
we had yet enjoyed. The great room in itself, 80 feet from floor to 
dome and with 125 by 60 feet floor space, its magnificent ceiling of 
white and gold, its costly paintings, its gorgeous chandelier with two 
hundred and fifty crystal globes, its wealth of stained glass and its 
decorations of flags and flowers, was imposing beyond description, and 
especially so when to these adornments was added the presence of one 
hundred and fifty gentlemen and ladies in evening dress at banquet. 
Toasts were proposed, and were responded to by United States Consul 
Griffin, the Hon. Daniel O'Connor, President Spalding, John M. Ward, 
Leigh Lynch, Newton McMillan, Mr. E. G. Allen, of the Sydney Star, 
and others. They included: "The Queen," "The President," "The 
Governor," "Our Guests," "The Ladies," "The Press" and "The 
Chairman." 

Following the responses to the last toast came a musical treat by 
some of the best amateur and professional talent in Sydney. Among 
the numbers given was a cornet solo, with piano accompaniment by 
Mrs. Leigh Lynch. Her execution was a revelation to every one 



Io8 THE RED, WHITE AND BLUE. 

present, and when she played "Yankee Doodle," "Star Spangled 
Banner," and other popular American airs, the guests arose from their 
seats and filled the room with a long and enthusiastic burst of applause, 
while they plucked handfuls of roses from the floral banks upon the 
table and showered them at the fair musician, who was encored again 
and aoain. 

This brief reference to the incidents of that memorable evening falls 
far short of an adequate description of the generous spirit and 
memorable events of our last hours in Sydney. Sydney people are 
without doubt among the most hospitable on earth. They did not 
permit our party to rest an hour after our steamer reached their dock, 
and certainly no party of Americans ever left a city with more honest 
regret and kind remembrance than did ours when we took the train for 
Melbourne the following evening. 

There had been no game arranged for the day of our departure, 
and we put in our time bidding farewell to many friends that each had 
made. During the morning the boys visited a down-town store, and 
each secured a neat straw hat with a band of red, white and blue 
ribbon. An American traveling man whom we met in Sydney also 
presented the boys with a button-hole badge of the stripes and stars, 
so that it was not at all difficult for Sydneyites to distinguish the 
members of our party. 

An hour before train time we entered a four-in-hand drag at "The 
Oxford," and were driven to the " Grosvenor Hotel," where the Hon, 
Daniel O'Connor had invited us for a farewell to himself and other 
representative residents of New South Wales. The beautiful dining- 
room of the hotel had been prettily decorated, and was comfortably 
filled with the members of our party and some thirty invited guests, and 
the manner in which we made the walls ring with our cheers as we 
drank to the toasts proposed, is probably still remembered by the 
regular patrons of the hotel. 

After three rousing cheers for everything and everybody in Sydney, 
we entered our drag, and were driven to the railroad station, where, 
thanks to the Railway Department of the New South Wales Government, 
we took a special train for Melbourne. The English-styled compartment- 
coaches were novelties to us, and for that reason, probably, we smiled 



MELBOURNE ENTHUSIASTIC. 109 

good-naturedly at the discomforts we experienced. Tlie Americans 
who had made it so pleasant for us at Sydney were down in force to see 
us off, and nearly all of them brought a package or two. for the boys. 
The ride out of Sydney is beautiful, and with the comforts of the 
elegantly-appointed Pullman Sleepers to which Americans are accus- 
tomed would have been voted equal to anything at home. The land is 
rich and fertile, and the hills are thickly wooded, while they are well 
cultivated and quite generously populated. The roadbed of the railway, 
which is operated by the Government, is equal in solidity of construction, 
I think, to any I ever traveled over. We took supper at the little station 
of Mitagon soon after nightfall, and then the boys stretched out upon 
the comfortable leather-covered cushions of their compartments, and 
told stories and exchanged experiences over their cigars while they 
looked out upon the moonlight-flooded woodlands. 

The only unpleasant incident of our journey from Sydney to 
Melbourne was a change of cars on the borders of the Colony at 5.30 
o'clock in the morning, and the examination of our baggage by the 
Customs Authorities. These gentlemen, fortunately for us, did not think 
it necessary to examine our luggage very closely, however, so we escaped 
with but little inconvenience in this respect, and at about 6 o'clock started 
for Melbourne, which we reached at 1 1 o'clock. Our train came to a 
halt in a substantial-looking station at Spencer street, and as we 
entered, a cheer went up from fully five hundred people on the station 
platform, apprising us that Melbourne was ready and waiting to receive 
us. A number of the American residents of Melbourne being members 
of the reception committee appointed to meet us, and the Victorian 
Cricket Association also being well represented, we received a most 
hearty welcome on our arrival at the Victorian capital. Four-in-hand 
drags profusely decorated with American colors were in waiting, and as 
our party, wearing their straw hats with the red, white and blue bands, 
mounted these and drove up Collins Street they attracted general 
attention and not a few cheers. 

We finally drew rein at the Town Hall, where Mayor Benjamin and 
members of the City Council were to receive us. In front of the 
imposing building a crowd of between two and three thousand people 
had assembled, and after elbowing our way across the sidewalk we 



I lO 



J HEARTY WELCOME. 



passed up stairs into the great audience hall, in which has been con- 
structed one of the grandest pipe organs I ever looked upon or listened 
to. The town organist, Mr. David Lee, treated us to some beautiful 
music, there being more than one grave face and wet eye among our 
party as the lovely strains of "Home, Sweet Home," filled the hall. 
We all arose and removed our hats as the oro-an sounded " God Save 
the Queen." We then passed into the Mayor's private room, where a 
generous collation had been prepared. Among those present to receive 




TOWN HALL OF MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA. 



US were the Hon. Mr. Choppin, Consul-General of the United States at 
the Melbourne Exposition ; Mr. Smyth, Acting Consul ; the Hon. J. B. 
Patterson, D. Gaunson and Messrs. Chas. Smith and Pierce, with a 
large number of sport patrons, cricketers and footballers. The Mayor 
welcomed us in a plain-spoken, hearty speech, referring to the pleasure 
it gave him to address such a party of Americans, who had come so 
far for the purpose of making Australians familiar with the game for 



TOASTS AND ADDJiESSES. 



Ill 



which so much was claimed in so great a country as the United States. 
He could assure them of a hearty welcome to Melbourne, and trusted 
that they would have only pleasant remembrances of the Colonies to 
take away with them when they returned to their own country. Pleasant 
words by the Hon. Mr. Smith on behalf of the Victorian Cricket 
Association, by Mr. Smyth, Acting United States Consul, by Mr. S. P. 
Lord, who was designated 
as "an old colonist from 
America since '53," and a 
"baseballer," followed ; and 
then Mr. Spalding, after be- 
ing enthusiastically cheered, 
properly expressed his ap- 
preciation of so cordial a 
welcome, and expressed a 
hope that Victorians would 
take as kindly to our game 
as they had to its expo- 
nents. Captain Ward and 
Captain Anson were each 
called upon, and then Frank 
Lincoln brought down the 
house, as he always did, 
by mixing one of his in- 
imitable cocktails. Toasts 
were drunk to the Victorian 
Cricket Association, and 
were followed by brief 
addresses by Major War- 
dell, Town Clerk Fitz- 

gibbon, Mr. David Scott, and others, and after three parting cheers 
and a " tigah " for the Mayor and the reception committee, we were 
driven to our hotel, where we secured much-needed rest and a good 
dinner. We were quartered at the Grand Hotel, from the doors of which 
could be seen the Exposition Buildings, and opposite which were the 
Treasury Building, Parliament Building and the Fitzroy Gardens. In 




MAJOR WARDELL, SECRETARY VICTORIAN CRICKET 
ASSOCIATION. 



112 AT THE THEATRE. 

Melbourne, the Grand, the Federal and other of the most magnificent 
hotels of the city are termed " Coffee Palaces." They are splendidly 
equipped, and, in the way of appointments, surpass anything we had 
met with since leaving Chicago. The boys certainly had little to 
crumble at in their accommodations at Melbourne. 

No plans having been laid for our journey beyond Melbourne — the 
Victorian Capital having originally been our objective point — we all 
looked upon it as a temporary home at least, and it was with a feeling 
of o-reat relief from the almost constant travel of over ten thousand 
miles that the boys unpacked their trunks in their pleasant rooms at 
" The Grand." That same evening we accepted an invitation from Mr. 
Musgrove, a partner of Mr. Williamson, of the Royal Theatre in Syd- 
ney, and one of the famous theatrical firm of Williamson, Garnier & 
Musgrove, to attend the Princess Theatre, where an excellent English 
coi3ipany was producing " The Princess Ida." We occupied a full sec- 
tion in the Dress Circle, the fashionable section of all Colonial theatres, 
and the boys, as they appeared in their evening suits, were certainly a 
magnificent-looking body of men. At the end of the third act we were 
called out to one of the reception-rooms, where we met Mr. IMusgrove 
personally, and drank his health in a couple of cases of Monopole. The 
speechmaking was brief though heart}', and Mr. Musgrove informed us 
that the 'doors of his theatre were open to us at any and all times. It 
"\vas past midnight when we finally reached our rooms at the hotel. 

One feature of the Grand Hotel of which I had almost forgotten to 
speak was the numberofprett}' Colonial girls employed in almost every 
department of the big hotel. They answered the ring of one's electric 
bell, they hovered over one at the table in the dining-hall, they took one's 
order in the cafe, they did ever^'thing and anything, save handling the 
baggage and filling the duties of a porter. One of the boys — of course, it 
was Fogarty — made a ten-strike with these maidens within five minutes 
after his arrival among them, and during the balance of our stay at the 
Grand he came prettj^ near getting anything he wanted, from a cafenoir, 
ser\'ed in his room, to a lunch at midnio:ht. When he arrived he found, 
upon reaching his room, that his trunk had not been sent up ahead of 
him. With characteristic impulsiveness he stepped into the hall and 
rang every electric bell in sight, with the result that half a dozen 



"ME KINGDOM FOR ME TRUNK." 113 

maidens were at his door within a minute after. "Me trunk," ex- 
claimed Fogarty, in a dramatic tone; "me kingdom for me trunk." 

"Why! hasn't it come up yet?" 'inquired a curly-headed bell-boyess. 

"In truth, no," replied Fogarty; "and now look here. lam the Star 
of this combination — the Star, do you understand? and me trunk I 
must have, or there'll be no ball game here on Saturday. Now, do I 
get my trunk, or don't I ?" 

There was forthwith a flutter of skirts and a patter of feet, and five 
minutes later the porter stumbled into Foge's room with two heavy 
trunks, while the rest of the boys were awaiting theirs in the regular 
course of events. 

Among the first to meet the Press representatives of our party were 
the newspaper men of Melbourne, among whom I saw most of Messrs. 
Linck, of the Sportsman, McDonald and Kendall of the Herald, and 
Harry Hedley of the Age, all good fellows, and all interested in seeing 
baseball established in Melbourne, and throughout the Colonies. 

Our first game at Melbourne took place upon the second day after 
our arrival, and our professional dehit in Victoria could scarcely have 
been a more brilliant and auspicious one. Speaking of the event after- 
Avard, with Major Wardell, of the Melbourne Cricket Club, and others, 
they informed me that no such large and enthusiastic gathering 
of Melbournites had taken place at the Melbourne Oval since the 
palmiest days of Cricket in Victoria, and, certainly, I have never seen a 
prettier picture on race course or ball field, even in America, than 
that which offered itself upon the Melbourne Cricket Grounds on the 
occasion of our initial appearance. The sky was of the bluest, and the 
turf carpet upon the carefully-tended field was of the greenest. Away 
over across the waters of the Yarrow the towers and battlements of 
Government House arose in picturesque silhouette against the sky, while 
the pretty villas of St. Kilda could be seen further down the stream. 
The lawn in front of the Club House was occupied by numbers of 
pretty women, dressed in light-colored gowns and carrying bright-hued 
sunshades. The Club House balconies were crowded, and two hundred 
members, together with their ladies, had found seats upon the roof. The 
Grand Stand was packed, both chairs and aisles being full, while the 
crowd of people which encircled the field from the far end of the Grand 



114 



A BRILLIANT GAME. 



Stand to the Club House grounds averaged from thirty to forty deep. 
In short, we played to pretty nearly twelve thousand people, and the 
degree of interest they manifested in the game was a gratifying surprise 
to each and every member of our party. The game, though not an 
errorless one, was of the brilliant order. The base-running would 
have made even an American crowd of old-time ball lovers grow 
enthusiastic, and when Fogarty, Manning, Hanlon, Pettit, Carroll and 
Geo. Wood gave some exhibitions of base-sliding, of which they are 
so thoroughly capable, the big crowd stood up and yelled itself hoarse, 
while it waved wildly everything wavable that it could get its hands 
upon. Baldwin and Crane each pitched a pretty game, the hits standing 




GRAND STAND OF THE MELBOURNE CRICKET GROUND. 



seven to eight, and the score being tied three and three up to the 
seventh inning. Chicago finally got a man across the plate in the 
seventh, as a result of Burns' three-bagger, followed by Baldwin's 
sinele, then earned another run in the eighth, as a result of Sullivan's 
single and Anson's great three-bagger to right centre, "Anse " being 
put out at the plate by Brown's magnificent throw from the outfield upon 
trying to make a home-run off his hit. Tom Brown's running, which to 
me has always been one of the prettiest features of the games in which 
the Californian takes part, caught the Australians to a man, and many 
of them expressed a wish that Brown might enter for the foot-racing 



THE GUESTS OF AN ACTOR. 



115 



events there. Altogether, it was a great illustration of the beauties of 
the American national game, and the newspaper comments, while not 
altogether eulogistic, were still of a character very gratifying to those 
of us who had somewhat anxiously awaited the criticisms of the Mel- 
bourne press. 

If the big, fine-looking fellows of our party had excited interest upon 
their arrival at Melbourne, they were made far more of after their game 
than before, for on the diamond the Melbournites had had an opportu- 














'f^/P .,- 



THE BIG, FINE-LOOKING FELLOWS OF OUR PARTY. 
(Photographed at Melbourne.) 

nity of seeing the splendid physical development of the boys and their 
skill as athletes — qualities of manhood which are not valued higher 
anywhere than in Victoria, and, in fact, throughout Australia. That 
evening, after their game, the boys were entertained by Mr. Charles 
Warner, an English actor of note, at that time touring Australia. It 
was with the desire to meet the boys and do what he could to make it 
pleasant for them, that he extended to them an invitation to dine at 
the Maison Dore, the Delmonico's of Melbourne, and the dinner was 



Il6 SOUND ADVICE. 

certainly a charming success in ever)- \va)-. Tliere were some gems in 
the way of after-dinner speeches, among which was one by Fogart\", 
the centre fielder's native Irish wit leaving every man doubled up with 
laughter when he finally took his seat. Ot course there were also pretty 
references to Americans, to the profession of ball-playing, and to the 
character of our visit to Australia, and when, at eleven o'clock, the boys 
shook hands with their generous host they had recorded the event as one 
of the pleasantest of the trip. Although the dinner had been a treat 
indeed, and although Mr. Warner was the prince of hosts, a pleasant 
little supplement to the affair, coming unexpectedly, as it did, added 
still further to the evening's program. Joe Thompson, by far the best- 
known man of his calling in Australia, and well known throughout 
England and America as a successful and wealthy bookmaker, invited 
a number of Mr. Warner's guests to his rooms at the Grand Hotel, 
and, with the assistance of his charmino^ wife and beautiful dausfhters, 
made the "wee sma' " hours memorable ones for each of his 
Sfuests. 

Shortly after breakfast on the following morning. President Spalding 
called the boys together in the big reading-room of the hotel, and 
announced to them definitely his intention of returning home by way of 
Egypt, the Mediterranean and Continental Europe. Had it not been 
Sunday morning, the cheers which filled the boys' throats at this 
.announcement would have been let out for all they were worth, and even 
as it was, the room was filled with bursts of applause, while every man 
looked enthusiastically happy. President Spalding spoke frankly and 
in a manner that evidently interested all. He told the boys that they 
were going to strange countries, and among strange people, and that 
they would have to be discreet as to their habits, if only to maintain their 
good physical health. He wanted to land the boys in New York sound 
and well, and with only pleasant recollections of the tour, and he hoped 
that each and every member of the party would cooperate with him to 
this end. WHien the boys finally quit the reading-room they adjourned 
to the hotel rotunda and spent the balance of the morning in discussing 
the experiences they would probabl}^ enjoy during the remainder of the 
tour — now to become a tour around the world. The trip to Australia 
in itself had been a stupendous affair in the eyes of us all, and now we 



OVERWHELMED WITH ATTENTIONS. 



117 



Stood upon the threshold of an experience that falls to the lot of but a 
favored few, and it naturally aroused delightful anticipations. 

Will Lynch, our advance agent, had left a day or two before for 
Adelaide, to overtake the P. & O. Line steamer there for Calcutta. He 
went to look the ground over and determine whether or not it would be 
advisable for us to go across to India and Bombay, or to cut that country 
and put in our time in Southern Europe. I met Lynch in the office of 
the hotel on the afternoon of his departure, and, with Yankee sangfroid^ 
he shook hands with me, as he said, " Good-bye, old boy; won't see you 
again for a while ; I'm going over to India to-night." Only a little jour- 
ney of three weeks, covering sixty-four hundred miles across the Indian 
Ocean. It is indeed wonderful how time and distance lose their awe- 
inspiring proportions to the American who has traveled oceans as he has 
before traveled States in his own country ! 

Overwhelmed with attentions of all kinds, enjoying courtesies at the 
hands of the press, and being the recipients of public and private ban- 
quets and dinner parties without end, the boys did not suffer for lack of 
means for enjoyment, aside from their ball-playing, during the stay in Mel- 
bourne. Indeed, they gradually fell into the custom of getting into their 
dress suits every evening about six o'clock, so that they appeared in the 
hotel corridors for dinner in full evening dress, and were thereafter ready 
for the theatre or any other form of entertainment that might come up. It 
was a good departure, and did much, together with the demeanor of the 
men, to impress Australians favorably. The great Exposition Buildings 
were not neglected, and though scarcely so extensive or accessible as 
the Exposition since held in Paris, they were still a grand exhibit which 
attracted almost every Australian and tourist in the country. 

None of us, probably, will ever forget Christmas of 1888, spent as it 
was in Melbourne, with the temperature standing at 90 degrees, and 
ourselves, as were all others in the city, attired in suits of flannel or 
some other equally cool-looking texture. The store windows were 
filled with displays of toys and Christmas gifts, and all day and evening 
the streets were thronged with purchasers, just as was, doubtless, the 
case at home, but amid surroundings so entirely different from any- 
thing we had ever experienced that we were struck with the novelty 
of it all. 



iiS 



A FINE GAME. 



Our second game, played the day before Christmas in the presence 
of about 6000 people, pleased the crowd immense!)'. It was one of 
those hard-hittingf o-ames that we sometimes see at home durino- the 
Championship season when an opposing team have dropped to the 
delivery of an unfortunate pitcher and are pounding him all over the 
field. In this game, however, both pitchers — Ryan and Healy — were 
the sufferers, and the batting was exceedingly lively from start to finish. 
The crowd showed its appreciation by standing up and cheering when 




THE EXPOSITION BUILDING AT MELBOURNE. 



the ball was batted into far out-field, or sending up a great roar of 
laughter when some of our crack base-runners tore the top off the green 
turf for a distance of ten feet or more in a desperate slide to the base. 
The boys seemed to partake of the spirit of the crowd and slugged the 
ball and ran bases until they were completely tired out. Following the 
game, the " Professor " gave his first ascent and drop with a parachute 
on Australian soil. It was certainly a thrilling exhibition, and caused 



THE MASCOT MAKES A SENSATION. 



119 



the big crowd, which had never witnessed anything of the kind before, 
to stand in open-mouthed wonder, for Bartholomew was an artist and 
did his work well. At St. George's Theatre that evening a baseball 
farce, written for the occasion, was put upon the stage, and all of our 
party attended. A feature of the performance was the baton twirling and 
plantation dancing of Clarence Duval, the little darkey being encored 
again and again, and made the recipient each time of a shower of silver, 
besides a substantial recompense from the manager of the theatre. 

Christmas day we departed from Melbourne for Adelaide. It was 
one of the hottest days we had experi- 
enced in Australia, and the boys turned 
out about ten o'clock attired in neglige 
shirts, belts, flannel suits and tennis 
shoes. We left for the Spencer Street 
Station at three o'clock, and were de- 
lighted to find, instead of the stuffy little 
English apartment cars we had expected, 
well appointed "Mann Boudoir cars," 
provided with all the comforts we could 
have expected in a railway carriage at 
home ; riding, therefore, was not only 
comfortable but delightful. Four hours 
after leaving Melbourne we stopped at 
Ballarat, where we were to play after 
our visit to Adelaide, and found a com- 
mittee of citizens, together with any num- 
ber of pretty girls, at the station to 
meet us. Of course the depot rang 
" tigahs," before our train finally pulled 
ride across Victoria and 




PROFESSOR BARTHOLOMEW. 



mterestmo- 



with American cheers and 
out for the balance of our 
South Australia. We saw no 
kangaroos along the road, as we had fondly anticipated, but we did see 
rabbits by the thousands. Rabbits in such numbers and of such sizes 
as we had never before imagined existed anywhere. As our train 
proceeded, they jumped out of stone piles, fence corners, clumps of 
grass and from every conceivable hiding-place, not singly, but in 
droves, until we could easily understand how these little pests in such 



I20 A WARM CHRISTMAS. 

numbers had proved a curse to Australian farmers. The country is 
picturesque and attractive, though by no means thickly settled. Fruit 
grows luxuriantly, and at every station the boys purchased sacks of 
luscious cherries and apricots, with which we gorged ourselves until we 
were sleepy. Ed Crane, who had not thrived under the hot sun of 
Australia, and the ladies of the party had been left behind us at 
Melbourne. 

We arrived at Adelaide the day after Christmas, about half-past ten 
o'clock. And was it hot? At first the heat seemed unbearable, but we 
gradually became accustomed to it and had forgotten it soon after 
reaching our cool-looking hotels. Upon our arrival at the depot, we 
were met by United States Consul Murphy and other citizens, and 
driven directly to the town hall, where we were welcomed to the city by 
Mayor Shaw. His Worship's address was a warm one, and the response 
of President Spalding equally hearty. After the hand-shaking was 
over we were ushered into His Worship's private room, back of the 
Council Chamber, where a long white-draped table groaned under a 
load of champagne bottles, sandwiches, Milwaukee beer and baskets of 
fruit. It was a welcome sight indeed after our long and dusty ride, and 
we fell to in earnest, winding up with a " shake-down " from Clarence 
and a bit of cheering that must have convinced Adelaideans that we 
"had our voices with us." Then we bade good-morning to His Worship 
and were driven to our hotels, the York, the Prince Alfred and the 
South Australian, at all of which quarters had been secured. 

Our first game took place that afternoon, and it being the opening 
day of the races in Melbourne, not over 2000 people were present. 
The Adelaide Oval is equal to those of Sydney and Melbourne so far 
as the condition of the grounds is concerned, but the buildings do not 
compare with those on the grounds of the former cities. It is about ten 
minutes' drive from the hotels, over an even road, past a pretty artificial 
lake and beyond a well-kept park, a number of handsome residences 
overlooking the grounds from surrounding hills. The afternoon, though 
hot, was a good one for ball-playing, and the crowd applauded the 
batting and base-running — about the only points they seemed to under 
stand. The game was of a decidedly heavy-batting order, resulting in 
a victor)' for the All-Americas. 



I 



DRIVING WITH 7 HE MA YOU. I2r 

That evening, despite the fact that the boys were all tired out, we 
accepted the invitation of Messrs. Williamson, Garnier and Musgrove 
to witness " The Magistrate," by an excellent English Company at the 
Royal Theatre. The boys, in evening dress, occupied the Governor's 
Box, a favor rarely extended to visitors, and it is needless to say were 
the observed of all observers during the evening, the house being 
crowded, and ladies as well as gentlemen being attired in evening 
costume. 

Perhaps the most delightful experience we enjoyed in South Australia 
was that of the following morning, when at half-past ten o'clock we 
assembled at the Town Hall to accept Mayor Shaw's invitation for a 
drive. A big four-horse drag with a black body and red wheels awaited 
us, and at eleven o'clock the driver cracked his long whip, the horses 
started, and the drag with our party bowled down the principal street 
of the city toward the Sea Beach road. The weather was much cooler, 
and the delicious breeze, coupled with some of the most picturesque 
scenery in South Australia, made every rod of our drive an enjoyable 
one. We sang, cheered, laughed at Fogarty's witticisms and cracked 
a good-natured joke at the expense of every pedestrian and eques- 
trian whom we happened to pass on the road until, at the end of a 
ten miles' spin, we drew up at the vineyard of Thomas Hardy & Sons, 
the largest grape and fruit raisers in Australia. Here we dismounted, 
partook of Mr. Hardy's generous hospitalit>^ were shown through 
the citron and almond groves, and then passed through the borders of 
the extensive vineyard, where bunches of delicious grapes hung upon 
all sides, and which the boys swallowed by the pound. We saw olives, 
lemons, oranges and almost every other form of tropical fruit growing 
in profusion, and finally explored the wine cellars near the house. 
Down into the great cool vaults we descended, winding about through 
the stone walls and big bulging casks, until we finally stopped in the 
" reception room " of the cellar, and drank glass after glass of delicious 
wine drawn from bottles thick with dust and cobwebs. With our wine 
were served ripe figs, big juicy globules of fruit, and the finest olives I 
ever tasted, and down in this wine cellar we gave, in honorof our hosts, 
three cheers that made the old walls ring, not forgetting to add three 
more when we mounted our drag and bid the beautiful vineyards 



122 THE GOVERNOR'S COMPLIMENTS. 

farewell. From the vineyard we drove to Henley Beach, on the shore 
of the ocean, and spent half an hour in picking up the delicate shells 
from the wave-washed sands, in quaffing mugs of ale as we sat upon 
the balcony of the Beach Inn, and in looking out over the grand old 
ocean. Then we remounted for a delightful drive back to the city, and 
for our game of the afternoon. At our second game the attendance was 
better, and the playing was especially marked by some great base- 
running. Fogartjy-, Ward, Pfeffer, Hanlon, Pettitand Ryan distinguished 
themselves by some exhibitions of base-sliding which made the crow'd 
applaud enthusiastically. Chicago won handily. 

The following day being the fifty-second anniversary of South Aus- 
tralia's existence as a Colony, it was generally observed throughout the 
countr}\ The Australians, by the way, are great people for holidays, 
and, like the English, improve everjf opportunity to indulge in one. As 
Ave were to leave that afternoon, we played our farewell game in the 
morning, beginning at ten o'clock, in the presence of a very good crowd, 
the result being an easy victor)' for Anson's forces. After the game 
Sir William Robinson, Governor of the Colony, who had witnessed four 
or five innings of the play, stepped upon the oval and shook hands with 
each member of both teams, afterward welcomino- them in a neat little 
speech, in which he complimented the boys upon their physical prowess 
and skill upon the field, and expressed his interest in the game as he 
had seen it dernonstrated. After A. G.'s response and our inevitable 
trio of cheers, we mounted our drags and drove back to the hotel. 

Few days of our journey had been more prolific of events than that 
following the day of our departure from x^delaide. W'e entered the depot 
at Ballarat in the morning at six o'clock, and found a committee of 
citizens and a four-horse drag waiting to receive us. \\'hen w^e were all 
in our seats upon the top of the conveyance, A. G., as the boys had 
begun to familiarly address Mr. Spalding, missed Tom Daly, and on 
going back to the train, found him sleeping soundly in one of the apart- 
ment coaches and securely locked in by the guard. Where he would 
have found himself at the end of his nap, had we not found him, it is 
difficult to say, but President Spalding, after a deal of hard work, found 
a guard to unlock the door and succeeded in getting Tom out upon the 
platform. Probably none of us have since forgotten what a funny look- 



I 



SEEING THE MINES. 1 23 

ing object the Chicago catcher was as he stumbled out of the depot with 
bis hair awry and with one eye open, making his way to the drag, which, 
after several vain attempts, he mounted. Tom was not the only one of 
us who wished that Pullman sleeping-coaches had been introduced into 
the Colonies before the date of our arrival. 

The sun was just coming up over the housetops as we rattled through 
the streets of the awakening town, and finally drove up to the doors of 
Craig's Hotel. We made our toilets hastily and repaired to the break- 
fast room, where the Reception Committee had arranged for us a lay- 
out of hot coffee, sandwiches, chowchow pickles, and the inevitable 
brandy and soda, and in characteristically liberal quantities. We finally 
endeavored, after making an attempt to cheer our Reception Committee 
— an attempt, by the way, which ended in a disconnected and very 
sleepy "Rah-Rah" — to retire to our rooms for a very badly-needed nap, 
but that privilege was not to be allowed us. The Reception Committee 
piled us upon the drag again, and we started for the Botanical Gardens. 
The drive was a beautiful one, and the fresh air of the morning served 
to awaken us more thoroughly than anything else could have done. Our 
route lay along the shores of the extensive lake that penetrates the resi- 
dence district, and then along the borders of the most beautiful public 
gardens I had ever seen. We dismounted at the main gate and spent 
half an hour looking and admiring the beautiful groups of statuary and 
the flowers. Our ride beyond the gardens was in a gircle, so that at 
the end of two hours we were not far from our starting-point. Before 
pulling up at the hotel, however, we had a bath in the great Ballarat 
Swimming Aquarium, which refreshed us thoroughly and put us all in 
the best of spirits. On our return to the Craig a good breakfast awaited 
us, which we had scarcely swallowed when we were asked to mount the 
drag for another drive. This time we drove to the Barton Gold Mines, 
on the edge of the town. After attiring ourselves in overalls, canvas 
jackets, slouch hats and rough boots, we took a trip to the bottom of the 
mine, 1 100 feet below the surface. Some of the make-ups of our party 
were indeed laughable : Captain Anson looked like a railway section 
boss, Bob Pettit like a day laborer, and A. G. like the king of a "white 
cap " organization. Our rough apparel filled the bill, however ; for if there 
is a wet and slimy place on this earth — or rather, beneath it — it is the 



I-H 



THE TWO MAYORS. 



lower end of an Australian gold-mine shaft. A gold mine is not unlike 
a coal mine in appearance, and there was really litde to see save the 
shadowy forms of the miners, with their ghostly-looking head lamps, and 
the dripping walls of stone and timber. Still, it was something to have 
gone to the bottom of such a cavern, and all of us were interested in 
the journey. 

From the mine we were driven to the Town Hall. Ballarat, by the 
way, is divided into two municipalities : East and West Ballarat. Each 




THE BOI'ANICAL GARDENS, THE PRIDE OF SYDNEY, N. S. \V. 



has its separate town officers and town hall. We first called upon the 
Mayor of West Ballarat, Ma)or Macdonald, and enjoyed the same 
course of feasting and wine-drinking that we had enjoyed in other Aus- 
tralian cities. W^e then bowled through the town to East Ballarat, where 
we were the recipients of another "lay-out" and hearty welcome at 
the hands of Mayor Ellsworth. Mayor Ellsw^orth, how^ever, went still 
further : he mounted our tally-ho with us, and drove us to the Ballarat 



THE PROFESSOR'S RAPID DESCENT. 1 25 

Orphan Asylum, where we amused ourselves by throwing shilling pieces 
into the waters of the bath-houses for a hundred little boys to dive for. 
Then we drank more wine — this time with the officers of the Institu- 
tion, and finally drove back to our hotel, tired out, but possessed of a 
fair idea of Ballarat, its people, its hospitality and its environs. Presi- 
dent Spalding, by the way, invited all the youngsters of the Asylum to 
the game, and they attended that afternoon, two hundred strong. 

A great crowd for Ballarat — nearly 4500 — assembled to see our game 
that afternoon, and showed their appreciation of it by staying until the last 
man had been put out. The game was a good one, All-America taking the 
lead in the sixth inning as a result of a pretty streak of batting that was 
not thereafter broken. The crowd was quick to discover and appre- 
ciate the good points in the fielding and batting, and before three innings 
were completed, were applauding heartily. The sensation of the after- 
noon, however, was the ascent and fall of Professor Bartholomew. The 
light air of the high altitude would not sustain his weight, and the para- 
chute fell with great rapidity for over two thousand feet. It descended 
in the centre of the business district, the professor striking the cornice 
of a roof, and gouging himself in a manner that laid him up for a month 
thereafter. Altogether, he met with a very narrow escape. Our de- 
parture was taken at seven o'clock that evening for Melbourne, and the 
five hours' ride to the Victorian Capital in the English compartment 
cars was certainly the most fatiguing one we had yet experienced. The 
boys looked a bit knocked out when they came down to breakfast next 
morning- but the invigorating- cold showers, with which our hotel was 
wonderfully well provided, had an exhilarating effect, and we entered 
upon the day's programme, it being Sunday, with avidity. 

At eleven o'clock we moupted two big four-horse drags, with the 
weather as fine as I have ever seen it in Australia, and started upon a 
twenty-five mile drive to the mountains. A Mr. J. H. Downer, a promi- 
nent and wealthy citizen of Melbourne, had asked us to be his guests 
for the day, and from the moment we left the hotel we were in his 
hands. Mrs. Leigh Lynch had her cornet with her, and as we rolled 
along over the country road, the " Tally-ho, tally-ho-ho " from her clear- 
sounding instrument caused many pedestrians to stop and gaze curi- 
ously at our big party in our gay-colored, light flannel suits, and red. 



126 AT "FEUN GLEN.'' 

white and blue rimmed hats. \\'e saw more of the country surround- 
ing Melbourne on that drive than at any time during our stay. It is 
rolling, well settled and picturesque until one gets into the bush land, 
when it is, like all other Australian bush districts, covered with scrub 
and possessed of no beaut}' of scenery whatever. The scrub, however, 
was finally passed, and we then entered the woodland at the foot of the 
mountains. High upon a hill sat a pretty villa surrounded by rolling 
lawns and prettily appointed outbuildings, a sort of oasis in the wild 
wilderness. From the top of one of the buildings floated an American 
flag, and we gave it a rousing yell as we passed it. Several handker- 
chiefs fluttered from the balcony of the house, and then a turn in the 
road hid the scene from view. 

After an hour's ride we entered a picturesque rift in the mountains, 
and soon were sitting on the broad balcony of ]\Ir. Bruce's house at 
"Fern Glen." A prettier bit of mountain scenery could scarcely be 
imagined. Giant trees arose on every side of the towering mountain, 
and Islr. Bruce's house and artistically laid out grounds appeared on the 
sides of the hill as if photographed there, with the mountain's growth 
as a frame work. j\lr. Bruce, a friend of Mr. Downer, had gladly con- 
sented to entertain our part}', and a big wagon-load of wines and 
delicacies had been sent out ahead of us that mornino-. The lono- table, 
with its load of good things, which had been set upon the balcony, was 
a welcome sight to our hungry crew, and we were not long in getting 
at it. It was a rich spread, embracing everything from champagne to 
soda and from roast turkey to sardines, and that we left little of it upon 
the table it is unnecessar}' to say. After dinner we took a v.-alk 
through the beautiful glen above the house, our pathway being 
arched with grreat ferns that rose from twelve to fifteen feet hig-h on each 
side of us, while a mountain stream, of crystal-like water, wound its 
way between their roots. At the head of the glen we seated our- 
selves upon a mammoth old moss-covered log, and listened to the 
" Star Spangled Banner " from Mrs. Lynch's cornet. 

An hour later, at the house, Clarence Duval gave us another of 
his Alabama shakedowns to a guitar and mandolin accompani- 
ment, and then with three cheers for Fern Glen, we turned our 
faces toward Melbourne. En route, we passed the stock farm of J. 



AMERICAN TROTTERS. i^j 

J. Miller, who has undertaken the breeding of American trotting horses 
from imported mares and sires, on Victorian soil. It was he who had 
displayed the American flag to our gaze on the way out, and he now 
sent a messenger to ask us up to the house. It was late, but we could 
not refuse an invitation so offered. Upon dismounting we were cor- 
dially greeted, and were then shown the stock — Architect, by Con- 
tractor ; Red Wind by Red Wilkes ; Lucretia, by Mambrino Boy, Jr., 
and representatives of other equally celebrated strains. Then we 




A JOLLY PARTY AT FERN GLEN. 



were wined and toasted upon the broad balconies of mine host's pretty 
residence. Another exhibition of plantation dancing from Clarence, 
and more heartfelt cheering, and we bowled down the road, leaving 
mine host Miller standing at the gate. The "Travelers' Rest," the 
"Golden Swan," "Bull's Head Inn," and like hostelries were stopped 
at on our way back, for rest and refreshments, and we finally dis- 
mounted at eleven o'clock that evening in front of the Grand Hotel,, 
where we shook hands with Mr. Downer, our host of the day. 



128 



RAIN SPOILS THE SPORT. 



An enticing programme had been scheduled for the last day of the 
year, but unfavorable weather partly spoiled it. The Carleton and St. 
Kilda Football teams were to play a game of football, Victorian rules, 
upon the pretty grounds of the St. Kilda's. Then our team was to play 
a game of ball with a team picked from the Melbourne cricketers, and 
the programme was to wind up with a game of football between the 
St. Kilda's and twenty of the Americans. The football game between 

*.mi ' '■■^ -Hg ia the Australians proved a 




interestmsf contest. 



nost 

There was a big crowd 
present, and much enthu- 
siasm was manifested. The 
rules are a modification 
even of our most modified 
American college rules, 
and contain many points 
that make the Australian 
game in every way the 
most interesting of any 
football game I ever wit- 
nessed. As the fun pro- 
ceeded our boys realized 
that we could make little 
show against the Austra- 
ans, but they had no op- 
portunity of testing their 
ability, as a heavy rain put 
a stop to the afternoon's 
sport. 

Two games were sched- 
uled for New Year's da)^ but only one full game was played — that of 
the morning. The attendance was light, not more than 2000 people 
being present, and considering that there were 40,000 people present 
at the race-track, and as many more at the various cricket and athletic 
games going on about Melbourne, this attendance for a ball game 
in Australia was not unsatisfactory. President Moore, of the Victorian 



ABORIGINAL AUSTRALIAN WOMAN AND BABE. 



BOOMERANG THROWING. 



120 



Jockey Club, had invited our entire party to tlie races, but, as we were 
unable to procure a conveyance of any kind, we could not accept, 
and remained at the cricket grounds, where the pure air and beautiful 
surroundings, together with an elaborate lunch set out for us by Secre- 
tary Wardell, of the Melbourne Club, was greatly enjoyed. 

After the lunch an exhibition of boomerang-throwing and rope-skip- 
ping was given for the entertainment of the crowd and our party by a 
number of aboriginals, and i 
it was certainly a treat, at 
least to the Americans 
present. The degree of 
skill attained by the black- 
faced, bushy-haired Queens- 
landers in the use of the 
boomerang is certainly re- 
markable. That afternoon, 
half a dozen big fellows 
performed feats with the 
peculiar Australian weapon 
which our party had fre- 
quently read of, but had 
never before credited. The 
light " V "-shaped piece of 
wood, with its sharp edges, 
shot from the hands of the 
natives into the air for a 
distance of two or three 
hundred feet, and then, 
turning suddenly, described 
perhaps half a dozen circles 

about the head of the thrower, gradually narrowing the circle until it 
fell almost at his feet. Again it would go out in a direct line and 
return in a line as direct, passing over the head of the thrower and 
returning back again to the spot upon which he stood. The skipping- 
rope performance, with which the natives are wont to amuse them- 
selves, was quite a grotesque and yet clever performance, the per- 
9 




ABORIGINAL Al'blRALIAN MAN AND BOY \V1 1 H BooMliRANG. 



I30 



CONSTERNA TION. 



formers assuming all kinds of queer postures, and yet never failing 
to raise their bodies from the ground, and at the proper moment, to 
permit of the rope passing under them at regular intervals. Several 
of the boys tried their hands at boomerang throwing, and discovered 
how very little they knew of the use of the Australian weapon. After 
this exhibition, the Chicago team played an exhibition game with a team 
composed of Melbourne cricketers, and the crowd enjoyed this about 
as well, judging from their laughter and applause, as any game we 
played upon the Melbourne grounds. Rain stopped the play, however, 
and the players soon after returned to their hotel. 

January 5th was the day set for our last game in Australia, it having 
been decided to sail from Port Melbourne for Ceylon the following 
Monday afternoon. The intervening time was consequently put in as. 
the boys liked best, and in view of the long trip ahead of us there was 
much to do in the way of shopping. All articles of clothing are cheap 
in Australia, compared with our American prices, and nearly all of us 
laid in a generous provision of flannel suits, underwear and linen. 
Curios and mementoes characteristic of the country and people also 
took a fair share of our pocket money and attention. Most of us 
secured a kangaroo skin, an emu &'g'g, a lump of kauri gum, and 
photographs of the principal Australian cities. Many of the boys 
visited the American exhibit at the Exposition, which was quite exten- 
sive and altogether very creditable. 

The night before our departure, by the way, was an eventful one at 
the Grand Hotel. The two hundred and fifty guests had scarcely 
gotten into bed when the interior of the big court was illuminated by a 
red glow, and cries of "Fire," rang out upon the air. Consternation 
prevailed ; women screamed and men shouted. Manning, of the All- 
Americas, stuck his head out of the window to learn the trouble and 
received a champagne bottle on the back of his neck, which cut him 
badly. Others who followed Manning's example were drenched with 
water from the upper windows, and it soon became evident that some- 
body in the building was bent upon making the night interesting for 
every guest in the establishment. Among the first to hear the cries and 
be awakened by the lurid glare from the court were Fred Pfeffer and 
Clarence Duval, Clarence having curled up in a blanket on the floor of 



THE FIRE ALARM. 131 

Pfeffer's room. Fred jumped from the bed with one bound and made 
for the door, but stumbled over Clarence on the way. 

" Don't stop to talk, boy," cried Pfeffer, " but get out of here as quick 
as you can ; don't you see the hotel is on fire ? " 

At this, Clarence, seeing the glow, became panic-stricken and lost no 




A PRECIPITATE FLIGHT ON A FALSE ALARM. 



time — though, like Pfeffer, attired only in his abbreviated night robe — 
in following the second baseman out into the hall and down the stair- 
case, Pfeffer, doubtless actuated by humanitarian motives, calling " Fire," 
and pounding at the doors as he ran. Down the stairs went one 



132 "PEFFAH COULD RUN." 

section of Chicago's stone-wall in-field, seven steps at a time, closely 
followed by the little African, who was adding his cries to Pfeffer's. 
The cause, as it turned out, was simply the drunken spree of a couple 
of young tourists on the upper floor of the hotel, but it threatened for 
a time to be of a serious character, several ladies fainting and a number 
of others being greatly terrified by the uproar. When the excitement 
had finally subsided, and it was learned that the whole trouble had been 
caused by the burning of a red light on one of the window-sills, accom 
panied by the howls of the practical jokers, a crowd of angry men in 
night attire searched the halls, and many of the bed-rooms, for the per- 
petrators, but finally gave up the effort. Then they eagerly demanded 
to know who the man was who had gone through the halls yelling fire, 
and Pi'effer, in night attire like the balance of them, was as anxious as 
the rest to discover the identity of the villain, although it is said he was 
inwardly trembling at the time for fear that some one who had seen him 
as he was charitably arousing the guests from their slumbers by his 
warning cries, might point him out as the culprit. Clarence Duval was 
found crouching behind the big water-cooler in the office, trying hard to 
cover his black legs with a floor-rug. His only comment upon the 
entire performance was : " Befoh Gawd, I nevah knowed how fass 
Massah PefTah could run till to-night ; he nevah touched de floah fum 
de top of dem stairs clean to de bottom, an' I knows what I's talkin' 
.about, kase I was mighty cloas behin 'im." 

Our farewell game in Australia was played Saturday afternoon, and 
tlie assemblage of spectators present, both as to character and numbers, 
showed the interest which our visit had awakened in the American game. 
The day was a perfect one for field-sport exhibitions, and Avhen the great 
crowd of between eleven and twelve thousand had filed through the 
gates, surrounding the beautiful o\'al with a living framework of 
humanity, the scene was indeed brilliant. The programme was a varied 
one, opening with a two-inning game at three o'clock between the All- 
America team and a team of cricketers. As in previous engagements, 
between the Australians and Americans, the superiority of the latter in 
fielding was plainly apparent. In fact, the Australians were not in the 
game at all, but they worked hard and evinced the deepest interest in 
every 2:)oint of play. At half-past three o'clock, after the completion of 



GOOD AT THEIR GAME. 133 



two innings between the Australians and Americans, a football game 
between the Port Melbourne and the Carleton team began, and a prettier 
exhibition of the kind I have never seen. The Victorians have pruned 
down and modified the old Rugby rules in a style that has removed 
much of the danger to life and limb, while it has at the same time 
increased the opportunities for the display of skill, and has given the 
game a greater dash and vim than appear in our American college 
game. I have only one criticism to make of the Australian football 
teams, and that is this. If they were, as a body, to pay more attention 
to the selection and designs of their uniforms, they would be a much finer- 
looking set. The contrast between the becomingly uniformed ball-players, 
and the pick-up costumes of the footballers was much to the discredit 
of the latter. But they know how to play football, for all that ; and I 
imagine that there is a great deal of truth in the assertion that any 
football team from England, or America, that can go over there and 
beat the Australians at their own game, can carry away a cartload of 
money. 

Followingr the football Sfame, the Chicagos and All-Americas beean 
a five-inning ball game, which was as pretty an exhibition as any we had 
given since leaving Chicago. Baldwin and Daly, and Crane and Earle 
were the batteries, and they played ball for all they were worth. When 
game was called at the end of the fifth inning to clear the field for the 
long-distance throwing contest the score stood 5 to o in favor of Chi- 
cago, with not a fielding error on either side, every run of the five having 
been earned by Anson's men, and but one safe hit scored off Baldwin. 
The fleetest of the All-America base-runners were unable to steal a 
base on Daly or Baldwin, and it was equally true that the quickest throw- 
ers to bases in the league could not have stopped the Chicago men that 
day in their thieving practices. Crane and Earle never watched bases 
more carefully or more accurately, but it was to no purpose — Chicago 
was out for plunder and got all it wanted, through some of the prettiest 
base-sliding I ever witnessed. The crowd appreciated many points of 
the game, which they had not seen or understood at our opening 
exhibition ten days before, a fact made evident from the applause created 
over pretty pieces of work, and when Pettit finally ended the game with, 
a great running catch of Earle's long hit to right field, the big crowd 



U4 



THE RECORD BROKEN. 



applauded until the players had lifted their caps in front of the grand 
stand. 

The exhibition of long-distance throwing was not less interesting than 
the other portions of the programme, the object being to beat the five and 
one-half ounce Cricket Ball, Australian record, of 126 yards 3 inches. 
The effort was made by Crane, Williamson and Pfeffer, and was accom- 
plished by Crane, who sent the ball 12S yards lo^/^ inches. It was a 
magnificent throw, and elicited a yell of applause the moment the ball 
struck the ground, the crowd seemingly realizing that the record had 
been broken, before the measurements were taken. Neither William- 
son nor Pfefifer was in shape for throwing, the former failing to reach 
126 yards, and the latter falling several feet short of that. The Pro- 
fessor was to have concluded the day's sport with a parachute leap, but had 
not sufificiently recovered from his injuries sustained at Ballarat to make 
the attempt. It was nearly si.x o'clock w'hen the crowd filed through the 
gates and on through the beautiful Fitzroy Gardens toward town, the 
members of our part)' stopping at the Club House to bid farewell to 
IMajor Wardell and the cricketers, among whom the boys had made many 
friends during their stay. Our last evening in jNIelbourne was spent by 
some of the boys at the theatres, by others at IMartin Castello's resort, 
where there was a b.t of fun with the sfloves between middle weig-hts. 
Still others dropped in at the parlors of genial Joe Thompson, w'here 
music, Pomeroy Sec, and Joe's generous hospitalit)' made the evening a 
memorable one. 

On the following morning the boys came down to breakfast attired in 
purple and fine linen, realizing no doubt that it would be the last oppor- 
tunit)' for a display of their " store clothes" for some time to come. 
The rotunda of the Grand was crowded with people all day, many of 
them personal friends of the boys who had dropped in for a farewell 
chat. The day was beautiful, and some of us improved our time by a 
drive through the environs, or a stroll through Fitzroy Gardens, which 
were but a short walk from the hotel. The evening for the greater part 
w^as occupied in packing, and the following morning at 10.30 saw our 
luggage piled upon the two huge vans required to cart it to the depot. At 
three o'clock we drove to Port Melbourne Station, near Princess Bridge, 
where we took the train for Port Melbourne dock, seven miles distant. 



THE "SALIER: 



135 



This port gives superb accommodations for a fleet of fine sailing ves- 
sels and steamships, which cluster here from all quarters of the globe. 
Here lay the " Salier," one of the German Lloyd Steamers, which was to 
carry us across the Indian Ocean, and we were all soon comfortably settled 
in our respective state-rooms. Captain Thalenhorst and the Chief Stew- 
ard and Purser, with whom we were brought most in contact on board, 
were affable and pleasant Germans, and had made every preparation 
for our comfort. On the "Alameda" the steerage passengers occupied 
the steerage, and the first cabin and saloon passengers were sta- 
tioned amidships; On the "Salier," however, the steerage passengers 




THE "salier" at her DOCK AT I'UKT IIELCOUKN'E. 



occupied the forward deck, and the cabin and first-class passengers were 
given the entire after part of the boat. The quarter-deck was covered with 
a big awning, and this furnished a magnificent lounging place, which we 
enjoyed during our entire voyage through the tropics. It was learned 
that the " Salier " would probably not sail before daybreak, and some 
of the boys returned to the city, but the majority remained on the 
steamer. The scene from the dock that afternoon, with its score or 



136 A VARIED VOYAGE. 

more of bio^ sailing-vessels alontrside, its red-turban ed, dark-skinnedTurks 
and Hindoos in their queerly-l'ashioned costumes of bright-colored cloth, 
together with the warm sun, the blue waters of the bay over which sea 
birds circled and little crafts moved hither and thither, with the pictur- 
esque shores of St. Kilda on one side and the smoke of Melbourne on 
the other, offered interesting studies for all. We had dinner aboard the 
steamer. Afterwards we sought the deck, where with our cigars, musical 
talent, and the company of friends who had come down to the steamer 
to see us off, we easily managed to put in a pleasant evening. 

ON THE INDIAN OCEAN. 

The "Salier" sailed from her dock at Port Melbourne at daylight on 
the morning of January 8th, and steamed slowly down the harbor toward 
the great Australian Bight. We were now fairly under way upon what 
most of us remember as the most delightful ocean voyage of our tour. 
The first week was not so pleasant, for after leaving Port Adelaide, at 
which Ave stopped twelve hours, we encountered a cold, raw wind from the 
South Seas, and the ocean swell was disagreeably heavy. After we 
had passed this portion of the voyage, however, and began to near the 
tropics, the air became warm, the sky clear, and the sea smooth, until 
more delightful sailing could scarcely be imagined. The quarter-deck 
of the ship, with its open-windowed smoking- and card-room, formed 
the assembly place of our party from the breakfast hour until midnight, 
and then, as upon the Pacific Ocean, most of the boys preferred donning 
their pjamas, and sleeping in the big, easy steamer-chairs, to going to 
their state-rooms. We were protected during the day by the immense 
awning, and at night, with a tropical moon lighting the surrounding 
ocean and making clear everything about the ship, our mandolins and 
guitars were brought out for a musical soiree on deck, which lost none 
of its charm for our party because of its originality, or through lack of 
artistic practice. The officers of the ship could not have been kinder, 
and it was with real regret that we parted from them when we left the 
ship at Suez. 

There were probably 150 emigrants aboard, embracing Hindoos, 
Chinamen, Irishmen, Cingalese, Italians and Germans, and it was 
indeed interesting to take a walk through their quarters, and listen to 



THE BOYS "OWN THE SHIP: 



^37 



the babble of tongues that one heard upon all sides. On the forward 
deck and amidships were located the scullery, the store-rooms and the 
stock-pens of the ship in which were kept two fat milch-cows, a number 
of sheep and calves and beeves, which were killed as we needed them 
for the table during the voyage, to say nothing of porkers, chickens, 
pigeons, pheasants, quail and all other animals and fowls which the 
purser intended for con- 
sumption by the four hun- 
dred people aboard the 
ship. 

The cookine done on the 
" Salier " was really excel- 
lent, and meals were served 
in courses, which was at 
no time attempted on the 
"Alameda." The waiters 
were all German, and few 
of them spoke a single 
word of English, so that 
the attempts of some of 
our boys to make them- 
selves understood at table 
were laughable. Several 
of us, however, were Ger- 
man scholars, and man- 
aged to help the others in 
learning sufficient German 
to make themselves fairly 
understood. We missed 
Frank Lincoln on this trip, 
he having decided to re- 
main in Australia and take advantage of opportunities there offered. 
As there were not over half a dozen first-class passengers aboard in 
addition to our own party, we, figuratively speaking, owned the ship. 
The officers were not over-zealous in enforcing rules that might have 
been obnoxious or annoying to the boys and, in fact, allowed us to do 




CAPTAIN THALENHORST, OF THE "SALIER. 



138 AN EGOTISTICAL TRAVELLER. 

A'ery much as we chose, so that one was Hkel)" to hear a college chorus 
on deck at midnight, or to be startled during the quiet of the afternoon 
by a simultaneous cheer from a score of the boys in memory, perhaps, 
of our homes in far-off America. 

During the afternoon of the day of our departure, I took a stroll over 
the "Salier" from stem to stern, and made myself familiar with every 
corner of our good ship, and at the same time studied her by no means 
uninteresting congregation of passengers. In the first-class cabin there 
was, in addition to our party, an Australian lady, a resident of Mel- 
bourne, who was taking her two little daughters to Germany to be left 
at school. There were, also, a couple of young civil engineers, who 
were returning home to England after a year's sojourn in Australia. 
But by far the greatest character on board ship was a Mr. Theophilus 
Green, a portly, middle-aged, red-faced, bald-headed individual, who, 
according to his own stor)-, had an ample bank account, no kinsmen, 
and no object on earth but to hold himself up as a representative 
American among the various countries of the globe, which he visited as 
the whim or inclination might suit him to jump from Persia to Egypt, 
from Russia to South Africa, or from Iceland to Ceylon. He was a 
man possessed of quite a fund of interesting information, and yet his 
manner of impressing that fact upon all whom he met was so dis- 
agreeable that it detracted greatly, if it did not entirely destroy what 
would otherwise have made his companionship delightful. He had 
traveled all over the world, had seen everything, had mingled with 
almost every race of people under the sun, and possessed what 
must certainly have been a valuable collection of photographs of the 
■different peoples and countries he had seen ; but in the midst of an 
interesting description of Cairo, or Jerusalem and its people, he would 
suddenly break off to tell how smart he had been in evading the thiev- 
ing and bulldozing propensities of an Egyptian cabman, or a Syrian inn- 
keeper ; and, laying his finger upon the side of his nose, would devote 
five minutes perhaps to telling how vastly superior was his own cunning 
to that of the Cingalese, Neapolitan, or Muscovite beggars who had so 
often appealed to him for alms. He never failed, in his conversation, 
to impress one with the fact that in every country, and with whomso- 
ever he had been brought in contact, he declared himself to be a thor- 



TWO FELLOW-TRAVELLERS. 



139 



oughly " representative American." My chief regret was that our party 
of magnificent-looking fellows, with their liberal ideas, their love of fun, 
their fine physiques, and their genial, happy natures, were not going to 
some of the countries that Mr. Green had visited, so that, in the matter 
of representative Americans we might have shown those peoples the 
difference. We left the old fellow at Suez, when we departed from the 
^'Salier" to go to Cairo, but there is a lingering suspicion in my mind 
that Mr. Green would have been with us all through Egypt and Conti- 
nental Europe, but for the perhaps too brusquely offered snubbings 
Tvhich the majority of the boys extended. We never saw him afterwards, 
and he is probably knocking around the Orient at this writing, still 
posing as a " representative American." 

Among the second-cabin passengers were two young Australians, big, 
troad-shouldered, muscular-looking fellows, of whom we saw a good 
■deal as they paced the deck amidships for their daily exercise. They 
were bound for Zanzibar in Africa, and were to penetrate as far as pos- 
sible into the interior upon a hunting expedition, which they intended to 
■extend indefinitely as their health and success permitted. They were 
well equipped with weapons of modern construction and an unlimited sup- 
ply of ammunition. They anticipated a great time, but I do not think 
any of our party, even had the opportunity offered, would have joined 
these gentlemen in facing the wild beasts and still wilder savages of 
Central Africa. Think of it ! They expected to penetrate for 700 miles 
at least ; to be cut off from all connection of any and every kind with 
civilization ; to take their lives in their hands among savage tribes, who 
would be as likely to murder them for their weapons as not ; to face 
the dangers of climate and poisonous reptiles, and all for their love of 
adventure and their desire to slay the King of Beasts in his native lair. 
We accepted an invitation to break a farewell bottle with them in the 
cabin before they finally left us at Aden, the nearest point to which the 
" Salier " could take them in their journey to Zanzibar. I am still antici- 
pating a letter which will tell me of their first month's experience upon 
the dark continent. 

Our mascot, by the way, was a great object of interest to the German 
waiters aboard the "Salier." On the "Alameda" he had been made to 
do light chores of different kinds, that he might to some extent pay for 



I40 



CLARENCE OFFENDED. 



his passage, but on the "Salier" the German waiters attended to his 
wants as though he had been an Indian prince. Indeed, two of them 
got into a difficulty one evening over a dispute as to which should serve 
Mr. Duval at the table, and the captain made one of the poor beggars 
"walk the bridge" all night, by way of penalty. The young African 
finally began to entertain so exalted an opinion of his own importance, 
however, that Mr. Spalding quietly suggested to Captain Thalenhorst 
that it might be a good idea to keep the boy employed. Consequently, 




CLARENCE'S HUMILIATION AT THE PUNKA ROPE. 



he was set to work pulling the punka rope, which swings the big 
tapestry fans suspended over the saloon tables ; and thereafter, at meal 
time, the mascot sat on a chair at the end of the dining saloon pulling 
the rope, the picture of offended dignity, while the boys further added 
to his mortification by pegging an occasional ship's biscuit at him on 
the quiet. 

Our only stop between Port Melbourne and Ceylon was that made 



AMUSEMENTS ON SHIPBOARD. 



141 



at Port Adelaide, the second night after our departure. The Port is 
seven miles from Adelaide proper, a hot-looking little settlement, its 
buildings and streets apparently unsheltered by foliage of any kind, 
and we merely stopped to take on a cargo of South Australian wool. 
We did not finish loading, however, until two o'clock the following 
afternoon, and during the day em.ployed our time by fishing over the 
rail of the ship, playing shufifleboard, horse billiards, quoits, and other 
deck games that we had picked up on the Pacific. The fishing was 




not bad sport, and as 
a dozen of us were 
leaning over the stern amusements on shipboard. 

rail, watching the school of mackerel about our hooks, we were sud- 
denly startled by the appearance of a shark, a big fellow, certainly not 
less than fifteen feet long. He lazily rolled about the stern of the ship 
as though in search of food, and then passed slowly out of sight. Had 
there been a shark hook at hand we might have enjoyed some rare 



142 



THREE DISAGREEABLE DAYS. 



sport. Shortly afterward, the black dorsal fin of the shark was seen a 
hundred feet from our boat as he swam slowly along, and Fogarty, 
Ryan, Ward and myself got our revolvers and made things so uncom- 
fortable for his sharkship that he quickened his pace for the shore and 
was soon out of sight. After luncheon, we finished our loading and 
started on our trip across the Indian Ocean, not again to be interrupted 
until we had arrived in Ceylon. 

The ensuing three days were thoroughly disagreeable. The sky was 
hidden by low, scudding, lead-colored clouds, the water was lashed inta 
huge waves by a stiff wind, and a ground swell gave our ship a most 
uncomfortable motion. The ladies of the party, with the exception of 
Mrs. Williamson, who proved an excellent sailor during the entire tour 
of the world, did not appear on deck at all. Even Anson was pale and 
sick for the first time since leaving " Frisco." John Tener, Fred Pfeffer, 
the "Professor," myself, and the Mascot were the only ones who did not 
yield to sea-sickness. Fogarty's merry voice was hushed. He lay listlessly" 
on a steamer chair and sighed softly to himself About three o'clock 
in the afternoon he began to feel better and called for a cheese sandwich. 
A waiter appeared in a few moments with a big plate of sauerkraut and 
some steamed bologna sausages, thinking, no doubt, in the goodness of 
his German heart, that that which would please his own German stomach 
would best suit Fogarty's. " Foge " gave one horrified look at it and 
rolled upon the deck while he begged the Dutchman to take it away. 
Mrs. Anson fainted, and poor "Woody," Tom Brown, Ryan and Tom 
Burns all turned an idealic sea green at the same moment. John Tener 
fortunately happened along, however, and brought relief to the afflicted 
ones by grasping the tow-headed waiter by the coat collar and the slack 
of his trousers and hustling him, together with his plate, out of sight. 
It was rough and the temperature uncomfortably cool for fully four days 
during our journey through the Australian Bight, but after the ship had 
changed her course from an easterly to a northeasterly one, it began to 
grow warmer and the clouds gradually disappeared until the glorious 
sun of a southern clime warmed our party into life and genial temper. 
From thence on the weather grew more and more beautiful until, when 
we finally reached Ceylon, the Arabian Sea, and the Gulf of Aden, it 
could not jDossibly have been more delightful. 



A LITTLE WORLD AFLOAT. I4_, 

During our two weeks' voyage across the Indian, we were naturally- 
driven to every recourse for means of passing the time. In view of our 
journey through Egypt, and possibly through India, the boys devoted 
themselves studiously to such books of travel as "An Australian 
Abroad," "India, Historical and Descriptive," "Jerusalem and the Holy 
Land;" and others of like titles, but one could not read all day, and 
consequently each man of us utilized what ingenuity he possessed to hit 
upon some means of diversion. So soon as the weather became pleasant, 
we divided into groups of four or five and took a trip through the emi- 
grant quarters of the ship, which enabled us to realize, from what we 
saw, how complete a little world in itself is a big Ocean steamer. There 
were the cow stables, the pig pen, chicken coops, sheep pens, pigeon 
coops, and the quarters where our veal and beef supply was kept. The 
steerage passengers sat about the deck engaged in various character- 
istic occupations. The German women were knitting, the Italians 
engaged in mending some gaudy-colored article of clothing, and the red- 
turbaned Turks were patiently tracing out artistic patterns in colored 
silk and bead work, which they afterwards sold to the cabin passengers. 
Anson, with his usual luck, succeeded in winning a handsome silk pillow, 
beautifully embroidered, which had been raffled off by an old Hindoo at 
a shilling a chance. The Hindoos, by the way, are an interesting lot for 
study. There were several castes represented among the dozen aboard, 
and the rigidity with which the lines of distinction were drawn was 
remarkable. They would eat nothing cooked by the ship's crew. In their 
eyes all Europeans are infidels, whose hands must not defile the food of 
a Mohammedan, They therefore carried their own saucepans and did 
their own cooking, even killing a sheep every few days with their ovv^n 
hands, which with their own hands they prepared for food. Fogarty 
early during the voyage christened the forward deck the "Zoo," and he 
used to show small parties of us through, as though he were the keeper 
of a menagerie, explaining the habits and origin of the different animals 
and the different races of people, to the infinite amusement of us all. 

Speaking of the Hindoos reminds me that one of them, a merchant 
of Calcutta, died during the voyage. He had been ill from the time of 
leaving Adelaide, and gave up the ghost when our voyage across the 
Indian had been about half completed. With no ceremony whatever he. 



3 44 ^^ OCEAN BURIAL. 

Avas sewed up in a piece of canvas, with a bar of lead at his feet, and 
was laid away in his bunk. All the passengers, including those in the 
steerage, inquired anxiously when the burial was to take place, for all 
were naturally eager to witness a burial at sea. Their inquiries elicited 
only unsatisfactory answers, however, and the death had been almost 
forgotten by the first-class passengers. The following night, however, 
myself and my fellow newspaper correspondent were smoking a last 
ciarar in our state-room, a few minutes before two o'clock. Through the 
port holes we could see the waves of the ocean as they rolled themselves 
into great sheets of silver under the light of a tropical moon, while the 
ship glided along as it had done without interruption since leaving Port 
Adelaide. Suddenly the screw ceased to revolve and my friend and 
myself were startled into silence by the occurrence of so strange an 
event. Before we had recovered from our surprise we heard a splash 
in the waters at the bow, — a splash much like that made by a log strik- 
ing the water, — then all was still. As suddenly as it had stopped, the 
screw began to revolve again and the "Salier" proceeded on her way. 
"The Hindoo!" exclaimed my friend ; and such it was. By the light 
of the stars the Hindoo's body had been quietly dropped into the blue 
ocean, to go down, down, into the dark depths of the sea, to its last 
earthly resting-place. 

The smallest trifles at sea will interest an entire ship-load of passen- 
gers. For instance, a pigeon escaped from a coop during the voyage 
and perched upon the yardarm of the mast. Ever after, that bird was 
an object of the deepest solicitude to all on board. Water and food were 
placed within its reach, and after it had flown to the horizon in every 
direction searching for land, it finally gave up the effort and returned to 
the ship. After two days of fasting it eagerly partook of the fresh 
water and cracked wheat that were set out for it. In a few days it 
became so tame that the first officer succeeded in throwino- a net over 
it, and the fortunate pigeon, no longer fated, as his fellows were, to lie 
upon a platter surrounded by mushrooms that he might delight the eye 
and palate of some one of our epicures, was placed in a gilded parrot 
cage and himg in the officer's room, to be ever afterward the pet and 
harbinger of good luck to this intelligent though superstitious man. 
One afternoon, when it was insufferably stupid, the boys called a mock 



A COMPULSORY SHOWER BATH. 



145 



court in the smoking-room, with Fogarty presiding, and there passed a 
decree to the effect that, " in view of the excessively warm weather, and 
through consideration for the comfort and peace of mind of our entire 
party, Clarence Duval, our chocolate-colored mascot, must take a bath." 
The object of the decree fled to the uttermost depths of the steerage 
when he heard his sentence pronounced, but Tom Daly, Pettit, and 
Mark Baldwin effected his capture, and, despite his cries, thrust him 
beneath the salt-water shower and held him there until the tank was 
emptied. Clarence, on being released, went on the war-path armed 
with a baseball bat, but was 
finally dissuaded from his 
really murderous resolves. 
One of the pleasantest 
reminders of home which 
we had during our voyage 
across the Indian occurred 
during the afternoon of 
January 2 2d, when, with 
our ship steaming along 
over waters that were per- 
fectly placid and the boys 
lying about in their steamer 
chairs, John Ward happened 
to discover a sail ahead. 
His exclamation aroused 
us all. Books were dropped 
in haste, steamer chairs 

were abandoned, and our entire party rushed to the ship's rail to gaze 
upon the stately vessel a mile ahead of us. She lay drifting about upon 
the waters, but with every sail set. Nearer and nearer we drew to the 
cloud of canvas until one of the boys read her name with a field glass — 
" Sam Schofield, Brunswick, Me." Almost at the same moment the stars 
and stripes were run up from the stranger's deck. The cheer that went 
up from the deck of the " Salier " as we passed the Yankee made us 
hoarse for at least two days, and when the cheering had died away, I 
discovered tears in the eyes of at least half the members of our party. 




CARRYING OUT THE SENTENCE. 



146 THE MASCOT "PJiACTJCIN' ." 

Clarence astonished us all one morning by an act that might have 
delayed our ship long enough to pick him out of the water, if, indeed, 
one of the big sharks, which we occasionally caught sight of, had not 
made a meal of him. It seems that he had made a bet with one of the 
boys that with an umbrella he could successfully imitate the " Profes- 
sor's " parachute leap, and that, before the voyage was over, he would 
jump from the rigging at least thirty feet above the deck and land safe 
upon the awning. One afternoon, when half a dozen of us were lying 
about under the awning on the quarter-deck, we were startled by a 
shadow above us and then a fall, as the canvas gave a foot or two with 
some object that had evidently struck it on the upper side, followed by 
a scream of terror. We jumped to our feet and ran to the rope ladders 
near the smoking-room, and climbed to a point overlooking the awning. 
There was the mascot, making his way carefully on hands and knees to 
the rigging, while a reversed umbrella in a badly-damaged condition 
lay upon the awning. 

"What in the world are you doing?" asked Fogarty of the boy. 
Clarence would not reply at first, but finally informed us that he had 
" Gist bin practicinV' and that if he had landed all right, it had been his 
intention to win his bet the next morning. Nothing could induce him, 
however, to make a second attempt. 

The negro game of " craps," introduced by the mascot, soon became 
a popular pastime in the card room, and in some portions of the vessel, 
at almost every hour of the day, one could hear the voice of Clarence 
as, engaged in a game with some of the players, he kept up his calls of, 
" Come, seben," "Come along dar eight," "What's de matter wid yo 
nine?" and other like expressions, without which no American negro 
ever enofaored in his favorite method of sfamblinof- 

Captain Thallenhorst prepared a pleasant little surprise for us one 
afternoon after we had been out ten days, by sending the Steward on 
deck to announce to our half-slumbering party that a ten-gallon keg of 
German beer, "right off the ice," had been placed on tap below. Ten 
seconds later there was not a man on deck. The beer keg, however 
twenty minutes after the announcement, was carried forward in ar. 
empt)' condition. 

Such were some of the incidents on the old "Sailer," until the morn 



A NEW CITY. 



147 



ing of January 25th, when we caught our first glimpse of the outlying 
islands south of Ceylon. Just as the sun came up out of the ocean we 
saw dimly the coast of Elephant Island, which was in all probability 
originally a portion of the island of Ceylon itself At about ten o'clock 
we sighted the main island, and from that time on until we landed, our 
interest in the strange country we were approaching was kept keenly 
alive by all that we saw. Strange -looking, narrow-bodied native boats, 
called "proas," danced about in the waves and along the beach, paddled 
here and there by their dark-skinned, naked boatmen, while dolphins 
plunged and scampered through the water about our bow in great schools, 
and a hundred sea birds circled about our masts, keeping up their inces- 
sant cries as of welcome. We passed Point de Galle, formerly the mailing 
port of the Island before this distinction was transferred to Columbo, 
and looked with curiosity upon its ancient walls with their white cement 
and their background of bending, top-heavy-looking cocoanut trees. 
Finally, we sighted Columbo, and from three to half-past four o'clock, 
when we stopped at the entrance of the breakwater to receive the 
Harbor Master on board, we watched with deep interest the walls and 
harbor of the city as they became more and more distinct on our closer 
approach. 

There is no natural harbor at Columbo, the city lying upon the open 
seacoast, and the Government has been compelled to construct an arti- 
ficial breakwater, a massive stone wall, stretching obliquely away from 
the shore for a distance of nearly a mile, thus forming a quiet and deep 
anchorage for vessels of the greatest draught. The Harbor Master's 
boat, which drew alongside the ship, was manned by black fellows, the 
upper part of their bodies perfectly bare and the lower limbs but half 
concealed by a sheetdike robe that hangs from the waist. They were 
the native Cingalese. We were able to tell this from their long hair, 
brushed straight back from the forehead and rolled into a knot at the 
back of the neck, where it was held in place by big tortoise-shell combs. 
They chattered and gesticulated like a lot of monkeys, and were almost 
as noisy as the hordes of jackdaws and Cingalese crows which circled 
around the masts of our ship. No sooner had we dropped anchor than 
boats of every conceivable character and color put out from the shore 
and came toward us. There were Cingalese, Malays, and Hindoos of 



148 



CINGALESE DIVERS. 



ever}^ caste and religion, all talking and yelling and waving their arms 
and long-handled paddles as they clustered about the "Salier." The 
queer-fashioned boats, the black bodies of the oarsmen and the red, 
yellow, green, orange, purple and other brilliant hues of their costumes, 
with the strangely constructed city and the tall groves of cocoanut palms 
on the shore, made the scene exceedingly picturesque. 

The central object of interest to our party was a little canoe of bam- 




THE ODD FISHING-BOATS OF THE CINGALESE. 



boo logs upon which knelt four Cingalese boys, the youngest probably 
eight and the eldest twelve years of age. They paddled their craft 
about with barrel staves of bamboo and called to us to throw them 
money. Accordingly, many a sixpence and shilling piece went into the 
water, and in ever}^ instance the seemingly amphibious little animals 
would dive for them and secure them as soon as they reached the bot- 



I 



IN CEYLON. 



149 



torn. More than that, they clambered upon the rigging and dived from 
a distance of thirty feet or more into the water, and then dived under 
our ship, which was drawing twenty feet of water, and came up upon the 
opposite side. The "Trow it" of these Httle feUows, as they looked 
toward us with their expressive eyes, their long, dark hair dripping and 
their bodies glistening with the water of the harbor as they called to us 
to throw our silver at them, was mimicked by the different members of 
our party for days after we had left Ceylon. Native guards, hotel 
solicitors, money changers, and natives of other trades clambered over 
the ship and were soon objects of interest and study for us all. All was 
babble, confusion, and hurry, and in the midst of it all Mr. Spalding, 
accompanied by Leigh Lynch, started for the shore just as a drenching 
rain almost hid the town from view. 

IN CEYLON. 

At this particular time Ave were an undecided party. Was the " Sa- 
iler " to sail at six o'clock in the morning without us, or were we to give 
up our trip to Calcutta and Bombay ? All depended upon the word left 
for us by our advance agent. Will Lynch. Mr. Spalding had not obtained 
this when he returned an hour later, but he had made arrangements for 
the party at the Grand Oriental Hotel. Consequently steam launches 
conveyed us from the steamer to the dock, a fancifully-constructed, 
pagoda-like building on the shore, and, after passing through the Cus- 
tom office, we entered upon the broad avenue that led directly up to the 
imposing entrance of the hotel, said to be the finest south of the Medi- 
terranean. It is certainly a great structure and admirably adapted in 
design to the climate of Ceylon. We were shown to our respective 
rooms, immediately upon going into the hotel, by the dark-skinned ser- 
vants in their picturesque garments and tortoise-shell combs. The high 
ceilings, the towering columns, the great dining-hall with its surround- 
ing galleries, in which were Turkish divans for the use of guests, the 
stone balconies with their adjoining galleries, the latticed, carpetless, 
polished-floored bedroom — everything one looks upon reminds him of 
the fact that he is in a country different from any on the face of the globe 
save India. We enjoyed an excellent dinner. We were fanned by the 
great swinging punkas which were swayed backward and forward by 



1 50 INDIAN SHOPS. 

the natives outside the walls, while we partook of tender capons, deli- 
cious curries, and juicy bananas, but turned up our noses at the foul- 
smelling Bombay duck, which seems to be a standard dish on this sec- 
tion of the giobe. Our cafe noir was served us as we sat in easy chairs 
upon one of the big stone balconies outside the dining-hall, and we 
indulged in mouthfuls of tobacco smoke between sips. Then we got 
under our bonnets and went out to see the town. 

Columbo is quite ancient, but no doubt the buildings with their white 
■walls and pot-tiled roofs are the most comfortable for the inhabitants, 
if they are not as prepossessing in appearance as they might be. The 
streets, however, are well laid out, the parks spacious and numerous, 
and the people themselves as interesting a study as I had met with on 
the trip. The Indian shops under the hotel attracted most of our party 
during the best part of the evening. Every imaginable article of Indian 
manufacture was displayed for sale. Inlaid boxes, tortoise-shell toilet 
articles, sandal-wood boxes, carvings in ebony and ivory, embroidered 
shawls, curtains, portieres, and what-nots of a thousand names were 
purchased, and invariably for one-third or one-fourth the price asked 
by the storekeepers. An offer of one pound would be pretty sure to 
secure an article marked four pounds, and this rule holds good, I under- 
stood, throughout India. 

One of the peculiar institutions of Columbo is the "jinrickshaw," 
which answers the purpose of the Hansom cabs of Chicago of New 
York. The " jin " is very similar to the Hansom, save that it is smaller 
and is drawn by a sinewy Cingalese, who trots ten, fifteen or twenty 
miles with you as easily and rapidly as a horse could draw you. The 
boys rented a lot of these and drove about town until midnight, finally 
ending up with an exciting race down the principal thoroughfare to the 
hotel. During the evening advices had been obtained by a visit to the 
residence of the American consul, which informed President Spalding 
that it would be absolutely impossible, on account of the inconvenient 
steamship and railway connections, while it would also be dangerous 
because of the unhealthy condition of Calcutta, for our part}' to make a 
tour of India, and it was that evening decided that the "Salier" would 
remain in the harbor until five o'clock the following afternoon, in order 
to give us time to play a game in Columbo, and that we should then 



THE JINRICKSHA W. 



151 



continue on across the Arabian Sea to the Red Sea and give up our 
tour across India. Of course all were disappointed at tliis change of 
programme, and none more so than Mr. Spalding himself. There was 
the consoling thought, however, that the abandonment of our Indian 
tour would give us more time to spend upon the Continent and in 
England. 

We were all up by daybreak the following morning and out upon the 
street eager to see everything to be seen. I remember that I was 




THE JOLLY JINRICKSHAW. 



awakened by the cawing of one of the big lead-colored crows, which 
deliberately flew down upon my railing, hopped in through the window, 
and, perching upon the back of a chair, startled me from my slumbers 
by a series of squawks, made all the more effective and discordant by 
the bare, frescoed walls, which echoed and reechoed the bird's voice. I 
threw a boot at the intruder, but he only hopped off the chair and 
started on a dignified walk for the window, pausing now and then to 



152 



AN IMPUDENT CROW. 



turn around and screech at me, and, when he had finally reached the 
window casing, jumped to the balcony railing, and by more frantic 
screeching brought to his side a dozen of his fellows. I had to get up 
and go at them before they would disperse. These birds seem to be 
protected by municipal law, and they are the most impudent, and at the 
same time the most amusing, bipeds in Ceylon. I saw one sight that 
would have brought out the pencil of an artist, when, turning a corner 
of the hotel, I came upon a little bullock, not much bigger than a healthy 




M I'MIKl SI'KKLT. 



American calf, harnessed to an immense grass-thatched, two-wheeled 
cart, standing under the shade of a tree and meekly chewing its cud, 
while upon his back, standing sleepily upon one leg, was one of these 
impudent Cingalese crows. It flew to the top of a neighboring palm 
tree and gave me a severe scolding for shying a stone at it and 
disturbing its siesta. 

Soon after breakfast upon the morning after our arrival most of us 



CE YL ON BE G GARS. j - 

adjourned to a Columbo clothing establishment and purchased from one 
to three suits of white duck at seven rupees, or about $2.17 per suit. 
These secured, we added a " cumberband," or bright-colored silk sash, 
which was draped around the waist and, with the fringed ends hanging 
over the hip, gave us quite an Oriental appearance. Our straw hats 
were discarded for cork hats with green linings and a silk "puggery," a 
sort of silk scarf that passes around the crown, the ends dropping over 
the end of the hat brim and protecting the neck from the sun. Alto- 
gether we looked not unlike a party of returning African explorers. 
The costumes I have described are worn universally by the higher 
classes and by all Europeans living in Ceylon and India, and were found 
very comfortable by our party on shipboard after we had left Ceylon. 
Before starting: out to do Columbo and its environs we were informed 
at the office of the U. S. Consul that the corvette " Essex," which lay in 
the harbor, had invited us to pay a visit on shipboard before returning to 
the "Salier." After appointing one o'clock for our visit to the corvette, 
we entered jinrickshaws and bullock carts and started upon a tour of 
the city. Ryan and myself took one district after another, and did it 
systematically. First w^e drove to some of the most prominent Indian 
shops and looked at the big cases of tempting articles on display, em- 
bracing everything from a cashmere shawl and a moonstone necklace 
to a carved ivory watch-charm. On the way we were beset with ped- 
dlers and beggars without number ; and if there is any country on the 
globe where the poor have got these professions down to a fine art, it 
is Ceylon. A peddler will importune you for two blocks, and a beggar 
will follow you for two miles. " Mastah, mastah," they cry — the Cin- 
galese always address Americans or Europeans as "master" — "Back- 
sheesh,* backsheesh ; very hungry, very hungry ;" and they will put 
their hands upon their waistbands, while the youngsters lift up the ends 
of their little cotton shirts, when they have such on, that you may see 
how very empty are their little stomachs. The only way to get rid of 
them is to toss them several Cingalese coppers ; and in anticipation of 
being thus importuned, Ryan and myself had had a sixpence changed 
into a pocketful of the queer-looking coins, a hatful of which would not 
equal the value of an English shilling. 

* Alms, 



154 



INTERESTING SCENES. 



After inspecting the shops we drove down past the British-India 
Hotel, and then alonsj the beautiful beach drive to the " Galle Face," 
a great open lawn that extends along the ocean shore from the military- 
barracks far beyond the Columbo Cricket grounds, until it merges into 
the tall groves of cocoanut trees in the distance. As we bowled along 
over the smooth roads and admired the beautiful view that met our 
gaze ever\-where, the thought occurred to me that this splendid stretch 
of turf would be covered with juvenile ball teams on Saturday and Sun- 
day afternoons were it located in Chicago instead of Ceylon. On the 

road we came across a 
couple of Indian jugglers 
and snake charmers at 
work, surrounded by a 
little crowd of people. We 
stopped and joined the 
crowd. The manipulation 
of the cones and balls by 
these dusky magicians is 
certainly wonderful ; but 
what interested Ryan and 
myself more than anything 
else was the handling of 
the thick - bodied Cobra 
snakes, which spread their 
terrible-looking hoods and 
swayed their bodies to the 
notes of the oourd-like 
flutes played by the jugglers. Although deeply interested, Ryan and 
I took ofood care to stand at a safe distance from both the charmer 
and his pet. 

Our drive through the Cingalese markets and business quarters will 
never be foro;otten. The duskv inhabitants were thicker even than 
the Chinese in Chinatown, San Francisco, and their incessant chat- 
tering, mingling with the yells of the bullock-cart drivers, made the 
neighborhood a Bedlam. We stopped to look in at the Mohammedan 
barber shops , laughed at the antics of a lot of monkeys, held our 




THE CHARMER AND HIS PET. 



ON THE CORVETTE. 155 

noses as we passed a great pile of " Bombay duck " in one of the 
stalls, and paused at one of the Buddhist temples, where all good 
Buddhists of Columbo worship. After looking at its god-bedecked 
exterior (we were not allowed to enter) we gave our natives the word 
and were whisked back to the European quarter and to our hotel. At 
noon we enjoyed a well-served luncheon at the Oriental, and at one 
o'clock entered the gigs of the corvette "Essex" and rode out to call upon 
Captain Jewell and the crew. We were cordially entertained on board, 
the Captain's staff embracing Lieutenants Bignal, Galloway, Gearing 
and Walling ; Ensigns Rodman and Haggatt ; and Midshipmen Scales, 
Hudson, McMillan and Russell. Silence reigned throughout the ship 
and was followed by an enthusiastic applause when Mrs. Lynch 
played "America" on her cornet; then the hundred and fifty seamen 
gathered around Clarence Duval and laughed immoderately while 
the little African did a plantation shakedown, such as the crew of 
the "Essex" had probably not seen since they left home three years 
before. The same gigs that brought us out, rowed us from the 
corvette to the " Salier," and our boys having donned their uniforms 
returned to shore. 

The native Cingalese gazed in open-mouthed wonder at the teams 
when they jumped upon the pier in their showy uniforms half an hour 
later and followed us in crowds to the doors of the Oriental Hotel, 
where we took, not carriages drawn by gayly-plumed horses, as we had 
done in America and Australia, but bullock carts and jinrickshaws, and 
such a scene as the road from the hotel to the Cricket grounds pre- 
sented I had never imagined, and have never seen before or since. 
There were hundreds of howling, chattering, grotesquely-arrayed 
natives, with their red, white, green, blue and orange turbans, sashes 
and jackets ; odd-looking, heavy-wheel carts drawn by ambling hump- 
backed little bulls, not bigger than an American calf; bare-legged Cin- 
galese darting among the carts with their jinrickshaws ; peddlers and 
beggars without number, and, in short, a state of wild confusion that 
was as laughable as it was novel to our party. I wondered if we were 
ever to arrive at the grounds. It certainly looked questionable, but we 
finally pulled up at the gates of the Cricket grounds and entered. The 
grounds were situated at one end of the " Galle Face," the beautiful 



156 AN APPRECIATED GAME. 

lawn stretching away to the sands of the ocean on one side and a tall 
grove of cocoanut palms almost encircling it upon the other. 

A diamond had been laid out in the centre of the cricket field, and 
around a big lawn stood 5000 people, the most picturesquely attired 
crowd, wdthout doubt, that ever assembled to witness a game of ball. 
The officers and crew of the " Essex" took up a position in front of the 
Club house and yelled themselves hoarse over the five-inning game 
which followed our arrival at the grounds. The Englishmen, and sea- 
men too, enjoyed the game as w^ell, but the Cingalese broke into the 
wildest enthusiasm over the battino-. It was laughable to see their 
desperate efforts to get out of the way when a ball was thrown or batted 
among them. They flew in all directions, tumbling over each other and 
chattering like a lot of magpies. During the game the military band, 
stationed upon the club house balcony, played between innings, and later 
on some Scotch Highlanders who were present entertained the crowd 
with their bagpipes. 

Horse racing and Scotch games followed the ball game, but our 
steamer sailed at 5 o'clock, and we saw but little of these latter sports. 
The journey back to the hotel was almost as amusing as the trip out. 
The beggars and peddlars were just as attentive and the crowds of 
blacks, bullock carts and jinrickshaws just as confusing. The crew^ of 
the "Essex " cheered us in true American style as we left the pier for 
the "Salier," which we found again surrounded by hordes of natives. 
As our steam-launch neared the ship Ed Williamson, Jim Manning and 
Ed Crane, who had quietly slipped off their shoes, created a sensation 
by plunging into the water and swimming about in their uniforms 
among the boat-loads of natives. Our party climbed into the rigging as 
the screw of the "Salier" began to revolve and sent cheer after cheer to 
the crew of the " Essex," whose white forms we could see clinging to the 
rigging as we passed out of sight. The sun sank below the horizon 
just as we left the harbor and steamed toward the Arabian Sea and the 
Gulf of Aden. 

AT SEA AGAIN. 

As I have stated, the most beautiful weather of our voyage from 
Australia was enjoyed between Ceylon and Egypt. The ocean 



"PIRATES! PIRATES r' 157 

nowhere had seemed so indolent and so quiet in its great power and 
grandeur as it did here. The sky was never so blue and the atmos- 
phere never so balmy as it came to us laden with the scent of the spice 
groves of Ceylon and the coffee plantations of Arabia. There was 
never a night when the sound of our mandolins and of Ed Crane's 
excellent tenor voice, as he led our choruses on the deck, ceased before 
midnight- Our journey, too, was not without incidents of a most 
memorable character. The evening after leaving Ceylon, Pfeffer, 
Anson, Williamson, Lynch, Mack and myself were invited down stairs 
by George and Bob Wilson, our Africa-bound sportsmen, where, in com- 
memoration of the colonization of New South Wales, with the big 
patriotic Australians, we drank half a case of Monopole and talked with 
them as to their anticipated experiences in the Dark Continent. 

It was late when we got to bed, but very early when we arose next 
morning, and doubtless our awakening will long be remembered by 
everybody aboard the "Salier." Indeed, there are those among our 
party who have not yet, and perhaps never will, forgive Lynch and 
Fogarty for the cruel practical joke of which they were the authors and 
perpetrators. Many of the boys were still sleeping when the thunder- 
ing report of a cannon shook the ship, followed with cries of, " Pirates ! 
Pirates ! My God, boys, the Chinese pirates are upon us ! " Then 
came the report of another gun. The effect may easily be imagined. 
The boys simply fell out of their berths, half-clad and white-faced, and 
rushed into the cabin in a state of panic. Treasurer John Tener grabbed 
his bags of gold and backed himself into the coffin-like closet of his state- 
room, where he closed the door and tremblingly stood in hope that the 
bold sea raiders would pass him by unnoticed. Ed Crane left every- 
thing of value in his stateroom unnoticed and sprang into the cabin 
with a pet monkey, which had been given him by the officers of the 
" Essex." Captain Anson filled his mouth with Mrs. Anson's diamonds, 
and seizing a baseball bat swung it over his shoulder and stood at his 
stateroom door, as if waiting for a base hit or a pirate, while he com- 
manded Mrs. Anson to conceal herself beneath her bunk. Ed Hanlon 
burst into the cabin wearing his hat and holding a pair of trousers in 
one hand and a valise in the other. Confusion and panic reigned 
supreme. We could see the smoke descending the stairway in thick 



1^8 CLARENCE'S TERROR. 

volumes, and most of us got into the cabin just in time to see the flash 
and hear the report of the second cannon. Whether the ship was 
sinking, was on fire, or had really been attacked, we did not know, but 
in our dazed condition we were quite willing to believe that something- 
terrible had happened, or was about to happen, until we caught sight 
of Fogarty galloping around upon the green table cloths that covered 
the saloon tables and yelling until red in the face. Then we suspected' 
that all was not as it really seemed, and Fogarty confirmed the sus- 
picion by finally falling in a heap upon the dining-room table, convulsed 
with laug-hter. 

Upon inquiry, the frightened members of the party learned that the 
"Sailer's "guns had been simply firing a salute in honor of the Emperor's 
birthday, and that Fogarty and Leigh Lynch had improved the oppor- 
tunity to raise the cry of "Pirates!" There were men enough on board 
who were warm enough at the time to string Mr. Fogarty up to the yard- 
arm sans ceremonie, and it was fully a week before some of the boys 
would consent to smile when the affair was mentioned. We were all 
pretty badly frightened, but by far the most terrified of the party was 
Clarence Duval. When I came out of my cabin door and into the 
saloon, I saw him clinging to the skirts of Leigh Lynch's pjamas, under 
which he was vainly endeavoring to hide himself The whites of his eyes 
seemed to have extended over his entire face, and his black skin looked 
much as though it had been sprinkled with fine ashes. When Lynch 
shook him off and told him he must protect himself, the boy fell to the 
floor with a groan, where he sat with chattering teeth until he saw 
Fogarty laughing. He then disappeared, and did not show up again 
until evening. When asked if he had really been frightened, he said, 
"Yes, I reckon I was; I did'n no what poridges was, but I made up 
mah min' dat whatever dey was, dey was liable to do dis hyah niggah 
some h'am, an' I was lookin' foh a place ter crawl inter when I ketched 
sight ov dat old Mister Fogaty lafin hisself red in de face, and den I 
knowed it was jes one o' his tricks. Some day I's goin' to scar 'at man 
so, he'l be gray-headed time he gits to New Yawk." 

Mark Baldwin formed a new acquaintance during the voyage across 
the Arabian Sea, an acquaintance which, though it at one time prom- 
ised to assume most intimate relations, eventually changed to a deadly 



A VICIOUS MONKEY. I^c^ 

hatred. At Ceylon the engineer of the ship had purchased a big Indian 
monkey — one of those tall, long-legged, ring-tailed, evil-countenanced 
creatures, which seemed to bear an implacable dislike for all mankind. 
He was a powerful fellow and received Mark's advances coldly as he sat 
upon the grating of the engine room and glared at the big pitcher from 
under his shaggy eyebrows. There was a strap around his waist, to 
which had been attached a rope five or six feet long, and, unknown 
to the engineer, Mark untied the rope and coaxed the monkey out of 
the engine room to the deck. The monk was badly frightened at the 
sight of the heaving ocean and the strange appearance of the deck, and 
refused to advance further, but Baldwin, holding him by the end of the 
rope, raced up and down the deck with him, as the monk, bracing 
himself with stiff legs and paws, slid reluctantly over the surface of the 
polished floor. 

Mark then took him down to the bar room and fed him beer and 
pretzels, after which he brought him up to the deck again and gave him 
another race. The monkey in the meantime never lost his expression 
of terror, and Mark, finally tiring of the sport, took him back to the 
engine room. Now, the first grating around the big steam cylinders was 
reached by a narrow iron staircase of five or six steps, and Mark, enter- 
ing the doorway, descended the steps first. No sooner had his head got 
on a level with Mr. Monk than the hairy ape, with a villanous shriek, 
jumped straight at Mark's throat, and but for the pitcher's presence of 
mind would have probably injured him seriously then and there. As 
it was, Mark fell backward with the monkey on top of him, and the 
vicious brute took a mouthful of Mark's leg in his mouth and inflicted 
a bite that if not dangerous was at least painful. Then, chattering to 
himself, and his long gray whiskers standing out on each side stiff with 
rage, he hopped like a great kangaroo over to his corner in the grating 
and stood glaring fiercely at Mark. Baldwin regained his feet, and after 
satisfying himself as to the extent of his injuries, made one bound for that 
monkey. The monkey was quicker than he, however, and jumped from 
the grating on to the piston rod of the engine, and with every revolution 
of the screw he would go down into the depth of the hold and then 
come up again, shaking his fist at Mark and chattering like a fiend at 
each ascent. Although angry and burning for revenge, the situatioa 



l6o INTO THE GULF OF ADEN. 

was too comical for the Fittsburgher to withstand, and he sat down and 
laughed at the ape until it finally scrambled up among the crossbars 
and ironwork of the engine room and watched Mark until he had left 
the grating. Baldwin laid for the monkey during the entire remainder 
of the voyage, but the monkey was altogether too watchful and nimble 
to be caught. 

On the morning of February ist Ave left the waters of the Arabian 
Sea for those of the Gulf of Aden, the bluest, I think, of all blue waters 
upon the globe. We passed the Socotra Islands during the night, and 
sighted the volcanic groups off the African coast soon after daybreak. 
Passing these about breakfast hour, we slowly approached Guardafui, 
the great headland on the northeast corner of the coast of Africa. It 
rises gloomy and impressive, the waters breaking around its base as it 
stands lookingf out over the sea like some s^reat sentinel. Until long- 
after the noon hour we steamed along the forbidding bluff, and then as 
the sun began to sink we left it in the gray mist that hovered about its 
peak, miles and miles away. On the afternoon of the following day we 
sighted the Arabian coast, some forty miles away. Later on we passed 
an Arabian " dhow," or native sail boat, and gradually the seamed sides 
of the great bluffs which protect Aden from the gulf winds became 
more and more distinct. It was nearly dark when we dropped anchor 
before the little Arabian town and leaned over the ship's rail to watch 
the boat-loads of chattering, black-bodied fellows who surrounded the 
"Salier," much as she was surrounded at Columbo. It was nearly 
supper time, but the boys never thought of that. We wanted to stand 
on Arabian soil, and consequently three boat-loads of Americans were 
soon on their way to the shore. Of course we were appealed to for 
"backsheesh" the moment we landed, but we whacked the beggars with 
our canes and went on up the lighted street that stretched along the 
shore for a mile. We raided the shops for curiosities, and found any 
quantity of them in the way of ostrich eggs and plumes, Indian curtains, 
portieres and handiwork of all kinds, which we brought awayas mementoes 
of our visit to Arabia. John Tener has a cane which is part of a long 
Arab staff that he bought from one of a group of white-sheeted Arabs 
on the dock, and which John says is a divining rod for the richest of all 
liis memories of our great tour. 



THROUGH THE RED SEA. ]6i 

We left Aden at 9 o'clock that evening, in the face of a stiff blow, and 
•were soon on our way to the southern entrance of the Red Sea. The 
following morning we were startled from sleep by the sound of the gong, 
and sprang out of bed, not really sure but that we were to have another 
visitation of pirates. We were informed, however, that we were approach- 
ing the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, the entrance to the Red Sea, and that 
all who wished to see them should come up on deck. We all took 
advantage of the opportunity, and after hastily dressing, congregated 
upon the deck just as the sun broke upon the gray of the morning. 

THE RED SEA. 

The straits are about 2 y^ miles in width. Our ship passed between the 
coast of Arabia on the right, which arose in great elephantine-looking 
piles, and at the base of which the billows broke themselves into clouds 
of spray, and upon our left the Island of Perin, on the shores of which 
burned the yellow beacons of the lighthouses. Both coasts were barren 
and uninviting, looking as though no one but the lighthouse keepers 
ever set foot upon their soils. At ten o'clock that morning we passed 
the famous city of Mocha, which lay like a city of white walls and glisten- 
ing towers upon the now far-distant Arabian coast; for the sea had 
widened as we left the straits behind. We watched it with our glasses 
until it had faded from view, with other vanished but not forgotten 
scenes of the many we had passed. 

The voyage through the Red Sea was thoroughly delightful, although 
we had been led to anticipate insufferably hot weather. It was warmer 
than any we had yet experienced on our way from Australia, but it was 
by no means unpleasant, and we were sorry rather than glad when, 
upon the morning of February 7th, we entered the harbor of Suez and 
slowly steamed in the direction of the little city of the same name, which 
lay at the southern end of the great canal. The day of our arrival was 
perfect, and the bright sunlight brought into bold relief the immense 
bluffs of the Egyptian coasts as they looked down upon the calm waters 
of the bay and the seemingly limitless desert that stretched away upon 
the opposite shore. Several large vessels lay in the harbor, among 
them an English troop ship and an Italian man-of-war. And as we 
dropped anchor, we were soon surrounded, as in Ceylon, with native 



t62 



ON LAND AGAIN 



boats and a couple of little steam tugs, which towed out to the ship two 
or three big barges for the reception of our baggage and such freight 
as we might have for Suez. Again we listened to the unintelligible 
chatter of a new race of people, and gazed with interest on the remark- 
able costume of the Eg^-ptian boatmen. After bidding farewell to 
Captain Thalenhorst and his clever fellow-officers, we descended the 
companion-way into the little steamer that lay alongside for our trip 
of two miles to the docks at the city of Suez. On board were several 
Indian jugglers and fakirs, who entertained our party with their really 
wonderful feats of legerdemain during the ride. 

When we drew up at the pier in Suez, a crowd of Arabs and 
Egyptians, in long, loose-fitting gowns of blue, white and black, their 



- . « _ *■; . . ' ^ 




THE LITTLE CITY OF SUEZ. 



feet shoeless and their heads wound about with white turban cloths, 
rushed toward our boat, driving before them a troop of long-eared 
donkeys with queer-looking, gayly-caparisoned saddles and bridles, the 
latter decorated with brass bangles and bright-colored ribbons. These 
were the donkey boys of Egypt, whose services we afterward had 
occasion to employ so frequently in Cairo. We had but a few moments 
to catch the train for the Egj^ptian capital, so we mounted these little 
beasts, none of which weighed over 275 pounds, and with the donkey 
boys yelling at our heels, trotted off for the railway station four or five 
blocks distant. What we saw of Suez did not impress us favorably, for 
of all the tumble-down, ramshackle, dilapidated-looking structures we 



EVIDENCES OF ANTIQUITY. 



J 63 



saw during the trip, those at Suez take the palm. If dirt and general 
shiftlessness are evidences of antiquity, then surely Suez and its people 
are the most thoroughly antique of all the antiquities of this nineteenth 
century. 

It was a relief to each and every one of us when the train pulled out 
from the station, and dodmnor about through the villao-es of mud huts 
which the Egyptians are either too poor, or too much attached to, to 




I 
I 



A PEEP AT THE GREAT SUEZ CANAL. 



abandon for more comfortable and modern dwellings, we cut across 
country into the arid desert region, which extends northward from 
Suez as far as Ismalia. Our train ran parallel with the canal for a dis- 
tance of forty-five miles and then branched off westward to Cairo. 
Gradually the country became more and more pleasant to look upon, 
until we entered the rich valley of the Nile, where the growth of vege- 



i64 



ANCIENT CUSTOMS. 



tation seems fully as luxuriant as in Ceylon. Great fields of grain and 
clover, with here and there a grove of imposing palms or acacias, 
stretched away from each side of the track ; flocks of sheep and goats 
became a common sight, and along the roadways of the irrigating canals, 
which overspread the valley like an immense net, the patient camels 
plodded along under their loads of grain or the weight of their Egyp- 
tian owners, while groups of water buffalo stood knee-deep amid the 
clover. Occasionally we saw evidences of the fidelity of the Egyptians 




OX-POWER SHADOOF, OR IRRIGATING MACHINE OF THE NILE. 

to the customs and methods of their biblical forefathers. Such, for 
instance, as an ox turning an old-fashioned water wheel, which lifted the 
water in buckets from the main canal into irriCTatino- ditches. An Amer- 
ican pump would have done the work in half the time, but that would 
not be the way in which their fathers raised the water, and therefore would 
not suit the Egyptian, even of this generation. At every station our car- 
riages were surrounded by Bedouins, Arabs and Egyptians ; the men 



I 



THE EGYPTIAN WOMEN. 



165 



being muscular-looking fellows, but servile of manner, and the women 
veiled to the eyes, their faces disfigured by the characteristic brass orna- 
ments of the Egyptians, which hang from the hood of their outer gar- 
ment, the "bournous," their figures being thick-set, without the faintest 
suspicion of contour. Most of them bore upon their heads big baskets 
of fruit, oranges and 
dates, while others 
carried earthenware 
jugs of water, from 
which the occupants 
of the dusty railway 
coaches quenched 
their thirst for the 
sum of a half-piastre. 
Ed Crane's little 
Japanese monkey 
sat upon the carriage 
window-sill in his 
picturesque scarlet 
jacket, and greatly 
amused the ladies 
by his funny faces 
and antics. Just at 
dusk, as we pulled up 
at a station twenty 
miles from Cairo, 
Ryan invented an 
enlarged edition of 
Crane's monkey, 
which had the effect 
of causing a panic 

among the unsuspecting Egyptians. Jim dressed Clarence Duval up 
in the latter's drum-major coat of scarlet and gold lace ; he then put 
a catcher's mask on the boy's face and tied a rope around his waist, 
in regulation hand-organ style, and awaited the train's arrival at the 
station. As at preceding stations, the crowd rushed toward the train, 




EGYPTIAN WOMAN WITH BRASS FACE ORNAMENTS. 



1 66 



CLARENCE COUNTERFEITING A MONKEY. 



and Clarence sprang through the doorway into the centre of a score 
of Egyptians, waddling and chattering like an angry monkey. Women 
screamed and men fell over each other in a wild effort to get out of 
reach of the terrible-looking ape, which Ryan, apparently with the 
exertion of great strength, held with difficulty, and finally forced back 
into the carriage. Then Clarence sat at the window, chattering and 
making faces as long as we remained at the station, and not a native 
would come within twenty feet of our coach. One could scarcely 




CLARENCE CREATING A PANIC AT THE EGYPTIAN STATION. 



blame them, for could a disciple of Darwin have seen the mascot in 
his impromptu make-up, his heart would have bounded with delightful 



visions of the missing link. 



IN CAIRO. 

It was dark when we reached Cairo, and no sooner had we stepped 
upon the station platform from our coaches than we were beset by an 
army of black fellows, clad in turbans and elongated night shirts, who 



DIVERSIFIED AMUSEMENTS. I 67 

laid hold of us and our baggage as though to carry us away bodily. Ed 
Crane propped one of the heathens under the chin and old Anson sent 
half a dozen more sprawling by a vigorous shove. Still they came at 
us as determinedly as ever. We were in a fair way to be smothered or 
pulled to pieces, when Jimmy Fogarty called out "Step on their trotters, 
boys, they can't stand that." Happy thought; it was cruel, but it was 
our only means of relief and we forthwith proceeded to step on the 
bare feet of every Egyptian within reach. That settled them, and they 
kept at safe distance till we had reached our carriages. We were driven 
quickly to the Hotel d'Orlent, where accommodations had been secured 
for the party. The Orient is not so highly fashionable as "Shephard's" 
or the " Grand New," but is still a well appointed hostelry, with a table 
that was not excelled by any that we sat down to during our tour. It 
faces a big, circular open space from which half a score of thorough- 
fares diverge like the spokes of a wheel, penetrating every quarter of 
Cairo. 

Opposite is a big public garden in which one of the bands of the 
Khedive was playing as we drew up to the door of the hotel, and on 
every hand were booths, cafes and places of amusement without number, 
from roulette wheels, publicly operated, to French opera and inviting- 
looking brasseries where one can drop in for a puff at a narghili, or a cup 
of chocolate and a cigarette served by waitresses of almost any nationality 
in Asia or Europe, and possessed of beauty or homeliness to a greater 
or less deg-ree. All these thing^s we noticed after we had removed the 
dust of the Desert from our faces and refreshed the inner man with 
a substantial dinner. One can sit in the Eldorado at Cairo and listen 
to a French opera, while around him at the tables he will hear the 
Arabic, Hindostanee, Greek, German, Egyptian, French, Italian and 
English languages spoken simultaneously. Such a jargon of tongues 
cannot, I believe, be heard in any other city outside of Continental 
Europe, unless it be, perhaps, at Constantinople. Before sitting down 
to post up my diary that evening, I stepped to the balcony of my room, 
which overlooks the space in front of the hotel, and saw Cairo in the 
gloom of the night, its towers and minarets rising like shadows among 
the heavy, white-walled buildings, and the lights of a thousand booths 
tinting the diverging thoroughfares with a red glow, for the booths and 



1 68 A FREE DAY. 

brassej'ies of Cairo seem never to close, and their proprietors never 
to sleep. In the square below sat the donkey boys watching for some 
belated pedestrian, and there are scores of these, who might need the 
services of these hardy and much enduring little beasts. It is a strange 
land and a still stranger people, and a student of Egyptology finds, ere 
he has prosecuted his studies to a very great extent, that he has even 
more than a lifetime of work before him, every day of it filled with 
research, discoveries and experiences, that grow with interest as he 
advances. 

At the breakfast table the morning after our arrival in the Egyptian 
capital President Spalding announced that as no arrangements could 
be made for a game before the day following, the members of the party 
were at liberty to put in their time as best suited them. Accordingly, 
a few of us took carriages, but the majority of the boys bestrode the 
little donkeys and with a donkey boy at their heels covered many a 
square mile of Cairo during the day. We penetrated the Arabian, 
Moorish, Turkish, Algerian and Greek quarters of the town, riding 
through the narrow streets from which the light of the sun was almost 
excluded by towering walls and overhanging balconies. We handled 
and admired the rich tapestries and works of art in the bazaars, and 
listened to the babble of tongues that was kept up incessantly on all 
sides of us. We crossed the bridge of the Nile to the Khedive's gar- 
dens, where the wealth and elite of Cairo in magnificent equipages ga 
for an airing each afternoon, and it may be said that on no drive in 
London, or even in Paris, can so much splendor be seen as here. The 
foreign ambassadors. Ministers and Government officials possess the 
finest of Arabian stock, and their carriages are equal to any that I saw 
in Rotten Row or on the Champs Elysee. The effect is exceedingly 
Oriental, and ideally regal, as the imposing turnouts sweep down the 
principal avenue along the river bank, preceded by their gorgeously- 
liveried avant-couriers, attired in costumes of white broadcloth and 
bright-colored jackets elaborately embroidered in gold or silver, while 
they hold in their hands the long staffs with which they are supposed to 
clear the way for their masters' equipages. At the far end of the Gar- 
dens is one of the Khedive's palaces, a great imposing building of 
purely Egyptian style of architecture, surrounded by beautiful gardens. 



ANSON "PUTS HIS FOOT IN IT." 



169 



as attractive as art and nature can make them. The Khedive, by the 
way, has more palaces by half a score than he visits or resides in. 

The day passed only too quickly for us all, for with all we 
had seen, not one tithe of the great district covered by the city, 
or of the many interesting quarters within it, had been visited. 
During the evening, French opera at the Eldorado, the Algerian 
dances at the Byzantine, and the brilliantly lighted shops or the throngs 
upon the streets afforded us diversion enough. Captain Anson, by the 




MACMILLAR AND PALMER MOUNTED FOR A RIDE. 



way, managed during the evening to " put his foot in it." He and Mrs. 
Anson, wishing to see something of Cairo by gaslight, took a carriage 
and drove in search of the theatre. They drove down past the Grand 
New Hotel and the French Opera House until a palatial looking 
structure, its grounds brightly lighted and colored awnings extending 
from the streets to the doorways, attracted their attention. " Hey 
driver," called Anson, to the Egyptian on the box, "what is this?". 



J JO A LAUGHABLE MISTAKE. 

And the driver, not understanding a word of English, but properly 
interpreting Anson's question, replied with the single word " 5"m/ar. ' 
Whether it was the rumble of the wheels or the indistinct pronunciation 
of the Egyptian, I do not know, but at any rate Anson put his own inter- 
pretation upon the Egyptian's reply. "The circus, eh?'' said he, "well, 
I guess that is just about our size. Hold on, there !" and stopping the 
carriage, Anson assisted his wife to alight. They passed under the 
canopy and by two gorgeously-attired servants who stood at the door. 
Music came from every direction, and the air itself Avas filled with the 
perfume of a score of fountains which spurted forth the most expensive 
extracts. 

" Pretty swell kind of a circus this, isn't it?" questioned the old man 
of his better half " I suppose, though," he continued, " that this is the 
way they do things over here. I have made up my mind not to be sur- 
prised at anything I see." 

Within, they caught sight of a number of ladies and gentlemen in full 
evening dress. Still it failed to occur to the old man that he might not have 
properly understood his Egyptian cab-driver, and Mrs. Anson followed 
her lord with a confidence born of the belief that whatever he did was 
perfectly right and proper. Finally, Anson ran squarely against a dark- 
complexioned, distinguished-looking man, attired in all the magnificence 
of an Egyptian military costume. He glanced curiously at the Ameri- 
cans, and then stopped as Anson addressed him. " Can you tell me," 
asked Anson, " where we buy our tickets ?" 

"Tickets! what tickets?" asked the dark-complexioned man, in a 
surprised tone, but in very good English. 

" Why," said Anson, a bit nervously, "the tickets to the circus here," 
and he made a sweeping gesture with his right hand. 

Then the gentleman in military costume, partly turning away his face 
to hide a smile, said, " There is no circus here, my friend ; this is my pri- 
vate residence. I am Commander-in-Chief of the Egyptian Army and 
am simply entertaining a few of my friends to-night. I would be very 
much pleased, however, if you would remain and — " 

" Don't say a word, sir," replied the captain of the Chicago Club 
looking very much cheaper than lovers of the game have seen him look, 
when, with men on bases, the Umpire has called three strikes on him. 



EGYPT'S FIRST GAME. jyi 

''It's my mistake, and I hope you will be kind enough to excuse me," 
with which he bowed himself out, and then had to stand beinof laughed 
at by Mrs. Anson all the way back to the hotel. 

That evening, in the hotel office, the following bulletin was posted : 
" Baseball at the Pyramids. — The Chicago and All-America teams, 
comprising the Spalding American Baseball party, will please report in 
the hotel office, in uniform, promptly at ten o'clock to-morrow morning. 
We shall leave the hotel at that hour, camels having been provided for 
the All-America players and donkeys for the Chicago players, with 
carriages for the balance of the party. The Pyramids will be inspected, 
the Sphynx visited, and a game played upon the Desert near by, begin- 
ning at 2 o'clock." 

The following day, accordingly, witnessed the first professional ball 
game ever played upon Egyptian soil, and the scenes and incidents of 
that morning and afternoon rendered the 9th of February one of the 
most memorable of our eventful tour. Half-past nine o'clock saw 
twenty of the best known ball players in America in the court of the 
Hotel d'Orient, in uniform. Every arrangement for the day's pro- 
gramme had been carefully worked out. The dragoman in charge of 
the camels and donkeys had done his duty, as a glance at the array in 
front of the hotel indicated. A dozen long-necked camels, saddled and 
bridled, lay upon the ground, contentedly chewing their cuds, and as 
many gayly decorated little donks stood patiently beside the reclining 
travelers of the Desert. At ten o'clock the camels were drawn up in 
line in front of the hotel, with a line of donkeys before them, and then 
the fun of the morning began. The crowd of donkey boys, drago- 
men, guards, and venders of curios and tapestries, and photographs, 
and earthenware images, and fruits, and goodness knows what not, 
had increased to fully half a thousand, and every one of them was 
eagerly looking for a chance to secure, by hook or by crook, a bit of 
American silver. The dragoman in charge had engaged all the don- 
keys we needed, but other donkey boys contrived to mix up with those 
appointed, and succeeded in getting some of the boys upon the backs 
of renegade donkeys. It was when the players were apprised of their 
mistake that the real fun commenced, and such a hubbub as was raised 
in that square I never expect to witness outside of Cairo ; donkeys 



i;: 



CAMELS AND DONKEYS. 



brayed, camels trumpeted, donkey boys howled and fought and chat- 
tered, and scratched each other's faces and tore each other's gowns, and 
cried big tears of vexation in their efforts to hold on to their fares, 
while above all the noise could be heard the thwack, thwack, of the 
bamboo rods, in the hands of the native policemen, as they dusted the 
jackets of every thinly-clad Arab and Egyptian that got in their way. 
Those of us who had been provided with camels sat upon our reclining 
hump-backed beasts, doubled up with laughter, until the police had 
finally restored order by the free use of their bamboo sticks. 



^^ 




A CAMEL TRAIN READY I-OR A TRIP. 



In good time we were all safely mounted, All-America upon the 
camels, and Chicago upon the donkeys. Immediately in front of 
me, upon the back of a surly old camel, which lay sullenly grunting 
under her burden, sat Irving W. Snyder, the fat, good-natured sporting 
goods dealer of Nassau street. Just who had persuaded him to mount 
a camel I have never been able to learn, and judging from the expres- 
sion of his face, when I first glanced at him, I imagined he was at that 
moment wondering how he could have been weak enough to allow 
himself to get into such a box. He had not much time, however, to 



I 



THE LUXURY OF CAMEL-HIDING. 173 

devote to reflection, for the order was given for the camels to arise, 
that the photographer might make a picture of the party. I saw a 
startled expression cross Snyder's face as the big beast began to stir, 
and then he pitched forward and flattened his nose against old Sahara's 
head, as the old girl lifted her rump into the air, — the first in the 
remarkable series of movements a camel goes through in getting upon 
its feet. He only retained this position for an instant, however, for the 
front end of the camel immediately followed the example of the rear 
end, and Snyder took a tumble in the opposite direction. 

When the beast finally settled itself the merchant of Nassau street 
looked very much as though he had just fallen off the roof of the Hotel 
d'Orient. Both trousers legs had worked up to his knees, and one 
end of his collar was poking him in the eye ; but he did not worry over 
such trifles, even though he must have known that he was sitting for 
his picture. The sole question agitating his mind at that moment was 
that of his ability to stay where he was until help came. Alas, how- 
ever, there was no help, and the incidents of the four miles ride which 
followed, and during which he clung to those saddle sticks as though 
they were the only barriers between himself and instant destruction, 
must be very distinctly engraved upon Mr. Snyder's memory. 

Finally we got started, and with the camels and donkeys leading the 
line, and the carriages bringing up the rear, we moved slowly through the 
streets of Cairo toward the Bridge of the Nile, attracting no little atten- 
tion, of course, as we proceeded. We stopped at the residence of the 
American Minister, and with three cheers for the flag that floated over 
his quarters, continued on our way toward the Nile, which we crossed, 
and then entered the Khedive's Gardens. At the further end of the 
bridge poor Snyder was overtaken by more trouble, and as his animal 
was just in front of mine, the halter of each camel being attached to 
the saddle of the camel ahead of him, I obtained an uninterrupted and 
most interesting view of the performance. A couple of big camels with 
a load of sawed lumber strapped across their humps, the ends of the 
twenty-four-foot boards extending out over their heads and beyond their 
tails, were quietly wending their way, in charge of their Egyptian drivers, 
along the road which our party took toward the Pyramids. Neither 
beast of burden noticed our cavalcade until the rear end of the proces- 



174 



AN OBSTINATE BEAST. 



sion overtook them and they caught sight of Snyder. What there was 
about the merchant of Nassau street to terrify the plank-laden camels 
I could not discover, and Snyder afterwards told me that it was the only 
instance in his life in which he had encountered an animal of any kind 
that had not shown the most marked affection for him. Be that as it 
may, when the bigger of the two camels saw Snyder he ran his tongue 
out of his mouth a distance of two feet or more and gave a trumpet that 
startled every camel within sight into a state of very active interest. The 




THE SUPERB BRIDGE OF THE NILE. 



Egyptian leading the plank-bearer turned around and endeavored to 
quiet his beast wnth a volley of Egyptian oaths and a sudden yank on 
the halter. The effect, however, was the opposite of what he had antici- 
pated. The camel gave another trumpet, and then began a waltz with 
the swearing Egyptian at the end of the halter. A cloud of dust had 
almost enveloped man and beast within a few seconds after the dance 
began, and I could see that this miniature cyclone was slowly but surely 



SNYBER'S LUDICROUS POSITION. 



175 



approaching Snyder. Snyder saw it too, and judging from the expres- 
sion upon his face he must have thought that this time the hour of his 
physical disintegration had surely come. He could only clutch the 
saddle sticks and look out of the corner of his eye at the approaching 
cloud of dust, while his face grew ghastly with dreadful anticipation. 
His suspense, however, was not of long duration. The waltzing camel 
gradually drew nearer until a final whirl brought the ends of the planks 




SNYDER IN THE CONTEST OF THE CAMELS. 



against the rump of Snyder's camel with a sound like the falling of a 
lumber pile. To say that Snyder's camel was startled would be putting 
it mildly. He was also indignant, for he had been soberly pursuing his 
way, wholly indifferent to, if not unconscious of, the antics of the other 
camel. When the planks^struck him Jie let out a spiteful shriek and 
shot straight up into the air a distance of about four feet, and for prob- 



176 



THE PYRAMIDS. 



ably fifteen seconds the air was filled with pieces of flying plank, camel 
legs, swearing Egyptian and Nassau street merchant, until one was 
almost at a loss to determine just what character of beast the whole con- 
glomeration was. The drivers finally succeeded, however, in separatmg 
the now belligerent camels, and Snyder rode on, covered with dust and 
camel saliva, with his hair in his eyes and what was left of his hat on the 
back of his head, inwardly cursing every four-legged thing in Egypt. 
He was just beginning to think that after all, camel riding was perhaps 
not so bad as being seasick or falling off Washington Monument, when 
the drivers whipped the camels into a trot and Snyder's position was 
more uncomfortable than ever. He could not get breath enough to 
command the drivers to stop, and they would not have understood him 
had he been able to talk, so that he could only clutch the saddle sticks 
and suffer. Then somebody behind him fired a big, soft, juicy orange 
that caught him in the back of the neck. Altogether, Mr. Irving W. 
Snyder's ride to the Pyramids was not a howling success ; but it was 
funny. 

The road to the historic piles is a beautiful one. It runs for some 
distance along the left bank of the Nile, past the Khedive's palace and 
the Governor's residence, and then branches off across the rich low- 
lands of the great river, which, during the annual overflow, are 
covered with water, until it ends at the desolate-looking sand hills at the 
edge of the desert upon which the Pyramids have been constructed. 
Along each side of the roadway stand stately acacia trees, the branches 
of which meet overhead and form a leafy avenue from the Bridge of the 
Nile to the sand hills, a distance of eight miles. Half-way out upon 
the road, at Snyder's piteous solicitation, the procession stopped, and 
Chicago being desirous of experiencing the novelty of camel riding 
took the camels, while All-America mounted the donkeys for the 
balance of the journey. At two o'clock we reached our destination, 
and after ascending the winding roadway to the base of the Pyramids, 
partook of the luncheon that had been prepared for us in the brick cot- 
tage at the foot of old Cheops. While we were waiting, however, for 
lunch, we were assailed by not less than 150 Bedouins, Arabs and 
Egyptians, who are a nuisance to every tourist visiting the Pyramids. 
They besought us to buy musty-looking coins and mouldy copper 



CURIOUS NATIVES. 177 

images, which they explained had been taken from the interior of the 
big structures. They proved the most persistent beggars we had thus 
far encountered, not excepting those at Columbo, and we did not escape 
from them during our stay at the Pyramids. 

After lunch we walked past the base of the big Pyramid to the Sphynx, 
and grouping ourselves about the head, shoulders and feet of the 
great image, were photographed by the photographer who accompanied 
the party. Then we passed down the hill until we reached the hard 
sands of the Desert, where the diamond was laid off and where, in the 
presence of something like a thousand people, embracing a number of 
tourists, but more long-sheeted Bedouins, we played the first and only 
game of baseball ever played in Egypt. The surface of the Desert 
was hard and firm, not unlike the snow crust of the North, and 
formed a by-no-means-poor ground for ball playing. Ward's forces were 
again "out for blood," and though Anson made a good start by the 
capture of two runs in the opening inning, All-America by good stiff 
batting piled up seven runs in the second and secured a lead which 
Chicago could not afterwards approach. The actions of the natives 
during the game were not unlike those of the Cingalese at our game in 
Columbo. When a ball was thrown wild or batted into the crowd, the 
entire agfo-repfation of white-robed sons of the Desert would chase after 
it, capture it, and crowd around to examine it, utterly indifferent, or 
thoughtless of the fact that we might want the ball for playing, and as 
though it was one of the greatest curiosities they had ever seen. In 
such cases game was suspended until the teams had attacked the mob 
in a body and rescued the ball. At the close of the game we returned 
to the Sphynx and the Pyramids and looked over the great masses of 
stone at our leisure. A couple of Bedouins performed the dangerous 
task of climbing to the apex of the big Pyramid and down again within 
ten minutes' time, for a ten-piastre piece, and then Ward, Fogarty and 
Manning, accompanied by attendants, undertook and accomplished the 
ascent. The balance of us, however, were content to forego that experi- 
ence, and soon after we were on our way back to Cairo, which we 
reached about seven o'clock that evening. I need scarcely say that the 
camels came back with empty saddles, the boys preferring the carriages 
and donkeys to another ride on the Egyptian beasts of burden. 



178 



A CIGARETTE-SMOKING DONKEY. 



Macmillan, myself and the Professor started together on three little 
donkeys, but the Professor objected to fast riding, and Mac and I soon 
left him far behind. Had it been practicable, I am quite sure Mac 
would have purchased his donkey and brought him back with him to 
New York ; for he was an extraordinary donkey in several respects. 
His master had taught him to smoke cigarettes, and that the donkey 
enjoyed the habit was plainly evident by the enthusiasm with which he 




AT LEISURE AT THE FOOT OF THE PYRAMIDS. 



went at it. His master, a bright-faced little donkey-boy, would give a 
peculiar cry and then take a mouthful of cigarette smoke and start on 
a run. The donkey would immediately lay his ears back, whisk his 
tail and start after the little Egyptian until he had overtaken him. 
Then he would thrust his nose close to the boy's face, while the latter 
would blow the tobacco smoke between the donkey's lips. It was 
amusing to see the expression of supreme repose and delight that 



THE PROFESSOR'S GLASS EYE. 



179 



came over that little brute's face as he drew the white smoke into his 
lungs and stood there with half-closed eyes wagging his tail and rock- 
ing his body to and fro as though he wanted nothing more on earth. 
It was no trick at all for him to find a pocket-handkerchief in the sand 
after he had first scented it, and he could reach around with his teeth 
and unbuckle his saddle 
strap as neatly and quickly 
as his master could do it. 
Then with his foreleg- he 
would paw off his bridle, 
and thus prepare himself 
for rest. 

Speaking of the Pro- 
fessor starting with us re- 
minds me of an amusing 
incident that occurred to 
him during the ball game. 
When game began, I set 
my camera upon the sands 
of the Desert and took a 
seat preparatory to scoring 
the game. The Professor 
happened along at that 
moment and, feeling some- 
what fatigued after his ride, 
stretched himself out upon 
his back, and, with his head 
upon my camera and his 
hat over his eyes, was soon 
sound asleep. Pretty soon 
his hat fell off, but the Pro- 
fessor slumbered sweetly just the same, his sound eye closed and his glass 
eye staring up at the sky. Presently along came a Bedouin peddler 
with a trayful of coins, curios, etc., and seeing the Professor reclining 
upon the sand he knelt down beside him and in broken English began 
upon an encomium of his wares, offering the Professor his choicest bits. 




THE KHEDIVE OF EGYPT. 



\^ 



i8o 



A GENTLE SNORE. 



with his most enticing grimaces and at his most tempting prices. For 
fully five minutes he must have talked to that unfeeling glass eye, and 
he would probably have continued longer had not a gentle snore from 
the Professor caused him to look sharply at the sleeper's face, and then 



iU>l 



V 




THE DAHAEIE, OR PASSENGER BOAT OF THE NILE. 



hurry away with his wares. "Prof" awoke fifteen minutes later, with- 
out having heard a word of the Bedouin's eloquence. 

The following day and night, our last in Cairo, were spent in taking 
a farewell stroll through the ancient city, most of us visiting the Mosques 



SACRED SLIPPERS. 



l8l 



of Sultan Hassan and of Mohammed Ali. The mosques stand upon 
the highest point of the city near the citadel, which is now occupied, of 
course, by English soldiers. Before entering we were compelled to 
slip our feet into ungainly-looking yellow slippers, lest our infidel heels 
should defile the marble floors. We tried hard to purchase the slippers 
we wore, but when we offered ten times the value of the ill-shaped foot- 
casings, we were met with a determined refusal, on the ground that 
such a sale would be sacrilegious. The Hassan Mosque, now several 
centuries old, is fast falling into decay, but the Mosque of Mohammed, 




COMMON RIVER BOATS ON THE NILE OPPOSITE CAIRO. 



where the Khedive worships, is in an excellent state of preservation. 
Its great walls of polished marble and alabaster, and the softened light 
of its beautiful stained-glass windows form as elegant an interior as 
any in Cairo. The view obtained from the citadel is without doubt 
one of the grandest in the world. From its walls can be seen Cairo, 
spread out like a great panorama, with the majestic Nile reaching away 
up the valley, and the Pyramids of Cairo as well as those at Sakarah, 
the latter twenty miles distant. One could easily spend six months in 
Cairo and the surrounding valley of the Nile, and then come away 



iSa 



THE BOY'S EDUCATION. 



without having finished what must always remain one of the most inter- 
esting countries upon the globe. We managed, however, to cover con- 
siderable ground during our brief stay, and most of us doubtless brought 
away a fairly good idea of the city, its people, and their peculiar customs. 



i*j 



ftr: itntttsM 














A NATIVE EGYPTIAN SCHOOL IN FULL OPERATION. 



Some of these customs would not charm our American youngsters, 
notably that of the private school system, where a few boys (the girls' 
education not being of any account in Eg)'pt) are grouped in an out-of- 
the-way corner of the Mosque buildings, squatting on the ground as 



NATIVE BARBER SHOPS. 



i8- 



they pursue their tasks, the stern old teacher sitting over them rod in 
hand, the petty sovereign of a by-no-means submissive and loyal con- 
stituency. The native barber-shops too, were curious in their way, and 
few of us cared to trust our faces to the tender mercies of their owners. 




SCENE IN A CAIRO BARBER-SHOP. 



On the day of our arrival in Cairo, President Spalding had, through 
the American Consul General, expressed to the Khedive his willing- 
ness to play a game of ball in the presence of His Highness before 
"we left Cairo. But the Khedive had left the city for his Nile 



1 84 QUIETING A PEDDLER. 

Palace on state affairs, and sent Mr. Spalding word that, though 
he would be unable to return to the city, he should be pleased to 
receive our party at his Nile Palace and witness our exhibition there. 
To remain, however, would have caused us a delay of fully a week, 
and as we could ill spare this time we were unable to accept the Royal 
invitation. 

We left Cairo at half-past eleven on the mornihg of February nth, 
our destination being Ismalia, the little cit}' on the banks of the Suez 
Canal, midway between Suez and Port Said. When our train stopped at 
the station of Ismalia we were beset, as we had been at Cairo, by natives 
who insisted upon taking charge of our baggage, in selling us food, or 
by some other means enriching themselves at our expense. A refusal 
upon our part had no effect whatever upon their persistency. The 
entire horde seemed to be under the management of a well-grown 
Egyptian boy of about seventeen years, and he flew from one group to 
another urging them on in their persecution of our party and taking 
the coins which they had succeeded in securing from their sales. It 
was not until John Healy got at the seat of the trouble, by quieting this 
fellow, that we were left in peace. John caught sight of him about forty 
feet away waving his arms and dancing about a group of little Arab 
boys. Unceremoniously picking up a big yellow orange from the bas- 
ket of a boy who stood near, the All-America pitcher sent an " inshoot " 
at the Egyptian with all the speed he could put into it. The orange 
came in contact with the back of the peddler's neck, just at the base of 
the skull, and vanished into a million pieces, but it sent the Egyptian 
sprawling into the middle of his fellows, and he lay upon the ground 
with his hands to his head, probably in the belief that he had been 
kicked by an Egyptian donkey. Pretty soon he got up slowly, walked 
over to the curbing and sat down, where in a half-dazed way he watched 
our party until we wel^s out of sight, but he hadn't a word to utter. 

THE SUEZ CANAL. 

At five o'clock that evening we boarded a small steamer and began a 
five hours' journey of forty-three miles up the Canal to Port Said. The 
night was beautiful, a full moon lighting up the blue waters of the big 
ditch, and the barren, weird-looking desert which stretched away on 



THE SUEZ CANAL. 



185 



each side of us. A better opportunity for seeing this great artificial 
waterway could scarcely have been afforded us, and the majority of the 
party remained upon deck during the entire passage. The canal has 
a mean depth of 27 feet and varies in width from 250 to 350 feet. At 
the time of our passage thousands of men and camels were at work 
widening the canal. It is 87 miles in length, and midway between its 
terminal points are two natural lakes through which steamers are 

allowed to run at full speed. In the ordi- 
nary channel of the big ditch, however. 




HOW JOHN HEALY SETTLED THE EGYPTIAN PEDDLER. 



Steamers are not permitted to proceed at a speed of more than five 
miles an hour. 1 was surprised to learn the rates of toll charged a 
vessel for passage. The " Salier," for instance, a ship of about 3200 tons 
burthen, paid a toll of 20,000 francs and half a franc per head on each 
passenger, thus making her tollage for the round trip from Bremen to 
Australia something over $8000. The Canal Company have fixed the 
toll at considerably under the cost of time and money that a vessel would 



1 86 CHANGING VESSELS. 

be put to in going around the Cape. Thus, although the toll seems ex- 
-cessive, the expense is not so great as it would be for the vessel to go 
around Africa by the old route. We passed not less than a score of 
big steamers en route for the Red Sea, and the sound of our mando- 
hns and guitars and Mrs. Lynch's cornet brought the passengers of 
most of them to the ship's rail as the big crafts, with their flashing 
electric lights, steamed slowly by us. At 10.30 we reached Port Said, 
the northern terminus of the canal, and climbed up the side of the 
handsome North German Lloyd Steamer " Stettin," where we found a 
hospitable lot of officers and an excellent dinner awaiting us. An hour 
later we steamed out of Port Said Harbor ujaon our journey across the 
Mediterranean. This voyage was the roughest we had encountered 
thus far, and we arrived in Brindisi twelve hours late, the result of the 
storms encountered. The screw of the steamer was out of water every 
few moments, and we rolled about at a rate that made nearly all of us 
seasick. The snow-capjDed island mountains of Crete and Candia were 
the only glimpses of land we secured upon this voyage. At 12.30, on 
the afternoon of February 15th, the "Stettin" passed through the river 
"which leads from the bay to the Harbor of Brindisi. Finally her 
screw stopped before the quaint-looking and ancient little city, and a 
score of boats, with their Italian oarsmen, rowed out to the dock, with 
the Customs officers, our mail, and representatives of the various Brin- 
disi hotels. No sight could have been more welcome to us than the 
big packages of letters and American newspapers which our party 
received. They were the first we had seen since leaving home, although 
I believe some of the boys did secure a few ancient copies of The New 
York Herald at the American Minister's house in Cairo. Among the 
letters received by President Spalding was one from Secretary of State 
Bayard, requesting American Consuls and Ministers throughout Europe 
to extend every courtesy to our party. A long letter from Walter 
Spalding also gave us much baseball news of a gratifying character. 

ON EUROPEAN SOIL. 

Brindisi is a queer little Italian town, and as we had missed the train 
for Naples that day, thus being compelled to remain over night at the 
Grand East India Hotel, we took a stroll through the narrow-winding 



THROUGH PICTURESQUE ITALY. 187 

Streets, our ears being met with the sound of the guitar and mandoHn 
at nearly every turn. At supper we were entertained by a trio of 
typical Italian musicians, one a dark-eyed, swarthy- complexioned, hand- 
some Italian girl and the other two her brothers. They played as only 
Italians can play. All through Italy music seems to be a gift among 
the people, common as the gift of language. The big wood fires that 
burned in our rooms at Brindisi that night were very comfortable, for 
the raw wind of the storm still swept the coast, and most of us repaired 
to our apartments at an early hour to talk over the probable events of 
our tour through Europe. Our arrival upon European soil had put 
every man of our party in excellent spirits, for it seemed to us all that 
the greater part of our long journey had been covered, and that we 
were now really homeward bound. 

We took our departure from Brindisi the following morning, at nine 
o'clock, and after an interesting ride through picturesque Southern 
Italy, with its vineyards, its fertile valleys and its mountains, we arrived 
that evening upon the shores of one of the most beautiful harbors in the 
■world — the Bay of Naples. With the exception of four trunks and our 
band baggage, all the luggage of the party had gone on to Southampton 
from Port Said, on one of the North German Lloyd Steamers, so that 
we were not hampered by the great pyramid of baggage we had carried 
up to that point. 

Anson had the bat bag with him, however, and proposed that it 
.should come under the head of hand baggage. With this purpose he 
■endeavored to take it into the waiting-room of the station from which 
we were to be admitted to the train, and right here Anson was made 
to feel the power of the Italian Government. A little five-foot-two- 
inch, gold-laced railway official insisted that the bag was above the 
regulation weight, and told Anson that he must have it registered and 
pay extra fare thereupon. This was exactly what Anson proposed 
to avoid. The combat between Anson's well-known bluffing abilities 
and Italian authority was amusing. Here was a funny little old man, 
twice as aged and not one-third as big as the Captain of the Chicagoes, 
snapping his fingers in the latter's face. It was a species of kicking in 
which Anson had never before had any experience, and in which his 
old tactics did not stand him worth a penny. Anson had good judg- 



1 88 OLD VESUVIUS. 

ment enough, however, to understand that when a traveler in Italy- 
hits, opposes, or insults a railway official he insults, figuratively speak- 
ing, the King of Italy; so the "old man " contented himself with viciously 
chewing one end of his blonde moustache for a moment, after which he 
picked up the bag as though the bats had been so many matches, and, 
with a very red face, slammed it down upon the floor of the Register's 
office and demanded to know the amount of extra charge. It was told 
him, and he paid it. Indeed, he could do nothing else ; but how some 
of Anson's old tormentors in America, who delight to sit upon the 
"bleechers " and howl with laughter at every misplay or " kick " the big 
Captain may make, would have enjo)"ed the situation could they have 
been there. 

As we proceeded northward towards Naples the surrounding country- 
became more and more picturesquely beautiful. We ran through 
valleys with their groves of olive and orange trees and their hills 
topped by white-walled villages and ancient-looking castles, the turrets 
and towers of which reminded one of such history as he had read of 
Italy in its feudal periods. During the afternoon we got well up into 
the mountains and ran through the first snow storm of the trip. Then 
we descended into the valley again, and later on, just as the mantle of 
night had enveloped the snow-capped peaks and the pretty low-laying 
glades with their flocks and farm-houses, we came suddenly into view 
of the Mediterranean coast. Rounding a spur of the mountain, the 
Bay of Naples and the beautiful "Palisade City" of the Mediterranean, 
Sorrento, burst upon our view with its pyramids of yellow lights and 
its background of shadowy mountain peaks. It was an indescribably 
pretty picture, and we gazed upon it with many an exclamation of 
admiration until a turn in the road hid it from our view. Naples was 
not more than thirty miles distant upon the other side of the Bay, 
and as we were all awaiting impatiently the first glimpse of its lights, 
Fogarty, who sat next to one of the windows of our compartment, in 
which were Hanlon, Pettit, George Wright, Mr. Snyder, George Wood 
and myself, startled us all with an exclamation of astonishment : " There 
she is, boys ! There is old Vesuvius, as sure as I am a living man." In 
an instant we were all at Fogarty's side in the compartment, and look- 
ing throucrh the windows we saw the grreat volcano standing like a 



AT THE NEAPOLITAN DEPOT. 



189 



beacon ; its summit surrounded by a dull red halo and its crater every 
few seconds belching forth a sheet of lurid flame and lava. It was 
grand. It was awful to a degree that no description can portray. We 
looked and looked upon it until the guards had called out " Pompeii, 
Annunziata," and other historical stations about the base of Vesuvius, 
and until the walls of Naples itself hid the great mountain from our 
view. 

At the Neapolitan depot we were met by Mr. Spalding and Leigh 




THE PALISADE CITY OF THE MEDITERRANEAN. 



Lynch, who had come on from Brindisi one train ahead of us. We 
"were all ready for the drive to our hotel, when, much to our astonish- 
ment, we found ourselves surrounded by half a score of Italian police 
in their military cloaks and three-cornered hats. Finally, through the 
aid of an interpreter, we learned that while en route from Brindisi that 
afternoon, Martin Sullivan had playfully filched the horn of the guard, 
by which that official starts the train, a custom like that of the pulling 



190 



UNDER ARREST. 



of the bell rope, or a wave of the hand to the engineer by our American 
conductors. Without any idea of serious consequences, the boys had 
hidden the horn and had kept the guard in a state bordering upon 
insanity for perhaps an hour, when the horn was returned. The 
official's dignity had been offended, however, and he had promptly 
telegraphed the authorities at Naples, the terminal station of the train, 
with the result that we found ourselves under arrest when we arrived 
there. The queer feature of the arrest, however, was that we knew 
nothing about it until we had attempted to start for our hotel. It took 
the efforts of two or three interpreters and liberal promises upon the 
part of Mr. Spalding to straighten the affair out ; and after fifteen 
minutes' delay we finally started for the " Hotel Vesuve," which, by the 
way, is everything in the way of service, equipment or location that 
any visitor to Naples could desire. On the way from the depot, which, 
for a long distance led along the Bay's shore, we passed the entrance 
to the famous \"ia Roma, or "Toledo," the San Carlos Theatre, the 
Church of St. Francis, and the Royal Palace ; finally turning upon the 
Bay front again, upon which, just where the " Piazza Nazionale " begins, 
and in full sight of Castle Ova, the Bay of Naples, and Mount Vesuvius, 
stands the Hotel Vesuve. We were all thoroughly tired with our long 
trip from Brindisi, and after a charmingly served luncheon we retired 
to really magnificent apartments, from the windows of which we secured 
our first moonlit view of the finest harbor in the world. 

The bright light of a Neapolitan sun gilded the waters of the Bay 
the following morning as the boys stepped out upon the balconies of 
their bed-rooms, eager for a more extensive view of the city and its 
famous harbor. Castle Ova arose from the water in front of us, and 
further away lay the beautiful islands of Capri and Ischia, as the two 
points of the mainland stretched about them in the shape of a horse- 
shoe. To our right towered Vesuvius, its summit surrounded by a 
great cloud of dull gray smoke that rolled away, to finally mingle with 
the real clouds above. We could not dispose of our coffee and eggs 
quickly enough, and half an hour after arising left the hotel in small 
parties for different quarters of the town. Some of us started through 
the Piazza Nazionale to the Aquarium. Others entered the Via Roma 
and spent the morning in promenading the famous thoroughfare, bril- 



AN ENJOYABLE DAY. 



igr 



liant with its picturesquely attired crowds and rich shop window dis- 
plays. Others attended service in the magnificent Duomo, or Cathedral 
of Saint Maria, while still others secured carriages and drove through 
the beautiful environs of old Naples, with its ancient church edifices and 
historical palaces. At six o'clock that evening I met Manning, Pfeffer 
and Leslie Robinson at the hotel entrance. They had taken a train 
that morning for Annunziata, and spent the day in climbing to the top 
of old Vesuvius, approaching as near to its smoking, belching crater as 




VIA ROMA, lUE LEADING THOROUGHFARE OF NAPLES. 



they dared. They were tired out and covered with lava dust, but 
declared they would not have missed their experience for any con- 
sideration. 

Of course, every one was at the theatre that evening ; some prefer- 
ring the ballet at Bellini's, while others went to hear Lucretia Borgia 
at the magnificent San Carlos. Not more than half a dozen of us had 
assembled in the hotel smoking-rooms at midnight to exchange our 



192 



AT POMPEII. 



experiences of the day. Where the balance of the boys had gone and 
what they were doing I could only conjecture. A bulletin posted in 
the hotel office announced that no game could be played until Tuesday, 
the fourth day after our arrival. The following day was spent by most 
of us at Pompeii, and the scenes we beheld in the ruins of what was 
once a great and opulent metropolis, but which is now simply a black- 
ened mass of ruins, will linger in our memories for years to come. I 
made the trip with a party composed of John Ward, John Tener, Geo. 




REMAINS OF THE GRAND AMi ii i i HLAi Rt-. 



Wood, Ed Hanlon and "Mac." We reached Annunziata at 12.30, 
Laving left Naples at half-past eleven o'clock, and took carriages for 
the gates of Pompeii, distant about two miles. Here we paid our 
admission fee, purchased a printed description of the different objects 
of interest within the walls, obtained a guide and began our tour of the 
famous ruins. Although at the time of our visit one-third of the 
original cit)- still lay buried beneath the ashes belched forth by Vesuvius, 



I 



INTERESTING RELICS. 



193 



the work of excavation in the other two-thirds has been completed, and 
gives the visitor a fairly correct idea of the state of civilization, as well as 
of the customs and methods employed by the people of that unfortunate 
city, at the time of its destruction. 

Pompeii was destroyed in 79 a.d., and at that time, the damage done 
by a severe earthquake was just being repaired. The shower of ashes 
probably came down upon the city during the night, for many of the 
remains recovered were found in their beds. Since the excavations 




nil H.ii-jr RirrA. — n\c of Pompeii's palaces. 



began, the Government has erected a museum building near the 
entrance, and in this have been placed many of the interesting relics col- 
lected among the ruins. Others of these relics have been removed to 
the National Museum at Naples. Perhaps the most interesting of the 
objects in the Museum are the bodies. Of course, at the time of their 
discovery amidst the ashes, the flesh had long since turned to dust, but 
the sifting ashes had closed in around them, preserving the shapes as 
13 



194 



AMID THE EUINS. 



thoueh the bodies had been of bronze or iron, and when the excavators 
came upon any of these moulds they ceased work until the impressions 
had been filled with plaster. After the plaster had hardened, the sur- 
rounding ashes and lava were broken away and the plaster casts, in 
many of which the bones were well preserved, were removed to the 
Museum. The cast of a dog bent almost double, the muscles convulsed, 
and the bronze collar still about the neck, indicates the terror and tor- 
ture the poor beast must have suffered in the agonies of suffocation. 




STRADA DE AEUNDANCE — STREET OF PLENTY. 



After leaving the Museum we spent several hours among the ruins, 
strolling leisurely along the principal thoroughfares, such as the Strada 
de Abundance and the Strada Stabia, and in visiting the Civil Forum, 
the Triangular Forum, the Temples of Jove, of Isis and of Venus, the 
theatres, the former homes of wealthy Pompeiians with their marble 
statuary, fountains and hand-painted walls, and many other points to be 
seen in this relic of ancient greatness. Pompeii and its history must 



CLIMBING VESUVIUS. 



195 



necessarily be briefly alluded to in this volume, but there is material 
enoueh within those historical ruins to fill several volumes. While at 
Pompeii our party met Fogarty and Carroll. They had finished the 
tour of the city and were on their way to Vesuvius, bent upon climbing 
to its crater. I met Fogarty afterward in the Hotel Vesuve, and he 
told me of his experience in ascending the mountain. A railroad had 
been constructed up the side of Vesuvius and extended to a point not 
many hundred feet from its apex, but it recently took fire and had not 




THE MOLiNT \ ESLVILb RAILROAD Ab IT WAS. 



been reconstructed at the time of our visit. Indeed, it is stated that the 
Italian guides, who for ages past have carried tourists up the mountain 
in sedan chairs and "palkas," destroyed the railroad upon finding that 
it was interferinsf with their old-established source of income. So 
Fogarty and Carroll were compelled, as were all other visitors, to make 
the ascent on foot. I will give Fogarty's account as he told it : — 
" Carroll and I started," said he, " upon what did not seem to be such 



196 THE THROBBING MOUNTAIN. 

a big undertaking, but we soon discovered that the farther we pro- 
gressed the farther away seemed the top of the mountain, while the 
steeper and more difficult of ascent it became. Time passed, and we 
saw that what we had laid out for half a day was really the work of an 
entire day. We kept at it, however, with the perspiration streaming 
down our faces, while one of us would every now and then stumble and 
fall among the brown rocks and la^a ; but we shortened the time by 
cracking jokes at the expense of our guides, and lightened the task by 
every now and then pausing to look back down the side of the moun- 
tain. Of course, the view of the surrounding country and the Bay and 
City of Naples from Vesuvius is very grand. I cannot begin to describe 
it, and will not undertake it, but I would not have missed it, now that I 
have enjoyed it, for a great deal. As we approached the summit, the 
ashes that had fallen from the crater grew thicker and thicker until our 
feet sank almost to our ankles in the drifting cinders, while the air about 
us was filled with a fine dust that interfered not a little with our breath- 
ing. We got around on the windward side of the mountain, however, 
and escaped this annoyance to a very great degree. As we continued 
to ascend we could smell the smoke of the volcano, and could dis- 
tinctly feel the throbs of the mountain as it periodically belched forth 
its flames and clouds of smoke. It was awtully hard work, but Carroll 
and myself kept on until the guides called to us that we had ascended 
to as high a point as visitors usually went. Fred and I laughed at them, 
however, and went ahead, the guides remaining in the rear. As we 
proceeded, we began to notice little wreaths of smoke coming out from 
between the rocks, and further on we could see, not wreaths, but steady 
A'olumes of gray smoke coming out of the ground, much after the man- 
ner in which some of the scenes from Dante's Inferno have been illus- 
trated. The mountain now not only throbbed but positively trembled. 
The air orrew warm, and instead of the dust that had choked us before, 
we felt the cinders, of no delicate proportions, as they struck our hands 
and faces and fell round about us. Still, we kept on until we reached 
what I am sure must have been the outer edge of the crater, for beyond 
the edge over which we looked was a great basin of cinders, upon the 
opposite side of which I imagined was the crater proper, because we 
could see great masses of smoke rolling upward, while everj^ now and 



AT THE CRATER'S BRINK. 



197 



then we could distinctly see the force of the explosion as flame and 
smoke and pieces of rock were periodically thrown into the air. Was I 
frightened ? Yes, I was ; and now that I have gone through the expe- 
rience, I have no desire to repeat it. I must tell you, though, about our 
departure and why it was we left very suddenly, as we did. Carroll 
was standing near me, and we were both wondering as to the causes of 
the mountain's eruption, when suddenly the ground beneath us began 
to tremble violently. Carroll excused himself hastily and started for 
the foot of the mountain. I think I must have been fascinated, how- 




A PHOTOGRAPHIC PEEP INTO THE CRATER OF VESUVIUS. 




ever, for I could not have stirred from the spot to save me. I stood 
there with the cinders flying and the ground trembling, not knowing 
just whether I wanted to remain or to follow Carroll's example, when 
I was suddenly startled into immediate activity. The ground seemed 
to actually rise under my feet. A wave of hot air almost overpowered 
me and then an explosion, which sounded as though the whole top of 
the mountain must be leaving its moorings, made me imagine my last 
hour had come. I did not know which way to run. But when the lava 
began to fall in pieces as big as my fist, and larger, all about me, I made 



198 



INTERESTED ITALIANS. 



up my mind that any place was safer than the one I was in. I accord- 
ingly started on the run, and, fortunately, having taken the proper direc- 
tion, had, within a very few moments, put a safe distance between myself 
and the crater of Vesuvius. I never expect to make the ascent again, 
but if I ever do, I will not go as near the crater by a thousand feet as I 
went to-day." 

Upon the afternoon of the 19th February we played our first game 
upon European soil. At one o'clock the boys in uniform entered 
carriages, and without any special demonstration, drove along the Via 
Roma and on toward the Campo de Mart, or the "Field of Mars," 
Avhere the game was to be played. Upon the preceding day. United 
States Consul Camphausen, who was exceedingly kind and courteous 
to our party during its stay in Naples, had issued invitations to the 
members of the different diplomatic corps and to many prominent 
society people of Naples, and a large proportion of those invited were 
present. The grounds are beautifully located and are as well kept as 
any ball park in America. They were not enclosed, however, and there 
was no such thing as keeping the crowd from pressing upon the very 
heels of the players in their eager interest to watch every move the 
boys made. Haifa hundred elegant equipages, and nearly as many 
public cabs containing many richly-dressed ladies and the official repre- 
sentatives of half a score of nations, were gathered upon each side of 
the diamond, while the crowd, beginning- at the home plate, stretched 
away in two big lines to a point on each side far beyond the out-fielders' 
positions. 

Tener umpired the game, which began with Baldwin and Daly and 
Healy and Earle in the points. Meantime, the space in which the boys 
were expected to play had been narrowed down by the encroachments of 
the crowd until batting was dangerous and fielding well-nigh impracti- 
cable. The police force present was entirely inadequate, and, besides, the 
officers were too deeply interested in the game themselves to admit of 
their discharging their duties efficiently. Minister Camphausen armed 
President Spalding with an Italian phrase, which he assured A. G. 
would have a magical effect upon the crowd, and A. G. accordingly 
walked up and down the line, calling, "/;; di a tros ; In di a iros," 
while he waved the crowd back with his hands, but the Italians only 



AN UNMANAGABLE CROWD. ic,g 

laughed at A. G.'s very bad Italian, and pressed more closely than ever 
about the diamond. 

Then the fielders took a hand. When a ball was batted into the 
crowd the fielders charged after it, scattering people right and left. 
This had the desired effect for an inning or two, but the crowd closed 
in again, and just what President Spalding feared, happened in the third 
inning when a batted ball from Carroll took a big Italian over the eye 
and laid him out upon the ground. He didn't see any of the remainder 
of the game, for it had ended before he recovered his senses. Neither 
side scored a run during the first three innings, but in the fourth, Wood 
cracked out a single to left, got to second on Baldwin's somewhat 
unsteady delivery, stole third in good style, and crossed the plate on a 
passed ball. All-America did not long hold its lead, however, for in 
the last half of the fourth, Pettit got around the bases on a succession 
of battery errors and Pfeffer also crossed the plate. The crowd was 
well-niofh unmanao-eable when All-America came to the bat in the fifth, 
but after Hanlon had fouled out to Baldwin, Ward cracked out a three- 
bagger to centre, Brown followed with a single, and Fred Carroll next 
took a home run as his part of "the pie." Manning and Earle con- 
tributed two more runs, and before the inning closed the boys in blue 
and white had bettered their score by seven runs. At this period the 
crowd evidently thought the game was ended, for it rushed upon the 
field before the nines could change, and as none of our party were good 
at speaking the Italian language, we could not make them understand 
to the contrary. Besides, it would have been impossible for us to have 
handled so large a crowd had we spoken the language like natives. 
Ward, however, commanded his men to take their positions and claimed 
the game of Tener, which the latter gave him ; so that, technically, the 
game stood nine to nothing in favor of All-America. 

Our farewell night in Naples was spent by fully two-thirds of our 
party at the San Carlos Theatre, said to be one of the largest and cer- 
tainly one of the grandest theatres in Euro^De. Through the courtesy 
of the American Minister, a dozen or more of us occupied two of the 
gilded boxes in the first of six tiers which lined the vast auditorium, and 
I am quite sure that none of us ever witnessed a more brilliant scene of 
the kind than we looked upon that evening. The opera was "Lucretia 



200 MUSICAL ENTHUSIASM. 

Borgia." Gayorra, the great tenor, sang, and the magnificent audito- 
rium was filled with the wealth, the beauty and the royalt)' of Naples, 
in full evening dress. There is no sham about the production of an 
opera in Naples. Everything, in costume, in situation, in scenic effect, 
is genuine, through and through. For instance, in the gladiatorial scene 
that evening there were not less than 600 people upon the stage, 200 
of which were in the ballet and 400 or more of which constituted the 
spectators seated in the tiers of the gladiatorial arena. A noticeable 
thing about audiences in Italy, and particularly about that which filled 
the San Carlos that evening, was their familiarity with music and their 
readiness to distinguish and recognize creditable and discreditable work 
by the singers. Those who sat near us and about us seemed as familiar 
with the music as did the singers themselves, and I discovered more 
than one pretty Italian woman and her escort keeping time with their 
fingers to the singing and the orchestra, while they frequently hummed 
the air as the orchestra played it or as it was sung. Several times, in 
recognition of successful attempts at difificult executions in solo by 
Gayorra and his leading lady, the great crowd arose to its feet in a 
seemingly uncontrollable burst of enthusiasm that found vent in a wave 
of applause, and then was hushed immediately as the audience gained 
control of itself and smothered its enthusiasm for fear of drowning the 
succeeding notes of the sino-ers. I had often heard it said that a singer 
who could sing in Naples, Venice, Florence, or anywhere in Italy, was 
not afraid of criticism anywhere else in the world, and after that even- 
ing spent in the San Carlos, I understood why this was true. Italians are 
natural musicians, from little Pepino and Jaquito who play their violins 
and mandolins upon the street corners, to the great Gayorra, who is 
wedded to his Naples, and says that he is perfectly content to sing for 
Neapolitans so long as his voice is left to him. He sings, I believe, 
three nights in a week, receiving ^1600 per night, and invariably crowd- 
ing the house to its utmost capacit}'. 

We were to have left Naples the following morning at half-past 
eight, but on arrival at the depot, we found that the commissionaire, 
to whom Mr. Lynch had entrusted the all-important duty of securing 
our tickets, had not yet arrived at the station, so we were compelled to 
see our train depart for Rome with President and Mrs. Spalding, while 



STROLLING THROUGH NAPLES. 



20 r 



the balance of us piled our baggage in one corner of the waiting-room, 
and commissioning Clarence Duval as its guardian, broke away in con- 
genial groups to put in our time as best we might until the departure 
of the next train, at three o'clock that afternoon. We scattered through 
out the city for a farewell stroll upon the Via Roma, or a visit to the 
Aquarium, and a stroll through the Piazza Nazzionale, while some of 
us took carriages and drove to San Martino, the monastery upon one 
of the highest eminences about Naples, and from which one of the 




THE SUPERB COURT OF SAN MARTINO. 



most beautiful views imaginable of the city, its magnificent harbor, and 
the Islands of Capri and Ischia in the distance, can be obtained. From 
the monastery most of the boys went for a brief visit to the Naples 
Museum, which is without question one of the most interesting studies 
in Europe. It contains within its great halls magnificent collections of 
marbles, bronzes, antique paintings and articles of gold and silver, 
embracing in all more than one hundred and fifteen thousand speci- 



202 



THE MUSEUM. 



mens, from which one derives an excellent idea of the manners and 
customs of the ancients, as well as of the high state of civilization and 
luxury which they enjoyed. 

The great building, which one involuntarily stops to admire before 
entering, was begun in 1586, and was originally intended for a stable. 
It was abandoned, however, and left unfinished until 1610, when it was 
assigned to the University of Naples and used for educational pur- 
poses. Following the earthquake of 16S8, it was occupied by the law 




I IN A NEAPOLITAN STKHT. 



courts, and during the revolutionary periods of 1701 it was utilized as 
barracks for the troops. Later it was again devoted to educational 
purposes, and in 1790, by order of Ferdinand W, the building was 
largely added to and dedicated as an archaeological museum for all the 
specimens found in the excavations at Pompeii, Herculaneum, and 
Stabise. together with antiquities from the Museum at Capo di INIonte, 
the collections mainly of Pope Paul III. These invaluable stores of 



ROME. 



20 ' 



antiquities were afterward added to by the Bourbons of Naples, who 
finally declared the Museum to be their private property, but Garibaldi, 
in i860, proclaimed the Museum the property of the country, and did 
much toward enlarging the collections, as did afterward Victor Emanuel 
the Second. The cursory and hasty glance taken by our party as we 
hurried through these magnificent halls and paused momentarily before 
such incomparable pieces of sculptor work as the Farnese Bull and 
the Farnese Hercules, or 
silently admired the great 
paintings of almost every 
school of art for centuries 
past, only enabled us to 
imagine how very many 
profitable and delightful 
hours we might have spent 
in this Museum had more 
time been at our disposal. 

ROME. 

At three o'clock our party 
•entered the train at the 
Neapolitan station, and 
after another delightful ride 
through the picturesque 
rural districts of Italy, we 
arrived at historic Rome, 
the city of the Seven Hills, 
at nine o'clock the same 
evening. With little delay 
we entered carriages and 

drove directly to our hotels, the Chicago team going to the Hotel de 
Alamagne and the All-Americas, together with the newspaper repre- 
sentatives, to the Hotel de Capitol, at one end of the Corso. Rome 
was very much crowded with tourists at the time of our arrival, and we 
were exceedingly fortunate in obtaining such comfortable accommoda- 
tions. The following day Mr. Spalding and Manager Lynch called 




THE FAMOUS CORSO OF ROME. 



204 ABOUT THE CITY. 

upon the American Minister at Rome, Judge Stallo, of Cincinnati, and 
at this gentleman's office the representatives of our part)- received the 
first discourteous treatment that Ave had thus far met with upon our 
voyage around the world. I learned, from inquiries at Rome, that no 
more unpopular man ever represented the American Government there 
than Mr. Stallo, and from what little our part}' saw of the gentleman, 
we are quite ready and willing to credit the statement. He declared 
that he had never been interested in athletics, and did not propose to 
have his name made use of for mercenar}" purposes. As there were 
no enclosed grounds in Rome, and it was absolutely impossible for our 
teams to save an exhibition for monev, there was no occasion whatever 
for Mr. Stallo to take such a position. Moreover, we had simply called 
upon him as the representative in Rome of the American Government. 
He did not, however, extend to us even the common courtesies which, 
as American citizens, we had the right to expect. Fortunately, Mr. 
Charles Doughert}", Secretan," of the American Legation at Rome, and 
son of the eloquent Daniel Doughert}-, of New York, proved a genial, 
courteous gentleman, whose efforts in our behalf the entire part)- appre- 
ciated. He gave us much of his valuable time, and largel}- to his efforts 
the success of our exhibition in Rome was due. Our g-ame had been 
arranged for the third day after our arrival, so that we had ample 
opportunit}- for sight-seeing. 

On the morning after our arrival the part)-^ divided into groups of two 
and three, and. chartering carriages and guides, began the pleasant 
experiences which most of us had hoped for all our lives, and which all 
of us had anticipated from the time President Spalding made known 
his plan to return to America by way of Europe. I think St Peter's 
was the most important object of interest with us all. It requires a full 
day to get even a fair glimpse of the great edifice, its chapels, its 
galleries, and the \'atican. In the Sistine chapel ; in the long galleries 
of the \'atican with their grand paintings and mosaics ; and beneath 
the dome and towering arches of the great church itself, I met groups 
of the boys, silent and open-eyed, or inquiring and enthusiastic, as they 
realized with ever)- succeeding object upon which their eyes rested how 
inadequate had been the descriptions they had read of this great 
structure. \'olumes, descriptive and historical of St. Peter's, have been 



AT THE TOP OF ST. PETER'S. 



205 



written by men famous in literature and journalism, and I shall not 
attempt even a description of that of which Bayard Taylor, Nathaniel 
Hawthorne, Mark Twain, and others equally capable, have given such 
finished word paintings. Some of the more ambitious members of our 
party, John Tener, Jim Manning, Mark Baldwin, and others, climbed to 
the ball upon the dome of St. Peter's. From the piazza this big golden 
globule looks the size of a pumpkin, yet it will comfortably hold sixteen 
people, and a grand view of Rome is obtained therefrom. 




FRONT VIEW OF THE STUPENDOUS ST. PETER S. 



The following day was spent by most of our party in ancient Rome. 
Mack and myself took a carriage early in the morning, and amidst the 
ruins of the Forum ; the palace of the Caesars ; out upon the Appian 
Way as far as the tomb of St. Cecilia ; at the Catacombs ; in the churches 
and monasteries ; and everywhere else that we happened to wander, we 
met members of our party. Every moment of time in Rome was 
improved by the Spalding tourists. To one who has read anything of 



306 



MAGNIFICENT RUINS. 



the histor)' of the world's great empire, a drive through the districts of 
ancient Rome is indescribably interesting. All around one are evi- 
dences of the incomparable pomp and glory of the fallen city. As one 
stands upon the steps of the Capitol and looks over the waste of 
columns and arches and magnificently carv^ed pillars of stone of the 
Forum ; or stands within the Coliseum and looks upon its great tottering 
w^alls ; or passes under the Arch of Titus and out over the stones of the 
Appian Way, the same over Avhich rolled the chariots of the imperial 




THE RUINS OF I H K IciKTM. 



rulers of Rome in the days of its splendor, he is confronted on every 
hand with evidences of the fact that centuries ago there dwelt on this 
spot a people which, in point of wealth, power, and science, was not 
inferior to any of the nineteenth century. 

We were thoroughly tired out at the end of our second day in Rome, 
and after dinner, followed by a promenade on the brilliantly lighted 
Corso, the boys retired at an early hour so as to be ready for the game 



ROME OF TO-DAY. 



207 



in the Villa Borghese the following day. In speaking of the Corso, by 
the way, I am reminded that among Americans generally there exists a 
quite inadequate conception of Rome as one finds it to-day. It is not 
merely a city of ancient ruins and relics of departed splendor, of sand, 
and beggars, and unattractive architecture. On the contrary, modern 
Rome is an important centre of wealth, royalty, beauty and fashionable 
society. Few more brilliant scenes can be imagined than that encoun- 
tered on the Corso any afternoon from three to five o'clock. It is the 




THE GREAT TOTTERING. WALLS OF THE COLISEUM. 



fashionable drive and promenade of Rome, and here the wealth and 
beauty of the Eternal city may be seen any pleasant day at the hours 
mentioned. The shop windows and their contents are marvels of the win- 
dow-dresser's skill. The street is barely wide enough for two equipages 
to pass and the sidewalks are not over thirty-six inches across, yet I 
have seen as much life, as many people, as many magnificent equi- 
pages, and as much wealth, royalty and fashion on promenade in this. 



208 



A FEW iMOMENTS OBSERVATION. 



remarkable thoroughfare as I have ever seen upon the broad surface of 
the Champs Elysee. Indeed, one sees a very great deal of the world on 
this little street. For instance, as I stood in front of my hotel one after- 
noon the carriage of the Prince of Naples, containing the Prince and his 
uncle — the son and the brother of the King of Italy, passed. The royal 
livery of scarlet and gold and the magnificent horses and equipage 
attracted general attention as it swept along. Following was the 

landau of the widow of a 
deceased California miUion- 
aire, who each winter main- 
tains an eleo-ant establish- 
ment in Rome and spends 
her summers at Nice and 
Paris. Next came a party 
of young Englishmen, who 
seemed desirous of seeing 



and beinof seen, and follow- 




msf 



them 



m 



almost as magnificent as 
that of the Prince which 
had just passed was a Pa- 
risian adventuress, a beauti- 
ful woman, who had won 
something like a million and 
a half francs within a week 
at Monte Carlo. She had 
taken her winnings and re- 
tired to Rome, where she 
was living in a state of 
queenly splendor. 
One of the pleasantest incidents of our stay in Rome occurred upon 
the morning of Februar}^ 2 2d, when President Spalding accepted for the 
party an invitation extended by Dr. O'Connell, Director of the American 
College in Rome, to call at the college and meet the students. Accord- 
ingly at one o'clock on the day mentioned Chicago and All-America 
called at the college in a body, and in five minutes after entering the 



THE ARCH OF TITUS. 



THE AMERICAN COLLEGE. 



2og 



gates we had all the students, some sevent}' or more, around us in the 
college garden. They were big, healthy-looking fellows representing a 
score of the cities of the United States ; and how glad they were to see 
us. Ryan and one or two others met old schoolmates among them, and 
the meeting under such circumstances was exceedingly pleasant to both 
parties. All of these boys were thorough baseball enthusiasts, and of 
course were present in a body at our game upon the following day. 
"We are fond of baseball, if 
we are studying for the 
Priesthood," said one fine 
athletic-looking fellow t(j 
me; "and, as I tell Dr. 
O'Connell, we will make 
good priests if we never 
do anything worse than 
harbor a love and admira- 
tion for the good old game 
of ball. Do we play ? Oh, 
yes ; we get out every 
Saturday during the sum- 
mer and have some slashing 
good games. Have we a 
good team ? Yes, half a 
dozen of them. But we do 
not get half the opportunity 
\ve would like in which to ^ 
exercise." After an in- 
formal chat, Clarence Duval 
became the centre of at- 
traction for probably ten 
minutes, and his exhibition of baton swinging, together with an illus- 
tration of plantation dancing, was plainly a treat to every man in the 
place. Afterwards we repaired to one of the class-rooms, and with a 
glass of Bordeaux drank an acknowledgment of the brief but hearty 
addresses by Bishop McOuade, of Rochester, then on a vist to Rome, 
Bishop Payne, of Virginia, and Dr. O'Connell, President Spalding also 
14 




THE AK,CH OF SEPTIMUS. 



lO 



THE VILLA BORGLIESE. 



adding a reply. The class bell finally sounded, and when we said good- 
bye to the students, every one promised to be present at our game on 
the morrow, and it is needless to say the promises were kept. 

Our game in Rome was played upon the afternoon of February 
23d. During the morning, after several desperate struggles with the 
Italian language, I had obtained permission of the authorities to have 
the party photographed within the Coliseum, and when the boys drew 
up in front of the famous structure at half-past one o'clock, we found the 
photographer awaiting us. He grouped us upon the crumbling arches 
of the great arena and made a view that must prove a valuable memento 




PANORAMIC VIEW OF ROME FROM THE SHORE OF THE TIBER. 



Then we re-entered our carriages and drove to the Villa Borghese. No 
more beautiful spot could have been selected than that which we played J 
upon, through the courtesy of the Prince Borghese. The Villa itself 
is a magnificent private park, which is thrown open to the public' 
between the hours of two and five on Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday 
of each week, and the Piazza de Sienna, where our game took place, is 
a picturesque glade, its surface as smooth as any ball park at home, 
with ascending terraces on two sides and at one end. Upon these ter- 
races, shaded by the great forest trees that have stood there for decades. 



HOYALTY SEES A GAME. 



21 1 



assembled the representatives of the weakh, royalty and blue blood of 
Italy. King Humbert drove up quietly when the game was about half 
over and saw nearly all of the remaining innings, while of the others 
who remained until the last ball was batted, were the Prince of Naples, 
Prince Borghese and family. Princess Torlonia, Count Ferran, the 
Princess Castel del Fino, Count Gionatti, Senora Crispi, wife of the 
Prime Minister, with her daughters, Secretary Charles Dougherty and 
ladies, the Class of the American College at Rome, resident and visiting 
American and English tourists and representatives of the social and 
artistic circles of the city. As the teams came upon the grounds the boys 
of the American College gave them three rousing cheers and a " tigah," 




THE APPTAN WAV AND RUINS OF THE GREAT AQUEDUCT. 

and then, after fifteen minutes of practice work, they began what was, 
perhaps, the most remarkable game of the trip. Each team was anxious 
to win the first professional game of baseball played in Rome. In order 
to give the spectators a couple of innings of exhibition play, the game 
was cut down to seven innings. Healey umpired, with Crane and Earl 
and Tener and Daly in the points. Chicago went first to the bat, but 
failed to get a man to first base, after which All-America shoved up two 
runs on a brilliant home-run hit by Carroll that raised the crowd off its 
feet. Chicago opened the second with Anson at the bat, who sent a hot 
one to Ward and was retired at first. Then Pfeffer cracked out a pretty 



212 



OFF FOR I-LCREyCE. 



double and scored on Williamson's single, Williamson next reaching 
second on Tener's poor throw to first, third on Burns' out, and the plate 
on a wild pitch. Double plays, clean hitting and brilliant fielding 
marked the next four innings, neither side getting a man past the plate 
until Tom Burns sent the ball into far right field for three bases and 

scored on a passed ball. All- 
America failed to better its score in 
the last half and the victory went to 
Anson's men by a score of 3 to 2. 
The assemblage of 3500 spec- 
tators was not only appreciative 
but critical, and the few errors 
scored were received verj' quietly, 
though the brilliant fielding was 
enthusiastically applauded, this 
doubtless being due to the pres- 
ence of so large a number of 
Americans. The two innings of 
exhibition work which followed 
were as brilliant as the invincible 
in-field of Chicago and the wonder- 
ful base-running of All- America 
could make it, and a chorus of 
hearty cheers went up as the boys 
finally lifted their caps and made 
their way to the carriages. Our 
game at Rome was a success so- 
cially and artistically. 

On Sunday, Februar)^ 24th, we 
left Rome for Florence, at 12.30 
p. M.. not a few of the boys having 
attended services at St. Peter's and St. Paul's during the morning. 
The journey was scarcely an interesting one, for. although the sur- 
rounding countn,- was picturesque and beautiful, the daj- was cold and 
bleak and we were anxious to reach our destination. At half-past 
eio-ht we entered the depot at Florence and were soon quartered at 




COLf^IN OF THE CONCEPTION. 



HISTORIC PLACES. 



21 



the Hotel de Europe, a comfortable inn and only a stone's throw from 
the right bank of the historic Arno. No one cared to inspect Florence 
by gaslight, under the circumstances, and all retired soon after arrival. 
Florence is one of the most interesting and beautiful cities we were to 
see in Europe, so all the boys partook of an early breakfast the fol- 
lowing morning, and were soon after scattered through the city. The 
beautiful Duomo, or Cathedral of St. Maria, was unanimously voted by 
those of us who saw it to 
possess the grandest exte- 
rior of any structure we 
had yet seen. The Pitti 
and Uffiza galleries, the lat- 
ter containing the Venus 
de Medici ; the home and 
studio of Michael Angelo; 
the church of Santa Croce 
in front of which Savona- 
rola was burned at the 
stake, and which from the 
time of its construction has 
been connected v/ith many 
terrible passages of his- 
tory; the palace of the 
Medicis; the quiet flowing 
waters of the beautiful 
Arno, and many other cele- 
brated points of interest 
were gone through rapidlj^ 
and I say this with regret, 
for one would fain spend 
weeks where we spent hours, among the works of old Masters, which 
we had so little time to look upon. 

Mr. Leroy de Koven, the scion of an American family of that name 
now residing in Florence, did much toward making our game in 
Florence a social success. The teams themselves took care of the 
artistic part of it, as the score will show. We played upon the Cascine, 




GRAND EXTERIOR OF THE DUOMO OF FLORENCE. 



214 



A GOOD GAME. 



or race-course grounds of Florence, and. like the grounds of Rome, 
they are beautifully surrounded, being approached by a charming drive 
along the Arno and through one of the prettiest public parks in Europe. 
The game was witnessed by an assemblage which, though small, con- 
tained some of the bluest blood in Italy, royalt}- being well represented 
in the Marquisa Genora, Marquis and Marquisa Torri Giana, Baron 

and Baronessa Levi. Conte and 
Contessa Fabricotti, Conte and 
Contessa Geradesca, Baronessa 
\ on de Heim, Principe Strozzi, 
Marquisa Balbi and many others, 
while visitinor and resident Ameri- 
cans to the number of three hun- 
dred, as well as the members of 
the Florence Jockey Club and their 
ladies, embracing many Floren- 
tines of wealth and position, com- 
pleted what was, with litde ques- 
tion, the most fashionable assem- 
olage of spectators that we played 
before durincf our tour of the 
vrorld. The srame itself was an 
exceedino^lv interesting one. Sel- 
dom have I seen better fielding, and 
I am safe in saying that nothing 
but the consideration which the 
boys entertained for Mr. Spalding, 
together with recrard for their own 
good reputations and the presence 
of so many distinguished people, 
prevented an outbreak upon more 
than one occasion. As it was, there was more than one thing said 
" between the teeth." and many a trick was resorted to upon the field 
that afternoon which showed how ver)- much in earnest the boys were 
and how intense was the rivalrj' between the teams. Chicago tried 
hard and desperately to win, but Baldwin did not seem to be able to 




STATUE OF MICH-iEL .VNGELO. 



FISA, GEAOA AND SAN REMO. 215 

get the ball where he wanted it, and the All-Americas, who ran bases 
like so many fiends, won the game by a score of 7 to 4. 

We departed from Florence at 5 o'clock the following morning, for 
Nice. The weather was wet and disagreeable as our train pulled out 
of the station. With our departure from Florence we practically com- 
pleted our stay in Italy, and that evening we slept on French soil in one 
of the most famous and fashionable resorts of all Europe, Nice. Sara 
Bernhardt and the Prince of Wales were both in the city, besides any 
number of people prominent in Parisian, London, New York and 
Chicago society, for the day following was the day of the Flower 
Carnival, one of the greatest of the gala days of Nice. The scenery 
en route from Florence to Nice is by far the most picturesque we have 
seen in Europe. The road runs along the shore of the Mediterranean 
for nearly its entire distance, one moment winding around the edge of 
a bold cliff, at the base of which the waters dash themselves into clouds 
of spray, and the next plunging into a tunnel, from which we emerged 
only to find ourselves upon the side of another cliff with the blue 
waters of the Mediterranean stretching away to the horizon. 

A few hours out from Florence we entered Pisa, and obtained an 
excellent view of its famous leaning tower. At Genoa we stopped for 
luncheon, and when we stopped at the next station found that Fred 
Pfeffer was not with us. He had been left at Genoa, but followed on 
the next train, reaching Nice a few hours after we did. During the 
afternoon we passed through the little city of Diana Maria, which was 
ruined by an earthquake during the winter of '85, over four hundred 
people being killed or seriously injured. There did not seem to be a 
building in the city, and there certainly was none in sight of our train, 
which was not more or less damaged by the agitation of the earth's 
surface. Building- after buildingr stood with cleft walls and bare rafters, 
just as the earthquake had left it, the scene being one of indescribable 
desolation. Leaving this unfortunate city, Ave rode through some 
grand mountain scenery, with little villages clustered in the valleys below 
on one side of our train and the sea upon the other. We finally 
stopped at San Remo, where lay the late Emperor of Germany during 
his fatal illness; and then, as darkness settled down upon us, and 
the yellow lights began to gleam in the little harbors along the shore, 



21 6 FARE FOR A MONKEY. 

we entered the station of Vingt Mille, twenty miles from Nice, on 
the French border. 

Under ordinary circumstances we would have stopped here but 
twenty minutes. As it was, however, an incident, no less amusing 
afterward than it was annoying at the time, and similar to Martin 
Sullivan's experience with the Italian railway guard's horn, delayed us 
over an hour. It seems that Crane, Fogarty and Carroll occupied a 
compartment with two over-fastidious Italians, and they took offence 
when they imagined that the Americans were making them objects of 
ridicule. Accordingly, when the guard passed through the compartment 
they called him, and got even with the Americans by informing him that 
Crane had a monkey in his pocket, which, doubtless, was riding free of 
charge. The boys, unfortunately, had been having a little fun at the 
expense of the guard, and he was only too ready to seize this opportunity 
for revenge. He therefore insisted that Crane should pay fare for the 
monkey. Crane, of course, refused — indeed, laughed at the idea — for the 
monkey was no larger than a good-sized rat and was snugly tucked 
away in the New Yorker's overcoat pocket. The guard said nothing 
more, and we arrived at Vingt Mille, where our baggage was examined 
by the customs authorities. When we attempted to re-board our train, 
however, we were stopped, and while we were indignantly demanding 
an explanation, which the Italian-speaking officials could not give us, 
our train started out of the station before our eyes. Finally, we obtained 
an interpreter in the person of the cashier of the Italian dining-room in 
the station. We were then informed that the party could not leave the 
place because one of our passengers had not settled his railway fare. 
Upon further inquiry, we found that this passenger was Mr. Crane's 
monkey, and Ed was obliged to fork out seventeen francs for his 
Japanese pet's passage. Fifteen minutes later the official came back to 
us, stating that the fare for monkeys was nine francs more than he 
had charged us, and that he would be compelled to collect this. Crane 
was angr)' enough to have thrown the fellow through the window, and 
indignantly refused to pay another franc, with the result that within five 
minutes we were again completely surrounded by a cordon of soldiers, 
and Crane, alternately laughing and swearing at this imposition of Italian 
rule, went down into his pocket and paid the balance. Then as we 



AT NICE. 



217 



were getting upon the train the interpreter mildly informed Mr. Spalding 
that he owed him twenty francs, or four, dollars, for services as 
arbitrator, and if the fellow had not gotten out of the reach of Al's 
foot just as he did, he would certainly have felt its force. 

At last we pulled out of the station and sped on toward Nice, past 
Monte Carlo, past Monaco, until we finally came to a halt in the station 
of Europe's great pleasure resort. The litde city was greatly crowded, 
in view of the approaching " Battle of Flowers " and it was only after 




PANORAMIC VIEW OF THE PRINCIPALITY OF MONACO. 



some difficulty that we succeeded in securing quarters at the Interlachen 
Hotel. The day following our arrival was an exceedingly unpleasant 
one. It had rained all night and the steady downpour had not ceased 
for an hour during the entire day. Of course the flower carnival was 
suspended and the beautiful floral decorations that signaled the approach 
of the battle in all quarters of the city looked sorry enough. During 
the afternoon we learned that there were no grounds in Nice suitable 



2X8 



MONTE CARLO. 



for field sport of any kind and that, consequently, we would be unable 
to give an exhibition ther^. One would suppose that Nice, above all 
other places would be provided with well-equipped athletic grounds, 
tennis courts, cricket fields, and the like, but there is not even the 
suspicion of a cricket oval, to say nothing of a ball field within the limits 
of the city. The announcement of no game proved a keen disappoint- 




THE SUPER); THEATRE OF MONTE CARLO. 



ment to two or three hundred Americans who were in the city, but 
there was no help for it. 

While the festivities of the Flower Carnival had been prevented, or 
rather postponed by unfavorable weather, rain did not in any way affect 
the attendance in the world-famed gaming halls of Monte Carlo, and 
our entire party improved the opportunity to visit them. I have been 
told since my visit to Monte Carlo that there is nothing else like it in 



ELEVEN DOLLARS FOR LUNCHEON. 219 

the world, and this I am perfectly willing to believe. The grandeur of 
the great gambling hall we entered is unequaled by the interior of any 
theatre or public hall I saw in Europe. Beautiful grounds, made as 
charming to the eye as the skill of the landscape gardener can make 
them, and brilliant with a thousand gas jets, surround the building. On 
the opposite side of the plaza is a sumptuously equipped hotel, and next 




ANTE-ROOM OF THE CASINO. 



to that is a gorgeously fitted cafe to which one can escape from the heat 
of the gambling hall for a cooling ice or a bit of luncheon. Ward, by 
the way, dropped into this cafe during the evening and was charged the 
modest sum of ^4.80 for a dish of asparagus, $5.20 for half a cold 
chicken, and ^i.oo for a cup of coffee. Of course he paid it, which was 
the only thing he could do, but he remarked upon leaving the cashier's 
desk that the proprietors of the place must certainly have taken him 



2 20 A GHAi-HAIRED GAMBLER. 

for a gambler, and a ver\- flush one at that. Such is the basis upon 
which all things are conducted at Monte Carlo. Those who have grold 
seem to regfard it as so much dross. Those who have not gfold and who 
cannot obtain it, too frequently end their lives as not worth the li\-ing. 

Upon entering the building, one leaves his coat, hat and cane in the 
ante-room, in charge of a liveried attendant, passes through a magnifi- 
cent louncrinsf saloon, where grentlemen are smokinor and chattinor among- 
themselves or with prettily-attired, bright-eyed, attractive-looking French 
women, and then on into the great oramblinor haU itself with its loftv 
ceilings, crystal chandeliers, moquette carpets, and magnificendy deco- 
rated walls. Nine big double tables are in full blast, and about each of 
these are gathered from 75 to 150 people, representing almost every 
nation of the globe, making their bets and losing or winning money. 
Duchess and courtesan, prince and adventurer, gendeman and con- 
fidence man, may be found jostling each other as they place their bets. 
Richly-dressed w'omen, some w^rinkled and gray-headed and others fair- 
faced and lovely to look upon, pass from table to table in search of the 
luck that comes to but few of them, all seemingly slaves to the one 
consuming passion of gambhng. 

I saw a crrav-haired, diamond-bedecked, bonv-fincrered old woman 
sitting at a table with a pile of gold in front of her, stacked almost 
bosom high. Fortune seemed to smile upon her with every bet she 
made, and her long, slender, colorless fingers plunged in and out among 
the piles of gold in front of her, while her quick, resdess eyes watched 
ever)- jump of the ivorj- ball in the roulette wheel. \^'hether she lost 
or won her face never changed its expression. Opposite her was one 
of the prettiest fairest faces I had ever looked upon ; that of a young 
girl, who ner\-ously fingered the few last pieces of monej- that lay upon 
the table before her. The old lad\-, I was told bv mv guide, was an 
English Duchess, who came to Monte Carlo regularly ever)- spring for 
t\vo or three months' indulgence at the gaming table. Her winnings had 
been enormous, and her losings equally great during the past score ot 
years ; still she came as regularly as each spring made its appearance. 
The prett)--faced girl opposite was one of the many preny creatures 
who wander in there, lose their little wealth, and then turn to some 
admiring fellow who is willing to stake them to the extent of his admi- 



WOOING FORTUNE. 22 1 

ration aad his pocket book. Many a poor fellow has lost a fortune at 
these tables, and sent a bullet or a knife through his breast on the 
marble steps outside. The attendance at the Casino, by which name 
the great gambling hall is known, for February of 1889, is said to have 
exceeded, by something like 2 1 ,000 people, the attendance for the corres- 
ponding period of the year before. The number of suicides is also 
stated to be correspondingly heavy, nine having been known in that 
period, to say nothing of those which the police, for reasons best known 
to themselves, had failed to report. Such examples, however, do not 
seem to have any effect upon the frequenters of Monte Carlo. They 
eo and come, lose and win night after nio-ht, in the face of the realiza- 
tion that the chances of winning are one in ninety, with almost the cer- 
tainty of a suicide's grave staring them in the face at the end of it all. 

Everybody, however, who visits Nice goes to Monte Carlo. An 
American would no more think of going to the south of France without 
seeing Monte Carlo than an Englishman would think of visiting America 
without seeing Niagara Falls, and every one who goes there becomes 
wicked enough for the time being to gamble, if only just a little. Monte 
Carlo has a history with which most of my readers are doubtless familiar. 
It is embraced within the Principality of Monaco and is practically under 
the protection of the French Government. Still it is an independent 
principality, as the rule of the Prince of Monaco is almost absolute, and 
as the greatest source of the principality's wealth is its gambling hall, 
there is small wonder that the evil is tolerated. It is about thirty 
minutes' ride from Nice, on the Rivieri, and without question is one of 
the most exquisitely beautiful places in the world. All of our party 
durine our visit to the Casino wooed the Goddess of Fortune, and some 
of us quite successfully. Fogarty quit four hundred francs ahead ; Geo. 
Wood did nearly as well ; and Captain and Mrs. Anson each returned 
to Nice with a handful of gold. There were others, however, who left 
within the gilded walls of the Casino a considerable portion of their own 
cash. President Spalding "quit winner," but the merchant of Nassau 
street " dropped his little pile," and came away a sadder but wiser man. 

The second day after our arrival at Nice, to which the flower festival 
had been necessarily postponed, was characterized by perfect weather. 
The sun shone down upon the blue waters of the Mediterranean 



222 



THE J^ LOWER FESTIVAL. 



and warmed die wet verdure and soil into bris-dit fresh life, while thou- 

I sands of people flocked to the beau- 
tiful Avenue des Anglaise, where 
luring the entire day elaborate pre- 
parations had been going on for the 
event of the afternoon. This famous 
avenue on the shore of the Mediter- 
ranean is one of the most beautiful in 
Europe, and on the day of the carnival 
presented an attractive picture, with 
^l its magnificent private and public 
hotels and its gaily-decorated booths, 

I extending for a distance of perhaps 
some twenty blocks. Gendarmes were 
stationed every twenty feet to main- 

i tain order; brig-ht-colored ribbons 
and bunting were flying from every 
booth ; French women, attired as only 
a French woman can attire herself, 
laughed with, flirted and jostled the 
sterner sex alonsf the walks ; while 
boys bearing huge baskets of flowers 
circulated among the crowds selling 
to all who would buy. About three 
o'clock elegant equipages literally 
covered with flowers began to arrive, 
and for two hours these promenaded 
up and down the avenue, while beau- 
tiful women, kid-gloved gallants and 
brightly-dressed children pelted each 
other with flowers to their hearts' con- 
tent. About four o'clock, the drag 
containing the Prince of Wales and a 
dozen of his friends, among whom 

PANEL DECORATluN IN THi; CASINO. 5" 

were several pretty American and 
English girls, whose names I was unable to learn, joined the procession. 




ON TOWARD PARIS. 



223 



Of course, the Prince was the cynosure of all eyes, and if his taste is 
to be judged by the size of 
the bouquets he threw and 
the method with which he 
bestowed them, his High- 
ness, though no longer a 
young man, has still an 
excellent eye for womanly 
loveliness ; and he had a 
great array of it to select 
from that afternoon, for 
never in my life had I seen 
a larger concourse of beau- 
tiful women or a more bril- 
liant picture of its kind than 
that of this Flower Car- 
nival. 

We all left Nice in the 
morning of March ist, at 
six o'clock, but the majority 
of our party laid over at 
Lyons for the night. Ward 
and myself, however, were 
too eager to reach Paris to 
submit to any such delay, 
and so kept on our way, 
reaching Paris about eleven 
o'clock the following morn- 
ing. There was snow on 
the ground at Lyons, and it 
was chilly and disagreeable. 
When we two entered the 
environs of Paris the next 
morning, however, the sun 
was shining brightly, and 
the air was as balmy and ethereal as we had left it at Nice. From the 




PANEL DECORATION IN THE CASINO. 



2 24 A JilDICULOUS DEMAND. 

depot we drove straight to the banks of the Seine, on past the magnifi- 
cent Hotel de Ville and Cathedral of Notre Dame, into the Rue Rivoli, 
and thence past the Louvre into what is the most imposing thoroughfare 
in the world — the Avenue de 1' Opera, finally crossing upon the Rue de la 
Paix and turning into the Rue Caumartin, where we stopped in front of 
the Hotel St. Petersbourg. A. G. and Leigh Lynch met us at the door, 
and soon John Montgomery and I had removed all evidences of the 
railway ride. We found, upon arrival, that the heads of the party had 
experienced much difficulty in obtaining enclosed grounds for an exhi- 
bition in Paris, and it was not until we had been there for several days 
that the Pare Aristotique, on the banks of the Seine and but a short 
distance from the then unfinished Eiffel Tower, was secured. Mean- 
time, our party saw as much of Paris as American energy and limited 
time permitted of. 

Ward and myself managed to get into trouble before we had been 
in Paris two hours. On arriving at the hotel, and after having made our 
toilets, I asked Leigh Lynch where we could purchase some good cigars. 
"The best place that I know of," replied Leigh, "is at the Grand Hotel ; 
come with me." We did so, and upon arriving at the store (which is, 
as are all the cigar stores in France, under the control of the Govern- 
ment), 1 stated the priced goods I wished, and the polite Frenchman, 
selecting an unbroken box, opened it and held it toward me. I 
requested Ward to help himself, and then took one myself, and handed 
the attendant a two-franc piece, the cigars being worth one franc each. 
He shrugged his shoulders, returned the money to me, laughed, and 
began to wrap up the box. I laid the money on the counter and fol- 
lowed Ward toward the door. This action brought the Frenchman 
after us, and he explained, in very indifferent English, that I must take 
the whole box. The demand was so ridiculous that I laughed ; but he 
was very much in earnest, so I promptly put the cigar back into the box 
and picked up my money. Upon this, the Frenchman followed me to 
the sidewalk, and noticing Ward waiting for me, with the newly-pur- 
chased cigar between his lips, he walked up to the New Yorker, with true 
French impulsiveness, and took the weed from between Ward's teeth. 
Ward was too astonished to speak, but not too much so to act. He 
grasped the fellow's wrist with a clutch that must have gi\'en him an 



A FRENCHMAN SUBDUED. 



2-5 



excellent idea of the muscular development of American ball players, 
and, while holding his hand in a vise-like grip, deliberately replaced the 
cigar between his lips, and then told Monsieur in French that if he 
attempted a trick of that kind again, he would find himself in the gutter. 
The man threatened to call the gendarme, and looked up and down 
the street in search of one. Ward told him that nothing would please 
him better, and the fellow, seeing that his bluff game would not go, 
finally consented to take payment for the cigars. 




THF. EIFFEL TOWER AS THE TOURISTS SAW IT. 



That afternoon and evening we began our tour through the streets 
of the city, certainly the most beautiful of all the great cities of the 
world. Its magnificent thoroughfares, its great institutions and beautiful 
boulevards, its broad public parks, its picturesque environs, with their 
historical palaces, its public squares, its monuments, its life, its gayety, 
15 



226 



SHROVE TUESDAY IX PARIS. 



combine to make Paris wonderfully attractive both to the Parisian and 
to the visitor within her gates, particularly if he be an American. 

Our part)' arrived in Paris on Saturday. The following Tuesday was 
Shrove Tuesday, the closing day of the carnival festivities in Paris, and 
durine that eveningf and the earlv hours of the followingf morninor 
none of us had time or inclination for anvthingr more serious than the 
Bal Masque or the glitter of the big cafes on the boulevards. Our 
only fear was that we should miss some part of it. We arose at a late 

hour on Tuesday morning, having lin- 
gered long in the cafes and the variety 
salons on the boulevards the night before, 
so that soon after we had breakfasted the 
fun in the streets, in commemoration of 
the closing hours of the carnival season, 
began. Masquers seemed to come from 
within ever)' doorway, carriages dashed 
hither and thither with gloriously cos- 
tumed occupants, horns were tooted, bells 
rung, and people jostled each other and 
screamed with laughter upon the slightest 
provocation. Paris seemed to have gone 
craz)-. The crowd upon the streets re- 
sulted in a crush, and I remember that 
[Mark Baldwin, Monsieur St. Claire, of 
the Revile des Sportes — who, by the way, 
was extremely attentive and kind to our 
part)' during its stay in Paris — passed 
down the Rue de la Pabc to the Rue 
Rivoli, where we had a peep at the 
Louvre, and spent an hour in the book and photograph booths with 
which this thoroughfare is lined. Well-executed copies of the famous 
paintings in the French galleries can be purchased in these stalls for 
from ten to twent)' francs apiece, and we purchased to the limit of our 
pocketbooks. Then back up town we strolled via the Avenue de 
rOpera, which was so uncomfortably filled with crowds of shouting, 
prank-playing maskers, that it was with difficult)' we got through them 




Commcmorauvc of ihe Revoiudon of Juir 14m 
1789. 



AT THE STUDENTS' BALL. 227 

and tul-ned into the Rue Caumartin, back to our hotel. After dinner Ed 
Crane, John Ward, Ed Hanlon, Mac and myself deliberately laid out a 
programme of wickedness, and started out to see Paris on carnival 
night systematically. First, we drove to the Comedie Fran^ais — the 
home of the drama in France — whose walls have witnessed the debuts 
and subsequent triumphs of such lights as Coquelin and Bernhardt. 
We there spent an hour with French Comedy as it can be put on at 
this famous theatre only, and Ward was so pleased with it that we were 
compelled to leave him. The remaining quartet drove to the Jardin 
Bullier, where the students' ball was in progress. 

What a crush, what wild hilarity, what exaggerated costumes, and 
what shockingly short skirts ! There must have been five thousand 
dancers on the floor of that big pavilion at one time, all whirling and 
kicking amid the glare and heat of two thousand gas jets ; yet, despite 
the crush, all was good nature. Lines of black-tighted students, clasp- 
ing hands, would go through the crowds of dancers on the run, knock- 
ing them in every direction, yet no one lost his temper — that is, no one 
" kicked," in the sense that the average American baseball enthusiast 
would use the word. There was a " kick," however — a literal kick — and 
Ned Hanlon will bear me out in the statement. A leg encased in red 
silk, and belonging to a tall, well-shaped girl, shot upward just behind 
Hanlon, and Ed's silk hat climbed up among the chandeliers. The girl 
laughed, the crowd clapped its hands and rushed after Ed's hat, which 
they finally secured, and returned to him uninjured, but the American 
had had enough. " Come on," he said in a disgusted tone, " let's get 
out of here ; " and we " got," for the students' ball of Paris is very 
much upon the rough-and-tumble order, aside from all else that can be 
said of it. 

It was midnight when we reached the Eden Theatre, just off the Rue 
Caumartin. Here the great masked ball of the evening was shortly to 
commence, and as we entered, some of the prettiest women we had 
seen in Paris stood about the foyer, while French gallants in evening 
dress awaited the reappearance of their ladies from the dressing-rooms. 
The ball at the Eden was as select and recherche as the Bullier ball had 
been wild and reckless. The interior of the Eden is impressive. The 
style of the decorations and architecture is Egyptian. The parquet had 



2 28 A BRILL/ANT SPECTACLE. 

been boarded over on a level widi the stasfe floor, and a music stand, 
filled with a hundred musicians, stood under the proscenium arch, room 
being left for a passage way on each side, while a grand staircase, at 
a point just opposite the stage, led up to the promenades, cafes and 
restaurants back of the dress circle. The interior in itself was beautiful, 
but with the crowds of gorgeously-dressed women and their escorts it 
became dazzling. Our party took seats in the dress circle — front row, 
of course — to witness the opening, which occurred a few minutes after 
twelve o'clock. We had not been seated long before there was a crash 
of music from the orchestra, two big doors upon the stage flew open, 
and a hundred girls, in every conceivable costume calculated to show 
their figures to best advantage, filed out in a long procession, each girl 
bearing aloft a colored glow ball at the end of her gallant's cane. 
These constituted the regular ballet corps of the establishment. Most 
of them were pretty, and all were graceful, and the scene, as they fol- 
lowed their leader on a run across the parquet, up the broad staircase, 
through the crowds in the cafes and on the promenades, and then down 
to the dancing-floor again, was a brilliant one. 

The programme had thus been opened, and the dancing now com- 
menced in earnest. A dozen quadrille sets were in motion, and all 
around the borders of the dancing-floor sets of four, two couples, were 
•dancing the Cancan. They evinced as great a spirit of rivalry in their 
■dancing and were as jealous of each other's attainments as were ever 
two premieres of the ballet, and the impulsive, excitable crowds in the 
room would be drawn from one quartet to another as the applause 
arose in different sections of the hall over some specially difficult and 
graceful pirouette of one or more of the dancers. Within half an hour 
after the dancing commenced, I saw fully half of the American party on 
the floor, not dancing, but eager spectators of all that was going on. 
Thanks to the courtesy of our Parisian newspaper friends, we were not 
lonor strang-ers amonof the assemblage, and as I olanced around I caught 
sight of Ed Crane, Ed Hanlon, Fogarty, Wood, Tom Brown and the 
"Professor" bending over the fair heads and the dark eyes of the 
Parisian beauties who filled the room, and who spoke, according to their 
own acknowledgment, "Joost a leetle Inglese " — in fact, just enough 
English to make them all the more interesting. It was tliree o'clock 



REVELING UNTIL DAYLIGHT. 



229 



when the ball at the Eden had ended, and the remainder of the dancers 
followed those who had preceded them to the cafes on the Boulevard 
des Italians and the Rue Montmartre, which, when we reached them 
about the hour mentioned, were a blaze of electric light, brilliant cos- 
tumes and vivacious women. Revelry, bon mots, and a good time 
generally seemed to be the existing order of things everywhere, until 




ARC DE TRIOMPHE. 
Commemorative of the Victories of Napoleon I. 



approaching daylight frightened the revelers into their carriages and 
sent them to their apartments. One part of Paris was awaking while 
another was just retiring, and our party, which belonged most unmis- 
takably to the latter class, wended its way to our rooms in the Rue 
Caumartin. 

Ned Williamson and myself saw much of Paris in each other's com- 



230 SEEING THE CITY. 

pany, and I found the big short-stop an excellent companion. He is 
well read, and nothing worthy of notice escaped his eye. Indeed, it is 
my impression that had Williamson chosen the journalistic profession 
instead of devoting the best years of his life to ball-playing, he would 
to-day be as prominent in one as he is in the other. His descriptive 
letters of the scenes and incidents of our tour to one or two American 
newspapers for which he corresponded were among the most interesting 
sent from our party. Mounted upon the big Parisian busses, which, by 
the way, is really the best method of seeing Paris, Ned and myself rode 
from the Grand Opera House to the Bastile, and from the Grand Opera 
House again, past the Madeleine and the Place de la Concorde to the 
Champs Elysees, at which we left our conveyance and walked down to 
the bridge w^hich spans the Seine, at a point near the Exposition Build- 
ings. Then we took another buss and rode to the Arc de Triomphe, 
which we ascended, and from which we secured a view of the French 
capital that is not equaled by any other save from the Eiffel Tower. 
From the Arc we drove to the Trocadero Palace, and from its balconies 
looked out over the terraced gardens and the Seine upon the incom- 
pleted buildings of the Exposition. 

The others of our party were soon following our example, and, 
although we remained in Paris but a week, it is safe to say that we saw 
much more of the city than many Americans who have tarried there for 
a much longer period. To tell of all the incidents, or half of them, that 
made up our experiences in Paris, would require a substantial volume 
in itself, and I am not sure but it Avould make exceedingly interesting 
reading. Those who have visited Paris can doubtless imagine how 
much there would be for twent^'-five able-bodied, fun-loving, much- 
traveled young Americans to see and to do, and we were seeing and 
doing through every available hour of our time. 

The morning before our game. President Spalding and Manager 
Lynch, in a personal call, extended to President Carnot an invitation to 
attend our exhibition, and the next morning received in reply the follow- 
ing letter from Gen. Brugere, -which, translated, reads thus : — 

" Presidexce de la Republic, Paris, March 7th. 
Sir : — I have the honor to inform you that the President of the Repubhc is warmly appre- 
ciative of the invitation extended to him to attend the baseball match at the Pare Aristotique. 



A LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT. 231 

He, however, regrets that because of his numerous occupations he will be unable to be 
present, as he attaches much interest to the development of physical exercise in the education 
of our youths. 

He will, however, be represented by the officers of his military staff. 
Accept, sir, every assurance of my distinguished consideration. 

General Brugere, 
General of the Brigade, Secretary- General to the President. 
To Mr. Leigh S. Lynch, 

Hotel St. Peter sbourg. Rue Caumartin." 

Our game in Paris, which took place on the afternoon of March 8th, 
was one of the memorable events of the trip. The bright sunshine, 
the picturesque surroundings, the pretty faces, that grew prettier with 
excitement and interest as the game progressed, the presence of the 
large number of Americans familiar with baseball, the assemblage of 
distinguished spectators and the spirited playing of the teams, all com- 
bined to make it so. The park is located on the banks of the River 
Seine just opposite the Exposition Buildings and within the shadow of 
the great Eiffel Tower. Walled gardens and big city residences stood 
high above the field, which, though small, was still large enough for some 
great sport and a good exhibition. The little grand stand, especially 
erected, had been profusely decorated with American and French flags 
and furnished with plush chairs for the members of the President's 
staff, the American Legation, and other distinguished spectators, while 
chairs on each side of the stand accommodated all who did not wish to 
remain standing. 

Among those present were General Brugere and Captain Chamin, 
representing the President ; Mr. and Mrs. William Joy, of the American 
Legation ; Miss McLane, daughter of the American Minister to Paris ; 
Miss Urquhart, a sister of Mrs. James Brown Potter ; Consul-General 
Rathbone ; M. G. de St. Claire, of the Revue des Sportes ; Nate Sauls- 
bury, and others of prominence in official, social and theatrical circles. 
In this game Ed Williamson was injured. He had taken his base on 
balls, in the second innings, and in attempting to steal second base he 
fell over a sharp stone, the playing surface being of sand and fine 
gravel, and tore his knee cap painfully. His little wife, who was among 
the spectators, hurried to his assistance, and together they left the 
grounds for the hotel, Baldwin going to first and Ryan covering Wil- 



232 LEAVING PARIS. 

liamson's place at short. No one anticipated that the big fellow's injury 
would necessitate more than a few days of rest ; but it kept him con- 
fined to his room in London for many long weeks, and prevented his 
entering upon his duties with the Chicago Club during the greater 
part of the championship season of 1889. Seven innings only were 
played in Paris, as it was necessary for the teams to depart that night 
for London. With the exception of Daly's single in the seventh, Chi- 
cago failed to do any hitting, save in the sixth inning, when a home run 
by Ryan and a two-bagger by Pettitt, together with a passed ball, netted 
them two runs, the only ones scored by Chicago during the game. 
Crane pitched a magnificent game for All-America, and his support was 
faultless. While the play aroused enthusiasm among the Americans 
present, it was "Greek" to the Parisians. All, however, admired the 
long hits by Ryan, Carrol, Pettitt, Wood and Crane, and applauded the 
base runnincr and the brilliant fielding. 



ON THE ENGLISH CHANNEL. 

We left Paris at half-past eight o'clock of the same evening for our 
never-to-be-forgotten and eventful trip across the English Channel. 
We took the long route from Dieppe to New Haven, and it is safe to 
say that a thousand dollars would not induce any of us to go through 
our experience of that night again. Indeed, we were fortunate in 
reaching the shore at all. The Captain remarked, the following morn- 
ing, that during the thirty-five years in which he had sailed those waters 
he had never encountered such weather and such a sea as we had 
passed through. Twice during the voyage he was tempted to turn 
around and go back to Dieppe, under the belief that it would be impos- 
sible for us to reach New Haven in the teeth of such a gale. We 
might very well have stopped over in Paris till Saturday, or Sunday 
noon, when we would have escaped the nearly all-night ride on the cars 
and our unpleasant experience on the Channel. We had expected, 
however, to play our initial game in England, at Bristol, the following 
day, and nothing but a heavy storm and the overflow of the grounds 
there prevented the carrying out of the programme. Even had the 
grounds been in condition, however, none of our party would have 



IN A GALE. 233 

been in shape to play ball, for all of them sought their beds at once 
upon our arrival at the First Avenue Hotel, in London. 

We arrived at Dieppe shortly before one o'clock in the morning, and 
bravely walked down the dock, in the face of the stiff gale, to the little 
side-wheeled steamer "Normande," where we made ourselves as com- 
fortable as circumstances would permit in the somewhat cramped cabin. 
Very soon after, we started upon our voyage, and as the ship began to 
roll, probably five minutes after having left the dock, the steward, a big^ 
ruddy-faced Englishman, came in with an armful of little tin wash basins, 
one of which he deposited in the vicinity of each bunk. We asked his 
stewardship if stationary washstands were unknown institutions in 
England, and were smilingly informed that washstands and the little 
bowls which were being deposited about the cabin were intended for 
entirely different purposes. He advised us, however, not to lose sight 
of the bowls, as we might need them. And we did. Verily, it was a night 
to remember! Twenty minutes after leaving the dock, the "Normande" 
was in the gale, and she tossed about much as an air-tight barrel upon 
the waves might have done. Ton after ton of water poured over her 
decks as the big waves engulfed us, and we in the cabin below could 
hear the water rushing over us as we have heard a cataract breaking 
over its bed in the mountains. Tom Daly, myself and several others 
were thrown from our bunks by the severe shocks, but all were so sick 
that we failed to realize the danger we were in, or, if we realized it, 
were wholly indifferent thereto. Goodfriend and Leigh Lynch went on 
deck for a breath of fresh air, soon after leaving the dock, and neither 
of them could get back to the cabin. With the assistance, however, of 
a couple of strong sailors they reached a rope bin, near the wheel house, 
and sat there until daylight, with the big seas breaking about them and 
sweeping the deck between them and the cabin hatch. About three 
o'clock in the morning we were all startled by a shock, as though the 
vessel were really going to pieces at last ; the shock being accompanied 
by a crash of timbers and the shouting of men, dimly heard above the 
roaring gale. We learned the next morning that one end of the bridge 
had been carried away, but that the lookouts had managed to hold on. 
Despite the danger of our position, however, the experience was not 
without its laughable experiences. Mrs. Lynch insisted that she was 



234 



ON TO LONDON. 



dying, and begged for her husband ; but Leigh, poor fellow, was being 
tossed about inside the rope bin, on deck, and could not have reached 
the cabin for his life's sake. 

"I guess you won't die, Madam," said the stewardess, and madam 
did not die, but both she and Mrs. Anson looked not far from dead six 
hours later, when we arrived at New Haven. Poor John Healy lay upon 
his face, calling upon all the saints to save him froma water}' grave, while 
John Ward and John Tener went staggering about the cabin in a dazed 
state, bearinof with them the most wretched countenances I have ever 
beheld. Even Clarence Duval was sick, but not more so than the poor 
little Japanese monkey, which sat upon Ed Crane's breast, with its 
funnylittle head hanging over its shoulder as though indifferent whether 
it lived or died. Ed himself lay flat upon his back, figuratively " dead to 
the world." 

IN OLD ENGLAND. 

But the sun was shining brightly in the little seaport town of New 
Haven, on the English coast, when we dropped anchor there next 
morning at 7 o'clock. The air was clear and spring-like, and not a trace 
remained to recall the perilous voyage of the night, save the wretched 
appearance of our party — colorless, worn out, and feeling no interest 
in anything but the prospect of a bed and a much-needed rest. Clar- 
ence Duval turned around after having ascended the dock, and with a 
glance out across the waters of the channel, shook his fist at it and 
then at the steamer, as he said : " Hi, you Missy English Channel, you 
tink youself mity smaht, don't ye ? and yo' is smaht, but you dun did 
Avell to have a extry good time wid us while you had de chance, 'cause 
yo' doan neveh get dis boy out dar agen. If eber I git back to Ameriky, 
I'se gwine to stay dar — yo' heah me?" 

It seemed good to hear English spoken again by others than our own 
party, and we submitted with good grace to the Customs examination, 
Avhich was hastily made. We then took the train for London town, 
reaching Victoria station about half-past nine o'clock, where we were 
met by Mr. Spalding and Mr. C. W. Alcock, of the London Cricket 2Si6. 
Secretary of the Surrey County Cricket Club. Mr. Spalding smiled as he 
saw the pale faces that came out of the railway carriages, and was 
compelled to turn away with momentary laughter as we came up the 



ABOUT THE METROPOLIS. 



^05 



platform, poor Ed Williamson bringing up the rear on crutches — as 
sorry a looking procession of representative athletes probably as any 
that ever landed in England. As soon as he had learned of our expe- 
rience and Ed's injury, however, he did everything that could be done 
for our comfort. Drags in waiting rolled us rapidly through the streets 
of the city to Holborn, where we were soon quartered in comfortable 
rooms in the handsomely appointed First Avenue Hotel. Mr. Spalding 
had gone to the expense 
of having all our baggage 
shipped to London from 
Liverpool, whither it had 
gone on the North German 
Lloyd steamer from Port 
Said, so that after a fore- 
noon nap, a raid on the 
wardrobe and a luncheon, 
most of the boys began to 
look themselves again by 
nightfall. 

The spirit of sight-seeing 
which had clung to us ever 
since we had left California 
reasserted itself before we 
had been many hours in 
London, and the two days 
following our arrival were 
put in by most of us in ob- 
taining, so far as possible, a 
general idea of the great 
city. All visitors, so far as 
I have been able to learn, are, no matter from what quarter of the 
globe they come, immediately imjDressed with the vastness and the 
greatness of London. The famous Strand, one of the busiest of the 
many busy streets in the metropolis, is but a few minutes' walk from 
our hotel, and as one strolls along it in the direction of Trafalgar Square, 
the Victoria Hotel, the Hotel Metropole and the Parliament buildings, 









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MR. C. W. ALCOCK. 



236 BARGAIN-HUNTING. 

an excellent idea of London street life can be obtained. The absence 
of street railway cars and the presence of the big double-decked busses, 
as well as of myriads of Hansom cabs, at once strike the American. 
Everywhere is London crowded, and no matter in what quarter one may 
find himself, London, to the stranger, is greater, gi'ander, more interest- 
ing and more impressive than all other cities of the world combined. 
I shall not attempt to write descriptively of the world's metropolis. One 
might spend a lifetime there, and then not have seen all that would be 
well worth writing of Unfortunately, we reached the city at a most 
unfavorable season of the year. It was foggy, cold, damp, penetrating, 
and all of us suffered more or less severely with colds, which we seemed 
unable to shake off We were very pleasantly situated, however, in the 
First Avenue Hotel, with its luxuriously furnished smoking-rooms, 
reading- and lounging-rooms, its excellent table and comfortable apart- 
ments. 

True to their Yankee training, the boys began bargain-hunting before 
we had been many days in London. Clothes, hats, canes, umbrellas, 
underwear, linen, and, in fact, every article necessary for a gentleman's 
wardrobe can be purchased in London cheaper than in any other city 
on the globe, and the boys consequendy spent money liberally. Many 
of them, however, have since acknowledged that while textures may be 
. cheap enough in London, the London tailor is a miserable failure, so 
far as his ability to fit an American with a suit of clothes is concerned. 
Not only is he unable to fit an American, but also an Englishman, and 
it is a noticeable fact, or was to me, that in London, Englishmen seem to 
be utterly indifferent to the matter of fit. They seem perfecdy willing 
to wear their clothes as though they had been thrown at them, and 
while brand new and made from the finest cloths, most of the suits that 
I saw there would have been prompdy sent back to his tailor by the 
average American. 

Arrangements had been made for a recepdon and a luncheon to our 
party in the Club House of the Surrey County Cricket Club, at Ken- 
nington Oval, to take place on the day of our opening game in England. 
The Committee appointed to receive the teams on this occasion em- 
braced the Duke of Buccleugh, Duke of Beaufort, Earl of Lands- 
borough, Earl of Coventry', Earl of Sheffield, Earl of Chesborough, 



TOASTING DIGNITARIES. 237 

Lord Oxenbridge, Lord Littleton, Lord Hawke, Sir Reginald Hanson, 
Bart., Sir W. C. Webster, Attorney-General, the Lord Mayor, Ameri- 
can Consul-General, American Charge d' Affaires, and Dr. W. G. Grace. 
Tuesday, the day of our opening game, was most disagreeable and 
thoroughly unsuited for an exhibition of baseball. It was raining when 
the boys arose from breakfast, and although the down-pour ceased 
about noon, a typical London fog took its place, a fog which gave the 
towers and spires of the city a spectral and shadowy look, while but for 
the noise of rumbling wheels one could almost imagine himself in a 
■community of ghosts, so dim, misty, and shadowy did everything ani- 
mate and inanimate appear. Indeed, it was questionable whether the 
day's programme could be carried out, but the fog lifted a little by 
noon, and It was decided to play the game if possible. The teams 
accordingly entered the drags in front of the hotel at 12.30, and were 
■driven to Kennington Oval, where, in the Club House of the Surrey 
County Cricket Club, a generous collation had been prepared and the 
boys were presented by Secretary Alcock to many. If not all, of the 
gentlemen named as members of the reception committee, and many 
prominent members of the Club. Lord Oxenbridge acted as Chair- 
man of the assemblage, and after some of the good things on the board 
liad been disposed of, he proposed the toasts of "The Queen " and 
" The President of the United States," both of which were enthusiasti- 
cally acknowledged. Lord Lewisham then proposed the toast of " The 
American Ball Teams," President Spalding replying to the toast in his 
characteristically happy vein. Hon. Henry White, United States Charge 
d' Affaires, then brought the more formal part of the proceedings to a 
close, by proposing the health of the Chairman which was drunk with 
•cheers. The boys then descended through the crowds that filled the 
Club House corridors and reception-rooms to the dressing quarters. 
Meanwhile, spectators kept pouring in at the gates until the immense 
■oval, which is one of the most popular cricket ovals of London, and 
which is the personal property of the Prince of Wales, was completely 
surrounded by a living hedge from twenty to twenty-five feet deep, 
while the Club House windows and balconies were crowded to their 
•utmost limit. 

But what a day for baseball ! The ground was soft, black and sticky 



238 



THE PRINCE OE WALES. 



wherever a spike cut through the green turf, and the big reservoirs of 
the gas company's works, which stood just outside of the walks, looked 
like spectral balloons in the gray fog, which was so dense that a ball 
knocked outside the infield could scarcely be seen. The crowd was 
there, however, with any number of prominent cricketers and repre- 
sentatives of the noble houses of England, and the Prince of Wales 
himself was expected ; so that it was determined to proceed with the 
game. There was a moment of silence when the boys filed upon the 
field after having been photographed at the Club House steps, and then 
applause was tendered from all parts of the ground as the fine propor- 
tions of the men were noted. To play good ball under such conditions 
is difficult, almost impracticable, as almost every lover of the game in 
America will understand, and yet the exhibition at Kennington Oval 
throuo^hout the nine inningrs was an excellent one under the circum- 
stances. Healy and Baldwin pitched for their respective teams, and 
although the batting by neither side was heavy, many of the hits were 
clean and well placed, while the base-running was spirited and the field- 
ing really remarkable, when it is considered that the ball could scarcely 
be seen fifty feet above the ground. At the end of the first half of the 
third inning" a commotion was noticeable about the Club House, and a 
moment later the well-known face of the Prince of Wales appeared at 
one of the windows just behind the catcher's box. The boys simulta- 
neously turned, walked to the home plate, and gave three cheers and a 
tiger for His Highness, while the crowd afterward cheered their appro- 
bation of the Americans' action. 

At the close of the fifth inning, the teams, accompanied by Manager 
Lynch and the Press representatives, left the field at the Prince's request 
and ascended to the room where His Highness was seated. He arose 
and stood near the table in the centre of the reception room, and as 
President Spalding introduced the party, shook each one cordially by 
the hand. There was nothing affected, either in the manner or the 
attitude of the prospective King of England. He took the mud-stained 
hands of the players in his own faultlessly-gloved fingers and gave 
each a good strong, hearty grip and shake. Then he turned and chatted 
pleasantly with the boys for several minutes, calling Brown, Anson, 
Ward and others by name, as though he had been familiar with the 



THE PRINCE'S OPINION. 



239 



game and its players a lifetime. He bowed pleasantly to each of us as 
we left, and then took his seat at the window to witness the remainder 
of the game. The crowd, understanding the nature of our visit to 
the reception room, applauded as the boys reappeared and commenced 
the sixth inning, while the Prince at the window asked quesdon after 
question as the plays on the diamond were made, and listened atten- 
tively as President Spalding explained them. 

Soon after the intermission, a representative of the London New York 
Herald asked His Highness what he thought of the game. "Here," 
said the Prince, "give me a card, and I will write my opinion," and he 
penciled the following : — 






Of course, this was very graceful and very clever, and just what 
His Highness should have done. He could scarcely have expressed an 
opinion favorable to baseball, as against cricket, even though he had 
desired to do so, and the best compliment he could pay the American 
game was to compare it with the game which England considers so 
vastly superior to every other field sport. I understood afterward that 
the Prince, during the morning, had been quite indisposed, and had 
been advised by members of his household to send his regrets instead 



240 ENGLISH CRITICISMS. 

of attending our game. He generously determined, since he had 
accepted the invitation, to make his appearance, however, and became 
so interested in the play that he remained a full hour at the club-house 
window. He was accompanied by Colonel Elliott and Prince Christian. 
As to the game, it was closely watched throughout, though, I imagine, 
more in the spirit of criticism than of admiration. The fielding, par- 
ticularly catches of long outfield flies, the base-running and sliding and 
the batting seemed to be about the only points understood or appre- 
ciated, and these were greatly applauded. The London New York 
Herald, that afternoon, circulated among spectators hundreds of blanks, 
with the request that they pencil their honest impression of the game; 
and these, being published the following day, covered almost a page 
and a half of that enterprising paper. Many of the criticisms were 
severe. Some thought the game "child's play," others "could not 
see any sense in it," others thought it "too complicated in its rules to 
€ver become widely known or popular," and all thought cricket so 
vastly superior in every way that there would be no room for American 
" diamonds " on English soil. Many, however, applauded the fine exhibi- 
tion of fielding and frankly acknowledged that English cricketers might 
be benefited by emulating their i\merican cousins in this respect. On 
the whole, the criticisms were by no means encouraging to our baseball 
missionaries, but I am pleased to say that before we left England there 
were many among the fifty odd thousand people who attended our games 
whose opinions changed materially, and the result of the visit to Eng- 
land of the American College boys, three months after the return of 
the Spalding part)' to America, has been exceedingly gratifying. The 
collegians played ball upon the London cricket grounds, interesting in 
the game many of London's best-known cricketers. 

One of the pleasantest events of the trip, thus far, was the delightful 
httle supper tendered the party the evening preceding this game by 
Miss Grace Hawthorne, Mr. Wilson Barrett, and Mr. W. W. Kelly, Miss 
Hawthorne's manager, at the Princess Theatre, in Oxford street. The 
teams, by invitation, attended the performance of Mr. Barrett and Miss 
Eastlake in "Good Old Times," occupying four of the proscenium 
boxes. After the performance, a collation was spread in one of the 
ante-rooms of the theatre, and with Mr. Barrett as Chairman of the pro- 



SIGHT-SEEING AGAIN. 241 

ceedings, we spent one of the most memorable evenings of our stay in 
England. There were musical selections and recitations from a number 
of clever people, a recitation from Mr. Barrett, as well as a hearty 
address of welcome and wishes for our success in England, and a 
charming little speech from Miss Hawthorne herself, which brought 
down upon her golden head as big a burst of applause as she had ever 
received from the same number of people during all her professional 
life. The genial Kelly, too, came in for his share, and, as he afterward 
put it, was "too thoroughly broken up over it all to say much of 
anything." 

The following morning the party, accompanied by Mr. Henry White, 
United States Charge d' Affaires, drove to the Parliament Buildings, and 
were admitted to and shown through the historical structures by the 
Secretary to the Chairman of the House of Commons, at that time 
in session, an honor rarely conferred upon visitors. We entered the 
o;reat hall wherein Warren Hasting-s and Charles the First were tried, ' 

o o ^1 

and which had been so badly shattered by the explosion of a dynamite 
bomb two years before. We visited the Crypt and the Committee! 
Rooms, and were shown the magnificent corridors, their walls deco- 
rated with great paintings, executed at a cost of from four to five' 
thousand pounds sterling each. We were next taken through the^ 
House of Lords, with its imposing and beautiful interior, and stood 
before the Woolsack and Queen's Seat, while the seats of the various 
members were pointed out to us by the Secretary. From the House: 
of Lords we entered the House of Commons, where Sir William Har- 
court was speaking upon "The Treatment of Political Prisoners in 
Ireland." Mr. Balfour occupied a seat which gave us an excellent view 
of his ambitious and intellectual, yet to me somewhat cold and cruel,, 
face. It was expected that Mr. Gladstone would enter shortly, but we 
could not wait for even a glance at " the grand old man," and, after 
listening to Sir William Harcourt for a i&\'^ minutes, we descended to 
the corridors, and, still accompanied by Mr. White, crossed over to 
Westminster Abbey, where we had only time to glance at its beautiful 
interior before mounting our drags for a drive to the grounds. 

There is no question in the world that in England they can give 
America points on Athletic grounds. They certainly do have beautiful 
16 



24^ 



A BEAUTIFUL GAME. 



lawns for Cricket, and I thought, as I looked over the velvety turf at 
"Lords" that afternoon, of the time when, as I fondly hope, we may 
see at least one end of the unbroken stretch of green sward marked b\- 
the runways of a baseball diamond. "Lords " is a grand stretch of turf 
and the manner in which the people poured through the gates that 
afternoon was a gratifying surprise to our party. There were fully 
seven thousand people present when play began ; and what a game 
the boys played ! It was " away up in G " from the start. All-America 
took the lead by capturing three runs in the second inning, and held 
it until Chicago, by scoring four in the eighth, as the result of timely 
hitting, good base-running and costly errors, forged to the front. Then 




THE CLUB HOUSE. 



Ward's men, by desperate base-running, which evoked burst after burst 
of enthusiastic applause and laughter, jumped in, and, together with the 
battery errors of Anson and Baldwin, won the game by one run. It 
Avas just such a game as pleased the Englishmen better than anything 
we could have given them, the batting being brilliant, and the base- 
running of a character that would have called for hearty applause even 
from our best-posted American assemblages. A better understanding 
of the game was plainly shown by the spectators, the Duke of Buccleuch, 
in particular, being among the first to applaud every clever bit of 
fieldino- and base-running as he viewed the play, together with a party 



I 



ON CRYSTAL PALACE GROUNDS. 



243 



of friends, from the Club House. That evening our party accepted 
the invitation of Henry Irving and Miss Terry to occupy boxes at the 
Lyceum, and we were present in full force. We were invited behind 
the scenes between acts to enjoy a glass of wine and receive the well- 
wishes of our host and hostess ; after which we returned, some to our 
seats and others to the hotel. 

The following day, March 14th, was the date of our game upon the 
Crystal Palace Grounds. These grounds, with the great palace of 
crystal standing in their midst, form one of the sights of London. 
They are located at Sydenham, some ten miles or more from Snow 
Hill Station — Sydenham being one of the popular residence districts 
about the metropolis. Our third game in London took place here, upon 
the grounds of the Crystal Palace Cricket Club, a beautiful stretch of 
lawn surrounded by stately old trees and quaint-looking English resi- 
dences, which stand beyond the boundaries of the paA. All-America 
under the captaincy of Ned Hanlon — Ward having sailed for New 
York upon personal matters that morning — administered another defeat 
to Anson's forces, in one of the prettiest games played since leaving 
Australia. Another big and enthusiastic crowd of over five thousand 
people were present. The day was fairly favorable for baseball, cool 
and cloudy, but still dry and fogless, and we had begun to regard even 
such weather as this in England as wonderfully favorable. The boys 
dressed in the cosy club house on the grounds, and at three o'clock 
began the game. More enthusiasm was manifested at this contest than 
at any other we had yet played in England. Englishmen actually 
pushed and jostled each other in their excitement, many of them calling 
out to the base runners, " Run, run, man, or you won't make it." In 
the eighth inning, when All-America scored by hard batting, the enthu- 
siasm was such as to remind us of home. Crane cracked out a pretty 
double, which was finely fielded by Tener in far centre, and started 
to run. 

" He won't get second," exclaimed one Englishman near my 
shoulder. 

" Yes he will, yes he will," shouted another man ; " see, he's got it — 
by Jove, he's got it." 

" Yes, and he's going for third," yelled the other, waving his umbrella 



244 



AT BRISTOL. 



with excitement. " Oh ! ah ! look out, look out there, my hearty — 
you're caught." 

Then he joined in the burst of applause that rewarded Tener's quick 
work and fine throw from the outfield. Hanlon followed with a base 
hit, and stole second with a slide that awakened the crowd into another 
burst of applause ; but it was nothing to that which went up when Tom 

Brown picked out one of 
Baldwin's slow balls and 
sent it out of sight amongf 
the tree tops. Brown is a 
magnificent base runner, 
and he ne\"er showed up 
before or since that hit, to 
my knowledge, in prettier 
style. He was at the plate 
almost as soon as Hanlon, 
and Ned was not slow him- 
self in base-running. Such 
interest and such applause 
was, indeed, encouraging 
to our boys, and no doubt 
spurred Hanlon's forces on 
to the capture of another 
run in the ninth inning, 
which CTave them the rame 
by a score of five to three. 



1 

i 


'•' * «sM 










/ 

1 ( 




t 


"1 


'H 


/ 




1 





DR. W. G. GRACE, ENGLAND S GRE.A.TEST CRICKETER. 



AT BRISTOL. 

The following morning, 
at seven o'clock, we left London for Bristol, the home of Dr. W. G. 
and Mr. E. M. Grace, the most famous cricketers in England. As 
before stated, it had originally been our plan to play our first game 
in England upon these grounds, but a storm had rendered them unfit 
for use. We enjoyed a delightful ride from the metropolis in a big 
saloon car, especially provided for us, and upon our arrival in Bristol, 
at noon, were met at the depot by a cornmittee composed of His 




HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, THE PRINCE OF WALES. 



AN OLD SPORTING PATRON. 247 

Grace the Duke of Beaufort, Dr. W. G. Grace and officials of tlie 
Gloucester County Cricket Club. We were driven at once to the 
Grand Hotel, where, in the parlors, we were presented individually to 
Dr. Grace and to the Duke. The Duke is certainly one of the finest 
examples of an old English gentleman I ever met ; hale and hearty, yet 
close on to sixty, he still remains a great lover of field sports of every 
character. His estate at Badminten, seventeen miles from Bristol, is 
one of the finest in England, and here he breeds some of the greatest 
strains of racers extant. He shook each of us cordially by the hand, 
and then the entire party adjourned to the Windsor Room, where a 
generously covered table had been set for us. The Duke acted as 
Chairman, and, after the repast, the usual toasts, "The Queen," "The 
President," and "The American Baseball Teams," were proposed and 
drunk. President Spalding excited no end of laughter among our hosts 
and the invited cricketers present by his humorous recital of some of 
our adventures abroad. That little dinner and our reception at Bristol 
will certainly be long and pleasantly remembered by all who shared 
therein. With three cheers and a tiofer for His Grace and our friends 
in Bristol, the boys left the banquet room and mounted the drags, which 
were surrounded by crowds of people as they stood in front of the 
hotel. President Spalding and the Duke of Beaufort drove out in the 
latter's magnificent private coach. The Gloucester Cricket Grounds 
are new, having been purchased and equipped but a short time before 
our arrival, at a cost of twelve thousand pounds sterling. Solid-looking 
gray walls of stone surround as pretty a stretch of turf as there is in 
England, and notwithstanding Bristol has but three hundred thousand 
people against London's four and a half millions, the latter city has no 
prettier cricket park than that in Bristol. 

The day was the brightest we had yet experienced in England, and 
the grounds in excellent condition for play, yet, strange to say, the game 
did not show, in a single inning, a tithe of the snap shown in our London 
game. The boys tried their best to throw some life into it, but for some 
reason it progressed just as I have seen championship games at home 
— dead, up to the very last inning. Of course, there was batting and 
fielding. There was even a pretty double play by Ryan and Baldwin, 
and there was base-running and base-sliding, plenty of it, yet all of it 



248 



A FAREWELL GAME. 



seemed listless and draggy. However, the applause was liberal, and 
if the Bristolites enjo)'ed the game, we were all thoroughly glad of it. 
His Grace the Duke of Beaufort, with his two daughters, sat upon the 
press bench, fo one side of the home plate, until the game was nearly 
finished, and watched each point of play, asking Mr. Spalding to explain 
"what they did not understand. On the completion of the game, 
which ended in a victory for Chicago, Ryan and Crane, with the 
regular Chicago team in the field, sent the ball over the plate, while 
INIessrs. W. G. and E. M. Grace, together with other prominent cricket- 
ers, tried to hit it. When the pitchers put any speed in the ball, not 
even the famous Grace brothers could gauge it. When Ryan and 
Crane let up, however, the cricketers found the ball perhaps a dozen 
times within fifteen minutes, the only safe hit being Dr. Grace's. This 
exhibition pleased the crowd even more than the game had done, and 
the boys were given a farewell round of applause as they left the 
field. 

B.\CK TO LONDON. 

Our farewell game in London took place Saturday afternoon, March 
i6th, on the grounds of the Essex Count)- Club, at Leighton. There 
was another big, critical and enthusiastic crowd present, numbering 
something over eight thousand people. The score, twelve to si.x, in 
favor of Chicago, would have disappointed an American crowd, but was 
declared by the English newspaper men present to be the best game 
we had yet played in London. They liked it, as did the entire crowd, 
because there had been plenty of hard hitting and base-running. 
Crane did not put much speed in his deliver)- that da)-, as he was saving 
his arm for the long;-throwinsf contest which had been announced to 
take place between himself and Bonner, the Australian cricketer, at the 
end of this game ; and so he w-as freely hit by Anson's batsmen. At 
the conclusion of the game thousands poured upon the field and formed 
in a great line, that extended from one end of the oval to the other, in 
expectation of seeing the throwing contest. Bonner, however, did not 
appear, he having deliberately backed out at the last moment, and 
Crane accordingly gave an exhibition of throwing, sending the ball, a 
cricket ball, without exerting himself to any great extent, iio yards, 
and following it with a baseball throw of 120 yards 25 inches. Had 



ANOTHER BANQUET. 249 

Bonner been on hand, the probabilities are th-M the record would have 
been broken, as Crane declared himself in splendid condition and in the 
humor for throwing. On arrival at the hotel that evening the boys 
changed their uniforms for dress suits and repaired to the splendid 
buildings of the Niagara Panorama Company, where the stockholders 
of the institution had prepared a banquet for our party. The good old 
Duke of Beaufort dropped in upon us, half an hour after we had taken 
our seats, having comedown from Bristol, as he put it, to spend the last 
evening with this " fine lot of fellows from America." When the toasts 
had been disposed of, every man of us joined in three cheers and a 
tiger for the old gentleman, who had been so honestly glad to see us 
and who had taken such sincere pleasure in entertaining us. On the 
following morning we fairly commenced our provincial tour in a style 
that excited comment and curiosity throughout Great Britain. 

TOURING IN ENGLAND. 

Through the efforts of Mr. S. Stanford Parry, General European 
Agent of the C. B. & Q. R. R., and Mr. C. W. Alcock, the London and 
Northwestern Railway Company had fitted our party out with a special 
train, the like of which had not before been seen in England. We had 
nine cars, two of which were dining saloons, with a connecting vestibule, 
two smoking and reception cars, and the remainder sleeping cars, each 
sleeper accommodating six to eight persons comfortably. The exterior 
decoration of the train was handsome, the body color being white 
enamel, with gold and seal brown trimmings, and the Royal Arms in 
gold and scarlet on the carriage doors. The interiors were even more 
elaborately equipped than our American vestibule trains, and contained 
every comfort one could ask. Each carriage was lettered in brown upon 
both sides, with the inscription, "The American Baseball Clubs," and 
the train presented a truly royal appearance as it stood beside the 
platform in the Euston station. It was to take us to Birmingham, 
Sheffield, Bradford, Glasgow, Manchester, Liverpool and Fleetwood, at 
which latter point we finally took the Irish Channel steamer for Belfast. 
There were fully five hundred people present in the station to witness 
our departure that morning, and with three cheers for Mr. C. W. 
Alcock and three more for the officers of the London and North- 



2;0 



CO UR TEOUS A TTENTIONS. 



western Railway, we started on our journey through England. We 
were accompanied by Mr. P. G. Lane, the special correspondent of the 
London Sportsman, who was particularly courteous and attentive to our 
party during its stay in London and our tour through England, and by 
Mr. Fred W. Thompson, the Special Agent of the London and North- 
western Company, who did everything in his power to make the trip in 
the special a pleasant one. 

BIRMINGHAM. 

It was but a short run of three hours to Birmingham, where we were 
met at the depot by a delegation from the Warwickshire County Cricket 




SPECIAL TRAIN FOR THE BASEBALL TOURISTS. 



Club, who hurried us to the Colonnade Hotel and expressed their good 
wishes for us in bottle after bottle of " Yellow Label." Then we par- 
took of luncheon at the Queen's Hotel, and soon after mounted two bisf 
drags and were whirled away through the streets of the cit}' to the club 
grounds, prettily located and well equipped. Three thousand people 
were present despite the threatening weather, and we gave them a game 
worth talking about. Chicago opened with the capture of four runs in 
the first inning and All- America tied the score in the fourth. Neither side 
afterward sent a man across the plate, game being called at the end of the 



tenth inning on account of darkness. 



Englishmen had not seemed to 



SHEFFIELD. AND BRADFORD. 251 

like light-score games up to this point, but they entered into the spirit of 
this contest, and were heartily disappointed because the boys were 
unable to play out the game. That evening the boys attended the 
Prince of Wales Theatre in a body, after which we returned to our 
sleeping apartments in our comfortable special train. 

SHEFFIELD. 

We departed from Birmingham the following morning at nine o'clock, 
and within a few hours were steaming along through the beautiful hills 
of Yorkshire, at the base of which arise the towers and smoke-stacks of 
Sheffield, the greatest cutlery manufacturing district of England. At 
the station we were met by several members of the Yorkshire County 
Cricket Club, and were conducted to the Royal Victoria for luncheon, 
then, as in Birmingham, we mounted two big coaches, and with tally-hos 
sounding, drove to the Bramall Lane grounds, one of the oldest and 
most famous athletic parks in England. Full four thousand people 
were present when the game began in the rain. Despite the rain, how- 
ever, the boys played on, and the crowd, some with umbrellas and some 
without, stood in the rain and watched every play until the fourth inning, 
when the grounds were so muddy and the rain was falling so fast that 
the boys were compelled to leave the field. The players waited an hour 
for the rain to cease, but finally gave it up and filed through the gates. 
That evening we attended the Royal Theatre in a body, in response to 
an invitation extended by Miss Kate Vaughn. 

BRADFORD. 

The snow was falling heavily when we pulled out of Sheffield, next 
morning, and started for Bradford. At Bradford we found the weather 
pleasanter, although the storm of the day before had left the cricket 
field in a deplorable condition. The grounds of the Bradford Cricket, 
Football and Athletic Club we found divided into two sections, one 
being used for cricket and the other for football. The cricket field had 
a fine turf surface, but the football field was covered with chopped straw 
and soft loam soil, a combination which no doubt made an excellent 
playing surface in fair weather, but which, upon the day of our arrival, 
was little better then so much black paste. To add to the discomfort 



252 AT GLASGOW. 

of players and spectators, it began to rain while the boys were In their 
dressing room, and a chill wind swept the mist in white sheets across 
the field. Still, the people fought and scrambled for tickets at the gate. 
In America not ten people would have started for the grounds on such 
a day. In Bradford there were four thousand people upon the grounds 
at half-past three o'clock ; even the members' stand being crowded 
with ladies in water-proofs and macintoshes. It seemed folly to attempt 
to play ball under such circumstances, but the Cricket Club secretary 
stated that three innings, if it was possible to play them, would satisfy 
the spectators, and as the players were willing, it was decided to make 
the attempt. So the boys went out and played as pretty a trio of 
innings on that black, sticky surface as one would wish to see anywhere. 
It was short, to be sure, but it was a fine exhibition, and every spectator 
got his sixpence worth beyond doubt. While sliding a base in the first 
innings, Fogarty tore the sole off one of his shoes. He had no dupli- 
cate shoe, and there was no one to take his place in left field for All- 
America, so, repairing to the dressing room, " Foge '' wrapped the dis-" 
abled member in a bath towel and played the game out. At the end 
of the third inninsfs we could not oret into our drao-s and back to our 
cars too quickly, and in our comfortable saloon smokers we spent a 
pleasant evening, while the wind blew and the rain fell outside. 

GLASGOW. 

When we awoke for breakfast we found ourselves in the London and 
Northwestern depot at Glasgow, our train having crossed the border 
into Scotland durine the nigrht, and had our train borne the Shah of 
Persia himself, it could scarcely have been an object of greater curiosity. 
Visitors flocked about our carriages by the hundreds. Even young 
women drove up to the station in their carts, took a leisurely promenade 
along the platform from end to end of our train, and then drove away. 
Until 1.30 P.M. — the hour at which we drove to the grounds — the train 
was surrounded, certainly not less than five thousand people having 
stopped to look into the windows of our cars during the morning. At 
noon we had luncheon in the London and Northwestern Company's 
hotel at the station. After luncheon, the boys in uniform, but wearing 
their heavy coats, for the air was cold and sharp, mounted a big double- 






THE OLD TRAFFORD GROUNDS. 253 

decked, four-horse carry-all, and with nearly a thousand people as- 
sembled to see them off, started for the grounds. The West of Scot- 
land Cricket Club's grounds are as well appointed as any outside of 
London, and happening to be in good condition, with fair weather for 
baseball, the boys put up an excellent game. All-America, by timely 
hitting, and by taking advantage of wild throws by Baldwin and Pettitt,, 
won their victory in pretty style, the forty-five hundred spectators, 
liberally according the heartiest applause at the pretty fielding work of 
Fogarty, Hanlon, Ryan and Pfeffer. Returning to the train, the boys, 
exchanged their uniforms for their dress suits, and adjourned to the 
Grand Theatre, where, between the acts of " King Lear," they left their 
boxes to break a bottle of Monopole with Mr. and Mrs. Osmond 
Tearle behind the curtain. 

MANCHESTER. 

We reached Manchester for breakfast the morning of the twenty- 
second, having left Glasgow at midnight. All of our party were more 
favorably impressed with Manchester than with any Provincial town we 
had yet visited. In accordance with our usual custom we spent the 
forenoon in driving and walking about the city and inspecting the jj 

principal thoroughfares, then we returned to our train, which, as at other 
stations, we found surrounded by a curious crowd. After luncheon we 
climbed to the top of a couple of four-horse coaches and set out for the 
Old Trafford grounds. When I got the first glimpse of its beautiful 
stretch of green sward surrounded by pretty pavilions, club houses, and 
terraced rows of seats, the Old Trafford grounds of Manchester seemed 
the most beautiful in the world. The air was a bit bracing, but the 
boys put up one of the prettiest contests of our tour, before as distin- 
guished and fine looking an assemblage of spectators as we had played 
before since our opening game in London, when the Prince of Wales 
was present. Had the details been prearranged, the boys could not 
have fought a prettier battle. In the fifth inning All- America tied the 
score, which stood five to five up to the time Hanlon's men came to bat 
in the eighth inning. Manning scored in this inning in dashing style, 
but Chicago aeain tied the score in the first half of the last, when Pettitt 
crossed the plate, the score standing six to six, when Hanlon came to 
bat for All-America's last half of the ninth. Ned cracked out a pretty 



2 54 LIVERPOOL. 

single and reached second, risking- his neck in a darinof and successful 
attempt at a steal. The play sent the crowd oft" into one enthusiastic 
howl of applause, base-sliding being an entirely new feature of field 
sport to the majority of the spectators present. They clapped theif 
hands, waved their handkerchiefs, and called out to Fogart\', when he 
came to bat, to " Hit it hard now." " Foge"' picked out the ball he wanted, 
and sent it upon an ideal Uvo-base journey to far left centre. Away 
flew Hanlon to third, and touching the bag lightly with his foot sped 
on toward the home plate, and then to the Club House without ever 
stopping, the balance of the players picking up their coats and breaking 
after Hanlon on a tight run, while the crowd stood upon its feet and 
applauded vociferously. They had seen a brilliant game, and, what is 
more, they had appreciated it. That evening our part\- was banqueted 
in the rooms of the Anglo-French Club, as special guests of Mr. Ray- 
mond Eddy, the European representative of the house of John \\ Far- 
well & Co., of Chicago. A score of ]\Ir. Eddy's friends assisted him, 
jNIajor Hale, United States Consul at Manchester, acting as Chairman. 
Mr. Eddy proved a typical American in personal appearance, in patriot- 
ism for everything and anj'thing American, and in the whole-souled, 
generous manner in which he entertained our part}\ 

LR^RPOOL. 

We departed from Manchester the following morning at seven o'clock, 
reaching Liverpool an hour later. Another crowd stood in the depot to 
see the Yankees at breakfast in their diningr-cars, and to stare at the 
players as they emerged and made their way up town to see the c\xs. 
Probably because it has so long been visited b)" so many Americans, 
Liverpool has an unmistakably American air about it. Just where or 
what the existing difterence is between it and other English cities, I 
cannot say, but there is a difference, and it was noticeable to all of our 
party. As this was our last opportunity' to do any shopping on English 
soil, the boys put in the morning profitably alike to themselves and to 
the Liverpool shopkeepers. We partook of a light lunch at the 
London and Northwestern Company's hotel at about half-past one 
o'clock, and then mounted a huge coach with seats for tAvent}'-eight 
people, and bowled through the streets of the city to the Police Athletic 



''ROUNDERS." 



255 



Club grounds for our game. With the long brass horn of the tally-ho 
sounding upon every block, and its notes interspersed with the sharp, 
crack of the coach-driver's whip, we created almost as much of a 
sensation on our way to the grounds as our special train had done at 
the depot. We found the park already fairly well filled and a big crush 
of people at the gates. Indeed, the crowd at the gates reminded me 
much of an American crowd at the gates of a ball park before an 
important championship game. The pressure of the hundreds upon 
the outside of the big carriage gate finally broke it from its hinges, and 
nearly five hundred people swarmed upon the ground before the police 
could stop them. Between six and seven thousand people had finally 
packed themselves about the diamond when the programme began. 

Five innings of baseball were first -played by the Chicago and All- 
America teams, and the only regret of our party, and doubtless of the 
spectators, was that it did not last longer. Baldwin and Crane were 
both on their mettle, and how that ball did cut the air about the plate. 
Neither pitcher wanted to stop at the end of the fifth inning, when the 
score stood 2 and 2, but other games had been announced and the tie 
could not be played off But one hit was made off Baldwin and four off 
Crane. 

After the ball game came the game of " Rounders," which had been 
arranged between the local club and a team picked from the Chicago 
and the All-America. None of us had ever seen the game, from which 
it was claimed baseball sprang, and all were therefore anxious to have 
it begin. A picked team from the Rounders' Association of Liverpool 
finally went into the field against an American eleven composed of 
Baldwin and Earl as battery, with Tener, Anson, Wood, Fogarty, 
Brown, Hanlon, Pfeffer, Manning and Sullivan. The fielders were 
stationed much as in baseball, save that there was a fielder back of the 
catcher, called " long stop," and a fielder back of the third baseman. 
The batting is done with one hand, and the bat is like a toy cricket bat, 
or perhaps more like a butter paddle. The ball is the size of a tennis 
ball, and the bases, instead of being bags, are iron stakes protruding 
about three feet from the ground. A base-runner could not be retired 
upon being touched with the ball, but must be struck with it. Moreover, 
be must run the first time he strikes at the ball, whether he hits it or 



256 A ONE-SIDED GAME. 

not. The pitching is straight armed. In the game they played against 
our boys, the rounder players took an unfair advantage in sending our 
team to bat first, and, not knowing the rules, the Americans were shut 
out with but six runs. The boys soon " caught on," however, and the 
two innings played resulted in a score of sixteen to fourteen in favor 
of the Liverpool players. This was all we saw of the Rounders during 
our tour of the world, and I am quite certain that none of our party 
cared to see any more of it. 

Following the game of Rounders, the Americans played the rounder 
team two innings of baseball, simply to show them the difference. At 
the end of the second inning; die score stood eighteen to nothing- in 
favor of the Americans, and would have been more, had the latter not 
tired of running the bases. Baldwin pitched, and after striking out 
three of the batsmen, let the other three hit the ball and get thrown out 
at first. How the crowd did enjoy this sport. They stood twenty to 
thirty deep in the steadily pouring rain, which had begun to fall just as 
the rounder game commenced, their hats on the back of their heads, 
and they shouting and applauding as though they were witnessing a 
horse race on an ideal day in June. A dozen of the biggest cranks in 
America could not have been induced anywhere near a ball park in 
such weather ; and when it was all over, and the boys climbed upon 
their drags, the big crowd cheered the teams until we were out of sight. 

Our train left for Fleetwood that e-vening at nine o'clock, yet the boys 
managed to accept two invitations after they had swallowed a hasty din- 
ner, some of them going to the Royal Theatre as the guests of Mr. W. 
W. Kelley, and others to the Shakespeare Theatre, as the guests of Miss 
Litta. Then we hurried to the train, and bidding farewell to Liverpool, 
started for Fleetwood on the shore of the Irish Channel. It was but 
a three hours' run, and at eleven o'clock we boarded the beautiful 
little steamer " Princess of Wales," in which Ave were to cross to Ireland. 

With our experience on the English Channel still fresh in our minds, 
none of us looked forward with very much pleasure to crossing the 
Irish Channel. Contrary to our anticipations, though, or rather to our 
fears, the trip to Belfast was one of the pleasantest voyages of our 
entire tour. Even before the breakfast gong sounded, the majority of 
the boys were on deck, eager to catch the first view of the Emerald Isle, 



SUNDAY IN BELFAST. 



257 



and the announcement of breakfast failed to draw many of us down 
stairs. We were steaming through the Belfast Loch with the beautiful 
shore of County Down on one side and that of County Antrim on the 
other. By the time we had finished breakfast, we had entered the river 
Lagan, and soon after dropped alongside the stone dock in front of the 
Custom House. Carriages conveyed us to the Imperial Hotel, on Royal 
Avenue, and, for the first time since leaving Australia, the boys felt a 
sense of rest and relief from the rapid pace at which we had been trav- 




THE JOLLY JAUNTING-CAR OF BELFAST. 



eling. It was Sunday, and the players, in parties of three or four, 
mounted jaunting-cars, and spent the afternoon in driving about the 
beautiful environs of Belfast. Sunday afternoon was quiet enough to 
suit the severest Sabbatarian, but Sunday evening Royal Avenue was 
crowded with pretty girls and their escorts. The bright costumes of the 
Scotch Highland troops, off duty, added to the attractiveness of the 
scene. Rain coming up shortly after nine o'clock, however, the boys 
17 



258 '"ARF PAIVST FOIVE." 

sought the big comfortable smoking-rooms of Mr. Jur)''s hotel, where 
they chatted until bedtime. 

The weather on the following day was erratic. During the morning 
it rained for an hour, and then the sun shone for half an hour, only to 
be hidden by another downpour of rain, until it began to look really 
doubtful as to whether or not we should be able to play our game 
scheduled for Belfast. It cleared up about noon, however, and after 
luncheon the boys made their way through the crowds about the hotel 
doors and mounted the drags for the cricket park. The North of Ire- 
land Cricket Club is certainly well provided with grounds. Out on the 
Ormeau road is a fine stretch of lawn, well fenced in on three sides and 
its fourth washed by the waters of the river Lagan. Beyond the river 
is Ormeau Park, and, altogether, the club could not have selected a 
prettier and more desirable site in Belfast. Despite the condition of the 
turf, which was too soft for base-running, the boys played one of the 
cleanest-cut and prettiest games I scored during the trip, and that, too, 
before an exceedingly attractive and thoroughly appreciative assemblage 
of spectators. Pretty girls in jaunting-cars, and fine-looking, highly-bred 
Irish gentlemen, young and old, together with large numbers of Club 
members and their invited guests, went to make up a crowd of three 
thousand people, who sat the game out through rain and shine, applaud- 
ing liberally when good plays were made, and at all times showing the 
keenest interest. As in Manchester, the game ended beautifully. In the 
ei^rhth inninor it stood eiyht to seven, in favor of Chicago, when, in the 
ninth. Wood and Healy each cracked out a pretty single, both crossing 
the plate on Earl's fine three-base drive to far left field, and thus scor- 
ing another victory for All-America under Hanlon's captaincy. That 
evening the boys were banqueted by the North of Ireland Cricket Club, 
at the Club House, the Mayor of Belfast presiding. 

We left Belfast at an early hour the following morning for Dublin, 
and it was while the boys were enjoying the soundest sleep of the night, 
shortly after five o'clock, that they were awakened from their slumbers 
by a voice in the hallway, which sang out as it passed our doors : " Arf 
pawstfoive; wudge ye be gettin' oop, surrs? its arf pawst foive." Oh, 
the richness of that brogue ! Every man of us will remember it for 
many and many a year to come. Hanlon rolled out of bed laughing 



THROUGH A BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY. 



259 



before his eyes were fairly opened, and within two minutes a dozen 
grinning faces were thrust through bed-room doors into the hall, as the 
boys asked one another, "Did you hear that? did you hear it, I say?" 
Like a warden in a graveyard, Pat continued on down the hall, pausing 
every ten steps to raise his head in the air, and in a voice that seemed 
to come from his boots, call out, " Arf pawstfoive." The mere repeti- 
tion of that phrase by any member of our party was ever afterward 
certain to excite a ripple of laughter. 




AN OLD IVY-COVERED CASTLE. 



Beautifully picturesque indeed is the ride from Belfast to Dublin, 
where we arrived at eleven o'clock, four hours and a half after our 
departure. The carefully-cultivated farms, with their borders of stone 
walls or green hedges and the charming woodlands, with an occasional 
old ivy-grown casde lifting its towers above the tree tops, more than 
realized our anticipations of Irish landscape. At Dublin station we were 
met by U. S. Consul McCaskill and others, and driven to Morrison's 



2 00 VISITING KINSFEOFLE. 

Hotel, famous as the scene of Parnell's arrest. Mr. Spalding had 
kindly given this day over to such of the boys as wished to visit friends 
and relatives in Ireland, and there was no game scheduled. Conse- 
quently, John Tener, Tom Daly, Jim Manning, and others posted off 
to Kildare, Kilkenny, Londonderry, and elsewhere, to visit uncles, 
aunts, and nieces they had not seen for years, and some of whom they 
had never seen. Indeed, the three mentioned left us at Belfast after 
the game there. 

" I went to Callan, in Kilkenny," said Manning, in talking to me after- 
ward about his trip, "Callan being a little town of about fifteen hundred 
people, where I have an uncle and several nieces whom I had never 
seen. I telegraphed my uncle that I was coming, and the 'whole town' 
met me at the station in jaunting-cars and on foot. Brogue ? Well, 
you should have heard it. I wouldn't have missed it for a farm. Every- 
body had to shake hands with me. They looked me over as though I 
might have come out of the clouds somewhere. Then they took me 
in one of the jaunting-cars, and, completely surrounded by these 
little two-wheeled conveyances, I was driven to my uncle's home. 
Almost the first things that caught my eye were a number of pictures 
on the walls representing myself in costume and as my likeness had 
appeared in our American sporting and daily newspapers. They asked 
me all about baseball ; wanted to know if it was played like ' Hurley' — 
an Irish game, something like polo — and could not understand how a 
man could earn a living salar}' by playing baseball. Of course I had a 
delightful time, and everything in Callan, even the scores of prett)'' 
Irish girls, was mine." 

Tom Daly went down to Kildare, and his two old uncles had the 
little town in which they resided dressed up in gala attire to receive 
him. They took him over to their little home, and sat with him upon 
the balconies, while the town folk dropped in in instalments for a look 
at their neighbor's American "neffy." The conversation that took place 
between Tom and his uncles must have been exceedingly funny, as I 
got it from the Chicago catcher upon his return to the party. 

" Phwat is it ye say ye'r afther doing, me boy ?" asked one of the old 
Sfentlemen. 

"I am traveling with the baseball part)'," replied Tom. 



A PAYING GAME. 



261 



" Phwat's baseball ?" 

"Why, it's a game we play in America," replied Tom. 

" An is it boi plain' a game that ye make ye'r livin' ?" 

" Certainly," said Tom. " We have thousands of people to see us in 
America, at from two to three shillings a head admission." 

"An' it pays ye well, does it ?" still further inquired the old gentleman. 

"Yes," said Tom, carelessly fingering the diamond solitaire in his 
scarf and the diamond-studded charm on his watch chain, and then 




PHOENIX PARK, IN THE CITY OF DUBLIN. 



pulling out a $350 chronometer and glancing at the hour. " It is'nta 
bad business." 

" Faith, an' I guess not," said the old gentleman. " Oive half a dozen 
of me own Oi would Hke to send over to yez, if ye consint t' get them 
inter ther same bisniss." 

Tom, like Manning, owned everything within sight during this visit; 
and handsome John Tener, who ran down into Londonderry on a 



?62 



SACKVILLE STREET. 



similar visit, was the lion of the day among the relatives whom he had 
not seen since childhood. Meantime the balance of our party who 
remained in Dublin put in their time to good advantage. Some went 
off on a stroll through Phoenix Park, and others upon jaunting-cars 
•drove through the city and its environs, but the majority of the boys 
were satisfied to promenade Sackville and Grafton streets, where the 
crowd was thickest, and where we saw type after type of Irish beauty, 
such as I am firmly convinced can be seen nowhere outside of Ireland. 




SACKVILLE STREET, DUBLIN. 



That evening we occupied four large proscenium boxes at the Gaie^ty 
Theatre, where an excellent English Company was playing a laughable 
comedy known as the "Arabian Nights." 

The following day was a beautiful one for the ball game, just such a 
day as we desired for the great game we played before taking our fare- 
well of Old Ireland. The morning was consumed by most of the boys 
in purchasing black-thorn sticks, "shillalies," and other mementoes of 



A BEAUTIFUL OLD CITY. 



26: 



the " old sod " for Irish-American friends at home. Shortly before noon 
we called at the Mansion House, and were received by the Lord Mayor 
of Dublin, who expressed his happiness at welcoming such a party of 
Americans, and tendered us the freedom of the city. After luncheon 
at Morrison's, the boys, in uniform, came down the stairs into the 
rotunda, one by one, while half a score of fair guests in the hotel, who 
had been waiting for this particular opportunity, leaned over the balus- 
trade of the staircase and quietly criticised the boys as they stood 




GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN. 



about in knee-breeches. Then into the drags piled the players, and 
off we started at a brisk pace for the Landsdown Road Grounds. 
Dublin is certainly a beautiful old city, our party passing along avenues 
on its way to the grounds that would be accounted attractive in any 
city in the world, while from what I saw of Dublin people during our 
brief sojourn, I imagined Dublin society must indeed be charming. 
Our party were unanimous in awarding the palm for clear complexions, 
beautiful faces, and attractive figures to Ireland. 



!64 



DUMBFOUNDED DUBLINITES. 



The Landsdown Road Grounds, where our game was played, are 
more properly tennis and football grounds than cricket or baseball 
grounds; still they answered our purpose very well indeed, and the 
boys put up a game that must have fired the blood of every American 
present. Crane and Baldwin were again "out for keeps," and how they 
did pitch ; while Hanlon, Carroll, Fogarty and Manning ran bases as I 
had rarely seen them run even in championship games. Cipher after 
cipher went up on the score board, until each team had six opposite its 
name. The Dublinites could not understand why eighteen great big 
fellows like these could not score a run, and when finally Pettitt, by luck 
and hard hitting, got around the circuit, and by great sliding threw him- 
self upon the plate, just as Pfeffer's sacrifice ball to Brown was returned^ 
there was a noticeable bit of sarcasm in the applause — a sort of " Ah-ha, 
he has scored a run at last " tinge — whereas in America they would 
have yeUed for a good five minutes. Then All-America scored, t}'ing 
the game, and Burns and Baldwin also crossed the plate, leading Han- 
Ion's men by two runs. But in the ninth. Earl's three-bagger, Hanlon's 
base on balls, Tom Burns's fumble of Brown's hit, and Carroll's pretty 
double settled the g^ame and killed Chicacfo's chances. 

One of the prettiest scenes imaginable was that upon the avenue out- 
side the grounds after the game. Nobby jaunting-cars, with the pret- 
tiest of Dublin's girls perched upon them, crowded the thoroughfare, 
and cabs, coaches, carriages, carts, and people in hundreds made the 
assemblage a laro-e one. Some of the richest brosfue I ever heard and 
some of the sweetest faces I ever saw it was my pleasure to hear and 
see in that crowd. It was also distinctly representative of the wealth 
and intellect of Dublin. Among the notables present were Lord Lon- 
donderry, Lord Lieutenant-Governor of Ireland and daughter ; Prince 
Albert, of Saxe-Weimar, commander of the forces in Ireland, and party,, 
in an English drag ; the Lord Mayor of Dublin and party ; American 
Consul McCaskill and representatives of other foreign powers. 

When we went to the railway station that evening, we found, thanks 
to the courtesy of the great Southern Railway Company, three elegantly 
appointed coaches at the disposal of our party. Each plate-glass win- 
dow of every coach was decorated with an American flag, on which was 
the inscription, " Reserved for the American Baseball Part}\" Our train 



BLARNEY CASTLE. 



265 



pulled out of the station at eight o'clock, and we arrived in Cork at two 
o'clock the following morning. We drove immediately to the Victoria 
Hotel, and after a refreshing sleep of five hours, the majority of the 
boys tumbled out of bed for a cup of coffee and a picturesque ride 
in Irish jaunting-cars to the village of Blarney, five miles distant. 
On the outskirts of the village stands the famous Blarney Castle, 
majestic, ancient and ivy-grown, and as no good Irish-American visits 
Ireland without touching the Blarney stone with his lips, Healey, Daly, 




THE FAMOUS OLD BLARNEY CASTLE. 



Fogarty, Manning, Carroll, Tener, and others of the boys who can trace 
their lineage back to the green sod, ascended the long winding stairs, 
and leaning over the parapet, with the assistance of others, went through 
the performance that is supposed to make an Ingersoll or a Depew of 
the veriest dunce. 

At this castle the party encountered a typical old Irish bogman. The 
old fellow's costume alone would have been worth a trip to Dublin for 



266 



AN ENTERTAINING IRISHMAN. 



iiny of our American dime museum managers. He wore a veritable 
coat of many colors, and the seat of his ancient trousers sagged down- 
ward a distance of a foot. A battered and time-stained hat, with a 
, pointed peak, sat upon the back of his head, and his "lilac" whiskers 
peeked out from beneath the folds of an old gray woolen scarf about his 
neck, while a tattered silk vest, that had once been of a delicate canary 
hue, the gift, no doubt, of some benefactor, completed his make-up. He 
spotted our party immediately as visiting Americans, and we, in turn, 




'A FINE OULD IRISH GINTLEMAN.' 



gathered around him, as deeply interested as we had been in anything 
we had met with in Ireland. Fogarty asked him how long he had been 
a dynamiter, and this seemed to tickle the old man to death, for he 
laughed and slapped his knee and batted his peaked hat from the top 
of his head, as he gave a twirl to the white-thorn shillaly he swung 
between his fingers. 

" How did ye know that ?" he said. 



AN IRISH DANCE. 267 

" Ah, I saw it in your eye," said Fogarty ; " I never mistook a dynam- 
iter in my life, and I am always glad to meet 'em," and with that Foge 
and the Irishman shook hands. 

" It's a fine morning," said John Healy. 

"Shoore, an' it's a beautiful mornin' for singin'," said the old man. 

"Can you sing?" inquired Healy. 

" Naw, but I kin dawnce," quickly replied the bogman, and, as if to 
put weight in his assertion, he commenced a breakdown in the middle 
of that dusty road, timing himself with a low, crooning rhythm that 
"would make famous any actor who could reproduce it upon the Ameri- 
can stao-e. The finish of the dance was the signal for a handful of 
silver and applause from the boys, and then Healy told him that if he 
■would sing them a song he could have as much more. The Irishman 
looked sad for an instant, and then a sparkle came in his eye as he said, 
" I can never sing unless I be half-slugged."* Then he paused, while 
his eyes wandered away across the hill to a little red brick house on the 
roadway. Pointing to this, he said, " Doo yez see thot tavern yonder? 
Well, Oi'm goin' there now, an' Oi'U be ready to sing in tin minutes," 
and taking off his battered hat to the boys, he ambled away to the 
tavern as fast as his legs could carry him. 

After a long look at the beautiful view from the tower of the castle, 
the boys returned to the hotel, and drove to the station where the train 
left for Oueenstown, leaving behind us the quaint old city of Cork, and 

The bells of Shandon, 
That sound so grand on 
The river Lee. 

We skirted the lower end of the city and then struck the bank of the 
river, alongside of which we ran to Queenstown, eleven miles distant — 
and a beautiful ride it was ! No artist, it seems to me, could ever 
reproduce the picturesque beauty of this river and its shores, with their 
lovely lawns, their fine old mansions and crumbling, ivy-grown castles. 
It is the prettiest scenery, by far, that we saw in Ireland. Half an hour's 
ride took us to Queenstown. The railway station is right at the dock, 
and it was but a few steps from the train to the little tender which was 

* Under the " exhilarating influence." 



268 "DO YEZ KNOW ME BOY?'' 

to take us to the White Star steamer in the offino-. While the steamer 
was loading witli the mail, the boys improved the opportunity to purchase 
more black- thorn canes and shillalies and sprays of shamrock, which werl 
offered by old Irish men and women on the dock. Just as I had com- 
pleted the purchase of a fine white-thorn shillaly, I felt a tug at my 
sleeve, and turning partly around, beheld a little old Irish woman, with 
the most sorrowful expression imaginable. She had a little basket filled 
with sprays of shamrock, the roots attached, and still protected with 
clumps of Irish soil. 

"Are yez goin' back to Ameriky ? " said she. 

"Yes," I replied ; "can I do anything for you there? " 

" Do yez know me boy ?" said she. 

" What is your boy's name ? " I asked. 

"Larry Donovan," said she, "as foine a bit of a boy as ever left old 
Ireland, and Oi hav'n't 'erd from him foor a year pawst." 

" Where is Larry? " I asked. 

" Shure Oi don't know," said she, " but if ye wud coome acrosst him, 
will ye' take him this bit of shamrock from his old mither, and tell him 
that ye got it from her at the dock at Oueenstown ? " 

" Certainly," I replied, fancying, for the instant, how glad I should be 
able to make Larry feel, in case I should run across him, at receiving the 
bright little memento of his country's soil which his old mother handed 
me. " Certainly, and if I hear from Larry, I will see that he writes to 
you." 

" May the Saints bless ye," said the old lady, "may the Saints bless 
ye," and then, as I turned away, she tugged gently at my sleeve. " An* 
shure Oi knows yez air goin' to leave somethin' for the old leddy, before 
ye go." How could I refuse ? Of course I presented her with the last 
English coins I had, and soon we were aboard the steamer. A moment 
later our bow was cutting the waters of Oueenstown harbor, and as we 
drew near the White Star steamer " Adriatic," the si^ht of the American 
flag at the ship's masthead drew forth three cheers and a "tigah" from 
the boys, and these were followed by three more, as the passengers, 
including Mr. Spalding's wife and mother, who had embarked at Liver- 
pool, rushed to the rail to welcome us. Two faces we missed. Ed 
Williamson was still confined to his room in London from the injuries 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 



269 



he received in Paris. He was attended by his faithful little wife, who 
bravely nursed him back to strength, although alone and three thousand 
miles from home. Telegrams were received at the steamer from many 
friends, bidding us " Farewell " and "God speed." On entering the 
saloon an hour later, we were pleasantly reminded of our London friends 
by a magnificent floral piece representing a home plate, and bearing 
upon its face, in immortelles, the inscripdon : " May you reach home in 
safety." Attached to this was a b»/oad crimson scarf of silk, which bore 
the letters, " With compliments of Grace Hawthorne, London, March 
27th, 1889, To the All-America and Chicago Baseball teams." 

Soon after boarding the " Adriadc " we got under way and started 
upon the last of our voyages. We encountered exceedingly unfavor- 
able weather, and for two days our ship made scarcely seven knots an 
hour. The " Adriatic " weathered the storm beautifully. She would 
bury her pretty nose in many an angry wave that hid the entire forward 
section of the ship, as it broke into big clouds of spray before her, only 
to come up again, ready, and seemingly anxious, for the next one. 

After leaving Queenstown the boys were feverishly impatient to reach 
home, and fairly counted the hours. It was rough voyaging, but we 
bravely made the best of it. Every evening we assembled in the big 
smoking-room on the hurricane deck for the enjoyment of our after- 
dinner smoke, and for a turn at poker, yarn-spinning, or Fred Carroll's 
roulette wheel, which he had purchased in Nice. When Clarence Duval 
happened in, half a dozen of the boys would start "a-patting," and 
forthwith Mr. Duval's feet would begin to move, until finally he was 
dancing a " hoedown " with all his energy and ability. Captain Cameron 
and Purser Russell did everything in their power for the comfort of our 
party, and with fair weather our voyage would have been in every way 
delightful. 

Our friends in New York had been expecting us for three days, and 
the " Adriadc " was sighted off Fire Island at a very early hour Saturday 
morning, April 6th. By sunrise we were at Quarantine. Meantime 
the enthusiasts on shore, who had prepared to welcome us to Manhattan 
Island, had been apprised of our arrival, and just as the sun peeped 
over the Brooklyn housetops and the sunrise gun on Governor's Island 
boomed out its accustomed good-morning, the steamer "Starin," with 



2 JO BACK TO OLD FIFTH AVENUE. 

about one hundred and fifty people aboard, cut loose from her moorings 
at the barge office and steamed down the Bay. The tugboat " George 
Wood" bore half a hundred more. The party on the smaller boat had 
picked up a German band on the way down Broadway, and this, together 
with the steam whistles and the voices of two hundred cheering people, 
made noise enough to startle every one of our party out of bed and 
bring them on deck in a hurry. Among those who clung to the ropes 
aboard the visiting steamers we recognized the faces of Walter Spalding, 
George Floyd, F. L. Lane, Al Johnson, ^^^ ^\^ Kelly, Marcus Mayer, 
John W. Russel, Digby Bell, DeWolf Hopper, Joseph Donohue, John 
Kelly, Nicholas Engle, Henry Anson, J. W. Curtis, James Hart, John 
Ward, Colonel W. T. Coleman, and many others, including a number of 
ladies, the wives and daughters of their escorts. Cheering began when 
the vessels were half a mile apart, and was kept up for fully half an 
hour. As the " Starin " made fast to the ocean steamer, the cheering 
was loudest, even the emigrants on the "Adriatic," a thousand in 
number, joining in the welcoming howl. Whistles blew, the Dutch musi- 
cians on the small tug's almost straightened out their horns in efforts to 
drown the whistles, and hats, canes, handkerchiefs and umbrellas were 
Avaved and thrown wildly in the air. Many of the boys were too over- 
come by the demonstration and their joy in landing to speak, and I 
discovered tears coursing down the cheeks of not a few of them. Henry 
Anson, the father of Captain Anson, clasped the big ball player in his 
arms as the latter climbed upon the deck of the "Starin," and fairly 
cried for joy. Our entire party boarded the "Starin" and proceeded 
to the Twenty-first Street dock, from which we were quickly driven to 
the Fifth Avenue Hotel, where accommodations had been reserved, and 
it was when we stood in our rooms at the famous old hostelry and looked 
out over Madison Square that we felt once more at home, and were able 
to look back upon our great tour of the world as an accomplished fact. 
The demonstration which began in honor of our arrival in New York 
harbor was but the beginning of the series of ovations tendered us until 
we disbanded at Chicacjo, two weeks later. Our first evening in America 
was spent at Palmer's Theatre, where, as the guests of Colonel McCaull, 
we saw " The May Queen," with DeWolf Hopper, Digby Bell, and other 
prominent lights of the operatic stage in the cast. The boxes had been 



THE FIRST GAME AT HOME. 



27r 



elaborately decorated with flags, and from the proscenium arch hung 
an emblem of all nations, a gilt eagle and shield, with crossed bats, a 
pair of catcher's gloves and a catcher's mask. Bell and Hopper were 
irresistibly funny during the evening, and kept the big audience in 
almost- continual laughter by their happy references to the return of 
the party and their jokes at our expense. There were frequent calls 
during the evening for Ward and Anson, but both remained modestly 
in the background, content to let the comedians upon the stage do all 
the talking. 




THE ALL-AMERICA TEAM AFTER THE GAME AT BROOKLYN. 



The first game after the return of the tourists took place Monday- 
afternoon, April 8th, upon the Brooklyn grounds. Not more than 
3000 people were present, as the weather was cold and unfavorable 
for ball-playing, but these received the players warmly. All-America 
won the game by one run. Immediately after the game the boys 
returned to the Fifth Avenue, and exchanged their uniforms for evening 
dress, Monday night having been set for the banquet tendered our 
party by admirers of the game in Gotham. 



272 



A SUFFER AT DELMOXICO'S. 



The supper took place at Delmonico's, and was indeed a notable 
gathering of representative American manhood and intelligence, in 
honor of the returning tourists and of the game of which they were the 
exponents. The decorations, menu cards and souvenirs were beautifully 
designed and typical of the game. The table of honor had been set 
crosswise of the room, and from it extended six others, plates having 
been laid for over 300 people. The walls of the hall had been festooned 
with American flags, and between them hung large and handsomely 
framed photographs of the party, taken in Egypt, Rome, Naples, and 
other foreign cities. The tables were profusely decorated with flowers 
and large confections, each of the latter being surmounted by the 
figure of a ball player in action. In the balcony had been stationed a 
full orchestra, which played almost constantly during the evening. 
Presiding at the table of honor, sat A. G. Mills, ex-President of the 
National League and one of the authors of the National Agreement, 
under the protection of which baseball has attained its present high 
standard of organization. Upon the right and left of Mr. Mills were 
seated Mr. Spalding, Hon. Chauncey M. Depew, Hon. Daniel Dougherty, 
Henry E. Howland, W. H. McElroy, U. S. Consul G. W. Griffin, who 
represented our country at Sydney at the time of our arrival there. 
Mayor Chapin, of Brooklyn, Mayor Cleveland, of Jersey City, Erastus 
Wiman, Mark Twain, Leigh S. Lynch, and the Rev. Joseph Twitchell, 
of Hartford. At the remaining tables sat representatives of a dozen 
Yale College classes ; popular members of the New York Stock Ex- 
change ; the presidents and prominent members of the New York 
Athletic Club, the Manhattan Athletic Club, and other of the crack 
gentlemen's athletic organizations of New York City and vicinity. 
Shortly before Mr. Mills arose to call the assemblage to order, the 
ladies who had accompanied us around the world entered the balcony 
overlooking the room, and were greeted with a prolonged ovation. 
Then Mr. Mills, arising, reminded his hearers of the occasion that had 
brought them together, and during his eulogy of the game, of Mr. 
Spalding, and of the teams, which followed, was frequently compelled 
to pause until the applause had ceased. 

Mayor Cleveland, of Jersey City, who followed, had his hearers laugh- 
ing before he had been upon his feet many seconds. He concluded his 



MR. DEPEW'S SPEECH. 273 

very happy speech by saying : " Six months ago, these young men 
went abroad to fight, not like gladiators covered with armor, but cov- 
ered with their American manhood, and they have come back covered 
with laurels, to place them on the fair brow of the American girl. Gen- 
tlemen, I now welcome home, in the name of the 20,000 residents of 
the little city across the river, this double team, as I call them, of 
American athletes." 

Mayor Alfred Chapin, of Brooklyn, among many bright and witty 
things, said : " When we over in Brooklyn receive invitations to ban- 
quets, and especially to Delmonico's, we respond with alacrity, and we 
also make some sort of a speech, in return for a kindly dinner. In 
looking over the toast list I find that we are seven who will give the 
welcome, to be followed by a picked nine of intellectual athletes, who 
might safely make an after-dinner tour around the world and would not 
find a single foreign team who could catch them in an error." 

Mr. Depew was enthusiastically cheered when he arose to his feet 
and smiled quietly upon the assemblage before him. He said : — 

" Representing, as I do, probably more than any other human being, the whole of the American 
people who were deprived, by a convention that did not understand its duty, of putting me where 
I belong ; and representing, as I do, by birth and opportunity, all the nationalities on the globe, 
I feel that I have been properly selected to give you the welcome of the world. I am just now 
arranging and preparing a Centennial oration which I hope may, and fear may not, meet all 
the possibilities of the 30th of April in presenting the majesty of that which created the Govern- 
ment which we boast of and the land and country of which we are proud, but I feel that that 
-oration is of no importance and sinks into insignificance compared with the event of this even- 
ing. Washington never saw a baseball game ; Madison wrote the Constitution of the United 
States, and died without seeing one ; Jefferson was the author of the Declaration of Independence, 
and yet his monument has no tribute of this kind upon it. Hamilton, the most marvelous and 
creative genius, made constitutions, built up systems and created institutions, and yet never 
witnessed a baseball game. I feel, as I stand here, that all the men who have ever lived and 
achieved success in this world have died in vain. I am competent to pay that tribute, because 
I never played the game in my life, and never saw it but once, and then did not understand it. A 
philosopher, whom I always read with interest, because his abstractions sometimes approach the 
truth, wrote an article of some acumen many years ago, in which he said that you could mark 
the march of civilization and rise of liberty and its decadence by the interest which nations 
took in pugilism. The nations of the earth which submit to the most grinding of despotisms 
have no pugilists. The nations of Europe which have never risen in their boasted establish- 
ments to a full comprehension of Republicanism, have no pugilists. While Ireland and the Irish 
people, who can never be crushed, who have poetry, song and eloquence that belong to genius, 
have the most remarkable pugilists. England, which has a literature which is the only classic of 
to-day, which has an aristocracy and a form of government which is nearly democratic, has 
18 



274 



MR. SPALDING OUTLINES THE TOUR. 



remarkable pugilists, and when you reach the seat of culture in America — Boston — you find 
the prince of pugilists. Now, that philospher was right on the general principle, but wrong in 
the game. Civilization is marked, and has been in all ages, by an interest in the manly arts." 

In conclusion, Mr. Depew eulogized the returning teams and ended 
with a brilliant panegyric in favor of the national game. 

In response to the toast, " The Influence of Manly Sports," the Hon- 
orable Daniel Dougherty' delivered an address that won him a burst of 
applause at the finish. He said, in conclusion : — 

" There are no happier moments in the life of man, and especially an American, than when,, 
after a foreign sojourn, he is conscious that he is once more a part of his country and an inmate 
of his home. Such men a country that holds liberty dear must have, and such men the 
athletic spirit of the generation is breeding for the future defence of the country against foreign 
foes. In sports on sea and land we more than hold our own, for an American yacht still keeps 
the cup, and our boys, who are back with us to-night, have taught new pastimes to the athletes 
of far-distant lands. I glory in the triumphs of the scholar, yet gladly admit the body has 
its honors as well as the brain. Open-air sports are conducive to health and hardihood. They 
give vigor to the arm, fleetness to the limbs, alertness to the eye and nerve to the heart. They 
ignite the fires of emulation, create thirst for distinction, the longing desire to win a name that 
will mark them among their fellows. These qualities combined rear a race fit for peace and 
war. In peace to grapple with the tough adversaries of every-day life, and in war to endure 
the privations of the camp, the fatigue of the long march in advance or retreat — to do daring 
deeds, leap into the imminent deadly breach, and, if needs be, fall like the immortal band of 
Lacedaemonians, who played their gymnastic games on the very spot where the next day they^ 
died for their country." 

President Spalding was heartily cheered when he arose to give an 
outline of the tour. He attributed the success of the enterprise to the 
excellent conduct and ball-playing ability of the players who composed 
the Chicago and All-America teams. Captains Ward and Anson 
responded briefly when called upon, but the oratorical gem of the 
evening was Mark Twain's response to the toast of " The Grand Tour." 
Beginning in a vein of humor that excited the continued and hearty 
laughter of his hearers, he concluded his response with a word-painting 
of the beautiful Hawaiian Islands, so full of poetry and sentiment, and 
so true to nature as our party had seen it, that the assemblage sat 
spellbound under the charm of his words. Chairman Mills, in intro- 
ducing Mr. Clemens, spoke of him as a native of the Hawaiian Islands, 
and the speaker said : — 

"Though not a native, as intimated by the chairman, 1 have visited the Sandwich Islands — 
that peaceful land, that beautiful land, that far-off home of profound repose, and soft indolence. 



MARK TWAIN'S RESPONSE. 275 

and dreamy solitude, where life is one long, slumberless Sabbath, the climate one long, delicious 
summer day, and the good that die experience no change, for they but fall asleep in one heaven 
and wake up in another. And these boys have played baseball there ! — baseball, which is the 
very symbol, the outward and visible expression of the drive and push and rush and struggle 
of the raging, tearing, booming nineteenth century ! One cannot realize it ; the place and the 
fact are so incongruous ; it's like interrupting a funeral with a circus. Why, there's no legiti- 
mate point of contact, no possible kinship between baseball and the Sandwich Islands ; base- 
ball is all fact, the Islands all sentiment. In baseball you've got to do everything just right, or 
you don't get there; in the Islands you've got to do everything just wrong, or you can't stay 
there. You do it wrong to get it right, for if you do it right you get it wrong ; there isn't any 
way to get it right but to do it wrong, and the wronger you do it the righter it is. 

" The natives illustrate this every day. They never mount a horse from the larboard side, 
they always mount him from the starboard ; on the other hand, they never milk a cow on the 
starboard side, they always milk her on the larboard ; it's why you see so many short people 
there — they've got their heads kicked off. When they meet on the road they don't turn to the 
right, they turn out to the left. And so, from always doing everything wrong end first it makes 
them left-handed — left-handed and cross-eyed; they are all so. In those Islands, the cats 
haven't any tails, and the snakes haven't any teeth ; and, what is still more irregular, the man 
that loses a game gets the pot. As to dress, the women all wear a single garment, but the 
men don't. No, the men don't wear anything at all, they hate display ; when they wear a 
smile they think they are overdressed. Speaking of birds, the only bird there that has orna- 
mental feathers has only two, just barely enough to squeeze through with, and they are under 
its wings instead of on top of its head, where, of course, they ought to be to do any good. 

" The native language is soft and liquid and flexible, and in every way efficient and satis- 
factory — till you get mad ; then, there you are ; there isn't anything in it to swear with. Good- 
judges all say it is the best Sunday language there is ; but then all the other six days in the. 
week it just hangs idle on your hands ; it isn't any good for business, and you can't work a. 
telephone with it. Many a time the attention of the missionaries has been called to this defect,, 
and they are always promising they are going to fix it ; but no, they go fooling along and fool 
ing along, and nothing is done. .Speaking of education, everybody there is educated, from the. 
highest to the lowest ; in fact, it is the only country in the world where education is actually- 
universal. And yet every now and then you run across instances of ignorance that are simply- 
revolting — simply degrading to the human race. Think of it — there, the ten takes the ace 1 
But let us not dwell on such things, they make a person ashamed. Well, the missionaries are 
always going to fix that, but they put it off, and put if off, and put it off, and so that nation is 
going to keep on going down, and down, and do-«'n, till some day you will see a pair of jacks 
beat a straight flush. 

" Well, it is refreshment to the jaded, water to the thirsty, to look upon men who have sa 
lately breathed the soft air of those Isles of the Blest, and had before their eyes the inextinguish- 
able vision of their beauty. No alien land in all the world has any deep, strong charm for me 
but that one ; no other land could so longingly and so beseechingly haunt me, sleeping and 
waking, through half a hfetime, as that one has done. Other things leave me, but it abides; 
other things change, but it remains the same. For me its balmy airs are always blowing, its 
summer seas flashing in the sun, the pulsing of its surf-beat is in my ear ; I can see its garlanded 
crags, its leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore, its remote summits floating 
like islands above the cloud rack ; I can feel the spirit of its woodland solitudes, I can hear the 
splash of its brooks ; in my nostrils still lives the breath of flowers that perished twenty years 
ago. , And these world wanderers who sit before us here have lately looked upon these thingb ! 
and with eyes of flesh, not the unsatisfying vision of the spirit. I envy them that ! " 



276 



"SPALDING'S RIDE." 



Following the responses to the toasts there was a call for De Wolf 
Hopper and Digby Bell, both of whom had come directly from the 
stage to the banquet hall. Both of the popular comedians responded 
as they only could do, Hopper portraying in verse the troubles of the 
New York Club in their efforts to hold on to the " Polo" grounds at 
iiith street, and then, in response to an encore, giving "Casey at the 
Bat," in his own inimitable style. Digby Bell followed with a descrip- 
tion in verse of the arrival of our party in New York harbor, and was 
compelled to pause between verses for the applause to cease. The lines, 
written in the rhythm of " Sheridan's Ride," and entitled " Spalding's 
Ride," ran as follows : — 



Up from down town the other day, 

Bringing my chambermaid fresh dismay, 

Elongated Hopper a message bore, 

In a voice that was crossed between grumble 

and roar, 
Telling the season was on once more. 
With Spalding twenty miles away. 

Oh, the excitement that message brought ! 

Oh, the wild fervor that came unsought ! 

I cast on my slumbering wife a glance, 

And with silence burglarious slipped on my 

pants ; 
While Hopper impatiently 'gan to prance, 
Xest he should be left by the waiting boat. 
His broad breast heaved with a wheezing note, 
But soon we stood out in the dawning day. 
And Spalding was twenty miles away. 

Now, there is a road from way uptown, 

A good broad highway leading down 

To the dock where the waiting tugboat lay, 

To bear all the ball cranks down the bay. 

And there I beheld a noisy Dutch band. 

With boisterous Floyd in proud command, 

A temporary baton in hand. 

And he gave his stentorian voice such play 

That the Dutch wind-jammers were led astray — 

But Spalding was twenty miles away. 

On the boat we marched with steady tread, 
The enthusiastic Floyd ahead. 



' Cast off I" the impatient captain cried, 
And the boat swung out in the river's tide 
With a jerk that unsteady Hopper floored, 
And Manager Mayer with excitement roared. 
And the Dutch well nigh fell overboard. 
But what care we for mishaps to-day, 
With Spalding twenty miles away ? 

We passed down the stream with a mighty 

rush, 
That would put Jay Gould's steam yacht to 

blush ; 
And with every wave's majestic swell. 
Our gallant gang, with a lusty yell. 
Awoke the rest of the sleeping town. 
Steam whistles salute as we pass them down. 
And Nature's visage wears never a frown. 
And what is the cause of this joy to-day ? 
Why, Spalding is fifteen miles away. 

The Laura M. Starin we overtake, 

And soon she is left in our foaming wake. 

Our glasses we point through the dawn so 

dull ; 
On the deck of the tug there's an ominous 

lull, 
As we search for the ocean steamer's hull. 
She is there, large as life, down at Quarantine! 
And each of us makes up in smile serene. 
We cheered as we looked where she calmly 

lay, 
For Spalding was only ten miles away. 



THE SECOND GAME. ' 277 

The miles decreased as the moments flew, Hurrah, hurrah for our Spalding bold; 

And soon the ship's deck sprang into view. Hurrah, hurrah for his well-won gold ; 

Familiar faces are waiting there. And when New York has its baseball ground. 

And cheer upon cheer stirs the morning air. May his statue of bronze on the field be found. 

And the Dutch band brays with its tuneless blare. And upon it inscribed: "From the base- 

We can make out big Anson, and Tener, and ball cranks. 

Crane, Who in manner befitting express their thanks. 
And we yell ourselves hoarse till our vocals we To Spalding, who, freighted with ardor sub- 
strain, lime. 
For our two teams of heroes are back again. Played our national game in every clime 
There's a blizzard of joy on this breaking day, From'Frisco,globe-circling,toNewYorkBay, 
For Spalding is only ten feet away. In lands ten thousand miles away." 

It was nearly two o'clock when, with a farewell cheer for the friends 
who had accorded them so generous and hearty a welcome, the boys 
sought their hotel to rest for the game on the morrow. 

Our second game also was played in Brooklyn, in the presence of 
3500 people. The game was a rather uninteresting exhibition, Chicago 
taking the lead at the start and holding it throughout the nine innings. 
Crane was given poor support by All-America, their errors, without 
exception, proving costly. We departed the same evening for 
Baltimore, and played a game upon the Association grounds there the 
following day. Something over 5000 people were present, the assem 
blage including many of the most prominent society people of Balti- 
more, and the teams were given a great ovation when they came upon 
the field. The game was a most interesting contest. All-America was 
prevented from tying the score in the final innings only by Bob Pettitt's 
brilliant running catch of a fly to right field. The crowd was enthu- 
siastic, and, by its liberal applause, incited the boys to some great base- 
running feats. 

At 1 1 o'clock the following morning we arrived in Philadelphia, where 
we found a committee composed of the officers of the Philadelphia Club, 
and representatives of the Philadelphia papers. We were at once 
escorted to carriages, and were driven down Chestnut street to the 
South street ferry, where we took the boat for Gloucester. The ride 
down the river was delightful, and at Thompson's we enjoyed a planked- 
shad dinner, after which we listened for half an hour to the bright rep- 
artee of Messrs. Lynch, Spalding, Chadwick and John I. Rogers, and 
then re-boarded our steamer for the return ride. 



278 AT PHILADELPHIA. 

We reached Philadelphia shordy after 3 o'clock, and were driven 
direcdy to the grounds of the Athletic Club, where the Athletics and 
Bostons were playing an exhibition game. The grounds were filled 
with people, there being 10,000 present. When our party arrived, 
during the third innings, play was temporarily suspended, and as the 
returned tourists filed upon the grounds, led by Messrs. Spalding, 
Reach and Pennypacker, to the strains of " Home Again " by the band, 
the enthusiasm of the crowd seemed to know no bounds. Ten thousand 
people stood upon their feet, waving hats and handkerchiefs and yell- 
ing at the top of their voices. The Boston and Athletic players had 
arranged themselves in line, from the home plate to third base, and, 
with heads uncovered, gave our players three times three cheers as we 
passed them. The procession moved across the diamond, and, circling 
about third base, left the field for the grand stand, where seats had been 
reserved. At the conclusion of the game the party were driven to the 
Continental, and, after donning evening dress, were escorted to the 
Hotel Bellevue, where, at 8 o'clock, they took seats at the banquet 
tendered by the Philadelphia Sporting Life. 

In addition to the wealth of flowers, flags, and trailing vines in the 
hall, the dazzling display of cut-glass and silverware upon the table, 
and the vari-colored glow of a hundred fairy lights, the iron pillar in the 
centre of the room was surrounded from floor to ceiling with polished 
bats, catcher's masks, blazers, caps, base bags, and other paraphernalia 
of the American game all artistically arranged amidst festoons of vines 
and banks of flowers. The orchestra was hidden behind a pyramid of 
tropical plants in one corner of the room, and, as the party entered, 
began the appropriate and familiar air of " The Day I Played Baseball." 

Editor Frank C. Richter occupied the chairman's seat, and at his right 
and left sat Mr. Spalding, Colonel A. K. McClure, of the Philadelphia 
Times; Colonel M. R. Muckle, of the Ledger ; John I. Rogers, A. J. 
Reach, and Harry Wright, of the Philadelphia Club ; Captain A. C. 
Anson and John Montgomery Ward ; C. H. Byrne, of the Brooklyn 
Club ; President W. M. Smith, of the City Council ; and Thomas Dando, 
President of the Sporting Life Company. There were over three 
hundred guests in all, and it was fully ten o'clock before we had dis- 
cussed the last dishes upon the elaborate menu card. At that hour the 



MR. SPALDING SPEAKS. 279 

boys lighted their cigars, and until after midnight were entertained by 
the wit, eloquence, and baseball logic of the speakers present. 

After brief welcoming addresses by Chairman Richter, Mr. Dando 
and President Smith, Mr. Spalding was called upon, and, after the cheers 
which his name aroused had subsided, first took occasion to thank our 
hosts of the evening, and then entered into an outline of our experi- 
ences abroad. In concluding his address Mr. Spalding said : — 

" We found at Honolulu that they had four established clubs ; that baseball was well under 
way and fully appreciated. If it had not been for an accident, in reaching them on Sunday, 
■we would have had the largest crowd in Honolulu of any at our games since we left home. At 
New Zealand, I have every reason to believe they will take up baseball, and that it will become 
one of their established games. It will become one of the games in Australia. While being 
the most hospitable people in the world, they are also the greatest sport-loving people, and their 
climate is peculiarly adapted to baseball. They can play the year round. Cricket does not 
seem to reach the masses. It is a game more for the aristocracy, who have the time, means and 
inclination to enjoy it. Baseball is for the masses. The requirements for the game are simple, and 
the grounds necessary are not so elaborate and do not require the same expense of keeping up. 

" As to Ceylon, it is of very great doubt whether it will ever become popular, for the climate is 
very much against them. In Arabia there is no more chance for a game than for a blacklisted 
player to get to Heaven. In Egypt it is doubtful and in Italy extremely doubtful. We found 
in Italy and in every country outside of the English-speaking people the uttermost indifference 
to athletic sports. I think the time is not far distant when baseball will be played in France. T 
bave been asked, ' What do you think of baseball being established in England ? ' I reply that 
that is a difficult question to answer. An Englishman is a very conservative individual and does 
not readily take to a new idea, but judging from the immense crowds we had there, and the great 
attention we received from the press — the comments, in the main, being favorable — I believe in 
the near future England will have its ball clubs and leagues." 

When Captains Ward and Hanlon arose to respond to the toast 
of "The Chicago and the All- America Teams" they were ap- 
plauded vociferously. In introducing Anson, Chairman Richter referred 
to him as " Mr. Spalding's faithful lieutenant, whose fame has grown 
with our national game, and who is universally recognized as one of the 
greatest batsmen and ablest captains baseball has ever known." 

The " Old Man's " reply was characteristically blunt and outspoken. 
He said : — 

" I am proud at being thus honored by my friends in Philadelphia, for I played ball here 
once, although that was a good many years ago. I began to play here in 1872, and played four 
seasons, after which, as you all know, I went out to Chicago with Mr. Spalding. As to the 
tour we have just completed, I don't know that I can say anything Mr. Spalding has not 
already said. But I wish to pay a compliment to the ball players on the trip. Each and every 
member has certainly behaved himself as a gentleman. I saw some statements made to the 



2So 



AA^ INTERESTING SPEECH. 



eftect that in all probability they would not come back in good condition. Well, I think if you 
look down along the line you will see that there is no ground for fear." 

In introducing Captain Ward, Chairman Richter said : — 

"Of course our next toast is to the other half of Spalding's combination, the All-America 
team, which picked team, without the advantages of long association and preliminary training, 
won a record that made it the wonder of the baseball world. It seems to me the most fitting 
to respond is he who so ably welded this team together and so skillfully handled it, Mr. John 
Montgomery Ward, famous in baseball, famous in literature, and to be famous in law.'-' 

In response Captain Ward said : — 

" There is no period in my professional life that I will look back to with more genuine 
pleasure than upon the six months past. I am glad to have been a member of this pioneer 
combination and proud to have been a member of the All-America team. In my entire experi- 
ence as a player I have never been associated with a more companionable lot of boys, and I am 
sure when the memory of our struggles on the field have faded from us we will recall with 
affection the many happy hours we have spent together." 

"On behalf of the All- America team I wish to thank Mr. Richter, the chairman, the man to 
whose enterprise and intellect as editor of Sporting Life the success of that journal is due. I 
also wish to thank Mr. Harry Palmer, whose genial and able pen has added so much to the 
tone of the trip. I should not allow the occasion to go by without saying something of the 
liberality which Messrs. Lynch and Spalding have shown the players on this trip. It has been 
a delightful tour." 

Colonel John I. Rogers, as a member of the Board of Arbitration 
and an official of the Philadelphia Club, then held the attention of 
his hearers in one of the most interesting speeches of the evening. 
Referring to the unquestioned honesty and integrity of the game, he 
said : — 

" There is no professional sport, there is no game of hazard, there is no athletic exercise 
which men follow for a livelihood in which there is such an absolute assurance of a game on 
its merits as in our national pastime. I had a distinguished jurist, Judge Thayer, ask me some 
time ago, ' How do you know the game is played on its merits ? ' I said, ' Because it is the 
one unpardonable crime I know of in this wide world — dishonest ball-playing. Arson, murder, 
highway robbery — aye, treason, may be pardoned, and are pardoned, but for dishonest or crooked 
ball-playing it has been proven there is no pardon under Heaven.' I said, 'Your Honor, I 
am a member of the supreme court of baseball, and we have had before us petitions signed by 
mayors of cities, governors of commonwealths. United States Senators and distinguished citi- 
zens, saying that Mr. So-and-so, ten or twelve years ago, in the old order of things, was found 
guilty of crooked ball-playing; that he has expiated his crime; that he has a family dependent 
upon him for support, and he has no other means of earning a living ; we ask you for mercy, 
ask you to restore this man. With all due respect, after due consideration, we respectfully 
returned the application as denied. And why ? Because the integrity of this game, the honesty 
of its play, is the foundation stone — nay, the keystone of our arch.' 

" We have improved our legislation and reformed abuses. We have not yet reached per- 
fection, but perfection is our goal. We have brought in all the minor leagues, until in all the 



A STIRRING ADDRESS. 281 

States of the Union are clubs formed and banded into leagues and organizations, all of them 
taking the law and bending their heads to the mandates of the greater organizations for the 
benefit of this national pastime. 

" No man can afford to despise a game that is popular with the people. I have heard that 
governments, both national and municipal, had aided clubs by the provision of ground and 
the freedom from taxation, in order to encourage among the people a love for athletic sports, 
because a sturdy and more manly race will follow. So will it be in America when the great 
national game shall have established itself so firmly that no American will follow the example 
of that official in Rome who refused to recognize the representatives of this great institution — 
who had not time to have baseball talked in his office. 

" While the National League only claims to be the pioneer in this work, I believe you will 
see we shall, with the cooperation of not only every baseball man, but every newspaper man 
and every citizen, show you that baseball is not the least of American institutions." 

Following Colonel Rogers, Mr. C. H. Byrne's stirring address was 
frequently interrupted by outbursts of applause. He said : — 

" I should like to pay to Mr. Spalding the tribute he deserves. The man who conceived 
and organized and carried out this marvelous enterprise is worthy of all consideration. Aside 
from him, this venture would have been unsuccessful if he had not been supported, maintained 
and encouraged in every step by these magnificent specimens of American manhood. They 
have carried themselves like gentlemen, like American citizens, animated by a purpose and a 
spirit which has been a surprise to everybody. They have been accompanied by the repre- 
sentatives of the most prominent papers in America, who have watched their career ; and I 
have yet to see one line or word approaching a censure of any of these gentlemen. It is a 
surprise and a pride to me. I never knew what a legitimate, upright, manly business I was in 
till Mr. Spalding landed these gentlemen in the city of New York last Saturday night. 

" You don't know what you have been doing. You have laid the foundation of something 
you cannot appreciate as yet. When the sere and yellow leaf comes along, it will be your pride 
and pleasure ; when the national game is carried out to the extent Mr. Spalding has predicted, 
when we have the international game, you will say : ' I was one of the band who went around 
the world and showed the world what the national game was capable of.' " 

No more glowing were any of the tributes paid the national game 
that evening, than was the address of Colonel McClure, of the 
Philadelphia Times, in response to the toast "The Press." The Colonel 
said : — 

"I do not know of any other institution in the country that the American press is so much 
indebted to, without being compelled to give any return, as baseball. A baseball player is the 
only man who aspires to any distinction that the newspapers cannot serve. He has to serve 
himself. In all the other efforts of life where men are constantly struggling for distinction, we 
are often compelled to make very bad bricks without straw. Any one who knows anything 
about a newspaper office knows how politicians assail us in every possible way, and appeal 
and beg, and cajole and threaten, to induce us to make them famous, and we are often very 
sorry for the things we do. We very often make men, and after they are made we find them 
disgracing themselves and us. The baseball player cannot be served by the press at all. It is 
the only line of American distinction in which public notoriety, such as the newspaper gives to 



282 BASE BALL AND ITS GROWTH. 

many, many man, cannot possibly aid him in his advancement. The baseball man must 
advance by merit alone. If all the newspapers in the world should undertake to put a man 
above the standard, or what seems to be the nearest approach to a legal standard, it could not 
affect the judgment of any one except upon merit. 

"That is a very high compliment, indeed, to be paid, which perhaps most of you know, 
but which I must confess not to have known until it was presented to-night by Mr. Rogers. 
It is a marvel, indeed, that a great institution in which young men enter with all the energy 
and ambition that characterize men in every direction of life, that every man enters it to-day 
with the most perfect knowledge that only by integrity and honest merit can he be promoted. 
What a frightful clearing-out that would make among the politicians, wouldn't it? I would 
like very much to get a little of this baseball theory into our politics ; I would like to get it 
introduced into social life — into the churches. I do not know a place or thing, system or class 
or method that would not be improved by your code of ethics. I am sure that no organization 
in this country, religious, social or political, could make the assertion that has been made here 
to-night with reference to the integrity of baseball. 

"And then I am delighted with another thing. If it were not for baseball I don't know 
what the newspapers would do during the summer season. We have presidential elections 
only once in four years and between times the elections do not catch on. The people do not 
care about elections and politics. The most of them denounce politics. Here we have a per- 
petual source of public interest. If we can have a first-class display of a first-class baseball 
game we are sure to have a very interested community willing to read the newspapers. I 
regard the movement you have made as one of great significance, and one for which you are 
entitled to the thanks of every American citizen and newspaper. I bid you Godspeed, for an 
institution that teaches a boy that nothing but honesty and manliness can succeed, must be 
doing missionary work every day of its existence. It will not only make a high standard of 
baseball men, but make the whole world better for its presence. I came here to give you 
hearty welcome. Having known and heard of you, I say not only welcome, but thrice wel- 
come to the hospitality of Philadelphia." 

In response to the toast, " The Rise and Progress of Baseball," 
Henry Chadwick, the veteran writer upon baseball topics, gave an 
interesting sketch of the game and its growth in popular favor since 
1850. He was followed by President Reach, of the Philadelphia club, 
Harr)' Wright, Tim Murnane and Leigh Lynch, after which Fogarty 
gave a recital of his experiences abroad that kept his hearers in 
continuous laughter for ten minutes or more. Before adjourning, 
the following resolution, drafted by Mr. Chadwick, was unanimously 
adopted : — 

" Resolved : That the sincere and hearty thanks of all lovers of baseball in America be, 
and they are hereby, extended to Mr. Charles Dougherty, the present Secretary of the Ameri- 
can Legation at Rome, for his kindness and attention to the American representatives of the 
national game on their recent tour around the globe ; that his thoughtful and unselfish friend- 
ship, rendered the more conspicuous by the ill-mannered conduct of his superior officer. 
United States Minister Stallo, shall be treasured as one of the most enjoyable and delightful 
memories of our tour around the globe." 



OFF TO BOSTON. 



283 



It was long past midnight when, with three cheers for Editor Richter 
and Sporting Life, the boys shook hands with their generous hosts and 
departed for their hotels. 

The following afternoon, Mayor Fitler received the teams in his office, 
and after warmly shaking hands with each of the players, said : " I am 
very glad to welcome you to Philadelphia. I have carefully watched 
your career as you have traveled around the world, and you have not 
only done justice to yourselves and your profession, but you have been 
a credit to your country. I assure you, gentlemen, that so long as I 
am Mayor of Philadelphia, I will do all in my power to encourage the 
great game of baseball." President Spalding responded with appro- 
priate words, and after his Honor had accepted an invitation to be 
present at the game that afternoon, the boys entered carriages and were 
driven to the grounds of the Philadelphia Club. The spectators present, 
owing, doubtless, to the threatening weather, numbered only about 
3500 people, but a more select crowd had never before been seen at a 
ball game in Philadelphia. Each player was warmly cheered upon step- 
ping to the plate for the first time, George Wood, Fogarty, Tom Daly 
and Earle, as Philadelphia players, receiving the lion's share. The 
game abounded in pretty plays, was closely contested from start to finish, 
and was, in fact, just such a game as both teams were anxious to put 
lip in return" for the generous treatment they had received at the hands 
of Philadelphians. 

The tourists left Philadelphia that evenirig for Boston, and on arrival 
at the " Hub " it transpired that catcher Earle had been left upon the 
platform in Philadelphia while talking with a group of admirers, and as 
Pettitt and Healy had been granted leave of absence, the party was left 
short-handed. Sam Wise, however, consented to play first base for All- 
America, while Carroll did the catching ; and Hugh Duffy, happening 
to drop around to the hotel, wore Pettitt's uniform and played a good 
short for Chicago. The game, while one-sided, was not uninteresting. 
A brilliant triple play by Duffy, Tener and Anson, and a quick double 
play by Manning and Wise, aroused much enthusiasm. Tom Brown 
was received with a big volley of cheers when he came to bat, and Ed 
Crane was the recipient of a handsome basket of flowers, which he 
received at the plate. 



2S4 IVESTWAJRD BOUND. 

The following evening the party started on its trip westward to 
Chicago, stopping en route at Washington, and then proceeding to 
Pittsburgh, Cleveland and Indianapolis. The boys were warmly 
received at every point, and, save at Washington, put up an excellent 
sample of the ball we played abroad. At Washington, Chicago beat 
All- America '• out of sight ; " played a tie game with them at Pittsburgh ; 
beat them again in a prett}' game at Cleveland ; and were finally beaten 
by All-America in a hard-fought game at Indianapolis. After breakfast 
at the Arlington, in Washington, Mr. Spalding was notified of the 
President's desire to receive the part}' at the White House. The boys 
accordingly entered carriages and were escorted to the Executive Man- 
sion by General Williams and Walter Hewitt, the former a personal 
friend of the President. After shaking hands with Private Secretary 
Halford and Russell Harrison, the party were invited into an adjoining 
room and were introduced to the countrj-'s Chief Executive, Secretary' 
Halford introducing President Spalding, and he, in turn, introducing 
each of the tourists. President Harrison expressed his pleasure at 
meeting the part)'. Mr. Spalding then extended an invitation to the 
President to attend that afternoon's game, but the Chief Executive 
expressed a fear that it would not be possible for him to do so. "I 
used to go to the games once in a while at Indianapolis," said he, " and 
also at Chicago. I enjoy seeing a good game, but I do not see how I 
can spare the time to go to-day. Mr. Halford, however, is a baseball 
enthusiast, and I am sure will ably represent the Administration." The 
President then bid his guests good-morning, and the boj's, reentering 
their carriages, were taken for a drive through Monument Park. 

We left Indianapolis, Friday noon, in a special car provided by the 
officers of the " Monon Route," and reached Chicago the same evening. 
At Hammond, Indiana, twent}'-si.x miles from the city, we were met by 
a part)' of Chicago enthusiasts and newspaper men who had come down 
from Chicago in a special. Hundreds of questions were asked, and as 
many answered, as the members of each party came together with 
heart)' hand-clasps and words of welcome, and, before we were really 
prepared for it, we were rolling into the Union depot at Chicago. 
Fortunately for us, Mr. Spalding had been notified by wire at Indian- 
apolis, to have the boys attired in evening dress upon their arrival. 



AN ENTHUSIASTIC CROWD. 285 

We had accordingly made our toilets before reaching Hammond, and 
so were ready for the programme arranged for us. Not a few of our 
party had predicted that Chicago would out-do all other places in the 
welcoming reception it would extend, but not a man among us antici- 
pated anything like the final demonstration made in our honor. The 
great crowd that filled the railway station could not be controlled by 
the police or the station guards. As our party stepped from the plat- 
forms of the coach, hundreds of cheering baseball enthusiasts swarmed 
over the iron railings and through the gates, until they picked us up, 
whether we would or not, and carried us to the carriages in waiting. 
There were sixty-five of these, and, as quickly as we could enter those 
reserved for our party, we were driven east to Peck Court and Wabash 
Avenue, where the lined formed. Finally, the last carriage had been 
filled and the procession began to move up Wabash Avenue and across 
Harmon Court to Michigan Avenue, amidst a blaze of pyrotechnics. 
The great crowd that filled the depot, that crushed about our carriages, 
that lined the streets along which lay our line of march, and howled and 
cheered at the sight of each familiar face in line, as well as the music, 
the calcium lights, the colored torches, and the rockets and Roman 
candles that burst above our heads, all combined to make the reception 
tendered us the most enthusiastic ever given any body of athletes upon 
American soil. When the last carriage had turned into Michigan 
Avenue, the line stopped until the illuminated procession, embracing 
sixty-odd amateur ball teams and representative amateur athletic organi- 
sations of Chicago, all in uniform, and provided with half a dozen bands 
of music, filed past us and took the lead. Then, amidst redoubled 
cheers and fresh bursts of pyrotechnics, our party moved on past the 
big auditorium building and, via Wabash Avenue, to the Palmer House, 
where we found the crowd as dense as at the railway station. Inside 
the famous hostelry we found nearly three hundred admirers of baseball 
and its players awaiting us, the reception committee embracing Judge 
H. M. Shepard, Judge H. N. Hibbard, Potter Palmer, John R. Walsh, 
Frederick Ullman, L. G. Fischer, D. K. Hill, C. L. Willoughby, C. E. 
Rollins, F. M. Lester, J. B. Kitchen, J. B. Knight, M. A. Fields, Dr. 
Hathaway, L. M. Hamburger, Louis Manasse, and C. F. Ginther. 
The corridors and parlors of the great hotel were filled with guests 



286 THE CHICAGO BAIvQUET. 

all eager to shake hands with the arriving "globe-trotters," and bid them 
welcome home. Half an hour after our arrival we entered the ban- 
quet hall — the main dining-room of the Palmer House. This had been 
magnificently decorated with flowers of every variety, in huge baskets, 
garlands, wreaths and banks, while designs in flowers and confections, 
symbolical of the game and its accoutrements, confronted one at every 
turn. The menu and the wines provided were in keeping with all other 
details of the committee's work — elaborate and ample ; and the menu 
cards, their different pages emblematic of the various stages of our 
tour, were the handsomest, both in design and execution, ever seen at 
a banquet in Chicago. In the body of the hall had been laid twenty- 
four tables of twelve plates each, and at these sat the players, scattered 
among- their friends. Alono- the north side of the room, at an elevation 
of three feet above the tiled floor, stood the speaker's table, at which 
were seated the Hon. DeWitt C. Cregier, Mayor of Chicago ; Hon. 
Carter H. Harrison, ex-Mayor of Chicago; Rev. Dr. Thomas; James 
W. Scott, President Chicago Press Club ; A. G. Spalding, George W. 
Driggs, and others. The assemblage was thoroughly representative of 
the business and commercial interests of Chicago, and of the financial 
interests, too ; for not less than twenty millions of money was repre- 
sented. 

It was, perhaps, ten o'clock when, the last course upon the card 
having been finished, coffee served and cigars lighted. Mayor Cregier 
called the assemblage to order, and in an able address welcomed the 
guests of the evening, not alone as ball-players, but as representatives 
of free America and the great city of Chicago. President Spalding 
responded, referring to the many courtesies and attentions tendered us 
abroad, and complimenting Chicago upon having capped them all with, 
three great receptions — one at the railway station, another upon the 
streets of the city, and the third in the banquet hall. The party had 
enjoyed a grand experience, one that its members could refer to with 
pleasure for many years to come, but all were overjoyed at once more 
returning to their own country. 

The Rev. Dr. Thomas responded to the toast of " Baseball as a 
National Amusement," and then " His Royal Highness, the Prince of 
Wales," brought Captain Anson to his feet, amidst a hearty burst of 



TOASTS. 



287 



applause. While "Old Anse " was pulling down his decollete-cut vest 
and sipping a preparatory mouthful of water, an enthusiastic stock- 
broker proposed "Three cheers for the 'Old Man!'" and they were 
given with a roar and a wild waving of napkins. Then Anson drew 
himself up to his full height, and began. He said he was glad of an 
opportunity to say something pleasant about the Prince of Wales, for 
the heir to England's throne had treated them most royally, and by his 
recognition and presence at the opening game in London had, beyond 
doubt, added greatly to the public interest in our tour through Great 
Britain. Such recognition, Anson believed, had had the effect of raising 
the social standard of the national game to the highest point it had yet 
attained. "Anse" concluded his remarks with an honestly-meant tribute 
of praise to the habits, conduct and ball-playing ability of both the Chi- 
cago and All-America teams. 

Major Henry L. Turner followed in a stirring response to "The 
National Value of Athletics," and then John Ward was enthusiastically 
cheered as he rose to his feet to talk upon " The World as I Found 
It." John expressed himself as thoroughly confident that the world was 
composed of land and water — principally water — as he had never before 
seen so much of that liquid. That it was round was evidenced by the 
fact that our party had started from Chicago, and, after traveling west 
continuously, had finally reached Chicago again. No grander tour had 
ever been conceived in the history of athletics, and baseball owed much, 
indeed, to Mr. Spalding's pluck and enterprise in carrying it to so 
successful an issue. 

Ex-Mayor Carter Harrison was warmly received when he rose to 
respond to the toast, " My Own Experience." He kept his hearers in 
a broad smile by his humorous comparisons of his own tour of the world 
with that made by our party. He had gone around the world himself, 
he said, for the same purpose Mr. Spalding had in view — to advertise 
Chicago. He had filled all the foreigners he had met full of Chicago, 
and did not doubt but that the ball teams before him had done the same. 
He had told Englishmen, Scotchmen and Irishmen about our big fire, 
about our parks and boulevards, about our unrivaled climate, and about 
our crack ball team, and Messrs. Spalding, Anson and Ward had gone 
around the world to verify all he had said in praise of the national game 



288 THE LAST GAME. 

and its great exponents. Mr. Harrison then gave an interesting account 
of his own voyages, and finally concluded with a glowing tribute to 
America and everything American. 

"Public Opinion of the Game," "Australia," "The Humor of the 
Trip" and "The Press," were responded to in an interesting manner 
by Leigh Lynch, James W. Scott, George Driggs and others ; and then, 
after an informal commingling and exchange of greetings, the banqueters 
separated for their respective apartments. 

The last game of the tour took place upon the Chicago grounds on 
the following day, in the presence of eight thousand people. Tired out 
with the events of the demonstration on the night before, and impatient 
to get home to wives, mothers and sisters they had not seen for months, 
the teams did not put up a very spirited exhibition. All- America began 
to size up Baldwin's delivery at the start, and Mark, seeing that Ward's 
men were bent upon hitting, put the ball over the plate and let them 
peg away at it. The result was just twenty-two clean hits for All- 
America, with a yield of as many runs, the score standing 22 to 9 at 
the finish. After the game, the boys shook hands in the club house, 
and by midnight many members of the Spalding party were on their 
way to join their respective clubs. 

Thus ended a tour the like of which had never before been under- 
taken, and which probably will never be duplicated. In conception, it 
was bold; in execution, it is worthy of admiration ; and too much can 
scarcely be said in eulogy of the nerve, the enterprise, the managerial 
ability and the sound business judgment displayed by Albert Spalding 
as its projector, and to whom, more than any other, the national game 
of America owes its present high standard of organization and unques- 
tioned reputation for honesty and integrity. Much praise is also due 
the players for their invariable good nature in the face of a thousand 
and one annoyances attendant upon a journey of thirty-two thousand 
miles through foreign lands and waters, and for their willingness to play 
ball under such conditions as, it is quite safe to say, no other ball teams 
ever played under. Indeed, the great tour, from beginning to end, 
must ever remain a credit to its projector and to each and every man 
who participated in it. 



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